Proposed Itinerary - 4 or 5 days from Rock Harbor

[NittanyRedhawk]

I've spent the past few weeks reading nearly every thread on these boards, and the wealth of information here is incredible. If anyone has a few minutes to offer some advice on a proposed itinerary for me, I'd be extremely grateful.

Background: my wife and I are planning to spend 4 or 5 days on Isle Royale in early August. We're both in our 30's and consider ourselves strong and experienced hikers. We have some previous backpacking experience, but we've always either been with a guide or with more experienced friends when we've backpacked in the past. Since this'll be our first backpacking trip on our own, we're thinking along the lines of 4 days/3 nights (plus an additional night and day at Rock Harbor).

I think our first two nights are tentatively set. We're planning to arrive at Rock Harbor via the Queen IV from Copper Harbor and spend the rest of that first day renting a canoe and paddling/hiking out to Lookout Louise. We'll stay at the Rock Harbor Lodge. On our second day, we'd like to catch the Voyageur II to Chippewa Harbor, then hike to Moskey Basin. After that, we're planning on spending the following three days/two nights working our way back from Moskey Basin to Rock Harbor. We're trying to figure out how to portion those days. We'd like to hit Mount Ojibway and Mount Franklin and the stretch of the Greenstone in between them, and we'd probably like to try to camp somewhere other than Daisy Farm or Three Mile for at least one of those nights (since they show up a lot on the "least favorite" lists, especially during the busy months).

One possibility (leaving from Moskey Basin) would be Lane Cove-->Three Mile-->Rock Harbor (departure day), with the short hike from Three Mile to Rock Harbor on that last day possibly giving us time for a hike to Scoville Point. Another would be Moskey Basin-->Daisy Farm-->Lane Cove-->Rock Harbor (departure day). The first of these would have a pretty long hiking day at the start (MB to LC), but would give us an easy morning on departure day. The second alternative would be broken up a little more evenly, but would require us to get from LC to RH by 2:45 on departure day. Any ideas as to which might be more enjoyable? Or, is there a completely different possibility that I'm missing? Also, as a general proposition, are the campsites at Daisy Farm and Three Mile any less "busy" during the middle of the week as opposed to on a weekend, or does that kind of thing not matter on Isle Royale?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions/comments!!

[Tom]

First, welcome to the forums NittanyRedhawk!

I think you have more experience than you give yourself credit for, and will do just fine on Isle Royale. You've already performed the most important first step, which is researching your plan and learning all you can.

Given your timeline parameters, I'm inclined to promote your second option. Most folks plan a lodge stay for the end; unless you're really wanting the lodge stay experience, you could just as easily stay at Rock Harbor's campground that first day. You'll see Chippewa (and maybe feel bad you're not staying there, but you'll also get to Moskey, which is equally awesome), and get some decent hiking in day one. The jaunt from Moskey to Daisy is shorter, but will work the legs well enough. You should get to Daisy early enough to score a shelter, I'm guessing. I'm sure you've read how 'busy' Threemile and Daisy can be, but recognize that's relative. It's not like you can see more than a camp or so on each side of you, with the vegetation; as a bonus, you might catch a ranger talk (or someone from Moose-Wolf study might boat on over) to give a talk at Daisy. It also breaks up the trip to Lane Cove, which is a good pick, btw. Now, I've hiked from Lane Cove to Moskey in a day, but it's a bit long and why put yourself through that, especially in the possible heat of August. This way you can spend a little more time at the Ojibway tower or hanging out at Franklin. You should be able to easily make Lane Cove to Rock Harbor, even if you sleep in. The hike back to the ridge is a bit rough, but after that it's "all down hill" for the most part. The Tobin Harbor trail (which you should take) is as easy as they get.

In terms of Threemile and Daisy activity, the best guess one can muster is to recognize that the Ranger III arrives on Tuesdays and Fridays, and departs Wednesdays and Saturdays. If you do a little do-si-do with the schedule, you can somewhat predict or guess where some of the mass will be, "one day" from arrival and departure, etc. I've not found weekdays vs weekends to be a very good predictor, especially with an Isle that has one of the highest consecutive night stay stats for NPS.

[MikeT]

Welcome to the forums!
It sounds like a nice trip. I have never stayed in the lodge. I figure I will someday when I am too old to hike or, canoe
One thing to think about is the water taxi that runs from Rock Harbor. It can drop you off at either Chippewa or Malone. If you are staying in Rock Harbor to wait for the Voyageur the next day, that might be an option to gain a day, giving you a night at the lovely Chippewa Harbor instead and an earlier start the next day.

If you want to stay at the lodge, the Voyageur will arrive at Chippewa early enough so the 6 mile walk to Moskey will not be a problem. The only hesitation, as you said, is the long walk to Lane Cove the next day (@11 miles). However, it is very doable. Keep in mind that the stretch from Moskey to Daisy looks easier than it is. There are not any major changes in elevation, but it is always going up or down. Especially the second half that is almost all rock and can be hard on the knees. Also, it is followed by the climb out of Daisy to the Greenstone. However, once you are on the Greenstone, it is smooth sailing.

Ojibway Trail Profile (N to S)

One thing to consider, is going from Chippewa to Daisy with a stop at Moskey for awhile to cut the next day's distance down. Daisy is NOT terrible (though not as nice as Moskey by any means). It is a pretty campground with 16 shelters. Just a lot of things going on at times.

Lane Cove is definitely a worthwhile destination. It will give you the real wilderness feeling of the island. I think you are smart to not try and hike out of there to Rock Harbor to catch the boat. Just too much stress to get there if you ask me. I think Three-Mile is your best option for the last night and I have done it several times. Take the Tobin trail back to Rock Harbor from there as the Rock Harbor trail between Three-Mile and Rock Harbor is tough and can be an ankle twister. Three-Mile is also a lovely campground. There are 8 shelters, 4 tent sites and some nice views. Not as serene as Lane Cove though.

Half the fun is planning. Hope you enjoy your trip!

[NittanyRedhawk]

Tom and Mike, thanks so much for the suggestions and tips! I'll be playing around with this itinerary for a few days and will see what I come up with. Totally agree about planning - it really is half the fun!

I love the idea of starting the trip off by taking the water taxi to Chippewa and camping there instead of staying at the Lodge and waiting for the Voyageur . . . I'm definitely going to look into that. Chippewa sounds like a beautiful campground.

[JerryB]

Nice trip. I would certainly support staying a night at both Chippewa and Moskey. I don't think you will be sorry.