The "Rudest" Isle Royale Circumnavigation, August 2010(long)

Reports or links to reports on trips.

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Damon S
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The "Rudest" Isle Royale Circumnavigation, August 2010(long)

Post by Damon S »

The “Rudest” Isle Royale Circumnavigation

My wife Sarah and I decided to do another Isle Royale kayak circumnavigation this year. But this time, instead of rounding clockwise (the preferred route), we decided to travel counter clockwise.

Isle Royale always seems to lure us back for kayaking. We now have 4 trips logged.

Here’s how we faired on this go around:

Arrival in Copper Harbor:

Sunday August 15th, we arrived in Copper Harbor early following a wedding we were already attending up north. Checking NOAA occasionally, I noticed the winds picking up tremendously over the next few days, in to Monday the scheduled morning ferry over to the island on Queen. Predicted winds displayed a good Force 7 blow out of the west with waves building to 14 feet. Great, I said to myself. This trip we planned a couple extra days to spend a more leisurely paddle around the island instead of our 5 day circumnavigation a couple years ago. But it looked like we weren’t even getting out of Copper Harbor for maybe the first 2 days of our trip.

So the forecast was true and a full gale came in, turning the Queen around approximately 7 miles out of the harbor on Sunday. Believe the Captain said he was experiencing some 12 footers. Monday morning, gale continued and schedule to back that evening. Tuesday, still fairly strong and they decided a late departure to give the sea state a little more time to calm down. Since Sunday passengers were still hanging out, we were placed on the lottery but came up empty handed. Looked like even a later Wednesday departure for us. It wasn’t until Sarah hung out and found a couple that did win the lottery was a no show! So we were finally on the boat. Superior was still kicking up her heels and over 20 passengers out of the 80 some that were on the Queen got terribly sea sick. The puking seemed to reach a crescendo at one point and it took everything we had not to follow! Deckhands Bob and Zach were handing out plastic bags and otherwise attending to all the sick people on the boat....got a hand it to these guys. They had plastic bags tucked all along their belt loops like they were ready for a gun battle! Handing them out quick draw style! They deal with quite a bit in the passenger compartment making sure everyone is well taken care of.

Pulling into Rock Harbor early evening, the waiting passengers were already lined up like cordwood, anxious to leave. We packed our boats out as quickly as possibly and headed out to Merritt Lane for the evening. We didn’t want to stay in Rock Harbor.

Around Scoville point and not even an hour into our paddle, our first moose encounter near Boys Island. A smaller cow crossing south from Boys Island to Long Island. We then paddled into Merritt Lane camp and set up our tent. Dinner was prepared just as night fell.

Day 2:

A late departure out of Merritt Lane, we paddled around Blake with very calm conditions. We decided to make an easy paddle this day and just headed into Belle Island camp so we could get some early evening fishing in. Trolled up/down the channel several times....no luck. Very windy conditions.

Day 3-4:

Departed Belle for Little Todd Harbor. Another calm day with no headwinds. Quick lunch stop just west of McCargoe Cove and onward to L. Todd. Along the way near the outer islands of Todd Harbor, I noticed what looked like a small red salamander floating on the water. Looked dead, but my wife paddled over and she scooped him up. He perked up and enjoyed a ride to Wilson Island. We arrived in Little Todd late afternoon and set up camp. We were really impressed by this camp. Great campsites, nicely spread out and a nice beach. That evening was warm, crystal clear skies but I thought I’d check the NOAA broadcast anyway. Forecast called for rain beginning late at night with a flood watch in effect. High winds and waves building to 5 to 7 feet. Amazing, because the forecast a day prior was uneventful and the wind reports have already been wrong up to this point. This would be just a taste of the reports we received in the following days to come.

And the rain did come, very hard with the high winds. Rain was relentless all day and into the following night. Needless to say, we were stuck in the tent and thank God we remembered our books! Thanks also to our new Hilleberg tent that performed flawlessly in the constant moisture and driving rain.

Day 5:

Departed Little Todd along the north coast toward Huginnin.

Note: Lake Superior had experienced an unusual warming trend this season with surface temps exceeding 70 degrees. We planned on enjoying this for some swims on island, but the gale that blew in the beginning of our trip really turned the lake over and it was back down in the 50’s again. When we departed Little Todd, we had some light surf coming into the beach left over form the last 24 hours of wind and the water felt ICE cold. The paddle down the coast was fog the entire way with less then 1/4 mile visibility. Air temps in our area was in the low 50’s. Roughly 3 miles east of Huginnin, we encountered a family of sea otters fishing just off the rocks. One of our favorite animals on the island, they’re curiosity with us is always funny. They chirped and bobbed their heads, watching as we passed. Two decided to follow us while one surfaced with a fish in his mouth.

So we planned on maybe staying at Grace, but I knew that would be a long shot based on the boaters that are usually there. And as we passed through the north gap approaching Grace, we did find the island occupied. The rest of our paddle took us to Long Point for camp. But, we experienced some interesting conditions from Rainbow Point and around the The Head. We had a southeast swell and a northwest wind at our back, and following seas. From the larger southeast swell colliding with our following seas and wind over wave. Needless to say, it felt quite strange under our hulls.

Camp overnight at Long Point.

Day 6:

Planned paddle,,Long Point to Malone Bay. But I wanted to spend some time exploring Little Boat Harbor and Fishermans Home Cove. I was always fascinated with the history of not only Isle Royale, but the commercial fishing operations there in the 1800’s. Specifically, the families of Elling Seglem and Sam Rude of Fishermans Home Cove. We paddled into Little Boat Harbor for lunch and then around the point to Fishermans, where the remainder of the evening would prove to be the highlight of this second circumnavigation of ours.

Pulling into the cove, we noticed the American flag flying proud and boats at both docks. A group of people were sitting on the east dock and we waived as we pulled in. Initially, we didn’t want to be too nosey, but I wanted to, at least, snap some shots and see the old fishing shacks. As we circled around, an elderly gentleman was sitting in a chair among two other individuals. A gruff and tough guy, he immediately greeted us and asked us where we came from. I explained that we paddled over from Long Point, but the day before we were at Little Todd Harbor. They seemed impressed with the distance covered and our conversation took on many different themes. About a half hour later, and generous offering of a few large bits of smoked salmon, this legendary fisherman identified himself as Mark Rude, son of Sam Rude.

Again, after reading about the history behind this fishermans cove, it was very cool to actually meet Mark and pick his mind to hear some old stories you’re unable to catch in a book. Mark asked us what the rest of our day had in store and where we planned to camp. I told him we were headed across the bay (Siskiwit) and probably camp over at Malone Bay. Mark immediately told Sarah and I that if we wanted, he would let us camp here and forget about paddling the extra distance. We quickly accepted his offer. Mark’s friends Ray and Bob motored into the cove for the night after a day of lake trout fishing. I was drying some clothes on the old fish net hangers and Ray looked over to me and said, “You guys live here?” I laughed and said, “I wish!” This was just the beginning of the comic relief Ray would display the rest of the night.

Over at the far dock near the sauna, Sarah started making some pasta and fresh saute zucchini. Ray shouted over from the fish house, “Hey, your eating with us. Don’t worry about making any dinner.” Sarah finished the dish so we could, at least contribute a little to the fabulous trout meal we were going to eat. I walked over the to other dock and fish house and watched Mark fillet out Ray and Bob’s days catch. They limited out with out much effort-- Bob even broke his old steel rod on one fish. He said it was it was a monster, and Ray laughed. Mark was quick with his knife and Ray brought over a new fillet knife to get Mark’s opinion. I believe the knife worked so well that Mark forgot to give it back to Ray......it wasn’t until we were sitting on the dock awhile later that Ray wittingly asked, “Hey Mark, so how’d that knife work out for you?” Mark retreated into the fish house and turned the knife back over to Ray.

Sitting on the dock enjoying the late afternoon sun, Ray asked Sarah and I, “Would you like a beer?” I reluctantly said, “No, that’s okay.” Ray looked back at us and responded with squinting eyes, "Do you drink beer." We said yes, and damn if I wasn't craving a cold one. It was very hot that day and probably still in the mid 80’s on the dock. Definitely hot for Isle Royale. I knew Sarah was feeling the same way. Ray retreated to his boat’s ice cold cooler and asked me, “You take it whole or light.” “Whole.....please,” I gratefully responded. Beer never tasted that good. I think I finished mine in about 3 minutes! Enjoying the beer, Mark brought out his old steel rod/reel.

At dinner, Ray and Bob made fresh salad, a potato boat on the grill and of course, deep fried lake trout fresh from Lake Superior. Sarah’s pasta dish was a nice accent. Mark's Captain Morgan rum wasn’t half bad either. We picked at the fried fish as Ray continued to work as chef. The chef ate last.

The remainder of the evening was spent in generous hospitality, great conversation and hilarious joke telling. And, a little more rum! After quite awhile, Sarah and I decided to retire for the evening. They asked us what time we would be paddling off and I told them not too early, but probably an 8am departure. I asked Ray what early was to him and he said, “I’ll probably be up by 7.”

The next morning was clear, warm and dead calm. NOAA called for winds to be increasing again out of the southwest, turning south by late afternoon to 25 knots, gusting to 30-35. Waves 5-7 feet. I knew Ray and Bob were probably leaving back to Houghton today so I thought I’d see if they knew about the weather. Walking out to the dock, Ray was in his boat and yelled over to me....”Hey Damon, I told you I would get up early. I got up at 6:59!” Ray had a very witty sense of humor about him and by far the friendiest boater we’ve ever met on the island. We began packing up our gear, making breakfast and talking to Mark one last time. I told Mark how grateful Sarah and I were that he allowed us to camp at Fishermans Home. We didn’t want to leave. We snapped a picture with everyone and placed the remaining gear in our kayaks. Ray went back to his boat and handed Sarah two more cold beers for our next evenings camp. Ray laughed and said, “You can drink them and talk about us.” Ray also included two bags of his savory homemade beef jerky. We really enjoyed that Ray! Thanks much.

Day 7:

Departing Fishermans Home, Mark, Ray and Bob stood on the shore and watched as we paddled out of sight down the cove and into Siskiwit Bay. Directly across the bay about 6 miles to Wright Island and then down the coast to Chippewa Harbor. We stopped at a beach on the way had lunch and found some greenstones....yes, greenstones, and no we didn’t take them. I can remember the park service saying something like, “There’s no greenstones on the island anymore.” Interesting...

Into Chippewa Harbor, another favorite spot for us, we snagged a shelter, grabbed our gear and I watched Sarah play cannon ball of the dock. Water was still quite cold! A quick swim and then to the top of the hill over looking the harbor to enjoy our beers Ray gave us back at FH. Mine went down in about two minutes. Could have been satisfied with about 3 more! We talked about the gents at Fisherman’s Home.

Day 8:

Weather report was dicey again, calling for 25 knots out of the south and waves up to 5 feet. Paddling out of the harbor, we started hitting the rollers that were building but nicely spaced and more like ocean swell. A cool morning paddling along the south shore, close to shore, intimate with the crashing waves on the sloping rock face. It’s fun paddling along just along the break bouncing around in the reflecting waves. Makes for an active paddle to makeup for the days of paddling through the mud of dead calm water.

Around to Caribou Island, we set up camp early so we could get some fishing in. Headed back out to Moskey Basin, visited the lighthouse and the old Edisen Fishery. Paddled in toward the basin and threw my line out for a troll, set the rod under my deck lines. Threw the bale open again to let some more line out and “WHAM,” glad I tethered my short emmrod to my boat! Initially, I thought the fish was rather small, that was until it took a few good runs. I told Sarah to raft up to me because it’s a real challenge fighting a salmon in a kayak with a 21 inch beam. A couple minutes later we had a nice coho landed. I would have loved to keep fishing, but this was our dinner and I we had a distance to paddle back to Caribou.

Back at the island I filleted the fish out on my boat, Sarah headed back up to camp where my spray deck, PFD and other gear was coated thoroughly with coho slime. There was a couple of otters occupying our camp, chirping and asking where our fresh catch was at!
They were so cool. I few minutes later, a canoe camper came up to our shelter and said there was a family of otters all over our boats. We filled our bellies with two big fillets each. Sarah sauteed some thai rice noodles and cabbage salad to complement the huge protein intake. It’s amazing how much better you feel after a really good, fresh meal.

That evening the wind came up and the temperature dropped. First real drop of the the entire trip. We shared a campfire down by the dock, with a father and son tandem crew, a pair of kayakers and one other solo canoe camper (sorry I failed to remember your names). First time the island was occupied with all paddlers!

Day 9:

A leisurely morning and a paddle back to Rock Harbor to complete our trip. Winds whipped up again out of the south, southwest. I knew it was going to make for another interesting trip back to Copper Harbor on the Queen. I think there was only a handful of sea sick travelers on the way back, compared to the 20 something on the way over.

Dinner at the Harbor Haus with some cold German beer....nice completion to the trip.
johnhens
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Re: The "Rudest" Isle Royale Circumnavigation, August 2010(l

Post by johnhens »

Damon, good for you getting another paddle around IR done!!! I am jealous.
Nice that you got to meet the folks at Fishermans Home!!!

Someone else posted about catching coho near Rolf's place, what were you throwing?
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Re: The "Rudest" Isle Royale Circumnavigation, August 2010(l

Post by Ingo »

Sounds like a special trip! Thanks for the report.
22: BI-PC-BI-RH, 21: RH-ML-DF-MB-DF, 18: MC-PC-BI-DB-RH-DF, 17: WI-IM-SB-FL-WC, 16: RH-CI-TI-RH, 14: BI-ML-CI-CH-MB, 13: RH-PI, 12: MC-CB-HL-TH, 11: WC-HC-WC, 09: MC-BI-DN-RH, 05: MI-CI-MB-DF-RH-TM-RH, 02: MC-LR-WL-CH, 01: BI-DB-RH, 79: worked RH
Damon S
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Re: The "Rudest" Isle Royale Circumnavigation, August 2010(l

Post by Damon S »

John,

I have an assortment of deep diving rapalas and storm lures that I use for trolling, and hot and tots occasionally. My set up now for trolling is pretty nice, very short "EMMROD," that I can shoot right off my deck and it doesnt interfere with my paddling. The rods are pretty nice, don't know if you have experience with them but you should check them out.

I'll typically run at least 50 to 100 feet or more of line out to get the lure down deep.
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Re: The "Rudest" Isle Royale Circumnavigation, August 2010(l

Post by johnhens »

Damon S wrote:John,

I have an assortment of deep diving rapalas and storm lures that I use for trolling, and hot and tots occasionally. My set up now for trolling is pretty nice, very short "EMMROD," that I can shoot right off my deck and it doesnt interfere with my paddling. The rods are pretty nice, don't know if you have experience with them but you should check them out.

I'll typically run at least 50 to 100 feet or more of line out to get the lure down deep.
Damon,
A guy I know from Backpacker did a trip in Alaska. He used an EMMROD up there and did well with it. I can see the advantage of it for trolling. I have tried trolling with a 7' rod, does not work well. I used a rainbow hot and tot as a deep diver in Tobin. We could 'see' the fish on the bottom and that was the only lure I had for getting deep. It caught dinner that day! We have had good luck with K-O Wobblers and Little Cleos in the Spring. Tricia has caught lakers in Siskiwit on one of her "magic" lures (refers to most of the lures she buys from the bargain bins), a blue and silver deep diver.
Where did you get the EMMROD?
Damon S
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Re: The "Rudest" Isle Royale Circumnavigation, August 2010(l

Post by Damon S »

I fished up at Glen Arbor/Lake Michigan with some guys up there that were using them. Definitely capable of catching big salmon on a small package.

I had Sarah bring them into the kayak shop she was working for at the time (Riverside Kayak Connection) and I believe they still have some left. Otherwise, I'm sure there's some decent online sources.

I have the mountaineering version/rod and love it. Perfect for kayaking. I just tether it to my deck line and wedge it under some bungies and off I go.
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