West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Questions about trails and campsites on the island.

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noon_thirty
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West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Post by noon_thirty »

This is my first trip to Isle Royale and I'm looking for some input on possible west-to-east itineraries.

I have done a quite a bit of hiking, backpacking and minimal mountaineering in the Cascades, completed the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal earlier this year, a camping trek in the Himalayas last October, short hikes and overnight trips in Southeast Asia and day hikes in West Africa and Egypt. That is to say that my experiences on the trail have not really been in the Midwest, but rather involved either more elevation gains and losses, more heat, more humidity or any combination of the three. I've recently returned to my home state after nearly a decade away and I'm really excited for the opportunity to explore what the back country here has to offer.

I arrive in Windigo on the morning of September 19 and leave from Rock Harbor on the morning of September 24. I have mapped out a couple options for getting from one end to the other and was looking for some input on the possible itineraries. Here is what looks doable for me based on looking at topo maps for the island.

Greenstone Only Options:
19: Windigo > S. Lake Desor
20: S. Lake Desor > Hatchet Lake
21: Hatchet Lake > W. Chickenbone
22: W. Chickenbone > Lane Cove
23: Lane Cove > Rock Harbor

-or-

19: Windigo > S. Lake Desor
20: S. Lake Desor > Hatchet Lake
21: Hatchet Lake > W. Chickenbone
22: W. Chickenbone > Daisy Farm
23: Daisy Farm > Rock Harbor

Minong/Greenstone Options
19: Windigo > N. Lake Desor
20: N. Lake Desor > Little Todd Harbor
21: Little Todd Harbor > McCargoe Cove
22: McCargoe Cove > Daisy Farm
23: Daisy Farm > Rock Harbor

-or-

19: Windigo > N. Lake Desor
20: N. Lake Desor > Todd Harbor
21: Todd Harbor > E. Chickenbone
22: E. Chickenbone > Lane Cove
23: Lane Cove > Rock Harbor


Ideally, I'd like to loop up to Lookout Louise on the last day. I had read that there is a boat that crosses Tobin Harbor which would make that stretch possible to kind of loop back to Rock Harbor? If there isn't a boat then I would just follow the Tobin Harbor or Rock Harbor Trail back.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Itinerary that I didn't think of?
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Re: West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Post by Tom »

Welcome to the forum, noon_thirty!

Personally, I'd probably opt for your first Greenstone option, or your second Minong route. It somewhat depends on the experience you want to have. The island will be quiet (oh, and I'm pretty sure the water taxi service to Lookout Louise will have stopped by then, probably around Labor Day) for either route. You might not see anyone along the Minong.
The Greenstone is the classic through hike, and at that time of September I'd say you have a pretty good chance at seeing some spectacular maple trees in fall color as you approach Island Mine on your way to Desor South.
If you did pick your second Minong option, switch East Chickenbone for West. West is much nicer, and it's really not a difficult trail between the two. The Minong is going to be a more aggressive trail, both in elevation ups and downs, as well as route finding. The Greenstone is a well tread and followed trail.

There are three typical issues that time of Sept: Rutting moose (give them room), shorter days (just plan accordingly), and higher probability than average of ferry delays, as advection season kicks in. (Often they can reroute along the other side of the island, so this ultimately shouldn't impact you.)

Nights can get cold in Sept, and frost wouldn't be out of the question at all.
I think your plan is off to a great start!
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Re: West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Post by Midwest Ed »

Welcome to the forum.

Given your experience, I don’t see any problems with any of your 4 proposals. While the Island only offers a maximum of 800 feet elevation above Lake Superior’s 600 feet, you will still find the terrain challenging. There’s some of the world’s oldest geology that’s been given lot’s of time to get modified both geologically and glacially and the lack of much top soil makes some of the trail footing treacherous with tree roots. There are many old shorelines, a lot of up and down; 5, 10, 50 feet repeatedly and several ridge lines with alternating swamps with beaver dams. Most standard trails have nice board walks through almost all the swampy areas. Almost all of the Island is considered a Boreal Forrest (especially the NE) so it has no similarities to most of the Midwest. Parts are so dense with spruce and balsam that some off trail venture seems impossible. Parts of the SW end does have some mature hardwoods with smooth trails that resemble a walk in the park.

Inexperienced first timers are typically warned off the Minong Ridge but I don’t see that as much of an issue for you. The trail markings are more primitive and less well kept. It also has some areas that are wetter than most but in September things should have dried up a bit, except we’ve had a very wet Spring/Summer so far. The South Minong is the once place I have never been, there a couple of beaver dams you cross and I sure some others will add their thoughts. Todd Habor is my personal favorite campground (I’m in a small minority there) but Little Todd is also great. Little Todd is primitive/unimproved (no dock, no boats, no shelters) but right on the Big Lake. East Chickenbone is low on the popularity list since the campsites are not right on the water and it’s a pretty good hike downhill to get there. I would substitute West Chickenbone or McCargoe Cove. You just might not see another person in September along the Minong.

From this point onward all four routes are similar in choices for getting to Rock Harbor. The water taxi is operated by the Rock Harbor Lodge concessions and they are only open until the end of Labor Day week so this will not be available. The views from Lookout Louise are great but very similar to what you’ll see along the Greenstone Ridge from Mt Ojibway to Mt Franklin. Should you choose to stop at Daisy Farm (one of the busiest campgrounds but not so much in September) instead of Lane Cove, you could also achieve these views by taking this ridge route to Rock Harbor.

No matter your choices, take some extra layers of clothes. It could be wet and cold. Also in the late season, it is not unheard of that the ferries get delayed due to Lake weather. Since the stores will be closed an extra days rations makes sense. You will have a great time, rivaling your past experiences.
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Re: West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Post by noon_thirty »

Thanks for the feedback! Much appreciated. Crossing my fingers for some clear night skies and the appearance of the Northern Lights.
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Re: West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Post by FishDaddyFlex »

Noon_thirty's itinerary was similar to what I am considering this year. Never been to Isle Royale. I am in good shape and have carried 25 pounds in and out of the Grand Canyon in a day relatively easily and could handle quite a bit more weight with a slower pace and Im assuming much easier terrain of Isle Royale. I too am considering the easiest GreenStone Ridge option vs a combination of Minong and Greenstone.

Here is my current itinerary.

Day 1: Fly in early via seaplane into WIndigo and get to South Desor (11.3 mi)
Day 2: S Desor to Todd Harbor (11.3 mi)
Day 3: Todd Harbor to Lake Richie (12.9 mi) This is my biggest concern
Day 4: Little Richie to Rock Harbor Lodge (12.9 mi)

Days 5, 6, 7: We will stay at Rock Harbor Lodge and do day hikes and just be more relaxed. If we are really motivated I might canoe to Bell Isle to camp a night. If necessary I could also slow the pace of my backpacking itinerary and come into the lodge a day late.

I know it is fast paced compared to some other itineraries I have seen. We plan to go in August when it is warmer and hopefully the bugs are slowing down and the days are pretty long. I am bringing my wife of which I will be carrying all of her gear except for water. We will still go faster than if she carries anything believe it or not. Is my pace just completely unreasonable? I have read of guys doing 18 miles in a day on the Minong.

The reason I picked this route is to get a little bit of all the attributes of the island, the Minong, the Greenstone, the inland lakes, and the South. Going north to the Minong obviously adds a lot of distance and the Greenstone would be much easier if I took it the whole way. I am assuming Minong has less people on it, but does it also have better views than Green Ridge? While I love to avoid crowds, I just want to make sure the Minong scenery east of Todd Harbor is worth complicating my itinerary.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Re: West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Post by Midwest Ed »

Welcome to the forums FishDaddyFlex. I've never been inside the Grand Canyon but I've "traversed" may of the trails via the street/trail view function provided by Google. Of course the changes in vertical elevation on Isle RoyaIe do not compare to The Grand Canyon but think you will find much of the step by step trail footing on Isle Royale to be more difficult than the Canyon trails, at least the main trails in the Canyon. There are plenty of places on Isle Royale that are easy strolls through the woods on flat wide trails but many areas, especially along minor ridges, consist of a lot of up and down with each step. There also stretches where you are stepping on of over roots and small rocks which can be made worse when they are wet. I'm not trying to over-alarm you but the lack of a lot of elevation change can cause some first timers into under-estimating the Island. Most people do the Windigo to Rock Harbor in 5 or even 6 days (Is your wife as experienced as you?). I think you will find the most difficult portion of your itineray, IMO, is the 4th day, from Lake Ritchie to Rock Harbor. Lake Ritchie to Moskey Basin is easy. It is the sections past Moskey Basin that make it harder. The last section can be made easier by taking the Tobin Harbor Trail out of Three mile. I would use the 5th day to get to Rock Harbor and reserve just 2 nights at the Lodge. Then if actually do arrive in just 4 days, camp one night at the Rock Harbor campground (you can still get a pizza or lake trout and a beer). I really like the Todd Harbor Campground but IMO the best vistas on the Island are along the Greenstone between Mt. Franklin and Mt. Ojibway. Lake Ritchie is nice, especially if you fish, but Moskey Basin (right next door) is one of the highest rated campgrounds for its beauty. The black flies should all be gone in August but if you find the mosquitoes bothersome then a Lake Superior campground typically offers some relief due to the breezes and slightly cooler air.

Once at the Rock Harbor Lodge canoe rental, you will be met with total resistance (read that as denial) to canoeing directly to Belle Isle or anywhere on the north side. The waters around the north tip (called Blake Point) can be treacherous and even on a very calm day conditions can change in minutes. You can portage over the Greenstone but with just a day or two I'm not sure it's worth it. There is plenty of paddling opportunities in Rock Harbor and Tobin Harbor. A paddle to Hidden Lake and then a one mile hike to Lookout Lousie is a favorite. Also the Stoll trail loop to Scovile Point is a great hike.
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Re: West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Post by FishDaddyFlex »

Thanks a ton for your great advice Midwest Ed. I plan on using it to its fullest. My wife is nearly exactly as experienced as I am as we have basically developed the hiking hobby together. We have done many other more technical hikes together as well, including Half Dome in Yosemite and about a dozen even more technical hikes in Hawaii. I am basically the Pack Mule though. WIll definitely take your advice on the paddling and avoid the trip to Bell Isle and just hang out around Rock Harbor doing Hidden lake/Tobin Harbor. I was initially going to portage over Greenstone but Ill take your advice on my IR first trip. I will probably instead make a day hike to Mt Ojibway and Mt Franklin, Scoville point and Lookout Louise like you said. Might see if I can make it to Moskey Basin instead of Lake Richie too especially if you think my last day is the hardest. I do love to fish but this trip is way more about the scenery and adventure than fishing. I do not doubt this will turn into a 5 day hike, but my wife keeps saying that she will walk faster than she has ever walked before if it means she will get pizza and a shower sooner.

Considering another option, do you have any opinion on the eastern part of Minong from Windigo to N Desor or Little Todd Harbor and then down to Hatchet lake and continue to Rock harbor using Greenstone from there---Versus what I am currently planning using Greenstone from Windigo and making my way up to Minong Eastern portion starting at Todd Harbor. Basically I wondered what you thought of Eastern Minong and Western Greenstone vs Eastern Greenstone and Western Minong (my current plan). Maybe there is no difference.

Again.... thanks again.
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Re: West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Post by Midwest Ed »

It's just one opinion. There are many great posts here worth reading expressing a variety of opinions. I have never been on the Minong Trail west of Little Todd. This stretch is considered to be the roughest on the Island, partly because it is not marked as well and the least maintained so you can get more wet. There even are a couple of beaver dams acting as bridges. It will definitely be easier going along the Greenstone. The section of Minong from Todd Harbor to McCargoe Cove is not bad at all. Depending how things go, if you have the extra day on your way to Rock Harbor you might consider stopping at Daisy Farm and then taking the "long way" to Rock Harbor along the Greenstone by way of Mt. Ojibway and Mt. Franklin, especially if it's a nice sunny day.
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Re: West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Post by Tom »

I'll echo Midwest Ed's caution that many people underestimate what hiking on Isle Royale is like. There are only two types of folks I've seen hike 18 miles a day on the Minong:
1.) Very experienced ultralight backpackers, who researched their trip (often having been to IR before) and made a go for it; and
2.) Bafoons that totally underestimated the trip and got themselves into a pickle either by having a lack of supplies, or missed a trail marker sign, and had no other option...

Carefully try to determine which group you wish to be in... :lol:

You mention you and your wife are hikers, but does that also mean backpackers? There is a pretty substantial difference between 25lbs and the 35-40 or so the average backpacker may carry. I've never been to Hawaii, but have hiked other Western trails, and I'll say the majority of them tend to be much better tread than IR. Don't worry about crowds; that's relative on IR. For instance, I hiked the Western portion of the Isle last July for five days (Feldtman, over to Greenstone, to Malone) and while on trail, only ever came across two other parties, for a total of six people. Sure, met a few more in camp, but then you're still probably talking less than a dozen...

As for your other inquiry:
Eastern Minong and Western Greenstone - Easier; the Western Greenstone (especially from Desor to Windigo) is a hike in the trees, but a well tread path that's generally easy on the feet. It's uphill, though, but a moderate incline. The Eastern Minong (basically Todd Harbor to McCargoe) is the easiest section. Only one unimproved water crossing from what I recall, and the easiest to follow.
Eastern Greenstone and Western Minong - Let's start with the Western Minong - Windigo to Desor North is evil. A whole ton of up and down; beaver dam crossings, and a few places to get turned around (although not that bad, depending on time of year.) Prettier than the Greenstone for that stretch of Isle, for sure, but earned. The next stretch from Desor to Little Todd is beautiful... what you can see, at least, since most of the time you have to keep watching your feet to make sure you don't twist and ankle on a misstep. Whatever your normal trail pace is, half it for this section. If the water is low; great. If the water is high, the crossings get tricky.
Eastern Greenstone (up until Mt. Franklin) - An awesome section of trail. It really opens up. Other than walking "on a slant" in places (it will make more sense when you're hiking it) you really catch some great views and breezes.

If you're coming off a through hike of the PCT or AT then I wouldn't hesitate to tell you to go for it, but in general I'd prefer to see people have amazing, fun times (often the last portion spent planning their next trip back) vs a miserable march...
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Re: West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Post by FishDaddyFlex »

Thanks for the great responses Tom and Ed. Really really appreciate them. We currently have reservations at Rock Harbor Lodge with my current itinerary in mind which includes 4 days of 11-13 miles and 15 if I get crazy. But if I come into the lodge a day late and still have to pay for the room thats fine. I may also just call to cancel the first nights lodge stay sometime before the trip if I decide the plan is just too crazy. I figure though that I will have 6 am till 8 pm to do these trip too. You are correct though, I have not truly backpacked. I have carried some unnecessarily large packs 14-16 miles though as the designated pack mule of my family....They weren't 40-50 pounds but the hikes were a fast pace with 25 pounds....I think I could have done a much heavier pack if I had all day. Sometimes my wife just puts extra water in my pack to slow me down to her pace.
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Re: West-to-East, End-to-End Itinerary Help

Post by 3MTA3 »

My friend & I went from Rock Harbor > Minong > Windigo > Greenstone > Rock Harbor in 2002 and came to these conclusions, which we still discuss today:

-The Minong is rough. It is one of the most challenging trails we've ever done, & we've done the Georgia section of the AT & the Nyack/ Coal Creek section of Glacier National Park. Prepare to go up-and-down and look for trail markings. It's also one of the prettiest sections of trail we've ever been on. The views north on the lake are amazing. You won't see anything like them.

-We ended up calling the Greenstone a "super-highway." We went at a record pace on it. Lots of trees. If you've backpacked for a while, you know what trees look like. Still, it's a nice trail.

-Little Todd Harbor is (probably) our favorite campground of all time. (It didn't hurt that the northern lights were coming off the cliffs of Canada while we were there.)

From reading this thread, I'd suggest the Minong. It looks like you've done some trails that have been challenging so you probably know what you're in for.
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