Itinerary Advice [Windigo to Rock Harbor]

[jjohnsrud]

Hello! My husband and I will be visiting Isle Royale for the first time this upcoming August 19th-27th. After doing a lot of research, we put together an itinerary, but would appreciate feedback. I am especially curious about the stretch of the Minong from Todd Harbor to McCargo. I have read the Minong can be wet and there is just a small board to walk across for long stretches. We are in our mid 30s, have a good amount of hiking experience, some backpacking experience and are in good physical shape. Thank you for your help!

Day 1: Fly into Windigo. Hike Windigo to Feldtmann Lake (8.5)
Day 2: Feldtmann to Siskiwit Bay (10.3)
Day 3: Siskiwit to Lake Desor South (9.8 )
Day 4: Lake Desor South to Todd Harbor (11.7)
Day 5: Todd Harbor to McCargo via the Minong (6.6)
Day 6: McCargo to Moskey (10.1)
Day 7: Moskey to Daisy (3.9)
Day 8: Daisy to Rock Harbor (7.2)
Day 9: Fly out of Rock Harbor

[Midwest Ed]

The segment of the Minong from Todd Harbor to McCargoe Cove is actually the easiest stretch of the Minong. The wet and difficult stories about the Minong play out from Little Todd to Washington Creek. In terms of step by step difficulty your hardest segment IMO is Moskey to Daisy due to the repetitive up and downs. Fortunately it's only 4 miles. If you arrive at Daisy Farm with energy remaining and clear weather in the afternoon I would highly suggest a trip up to Mt Ojibway. The panoramic vistas of that section of The Greenstone should not be missed. A slightly different option depending upon your departure time and your energy levels would be to stay your last night at Three Mile and make your way there via the longer Greenstone route, via Mt Ojibway and Mt. Franklin. But you'd have to give up the possibility of a beer and pizza and whatever other amenities of civilization Rock Harbor offers. You don't have any "zero" days planned but you will have the option to cut 5 miles by substituting Hatchet and Chickbone West for Todd Harbor and MaCargoe Cove and an additional 2 miles by skipping Moskey Basin. I hope you don't end up doing that as you will miss all 3 of my favorite campgrounds.

[fonixmunkee]

Welcome to the forums, jjohnsrud. Thanks for taking time to post.

I've done both those segments, but not as a single trip. This looks like a great trip idea, and one I'm going to have to maybe use for my future trips.

Day 1: Fly into Windigo. Hike Windigo to Feldtmann Lake (8.5)

This starts out as a beautiful hike along the bay, then when you get up on the ridge, you'll see many beautiful vistas of the south part of the island. Once you get off the ridge and back to lake level, the hike is pretty mundane. Be prepared to trip on a lot of roots that zig-zag the trail. Lake Feldtmann is a gorgeous campground, one of my favorite. Try to get the sites right on the lake. Hike all the way through the campground until you come to the trail head before the creek that also splits off into Rainbow Cove. You'll see these wooded sites with a beautiful view, and enjoy the sounds of Feldtmann Lake lapping against the shore all night. Also a moose highway right along here.

Day 2: Feldtmann to Siskiwit Bay (10.3)

This starts out as a tough hike up to the top of the Feldtmann ridge (you saw it yesterday as you hiked to Lake Feldtmann). Once atop the ridge, you'll get some spectacular views. After you come off the ridge, however, the hike is pretty boring until you get into Siskiwit. After getting to the top of the ridge, the hike is easy...at one point, I do believe, you're even hiking a long an old road that went from the old CCC camp at Siskiwit Bay toward the fire tower (if memory serves).

Siskiwit Bay is also one of my favorite campgrounds. I've always been there in the spring, so there's never anyone there. However, in August, it will probably be busier and there will be a few boaters. My favorite past time at Siskiwit Bay is sitting on the picnic table on the dock and watching the sun set behind the Greenstone ridge.

Day 3: Siskiwit to Lake Desor South (9.8 )

Good call on this hike. It's going to be tough-going, but it'll be better than stopping at Island Mine. The second hour of your hike up the hill to the Greenstone will be tough. Along the way, however, you'll be treated to some mine ruins and old cemetery (if you have a good map or a GPS with IR waypoints). It's a nice little break from the slog up to the Greenstone. Once on the Greenstone, it's like a super-highway...wide and flat so you can make good time.

South Lake Desor is an average campground. Nothing too exciting here. Be prepared for lots of bugs. For some reason, the worst bug experiences I've had are on North/South Desor.

Day 4: Lake Desor South to Todd Harbor (11.7)

You've chosen wisely! This hike will have you going *down* the Greenstone into Hatchet Lake. It's a brutal hike *up* the Greenstone from Hatchet Lake. As already mentioned, yes, this hike is along part of the Minong, but not the most difficult section. Most of the hike back along the Greenstone is stuff you've already done, so it will go quick. I enjoy the hike from Hatchet to the Minong trail for some reason. There's a lot of older-growth pines here that I find really pretty.

Todd Harbor is a nice campground. You'll see some gorgeous sunsets here, especially if you hike out to the group sites and sit along the lake (providing there's no one in the group sites). I believe there is also one shelter here, if you get lucky.

Day 5: Todd Harbor to McCargo via the Minong (6.6)

This hike along the Minong gets hairy. Lots of up and downs, and lot of scrambling up and down the rocky ridge. If the rocks are wet, exercise caution and take it slow! be sure to bring lots of water, because there is no water sources until McCargoe.

The hike will be worth it, however, once you get to McCargoe. Again, I've only been here in the spring, so I've never run into the over-population problems others have reported, but August is prime IR season, so you may have lots of boaters and loud neighbors here (especially since it's a drop-off point for the VII). Hopefully you'll have courteous neighbors and be able to enjoy the quiet of McCargoe cove. If it is quiet, you'll see lots of animals, to include otters, moose, and loons. Bring a fishing pole, too...last year a friend caught the biggest northern he ever has hooked into in IR right off the dock.

Fun fact: every time I've stayed at McCargoe Cove, I've seen the northern lights.

Day 6: McCargo to Moskey (10.1)

This is going to be a long hike. The hike to Lake Chickenbone is easy, but immediately after Chickenbone you climb back up on the Greenstone, which is a tough hike. From here, it's a lot of up-and-down along the ridge all the way into Moskey Basin. Be sure your water is full when you leave Chickenbone, as there's little to no water sources until Moskey.

Just like McCargoe cove, though, the hike will be worth it. Moskey Basin is gorgeous! My favorite camp site is the one that's on the point, towards the south end of the camp. I'm not sure how busy Moskey will be in August, however...hopefully someone else can give you a heads-up.

Day 7: Moskey to Daisy (3.9)

This is up-and-down along the side of a ridge, but it's nothing like the previous days' ups-and-downs. Overall, the easiest hike. I'm sure Daisy Farm will be busy in August, so be prepared for that.

Day 8: Daisy to Rock Harbor (7.2)

This starts off as a nice hike along the harbor, but quickly gets annoying as you'll be stumbling along the rocky shore at lake-level. Prepare for Rock Harbor to be BUSY in August. The last (and only) time I was in Rock Harbor was in August, and we had to camp in the group campsites because the main campground was full. You may want to consider staying at Three Mile. Depending on when your flight is the next day, you could stay at Three Mile and avoid the crowds at Rock Harbor. It's a three mile hike from Three Mile to Rock (so, not just a clever name of a campground), and is flat (but still rocky).

My only concern--and it's just because I don't like being around people when on Isle Royale--is how busy the east side of the island will be in August. If you want to avoid this, you could consider skipping Daisy Farm altogether and staying at Three Mile (you're not missing anything at Daisy). Or, you could do a night in at Lake Richie before Moskey Basin, then go through Daisy to Three Mile two days later.

The Lake Richie campground is panned and praised. It's not much to look at, but I enjoy it. There's great views of the lake, a big comfortable rock to sprawl out and relax on while taking in the lake, and lots of wild life (I've heard wolves howl close by, and was almost trampled by a moose here...true story). The fishing can be good, too.

Some people enjoy meeting other on Isle Royale, so perhaps you will, too. Truthfully, many people on IR end up sharing the same appreciation and excitement for the island as I do, so I end up making more friends than being annoyed with their presence.

You've got a great trip planned. You're experiencing the whole island, essentially: the west side (Feldtmann Loop, and my favorite part), the north side (McCargoe/Indian Portage trail) and the East Side (Rock Harbor). You'll go through three of the islands varying climates and terrains, too. Keep us posted on your final itinerary, and when you return from your trip, please share a trip report and some pictures.

[Vandy]

I did quite a bit of your itinerary on my last visit. Trip report is here: viewtopic.php?t=1528

[jjohnsrud]

Thank you for the feedback! I was concerned we were planning on too many miles on some of the days, but we will have options to shorten if we need too. I was also concerned about getting a campsite as we get closer to Rock Harbor.

[Base654]

My friends (mid 30s M&F, ok shape) and I (45 goodish shape) did much of this route last fall. We did widigo-island mine-malone-malone-N Desor-mccargo-moskey-moskey-rock harbour-rock harbour. Fonixmunkee gave a great description so I will just add a few points.

Todd harbour does have one shelter, but I perfer the view from the camp sites. There are a lot of trout just off the dock.

McCargoe is on the top of my favorites list, but it tends to be full of people during the busy season. It is also very popular with roudy, unsupervised boy scouts (read: ruined two trips). This day will be quick for you, those 6 miles are fairly easy, plan the option to continue to east chicken bone if the Mccargoe is not to your liking.

Moskey is my favorite site. Shelter 4 is the best. I always spend at least one extra night there. It's usually close to full, but it is strung out a bit so it's like you're alone. I agree the hike there is a bit up and down, but the food weight is going away. I don't find this too difficult (unless it's raining)

I usually skip Daisy and Three Mile for a extra day at Moskey and do the last 11 miles (moslty flat, but rocky) for the promise of a shower and a beer at Rock Harbour.

Ultimately any trip is a good trip, but a down day or two might be nice. Each time I visit the lady, she demands I/we stop for a day and enjoy the beauty (twisted ankle, blisters, too may miles, laziness). If the day is already built in somewhere it is much easier to move around.

For planning:

Take a side trip to N Desor for water and decide if you want to skip the south side. (Drop your packs at the trail marker for a relaxing no weight walk to the lake)

Is this your only trip to the island? You you have to "see it all" this trip?

I don't pack extra food (controversial). I am at a store on one end of the island or the other the day before I leave. Or, I'll just be hungry and slow if I am an extra day out. (I carry a couple extra pounds around the waist anyway)

My friends were wiped out and blistered, but loved it.

10-11 mile days are spent head down trucking along, not meandering and looking.

If the Ranger is full, Three mile and Rock harbour will be full the night it docks and everyone will be moving to three mile, Moskey, Mccargo and Daisey the next day.

We were stuck (rewarded?) an extra day due to fog the day before and only got the last flight that day...

Two strong suggestions 1. Plan arrive at rock harbour the day the Ranger leaves. You will pass the people who got off the boat the day before and will have a fairly empty campground. 2. Ask for the last(ish) flight back. This will give you most of a day to buy trinkets and have lunch at Scoville point. (Check in at the hotel the night before and the morning morning you leave, they coordinate last minute changes changes with the plane.)

Have fun

Rod

[Donk_67]

Adding a few thoughts here: McCargo - Moskey is a nice hike imo; true, hike up to greenstone from Chickenbone is brutal, but short. Flying: have flexibility planned into your trip; I flew there in August and was lucky... Fog ruled the week and plane wasn't able to land between my arrival and departure. Enjoy you trip.


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[jjohnsrud]

Again, thank you to everyone for sharing advice and information. Base654 asked if this is our only trip to the island. The answer is yes, hence why we are trying to see the highlights.