Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

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Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by dcclark »

I'm planning a late May solo trip, and I'd like to bushwhack from Moskey to the Mt. Saginaw / Newt Lake area on foot. This would be a day trip from Moskey.

Background: This is my 3rd trip to the island, and my first in the spring (the rest have been August). I have years of bushwhacking experience in the Keweenaw and Porcupine Mountains, so I am solid on off-trail issues in general. But, I've never gone off-trail in any serious way on the island, and nothing substitutes for on-the-ground reports. I understand the dangers inherent in going off-trail, especially solo. I own and know how to use a compass and appropriate maps, plus a backup GPS. I'll be prepared for a night in the woods if anything goes wrong.

Some things I'd be especially interested in knowing:
  1. If you've bushwhacked in this general area, what did you do, and what did you think of it overall?
  2. Aerials and topos show two long swamps between ridges immediately south from Moskey campground, with a point sticking out into the basin just between them. Are the swamps passable? Is the shoreline followable in those areas?
  3. Once the terrain starts to rise (just east of Wallace lake), how does the forest change? Is it more passable, or not? The best ground-cover survey I could find -- not terribly recent -- shows that high land as mostly "Aspen/White Birch forest", which reminds me of the areas uphill from Chippewa Harbor left by the 1930's fire. That would imply open understory that's relatively easy to walk -- is that still accurate?
  4. Is it worth aiming for the high points around Newt Lake (including Mt. Saginaw)? Is there anything to be seen from up there?
I know that May will be wet, but there will also be a lot less undergrowth -- I'd never try this in August. I would love to hear any thoughts or advice you have!
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by treeplanter »

We tried to bushwhack from the Moskey area to Saginaw Point, many years back. The forest in the area of Moskey Basin area is mainly a white birch/aspen overstory with a thick sapling-sized balsam fir understory. The balsam was so thick we hiked about twenty feet and quit. There was no way we were going to make our way through the jungle. Fighting through thick, pitchy balsam with a backpack just wasn't a good idea. That was more than 20 years ago so maybe that balsam fir understory is now bigger. A few years after that attempt, I kayaked to Saginaw Point and spent an afternoon exploring the jack pine forest that grows in the Mt. Saginaw area (ecologically, a very unique forest that few people ever see). That was easy walking. Virtually no understory beneath the jack pine so exploring was a breeze.

No comment on the low areas you may encounter, we never made it that far. Since you're going in May, count on wet swamps and maybe snow in the deep, shaded forest. And no, no views from Mt. Saginaw.
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by Midwest Ed »

I can second treeplanter's feedback on the super dense boreal forest of balsam fir along the south side of Moskey Basin. The better news is that I suspect the bad news forest only extends a few to several hundred yards.

I have had this vegetation survey:
Image

Here is a link to a higher resolution PDF version from 2009

The NPS has a large vegetation survey from 1997 to 2000 but I haven't spent much time sifting through it but from what I did see it looks like it might help.

Even though the straight line mileage is greater if you start at Chippewa Harbor, I suspect the going would be much easier.
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by dcclark »

Thanks, treeplanter and Ed. This is what I was afraid of. That boreal forest area looks like it "lines" the swampy areas, so I'm double worried about them.

Is the shoreline walkable around the end of the harbor? Aerials don't help much with that. I could imagine a relatively clear, rocky shore -- or one densely overhung with cedars or balsam.
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by treeplanter »

The vegetation map is good, but be aware that it shows overstory, not understory. All that balsam fir understory won't show on that map. But you can assume that if you find a aspen/birch overstory, it will have a balsam fir understory.

As for hiking the shoreline bordering Moskey basin, back in 2016 we visited with Rolf Peterson at his place on Moskey Basin. We took the "Sandy" to the Rock Harbor lighthouse, then followed a trail literally hacked through the balsam fir understory to his place. Between the thick balsam fir, and rocky shore, trying to follow the shoreline to Saginaw Point would be very difficult, if not impossible.

Ed's suggestion of starting from Chippewa Harbor is a good one. The 1936 burn covers a lot of the shoreline area from Chip to Saginaw Point, so the vegetation is still in the recovery stage (70-80 years later!). We did some off-trail hiking here years back and walking is relatively easy. There are still many rocky ridges that haven't grown back. With GPS, and a good compass and map, you could probably hike to Saginaw Point without many problems.
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by IncaRoads »

dcclark wrote: Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:31 am Is the shoreline walkable around the end of the harbor?
In early season, a lot of the lower land like that at the end of Moskey Basin is quite saturated. The shoreline is un-walkable as the swampy lowlands extend right up to the big lake. I've had plenty of times where you take a step on the mud and go down 6-8 inches or more; there are some areas that are a bit marshy and you have no other choice but to move forward or take a big detour. A good pair of boots and gaitors are a must. I also wear a pair of gloves when hiking in the thick bush. You will be grabbing and hanging on to a lot of trees and branches.

I have heard that a reasonable route to Mt. Saginaw area is to head from the Moskey campground to the north shore of Wallace Lake, staying away from the Lake Superior shoreline where the density of the forest makes it tough walking. Keep on the highest ground possible and be prepared for wet areas not indicated on any map/photo. It is a very thick forest so take your time. Expect to do no better than 1 mile/hour as you will experience many detours around un-planned obstacles. Then head up the gully south of Newt Lake and then over to Mt. Saginaw, or to the high points to the west of Newt Lake. You may find rock outcroppings that present you with limited views.

With all your bushwhacking experience in the U.P., you should have no problem with this day hike. Start early, take your time, and have fun. Remember to look backwards periodically as you may be retracing some of your steps on the return route.
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by Midwest Ed »

treeplanter wrote: Mon Mar 18, 2019 8:14 amAs for hiking the shoreline bordering Moskey basin, back in 2016 we visited with Rolf Peterson at his place on Moskey Basin. We took the "Sandy" to the Rock Harbor lighthouse, then followed a trail literally hacked through the balsam fir understory to his place. Between the thick balsam fir, and rocky shore, trying to follow the shoreline to Saginaw Point would be very difficult, if not impossible.
Here are a couple of pictures I took in 2013 of the trail treeplanter mentioned from the Edison Fishery to the Peterson's place at the Bangsund cabin. It's a real dark tunnel on a bright sunny day. The places I took pictures were in the few areas where there was some sunshine in order to get a good exposure. The Balsam were typically spaced less than a foot apart.
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by dcclark »

Thanks all for some excellent advice.
treeplanter wrote: Mon Mar 18, 2019 8:14 am The vegetation map is good, but be aware that it shows overstory, not understory. All that balsam fir understory won't show on that map. But you can assume that if you find a aspen/birch overstory, it will have a balsam fir understory.

Ed's suggestion of starting from Chippewa Harbor is a good one. The 1936 burn covers a lot of the shoreline area from Chip to Saginaw Point, so the vegetation is still in the recovery stage (70-80 years later!). We did some off-trail hiking here years back and walking is relatively easy. There are still many rocky ridges that haven't grown back. With GPS, and a good compass and map, you could probably hike to Saginaw Point without many problems.
This is helpful -- hiking up the Indian Portage trail from Chippewa, I was impressed at how open the understory was in much of that area, probably due to the 1930's fire. Nothing near as dense as other parts of the island. I'm hopeful that some the forest south of Moskey might be this way. That said, your description and Midwest Ed's photos make me think that I'm just being wishful.

I wish I could do the suggested bushwhack from Chippewa Harbor east, but reaching Chippewa and then spending a day in the bush isn't reasonable for me this trip. That does sound like a fun hike though.
IncaRoads wrote: Mon Mar 18, 2019 9:12 am In early season, a lot of the lower land like that at the end of Moskey Basin is quite saturated. The shoreline is un-walkable as the swampy lowlands extend right up to the big lake. I've had plenty of times where you take a step on the mud and go down 6-8 inches or more; there are some areas that are a bit marshy and you have no other choice but to move forward or take a big detour. A good pair of boots and gaitors are a must. I also wear a pair of gloves when hiking in the thick bush. You will be grabbing and hanging on to a lot of trees and branches.

I have heard that a reasonable route to Mt. Saginaw area is to head from the Moskey campground to the north shore of Wallace Lake, staying away from the Lake Superior shoreline where the density of the forest makes it tough walking. Keep on the highest ground possible and be prepared for wet areas not indicated on any map/photo. It is a very thick forest so take your time. Expect to do no better than 1 mile/hour as you will experience many detours around un-planned obstacles. Then head up the gully south of Newt Lake and then over to Mt. Saginaw, or to the high points to the west of Newt Lake. You may find rock outcroppings that present you with limited views.
That's what I was afraid of for the shoreline. But, thanks for the suggested route here. I may give it a try. I usually plan 1/2 mile/hr bushwhacking, so 1 mile per hour sounds like easy going. :)

The open ridgetops near Newt Lake look enticing to me, even if there's not too much to see. But it looks like I will need to be a bit more conservative in my planning and have some backups ready.
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by IncaRoads »

dcclark wrote: Mon Mar 18, 2019 4:37 pm I usually plan 1/2 mile/hr bushwhacking, so 1 mile per hour sounds like easy going. :)
1/2 miles/hour in thick woods with water hazards may be a better approximation!

Since I travel solo like yourself, I leave a note in my tent/shelter indicating the approximate route I plan to take.
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by johnhens »

IncaRoads wrote: Mon Mar 18, 2019 7:04 pm
dcclark wrote: Mon Mar 18, 2019 4:37 pm I usually plan 1/2 mile/hr bushwhacking, so 1 mile per hour sounds like easy going. :)
1/2 miles/hour in thick woods with water hazards may be a better approximation!

Since I travel solo like yourself, I leave a note in my tent/shelter indicating the approximate route I plan to take.
Good idea!!!
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by dcclark »

IncaRoads wrote: Mon Mar 18, 2019 7:04 pm Since I travel solo like yourself, I leave a note in my tent/shelter indicating the approximate route I plan to take.
Good idea. I plan to talk with a ranger at check-in too, both to get more on-the-ground info and to let more people know what I'm about to do. (Plus of course leaving a general plan with my wife, who is a fantastic backpacking companion -- but wants nothing to do with the mud/snow/cold involved here!).
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by treeplanter »

I know you're not going to camp, but there are regulations for cross-country camping. Maybe helpful to review these:

https://www.nps.gov/isro/planyourvisit/ ... amping.htm
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Re: Bushwhacking Moskey to Mt. Saginaw

Post by dcclark »

treeplanter wrote: Tue Mar 19, 2019 10:54 am I know you're not going to camp, but there are regulations for cross-country camping. Maybe helpful to review these:

https://www.nps.gov/isro/planyourvisit/ ... amping.htm
No, definitely not planning to cross-country camp. I'm a fan of those shelters at Moskey! But of course I'll be prepared for a night in the woods, in case something goes wrong.
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