First time Canoe Trip to IR

Questions about water transportation and fishing on the island.

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DQuebed
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First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by DQuebed »

I'm planning a canoeing trip with my girlfriend to Isle Royale and was trying to figure out a reasonable path with minimum portage.

My idea right now is to get delivered at Chippewa Harbor by the Voyager II and then access Lake Ritchie, spend sometime camping/fishing around the Lake Richie area for some nights, then return for a Voyager II pick up at Chippewa Harbor.

Two major questions though:

First, the maps seem to indicate a stream going from Chippewa to Lake Ritchie, but also a portage trail. Is it possible to make it from the harbor to the lake by canoeing without portage?

Second, if I can make it by paddling, is Lake Ritchie a really nice area for camping/fishing? If I can't make it from Chippewa, what is the minimal portage path to Lake Ritchie from a Voyager II drop off area?
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Ingo
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by Ingo »

(1) No, you can not paddle the stream. (2) Lake Ritchie is very nice and good northern fishing. The canoe campground is particularly nice.

That is about the only portage I haven't done, but from others' reports it may the 3rd toughest or so on the island. But as with any of them, if you take your time within your means, they're all doable. However, a couple other options would be:

(a) Drop off/pick up at Malone Bay, and paddle up Lake Siskiwit to Wood Lake. Easier portage, but more potential for rough waters on Siskiwit because it's so big. Wood Lake is one of my favorite campsites. We caught lots of small pike there, and a couple decent ones up the shore of Siskiwit. Siskiwit also has lake trout. And if you felt like it, you could portage into Whittlesey. The portage isn't too bad and Whittlesey also has walleye.

(b) Drop off at Chippewa Harbor, and make your way to Malone Bay. You're committing to a three portages here. The first one from Chippewa to Whittlesey can be a little rough on the feet with rocks and roots, but they get easier as you go.

The only reason I'm mentioning these options is because you seem adverse to the portaging. (a) would be the absolute minimum and (b) would maybe a little easier overall than your original, but pretty close. But I like traveling at least a little, and that one is on my list for an easy canoe trip with my wife some year. Whatever you do you'll have a great trip, I'm sure!
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jrwiesz
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by jrwiesz »

DQuebed wrote:I'm planning a canoeing trip with my girlfriend to Isle Royale and was trying to figure out a reasonable path with minimum portage.

... If I can't make it from Chippewa, what is the minimal portage path to Lake Ritchie from a Voyager II drop off area?
Malone to Siskiwit(0.3), to Intermediate(0.4), to Richie(0.6). A total of 1.3 portage miles.

Chippewa to Richie is 1.2 continuous portage miles, but the above is a much easier means, with split up portages.

One could spend weeks paddling that area between Siskiwit and, Wood, Whittlesey, or Intermediate, Richie.
"And standing on the the crest of the Greenstone Ridge, I suddenly had this desire to retreat north to where I just come, to stay in the backcountry, to spend another day in a place where the only deadline I had was to pitch the tent before dark."
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by Ingo »

Malone to Siskiwit(0.3), to Intermediate(0.4), to Richie(0.6). A total of 1.3 portage miles.
I missed that obvious option. But as always, someone's gonna cover you here :)

The nice thing about I.R. is that while you do have to fill out an itinerary when you arrive, you can change it as you go. So Malone gives you more options than Chippewa. The other thing I didn't mention is that you can stop at Ryan Island and say you've been on the largest island on the largest lake on the largest island on the largest (freshwater) lake in the world!
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by jrwiesz »

In my avatar, I'm sitting on a rock that is on the NW corner of Ryan Island, one can see the Greenstone in the background. 8)

I'll give Ingo the nod with the paddling knowledge/adventures, as I'm sure(judging by his avatar) he has many more hours paddling the Isle than I have. :)

My only paddling on the Isle was in 2005(first trip to the Isle). 6 paddlers, 3 canoes, 7 nights.
Copper Harbor to RH(first night), via Voyager to Malone Bay(night #2), to Wood Lake(#3), thru Intermediate to Richie(#4 & 5), to Daisy Farm(#6), to RH(#7).

Since that initial adventure, I have considered Isle Royale the best place on the planet to play outdoors. JMHO.

Isle Royale Rocks!!! :D
"And standing on the the crest of the Greenstone Ridge, I suddenly had this desire to retreat north to where I just come, to stay in the backcountry, to spend another day in a place where the only deadline I had was to pitch the tent before dark."
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DQuebed
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by DQuebed »

Thanks for the recommendations everyone! You certainly saved us from a backbreaking 1.3 mile portage! We'll definitely start at Malone Bay instead. Both the routes to Wood Lake and Intermediate Lake seem interesting, I'll have to think over which to ultimately choose.
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by bergman »

U sorta knocked on my door so I'm gonna answer.

Adopt Ingo's option #2. Taking the voyaguer, u have the incredible option of getting dropped at chippewa, and being picked up again at Malone Bay. If your girlfriend ever found out what u guys had passed up, u would be in the doghouse.

The V-2 will drop u at Chip about 10am. If its raining hard and there is an open shelter, its a no-brainer. If its decent, u have plenty of time to comfortably make your way to Whittlesey and set up camp there. On the portage into whittlesey, dont try to carrry more than the canoe on your first leg. Both of u will have to make 2 trips to portage the gear. Take your time.

The portage into Whittlesey is easy to find, tucked all the way back into the far SW corner of the harbor. It is not at all easy to get out of the canoe or unload gear at the designated portage. U may find it a bit more pleasant to paddle just beyond the portage and unload at the sand beach. At least u could have your partner step out of the canoe on the beach, then u could take the boat back over to the portage spot.

The portage is 2/3 mile into whittlesey, climbs 14 stories, then drops 7 stories to the lake. To find the campsite, paddle as far as 2 little islands next to each other in the middle of the lake. Which means u just passed by the campsite on your right.

The portage from whittlesey into wood is very pleasant (but don't tell anybody), and is 0.6 miles with rolling hills and only 80' elevation change. Camp at wood lake for 1 or 2 nites, realizing that u have to paddle siskiwit to get to malone bay; paddling into a strong west wind would be tough, though u can hug the south shore the entire way.

The portage from lake siskiwit to the shelters at malone bay is probably 0.25 mi., And quite mild. From the shelters, however, it is still a short hike to the boat dock where u will be picked up. Not sure how easy it is to launch a canoe in front of the shelters, in order to paddle your gear (rather than carry it) over to the boat dock. Say hi to michael for me.

A longer portage shouldn't deter u if u only have to do it once (meaning u don't have to tackle it again during your trip). And if u forget an item on a portage like the fishing poles, just send her back (she's lighter on her feet) to grab it; that will give u a chance to drink that extra beer (hey, it was an odd man out); you brought the mints, right?

U dont want to be portaging beers anyway.

Mazeltov!
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by bergman »

Respecting Loons on Lake Whittlesey

From mid-May through July 15 (loon nesting season) visitors are to stay at least 150' away from small islands.

Last May, Whittlesey had 3 pair of loons. When I returned in September, the pair that hangs out on the 2 tiny islands (referenced in my post above) was gone.

So if u r visiting during that time, realize that the entire area between the 2 tiny islands and the north shoreline of the lake (just west of the campsite) is CLOSED. Also, while looking for the campsite location, u will want to stop well short of the first tiny island.

Also, when u first begin paddling on Whittlesey, u will quickly have to choose which side of a very long & narrow island u will paddle on. I'm pretty sure the right side (north) of the island is likewise closed during the loon nesting season.

Thanks!
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by Midwest Ed »

From my perspective, starting a Malone Bay and making your way to Chippewa Harbor is the optimal route. The main reason for this direction is that it puts the Siskiwit Lake stretch at the beginning. If your end point was Malone Bay, you wouldn't want have strong winds pop up on Siskiwit Lake the day you planned to arrive at Malone day, with no days left to spare, only to be stuck at Wood Lake or risk the high waves to "get home".

Starting at Malone Bay (and scheduling a flexible day or two) puts this risk (even though minor) at the front end. You could easily spend several days making your way across the 3 lakes and Chippewa Harbor but it is also easy enough that it could all be done in a day if under pressure. And Chippewa Harbor would be a great place to end the journey or even spend an extra day or two.

In 1978 a friend and I departed from Grand Portage, MN and in 5 nights we canoed the route from - Rock Harbor - Caribou Island - Daisy Farm - Moskey Basin - Lake Ritchie - Intermediate Lake - Siskiwit Lake - Wood Lake - Lake Whittlesey - Chippewa Harbor. We only caught fish in Lake Ritchie and Lake Whittlesey. It was a fantastic and memorable trip. I'd do any version of it again in a heartbeat.

~Ed
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by bergman »

Hey Midwest Ed. That's a great idea to start at malone bay. Somehow since the V-2's circumnavigation is clockwise, it is counter-intuititive (for me anyway) to think in terms of going "backwards" on the route. What's funny is that my first trip to Lake Whittlesey was done in that exact manner, but i guess the memory had faded. We took the Queen, then rode the V-2 to Malone; then boat-taxied back from Chippewa Harbor to Rock Harbor Marina, to return home on the Queen. So two heads ARE better than one!

The other bonus with Ed's suggestion is that the whittlesey/chip harbor portage is easier going eastbound.
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by jrwiesz »

DQuebed wrote:...We'll definitely start at Malone Bay instead. Both the routes to Wood Lake and Intermediate Lake seem interesting, I'll have to think over which to ultimately choose.
You could do Malone thru Siskiwit to Wood, Wood thru Siskiwit to Intermediate or Richie.

Do a backtrack for your return, and get picked up where you got dropped off at Malone.

Keep in mind that wind/weather always plays a role in traversing Siskiwit.

One suggestion, if you stay the first evening at Malone, definitely portage your boat into Siskiwit for the evening bite. :D

Also, know that if you get picked up at Malone/Chippewa, by the Voyager, for your return to RH, you will need to spend a night(possibly two) at Windigo, before the Voyagers return trip via north shore to RH. A lot of logistics, with boat schedules, weather possibilities, etc. But, you get to see a part of the Isle most don't get to see. You will have to make these arrangements unless, you want to do the portage from Richie to Moskey Basin, and paddle to Snug harbor for your pick up(Mott Isle if you use the Ranger to-from Isle).

The possibilities are numerous, and can be overwhelming. But you have plenty of plan time. :)
"And standing on the the crest of the Greenstone Ridge, I suddenly had this desire to retreat north to where I just come, to stay in the backcountry, to spend another day in a place where the only deadline I had was to pitch the tent before dark."
Jim DuFresne
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by bergman »

Without clarification, I assume DQuebed is starting at Grand Portage. So the overnite(s) at Windigo would be unnecessary unless you believe in monsters, and are hoping to see the "windigo".
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Re: First time Canoe Trip to IR

Post by Wilderness Junkie »

Don't forget the water taxi option. While they are not cheap, they sure add some 'options'. They can drop you off / pick you up from Malone thus saving you those 'static' days waiting for the V-2 depending on which end of the island you are arriving / departing.
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