Question re plan for June canoe trip

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Tim from Montana
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Question re plan for June canoe trip

Post by Tim from Montana »

Hi -- my wife and I are considering a paddling trip on Isle Royale to be scheduled during the first two weeks of June 2019. We are both in our mid-50s, generally pretty fit, and would bring our 16-foot Kevlar canoe. We have paddled the Upper Missouri Wild and Scenic River in Montana, the Green River through Canyonlands National Park, and lakes in Grand Teton National Park and elsewhere. But we don't have any experience with a lake-to-lake portage trip, much less a trip involving big open water like Lake Superior. With that in mind, I would appreciate any thoughts from experienced Isle Royale travelers on the following proposed itinerary, which would begin from Rock Harbor:

Day 1: Rock Harbor to Caribou Island or Moskey Basin
Day 2: Caribou or Moskey to Lake Richie
Day 3: Lake Richie to Chickenbone Lake
Day 4: Chickenbone Lake to McCargoe Cove
Day 5: McCargoe Cove to Belle Isle
Day 6: Belle Isle to Duncan Bay or Duncan Narrows
Day 7: Return to Rock Harbor

Thanks in advance for any thoughts you can provide. If this itinerary does not make sense, I would appreciate any alternative suggestions.
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Re: Question re plan for June canoe trip

Post by johnhens »

Welcome to the Forums!!
Your first day would depend on conditions in Rock Harbor. Could have 6' waves if the winds are NE or SW. Good to have a VHF or at least a weather radio. The portage to Ritchie is not difficult, just long. The portage going over the Greenstone is steep going up and steep going down. McCargoe to Belle is an open water paddle for part of the way. Look at the bouys that mark the entrance to McCargoe from Belle. If they are rocking, will be a tough paddle to at least Pickerel portage. 3' waves stack up as they get close to shore and turn into 5-6' waves. Also the water will still be in the high 30's, wear a wet suit at least. I assume you would do the Duncan-Tobin portage? Steep from Duncan to the ridge.
Ingo will have more info.
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Re: Question re plan for June canoe trip

Post by Ingo »

Hey Tim, welcome to the forums! That's a great itinerary. The only thing I'd change is to skip Chickenbone and go from Richie to McCargoe. That gives you a day to play with if the weather prevents the open water paddle from Birch Island to Pickeral Cove. And if you don't need it, Belle Isle is a great place for a layover day. The other alternative is to add another day if you can (and best option :)).

As for portaging, make sure you have good yoke pads, even with a kevlar canoe. You have a couple of tough portages and could add 10+ lbs with paddles, life jackets, and fishing gear tied in. Practice a little with where you tie things in to the get the balance right before you go--it's really tiring keeping the canoe level on your shoulders, and quite satisfying when it balances perfectly. Figuring that out at home is easier than on the trail.

Your first portage is what I consider the hardest, just because of the length (2+ miles). On any long portage I prefer to treat it as 2: take two trips to the half-way point, then repeat for the 2nd half. Breaks it up and the walk back without canoe or pack is actually a rest. The 2nd hardest portage is from Duncan to Tobin, because it's up and over the ridge, and rather steep on the north side. The top is my half-way point, regardless of the distance. Nice spot for lunch, too.

johnhens has pointed out the open water issues--for the most part you're pretty protected and it should be fairly obvious whether to go or not. There was one trip when I did not take his advice to pay attention to the McCargoe buoys and got into some dangerous stuff quicker than you would think possible--just be cautious and if there's any question remember it's not going to get any better as you go. Also, the biggest issues I've had in Rock Harbor have been with opposing swells coming through the gaps when the wind waves are straight up and down the harbor. The crossing wave trains can create almost whitewaterish conditions. Odds are you won't see terrible conditions in June, but anything is possible. Although I've never used a wetsuit myself, I do fully understand what that means to my life-expectancy if I were to end up in the water. The way this winter is shaping up I wouldn't be surprised to still see shore ice in June, so definitely expect water temps in the 30s.

Which boat are you taking? If you take the Ranger III, you can get off at Mott Island instead of Rock Harbor and save several miles the first day. Seems like every time I paddle Rock Harbor the wind is in our face!
22: BI-PC-BI-RH, 21: RH-ML-DF-MB-DF, 18: MC-PC-BI-DB-RH-DF, 17: WI-IM-SB-FL-WC, 16: RH-CI-TI-RH, 14: BI-ML-CI-CH-MB, 13: RH-PI, 12: MC-CB-HL-TH, 11: WC-HC-WC, 09: MC-BI-DN-RH, 05: MI-CI-MB-DF-RH-TM-RH, 02: MC-LR-WL-CH, 01: BI-DB-RH, 79: worked RH
Tim from Montana
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Re: Question re plan for June canoe trip

Post by Tim from Montana »

Thanks very much for all of this great advice. We would most likely be coming to Isle Royale on the Voyageur II from Grand Portage, Minnesota, so I think we would have to start at Rock Harbor rather than Mott Island. I do have a few additional questions: If I am understanding correctly, traveling from Lake Richie to McCargoe Cove in one day would make it a four-portage day. I assume from your advice to think about that option that the necessary portages are not too demanding? Also, what kind of weather can we reasonably expect in the first two weeks of June? And how severe should we expect the mosquitos and black flies to be during that period? Finally, is it reasonable to think about supplementing the food we bring with fish that we could catch on our route? Thanks again for the helpful information.
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Re: Question re plan for June canoe trip

Post by Ingo »

Tim from Montana wrote: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:33 am We would most likely be coming to Isle Royale on the Voyageur II from Grand Portage, Minnesota, so I think we would have to start at Rock Harbor rather than Mott Island.
You are correct in that case.
If I am understanding correctly, traveling from Lake Richie to McCargoe Cove in one day would make it a four-portage day. I assume from your advice to think about that option that the necessary portages are not too demanding?
Yeah, it is a longer day, but doable--I am assuming that you could do the portaging with no more than 2 trips across. The portage from Livermore into Chickenbone is really short and hardly counts ;). And you do have the option of calling it a day at W. Chickenbone and still making Belle Isle from there--I just think McCargoe has the edge over W Chickenbone if you have to choose. I have been held up at Birch Island for a day (and should have stayed 2), so you really do need an extra day available with respect to that open water section.
Also, what kind of weather can we reasonably expect in the first two weeks of June?
On the big lake the water temps will be cold, so expect nights in the 30s. You may see a 70 during the day, but more in the 50s-60s. Fog is also more common as the air is warming over the cold waters.
And how severe should we expect the mosquitos and black flies to be during that period?
Just depends on the year. The black flies tend to hatch in June--hope you beat them, but be prepared with headnets. The inland lakes are generally worse than those on Superior.
Finally, is it reasonable to think about supplementing the food we bring with fish that we could catch on our route? Thanks again for the helpful information.
Sure, but I never count on it. Richie and Chickenbone are good for Northern and Perch. Lake Trout should be shallow--I caught one off a shoal of an island in Belle Harbor. johnhens needs to chime in here--he's the real fisherman :).
22: BI-PC-BI-RH, 21: RH-ML-DF-MB-DF, 18: MC-PC-BI-DB-RH-DF, 17: WI-IM-SB-FL-WC, 16: RH-CI-TI-RH, 14: BI-ML-CI-CH-MB, 13: RH-PI, 12: MC-CB-HL-TH, 11: WC-HC-WC, 09: MC-BI-DN-RH, 05: MI-CI-MB-DF-RH-TM-RH, 02: MC-LR-WL-CH, 01: BI-DB-RH, 79: worked RH
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Re: Question re plan for June canoe trip

Post by johnhens »

If Spring is wet, mosquitoes can be troublesome. Blackflies are a crap shoot. The portages can be trouble, I think the bugs congreagate at the portages waiting till the canoe is hefted, to attack.
Mr Ingo, you are a funny man!!
Rock Harbor can be good (need a license for Superior waters). The waters off Daisy Farm toward Moskey can be productive in Spring. Lake Ritchie has always been good for pike. Chickenbone is good for pike and walleye. We have cuaght good size pike off the dock at McCargoe. If you get windbound at Birch, the bay behind is good for pike. Pickerel Cove can be good for pike. There are reefs off Belle, good for Lake Trout. Duncan Bay (north side of the bay) holds good sized pike. If you have the time, Tobin has some shallow reefs that hold Lake Trout. The Greenstone (The Park Paper) should be coming out soon, check the fishing regulations in there. 2018 Greenstone is on the General Questions page.
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