Possible Itinerary and Dates - Feedback?

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OutdoorMom
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Possible Itinerary and Dates - Feedback?

Post by OutdoorMom »

I'm planning a trip with my hubby to Isle Royale this year. Being the planner type and my husband's work wanting to try to get some vacation dates in the book soon I have spent hours over the past week or two reading and getting some details down. Background on us: Basically, we are outdoor people. I've been dying for another backpacking trip since having my two boys and this summer will be the first that we are okay leaving them for a week (they are currently 1.5 and 3 and will be 2 and nearing 4 when we go). We rock climb, hike, bike, backpack, etc etc. We've backpacked in the Smokies (4D 3N 7-11 miles/day), in Shenandoah (4D 3N 10-12 miles/day), a lower Manistee/NCT loop (3D 2N 23 total miles) and Pictured Rocks (my fav so far 4D 3N for the 42ish miles) with a lot of day hiking all over the place (sometimes carrying a child in a carrier). We were looking at either Isle Royale or the Adirondacks and clearly Isle Royale has won out since I'm on here!

We still have a lot of flexibility as far as dates/number of days etc so I have a few questions:

1. We are coming from lower MI, will drive up probably on a Saturday to Houghton. We are planning on the seaplane since I get motion sickness quite easily and don't want to risk barfing my brains out to start our adventure. Plus my husband has always wanted to take a seaplane. It's our splurge. I was initially thinking we could spent three or maybe four days on the island before returning and going over to the Porkies, but from my reading most people want to stay longer so I am now thinking we'll get on the island on Sunday and get off on either Thursday or Friday afternoon (on a later plane, leaning toward Friday) and focusing only on our stay there. Comments on this possible itinerary:

Arrive Sunday morning - hike to Moskey Basin (11 miles)
Monday - Moskey Basin to McCargo Cove (8.4 miles)
Tuesday - McCargoe Cove to Daisy Farm (8.2 miles)
Wednesday - Daisy Farm to Lane Cove (6.9 miles)
Thursday - Lane Cove to Rock Harbor (6.9 miles)
Friday - Day hike to Scoville and leave

I know the first day hike is more ambitious, but if we get an early start it doesn't seem too bad provided the trail isn't too aggressive. The other possibility I've thought of to adjust that itinerary it to rent a kayak on Sunday and paddle - possibly to Lookout Louise - staying at Three Mile and heading to Moskey on Monday, adjusting days and picking up our itinerary there and instead of going to Lane Cove from Daisy Farm, just going back to Rock Harbor (or keeping that day and skipping the day hike to Scoville on Friday instead hiking out to the plane from Lane Cove).

I've thought about a Windigo to Rock Harbor trip, but like how much flexibility there is staying on the East side for our first trip to the island should we want to adjust our schedule at at all.

2. Since we still haven't decided which week to go - any input? Our initial thought was the week of the fourth of July because it's a saved vacation day, but it really isn't a big deal to use that extra vacation day another week. It seems like we are risking major bugs going the first week of July. We could go anytime from the beginning of June through the end of August. May is likely out due to my work schedule. When would you say is the best time to go? While we have dealt with bugs and have used Jungle Juice, I'd prefer to avoid them if possible. It seems we usually do our trips around the third week of July because of our anniversary, and that's when we did Pictured Rocks with fabulous weather (outside of skeeters at one campsite only). We don't mind running into people and having a good conversation or sharing a campfire (we're extroverts) but our preference is fewer crowds.

3. While I own a lightweight hiking shoe, after our first trip wearing them I decided I was much more comfortable in my running shoes. Outside of our first trip in the Smokies, all my backpacking and hiking has been done in my running shoes and it has been so much nicer. That said, it seems that many of the trails on ISRO are quite rocky. Is that accurate? If so, I might consider buying a new pair of hiking shoes for increased sole stiffness. I remember a day hike in W. VA that was super rocky (sharp rocks too) that tired my feet some, but was still doable...without a pack.

Thanks for any input!
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Re: Possible Itinerary and Dates - Feedback?

Post by JerryB »

Welcome! A few thoughts for you.
I know some minimalists may disagree, but I cannot imagine a trip like yours in running shoes. The trails are intermittently rocky and root-filled, but seldom flat and smooth. I would also suggest you plan for a layover day--it will add to your flexibility, allow you to stay over at a site you find especially nice and gives you a way to avoid hiking in a storm. As for when to go, I really like early in the season because of fewer bugs, cooler temperatures and, if leaf out is not complete, better views. That said, anytime is a great time! On your first day's hike, it seems long to me, especially for a first day with loaded packs and trail legs not fully under you. But you know your preferences and I do not. Have a great trip.
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Re: Possible Itinerary and Dates - Feedback?

Post by Ingo »

I truly enjoyed the one time I took the seaplane. But most of my trips are with a canoe, so it's not usually an option. But the seaplane is most affected by the weather (fog is an issue) and most likely to be delayed, so you need to be flexible. It's unlikely (although possible) to be delayed for a whole day, but not all that rare for your scheduled morning flight to be, say, in the afternoon. For that reason I don't think I'd plan to hit Moskey the first night--also your packs would be heaviest on your longest day. Something like Daisy -> McCargoe -> Moskey -> Lane -> RH should work, and it would put your longest day later in the trip where you would could easily adjust it (e.g. decide to stay at Three Mile instead of Lane Cove).

I like the last half of July for timing. Skeeter and flies have been tolerable for me, and less likely to be full campgrounds than August. Late June/early July I think you risk being eaten alive (ok, that may be a slight exaggeration). In any case, I always bring a headnet as cheap and lightweight insurance, since it varies so much in timing and location.

I think you'll want to beef up on footwear with heavier soles. Last summer my daughter used lightweight day hiking boots and was feeling the rocks some just day hiking--she said they were OK, but there would be no way she'd want them with a pack on. But everyone's different--I know folks have done the whole island in sandals, something I can't comprehend!

I'd save the kayak option for the end of the trip when you have more flexibility. Paddling around Tobin Harbor is great. The view from Lookout Louise is similar to Mt Franklin, so if you had good weather there you aren't really missing something--although you may want to enjoy it again.
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Re: Possible Itinerary and Dates - Feedback?

Post by Tightlines01 »

Hi there a couple random thoughts for you....
I'm pretty familiar with the east end of the island, Rock => Moskey is ambitious for the 1st day but doable. For me personally it takes a couple days for me to get my "Trail Legs" under me. I've done Moskey to Rock before, but at the end of the trip. Doable, just get an early start. Don't underestimate this section of the trail though, it's pretty flat, but not many flat steps in this section. The section between Daisy and Moskey is usually under rated by many and is full of small ups and downs and lots of angled steps on rocks. If its raining it'll be treacherously slippery. If going to Moskey when it's busy (late July - mid Aug) get there early in the day. I've had trips where the campground filled up by 11:30 am during that time!

As for foot wear, everyone is different. I have hiked some in a hiking shoe, but for Isle Royale, need good hard soled mid ankle boots for the foot and ankle support. The trails on the island are not massive ups and downs in elevation (although you can find some quick 4-500 foot changes), but it’s all the compounded steps on rocks and roots that add up for foot/ankle/knee/hip strain.

I’ve gone to the island in several months. Usually the bugs aren’t bad until about mid/later june and taper of by late July. The busies time of the year will be three weeks from the end of July and first few weeks of August. It seems to me, at any given time 66% of the people will be on the eastern half of the island, I’m growing to like the western end a good bit more, however as you mentioned you have many many more options on the east end.

The sea plane can be a great asset or a huge pain. Benefits are multiple trips a day, leaves from Houghton (and you can be underway much earlier in the day saving a hotel bill), drop off and pick up at either end of the island. Negatives… Price and can be greatly affected by weather… I have taken the plane twice (and had to bail and take the boat the last time I tried). Early or later in the year is worse for fog, generally mid-summer is better more reliable. The last time I tried to take it I lost 2 days sitting in the airport before I cancelled and went on the boat to salvage some part of a trip.

I’d recommend a layover day also. I love the flexibility to stay an extra day or not hike in the rain needing to get to a campground by a day to stay on track/plan.
Enjoy your stay the island is magical.
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Re: Possible Itinerary and Dates - Feedback?

Post by OutdoorMom »

Thanks for your replies. This is super helpful!

I'll keep thinking about the sea plane. If we build in a layover day it would give some more flexibility (although I'm sure we'd be a bit frustrated if we are delayed a day). I'm just a bit leery of the boat for the sickness reasons. I think I've read that earlier in the season increases your chance for a smoother ride? I take Dramamine every time I am on a flight over 3 hours (under that and I'm knocked out too much to function when we land). I react poorly to the less drowsy variety and unfortunately, the only time I threw up on a plane was when taking it. Under 3 hours I eat a whole box of crackers! Ha!

I didn't think about the trip "backwards." I'm thinking now:

Sunday: arrive and to Daisy Farm (7.1 miles)
Monday: Daisy Farm to McCargoe Cove (8.2)
Tuesday: Stay at McCargoe cove - check out Minong Mine and maybe day hike out toward Todd Harbor...mileage without packs, however far we feel like going
Wednesday: McCargoe to Moskey Basin (8.4)
Thursday: Moskey Basin to Lane, 3 mile or Rock Harbor - if we are feeling great, probably Lane and we can skip kayaking, if not as great we can head to 3 mile.
Friday: Either finish to Rock Harbor or get up and day hike around or kayak.

Is McCargoe or Moskey better to spend as a layover day if conditions are ideal and all goes as planned? I'm under no false assumption that everything will go as planned. We've changed previous trips partway through based on various factors so we are used to adapting on the fly.

Timing - it makes me think maybe the first week or two of June might be nice or the last week or two of July.

I can't comprehend hiking in sandals either! There is such a high degree of individual preference. I have to replace my sleeping pad anyway so while I'm at REI I might as well try some on ;-)
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Re: Possible Itinerary and Dates - Feedback?

Post by Tightlines01 »

OutdoorMom wrote:Thanks for your replies. This is super helpful!

I'll keep thinking about the sea plane. If we build in a layover day it would give some more flexibility (although I'm sure we'd be a bit frustrated if we are delayed a day). I'm just a bit leery of the boat for the sickness reasons. I think I've read that earlier in the season increases your chance for a smoother ride? I take Dramamine every time I am on a flight over 3 hours (under that and I'm knocked out too much to function when we land). I react poorly to the less drowsy variety and unfortunately, the only time I threw up on a plane was when taking it. Under 3 hours I eat a whole box of crackers! Ha!

I didn't think about the trip "backwards." I'm thinking now:

Sunday: arrive and to Daisy Farm (7.1 miles)
Monday: Daisy Farm to McCargoe Cove (8.2)
Tuesday: Stay at McCargoe cove - check out Minong Mine and maybe day hike out toward Todd Harbor...mileage without packs, however far we feel like going
Wednesday: McCargoe to Moskey Basin (8.4)
Thursday: Moskey Basin to Lane, 3 mile or Rock Harbor - if we are feeling great, probably Lane and we can skip kayaking, if not as great we can head to 3 mile.
Friday: Either finish to Rock Harbor or get up and day hike around or kayak.

Is McCargoe or Moskey better to spend as a layover day if conditions are ideal and all goes as planned? I'm under no false assumption that everything will go as planned. We've changed previous trips partway through based on various factors so we are used to adapting on the fly.

Timing - it makes me think maybe the first week or two of June might be nice or the last week or two of July.

I can't comprehend hiking in sandals either! There is such a high degree of individual preference. I have to replace my sleeping pad anyway so while I'm at REI I might as well try some on ;-)

While McCargoe is nice most would say that Moskey is better. In fact Moskey is my favorite in the island.... LOVE Moskey...

If your feeling good I'd recommend going up to the greenstone ridge from Daisy. Go across to the Mt Franklin/Lane cove junction and decide which way you want to go... don't forget to stop by Mt Franklin .3 mikes before the junction. It's not a MTV per set, more of an amazing overview outlook. One of my favorite views on the island.


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Re: Possible Itinerary and Dates - Feedback?

Post by JerryB »

You have another option to the sea plane, but it involves a good deal more driving for you. If you came to IR from Minnesota, the ferry ride, especially on the Sea Hunter, is much shorter. If you do that, you have quite a few options for hikes. It may not be worth the extra driving for you.
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Re: Possible Itinerary and Dates - Feedback?

Post by MikeT »

Your revised itinerary looks a lot better. Rock Harbor to Moskey would be a very long first day with full packs. When doing the stretch from Rock Harbor to Daisy Farm, take the Tobin Harbor trail instead of the Rock Harbor trail to Three Mile. It is a bit longer, but much easier and faster. You can always walk that section on the way back.

Moskey Basin is a beautiful campground, but there is not much to do there (besides soaking in the beauty). if spending a whole day, I would rather spend the day at McCargoe Cove and explore the mine site and walk up the ridge with views of the north side and three lakes.

Moskey to Lane Cove is a very long hike, but you have all kinds of options along the way. Note: I would avoid Chickenbone East campground unless absolutely necessary as it is not very nice and water access is a pain.
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Re: Possible Itinerary and Dates - Feedback?

Post by OutdoorMom »

I think we've landed on the first week of June - taking off from home on Saturday the 3rd and getting to the island on the 4th. And we've checked with grandpa and grandma for babysitting availability...having the only grandkids on both sides of the family means they are always more than willing! ;-) Fewer people and still a good probability of fairly decent weather is a bit more appealing than the warmer weather in August...and of course hoping to avoid the worst of the bug season!

While the Sea Hunter ride is much more appealing...its an extra 5 hours of driving each way that isn't quite worth it! We are still in the midst of the plane v boat decision. We'll hopefully land on something soon.

Thanks for the tip on the Tobin Harbor v Rock Harbor Trail.

Y'all are so awesome and helpful.
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Possible Itinerary and Dates - Feedback?

Post by Tightlines01 »

I've been right around that time frame a couple times. Should be good weather for you...

Many schools in MI have extended their year this year due to new regulations. I think you have a good chance of going without many high school groups which will reduce the population a lot.

The bugs shouldn't be too bad. Weather will likely be warm. It wont be Hot days, but likely warm while your moving (think good hiking weather) and cool to cold nights. Beware under packing warm layers though... last year I went starting on June 9 and we ran into one day where it rained all day. We spent it as a zero day inside a shelter. I had drug the picnic table inside the night before when it started to rain. We spent the entire day inside in our bags with everything we had on playing cards and drinking warm drinks as we could see our breath the ENTIRE day. Not the day to be hiking.... it was definitely abnormal, but be prepared. I'd highly encourage a zero day for inclement weather.

Bugs should be fine yet.

In my experience early season has the higher possibility of delaying (or canceling all together) the sea plane due to fog.

Enjoy your trip!

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