Who wants to play a little route A vs route B?

[alecto73]

I got my Sanity check on Hatchet Lake to Siskiwit Bay (thanks). Nice to see others lurking and ready to talk routes while we weather the off-season. I'd go nuts if I wasn't planning 2012 trips. I have two potential routes for IR in mind so far. Last time I was on IR was the end of August/beginning of September 2010. Off the Ranger III I did Rock Harbor to Lane Cove. I remember I didn't get on the trail until after 4 so I had to race the sun a little bit there. Day two was Lane Cove to McCargoe Cove. I had originally planned on West Chickenbone but there was an algae bloom. I think even without the algae bloom that was the right choice. McCargoe Cove was nice and that was my Moose sighting for the trip. Day three was McCargoe Cove to Moskey Basin. Moskey Basin was easily my favorite site. Day four was a somewhat epic-feeling hike back in to Rock Harbor in the lovely weather that ultimately proved bad enough to delay the Ranger III. I didn't use poles back then and picked up a wooden staff at Daisy Farm. I found myself occasionally raising it and shouting "You shall not pass!" With the weather as it was I couldn't resist. I heard a couple trees come down and the smell of fresh pine was pretty prevalent in many places. Since then I've substantially reduced my pack weight and I'm using trekking poles. I've learned I don't like a lot of down time so I tend to route on the long side. I am nearly always solo and was last time on IR. This time I'm planning to go early in the year as opposed to at the end, so ideally May. I am aware of the mileages but we all know they really don't mean much compared to the "personality" of the trail. Here's the routes I'm contemplating:

Route A
Rock Harbor to Scoville Point (zero day/dayhike)
Rock Harbor to Moskey Basin
Moskey Basin to Todd Harbor
Todd Harbor to Desor North
Desor North to Windigo

Route B
Windigo to Desor North
Desor North to Hatchet Lake
Hatchet Lake to Siskiwit Bay (Island Mine option)
Siskiwit Bay to Feldtmann Lake (Windigo option)
Feldtmann Lake to Windigo (Huginnin Cove option)

I'm leaning towards B since it's all going to be new to me, but I have that RH-to-Windigo bug in me. I was also curious if anyone has camped at the Marina in Grand Portage prior to their morning departure to the island and would appreciate any thoughts on that. I'm way too cheap for a hotel room. Having taken the Ranger III before, any useful information regarding Grand Portage departures would be great. Thanks in advance.

[Tom]

Nice to see others lurking and ready to talk routes while we weather the off-season. I'd go nuts if I wasn't planning 2012 trips.

What ELSE would we do???

Well, it looks like you prefer long mileage days, and are fine with that, so I'll just stick to what I "think" of them-there trails. In going in May, you'll have a fair amount of daylight, so I don't see that being an issue for you.

Route A
Rock Harbor to Scoville Point (zero day/dayhike) Sure... Start light, but wear your pack if it's the first hike of the season The other option is to go to Three Mile, just to knock that off.

Rock Harbor to Moskey Basin
As I'm sure you know, the Rock Harbor trail is a rocky 'light up/down', especially between Daisy Farm and Moskey. You'll earn the day, but it's doable. Moskey is SO worth a night.

Moskey Basin to Todd Harbor
You don't indicate which way you'd go, but I'd probably recommend heading over to McCargoe and then on the Minong toward Todd. For one, it will allow your trip to be a Minong through-hike. For another, I personally think it's prettier, and that section of the Minong is easier, compared to the distance of the Greenstone and backtracking at Hatchet.

Todd Harbor to Desor North
The only issue you'll have is if melt runoff and water is still high. There are several water crossings, a few on this leg, that will slow you down and make you take your time. Otherwise, the hike down to Little Todd is a bit of trail, but I think it's a place worth visiting!

Desor North to Windigo
Get up early and hit the trail. This, in my opinion, is the hardest section that Isle Royale has to offer. Mainly because of it's distance (becomes an endurance event) and that darn repetivive up/down/up/down that you will encounter. The water crossings are fairly stable (two are beaver dams) and the final stretch is nice. Short of a few peak vistas, however, much of this section lacks the views you get on the prior days.

Route B
Windigo to Desor North
Like I indicated earlier, I think it's the hardest section of trail. If you've already been hiking in the spring, then maybe it wouldn't be so bad, but if this is the first trail you hit for the year, it might be a rude awakening.. Your pack will be full, and going W-E is perhaps slightly tougher than E-W.

Desor North to Hatchet Lake
I suppose it depends on the weather (I should have mentioned this before) but the span between Desor North and Little Todd can be slow if wet. Even in dry conditions, plan to pace below your average, maybe even half. There is just a lot of need to watch your feet. From Little Todd to Todd isn't bad, save a water crossing or two. From Todd to the Hatchet Trail intersection it's mainly a walk in the woods, as is the hike over to Hatchet, with no serious up and down action from what memory serves.

Hatchet Lake to Siskiwit Bay (Island Mine option)
The hike out of Hatchet is evil. I'm just sayin'... It's like Little Todd. You're winded and legs burn before you even make the main trail. However, once on the Greenstone, enjoy the highway to the West. Two years ago I hiked that stretch (until Desor South) in gale winds and rain. I know your "You shall not pass!" thoughts all too well.. I had the same visions. However, although cold and wet, the trail was perfectally passable, provided there is no lightning. You're nearing the highest point on the Island. Just past the trail to Desor camp, you'll climb up a ridge and get a view back on the Island, and Lake Desor. Enjoy it; beyond that it's a walk in the canopy until you basically hit Siskiwit Bay. If you go in early May, you might be before leaf-out, and then you can see quite a distance in the mature woods. After leaf-out, and, well, your view is more limited.
I'm personally not a huge fan of Island Mine-unless, perhaps, during leaf color peak in the fall. The water source can be a bit ugly, and there is no amazing view to gaze out at, nor a body of water. There are a few switch backs around camp, but then you just hike down to the bay. There are a few spots where you're walking on a crushed rock of sorts, which is a bit harsh, but then you can cut over and walk the sandy Siskiwit shoreline, provided the loons aren't nesting. It's deceiving, since you still have a bit to go until camp, but it's not tough at all.


Siskiwit Bay to Feldtmann Lake (Windigo option)
I love this section of trail. It's a road (well, and old one, long ago) up from Siskiwit for a while, so nothing too rough. You'll get a great view from the Feldtman tower, and then continue your hike down off the ridge and in to camp. There always seem to be moose around Feldtman.

Feldtmann Lake to Windigo (Huginnin Cove option)
You'll walk through a few swampy lowlands, and eventually climb up a ridge or two, making it to the Grace Overlook. From there it's fairly easy down to Windigo. Given your other days of hiking, this is a nice way to end. I'd take the Feldtman Ridge route over hopping down to Windigo and then Huginnin.


Places to stay:
You say you're too cheap for a hotel, but what about a Motel? Ryden's is just down the road, and is only around $45 a night, if that. It's a bed and some thin walls, but works fine. I've never stayed at the campground, but have spent overnights in a car at both the Cutface Creek rest stop south of Grand Marais, and the new rest stop in Grand Portage at the US/Canadian border. Legally I think you're allowed 6 hours, but nobody is every around to see if you were there for 7... You just can't set up a tent or anything. (As a bonus, you can hike up to Pigeon Falls - The highest waterfall in MN, for a morning leg stretch.)

For the boats:
All the details are at http://www.isleroyaleboats.com. Basically, book your ticket, show up at the time requested, and say good morning to Capt Don, who participates on this forum. You park on a grassy area just up from the boats; there are signs to help you. Gather on the dock and meet your fellow hikers, and you'll help load your gear and be on your way. The ferries are smaller, of course, than the Ranger III, and many times you can strike up great conversations and make new friends on the trip. You'll meet three 'types' of people on the Voyageur II - Fellow hikers, normally most of the boat on the trips I've taken. Great to share stories with. Resort goers, heading to Rock Harbor (and I suppose Windigo, once those cabins open) - Great to tell stories to; and folks associated/working for the Park Service - Great to listen to. (I've had the pleasure of riding on a boat with Rolf a couple times, as well as Candy, some archeologists, geologists, rangers, etc - All with great things to share.)

[alecto73]

Start light, but wear your pack if it's the first hike of the season The other option is to go to Three Mile, just to knock that off.

Definitely won't be my first trip. I'm hoping to have two or three under my belt by May. My pack fully loaded for 5 nights is still only around 20lbs. Since I'm familiar with this stretch and I loved Moskey Basin this seemed like a good way to see a part of the island I haven't yet (Scoville) and then stay at my favorite spot from my first trip. If I went to Daisy I wouldn't be able to stop at Moskey the next day.

You don't indicate which way you'd go, but I'd probably recommend heading over to McCargoe and then on the Minong toward Todd.

I did intend to go by way of McCargoe Cove.

...the hike down to Little Todd is a bit of trail, but I think it's a place worth visiting!

I was thinking lunch at Little Todd. Sounds like I'll be rolling up my pants.

...and going W-E is perhaps slightly tougher than E-W.

What do you think about reversing this loop?

I'm personally not a huge fan of Island Mine-unless, perhaps, during leaf color peak in the fall.

Yeah I "got the memo" on Island Mine. It's an option should 17 miles prove over-ambitious or I am dinged-up or something. Never shortened a leg before but there's a first time for everything and I have quite a bit of respect for Lake Superior weather as well.

I'd take the Feldtman Ridge route over hopping down to Windigo and then Huginnin.

That option was to continue on to Windigo from Feldtmann Lake, giving me an extra day to do Huginnin. I have a habit of chopping days off of the end of my routes. Maybe I'm misunderstanding but it looks like there's only one way to Windigo from Feldtmann?

...what about a Motel? Ryden's is just down the road

Have you seen the yelp review for Ryden's? Hilarious. I think I might do that. I like places with a personality. Still, single tent at the Marina is $15. Did I say I was cheap?

... and say good morning to Capt Don, who participates on this forum.

I've read many of his posts here and I've been all over the website. Pretty much just waiting for them to open it up for 2012 bookings. Actually saw the V2 at RH in 2010.

Thanks for the very thorough reply!

[Ingo]

Two thoughts... If you start at R.H. do do the Scoville Pt hike. A taste of the island you won't see from the trails much. And I just read the Ryden's review, thanks. Oh, so true, but I'd give them 5 stars, just for being what they are.

[jerry]

I've stayed at the Marina campground at Grand Portage three times. The last time they charged me ten dollars. I camped near the shower room which is included in the fee. You're only a few minutes away from the dock for the two boats that go out to ISRO. I enjoy the V2, but plan to use the new boat if I go out again this coming summer. Either plan should be enjoyable and the Minong Ridge is a nice challenge. Look forward to your trip report.

[Tom]

Now, to be fair, I think Rydens of more of a 50s type motel.... And the only thing they've changed is the sheets. I hope.
I did love the review, though. So true. Breakfast, however, is quite good. (And not as shady.)
If I can get one of their rooms, I'll take it. To me, it's part of the whole IR/Northwoods experience! Having a "personality" is probably an understatement for that place.
You probably don't need to sleep, anyway, if you're going to ferry to Rock Harbor. You can put a sleeping pad on the warm engine cover and sleep the ferry trip until at least McCargoe. Not much to see until there...

Alecto73 - I may have misread your optional route, if I understand it now, you'd look to push past Feldtman and go to Huginnin. I wouldn't. Feldtman #2 is my favorite tent pad on the Isle, it's a great lake to relax, and then there is also Rainbow Cove. Huginnin is OK, but I don't think compares to Feldtman. (Especially if you fish.) In the spring, Feldtman is light, bright, and warm(er.) There is a great sand beach on which to prepare a meal. Huginnin is tucked in the shade of the Northern side - Cooler, dark, rocky... It's one of those places to stay if Washington Creek is full, or you're looking for a shorter hike, or jumping over from Desor. I wouldn't skip staying at Feldtman to see it. If you have restless legs, there is more to 'do' around Feldtman - Be it hike back to the ridge overlook, down to Rainbow cove, or just around the woods. Beyond the Huginnin loop, which isn't all that much of a hike, that's about it for you over there.

Oh, and if I were to be hiking option B, I'd probably hike it reverse, and leave Desor to Windigo for the last day..

Last (for everyone else who may be reading, and wants a refresher) the typical 'delays' and wait for the schedules to be posted/reservations to be accepted isn't laziness on the part of the services. As I understand it, the transit concessionaries (VoyII/Sea Hunter; Queen IV; Sea Plane) submit their proposed schedules for the coming year to the NPS, who needs to 'approve' them before each can start taking reservations. Once the NPS says everything looks OK (even though the schedules rarely change, it always seems to take time) then those folks like Don can start taking our reservations. Normally I think that happens around mid-late Feb, if memory serves!

So, to perhaps the original question: Route A or B.
If you're looking to put an Isle through-hike on your list, and the Minong, then A is certainly it.
If you want a wider variety of the island, with perhaps greater moose possibility and howling wolves, then B would fit the bill.
If you were going June-Aug, I'd say the answer is an easy "B" since I tend to prefer quieter camps and trails. In May, expecially if you go before the Ranger III or Queen are running much in the line of regular routes, that side will be quiet for you, anyway...
You COULD just book an outbound ticket to RH, and a pickup five days later (or whatever) from Windigo. The beauty of riding the V-II is that if the weather forecast for the week was looking rough, or you just didn't feel it, you could just jump off the boat and start hiking at Windigo, or maybe ride over to McCargoe and get off there. You've paid/reserved a spot to get you to RH, and you'd only be out $12 or so if you started hiking at Windigo, otherwise the rate is all the same, and Captain Mike is normally pretty easy going about those things... You would have 'options' if you like.

[Tom]

I enjoy the V2, but plan to use the new boat if I go out again this coming summer.

Agreed. Having the chance to ride her last August, the Sea Hunter/Whatever her name might become a speedy, smooth ride. If you're going to and from Windigo, she's a great option, and offers a tour format, to boot. Unfortunately, in this particular case, I don't think she starts steaming until mid June...
She departs an hour later than the VII, but then tours about showing a few North shore elements on the way out, stopping at the America, etc. However, she's so much faster, that the two captains have to coordinate (and the SH-III stalls with more tour stops) if the V-II hasn't cleared off the Windigo pier for the rest of her trip. (And thus overwhelming the Windigo Rangers.) They'll often pass each other in Washington Harbor.
So, honestly, you're not getting to the Island much earlier on the VII, and you're missing the tour! She's a great addition to the fleet.

[alecto73]

Tom - Right now I'm really leaning towards B and probably in reverse. I was only considering Huginnin as another one of those zero-day dayhike options were I to shave a day going in my original direction based on what I know about myself at the end of trips and the 10.2 miles being on the short side for me. I think that's moot now. If I was to do A I would approach it as I did last time I took the Ranger III and drive through the night arriving at the dock in the morning a little bit early, zonk on board for a while. I wouldn't want to do that for B since arriving ~10AM gives me nearly a full day to chew up trails and I'd want a proper nights sleep. Part of the reason A starts at RH was something I think Capt. Don may have even pointed out to me a couple years back which was that if my departure point back to Grand Portage is Windigo it affords quite a bit more flexibility with my schedule. I think B in reverse and overnighting at Feldtmann Lake works out really well in terms of the distance of each leg, and Feldtmann Lake does seem to be a highly regarded site. Almost a "duh" moment when I look at it that way now. Add to that - having done the overnight drive up to Lake Superior more than once now I really am not too fond of the white knuckle deer carnage experience once you get into northern Wisconsin and then Michigan. I've never seen anything like it, although driving out to Giant City from Carbondale was close (back in college). It's like some kind of sick video game. Maybe it's just me but I see more dead deer than cars on the road and plenty of live ones basically waiting for my headlights. I'm terrified to do the speed limit. The drive in the day time is spectacular (when you live in the land of cornfields anyway). Yet another factor pushing me towards B. I pretty much assumed that the reason 2012 info isn't up yet was purely procedural. Capt. Don does not strike me as lazy. I am pretty sure his site actually said they'd be updated in February.

Jerry - Thanks for the feedback on the campground. Yet another reason to do B. I think I might do that and then drive up to Ryden's for something nice and unhealthy to eat when I get back. I'm fascinated by it. Do they do cheeseburgers? Sounds like the kind of place that would.

Thanks again all