Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

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Vandy
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Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

Post by Vandy »

Original Itinerary:
June 25 – Windigo to Washington Creek CG (and back) - .3
Washington Creek CG to Greenstone Ridge Junction (and back) - .3
Windigo to Feldtman Lake CG – 8.5
Feldtman Lake CG to Rainbow Cove (and back) - .8
Total Miles – 11.3

June 26 - Feldtman Lake CG to Feldtman Tower – 4.8
Feldtman Tower to Siskiwit Bay CG – 5.5
Total Miles – 10.3

June 27- Siskiwit Bay CG to Island Mine CG – 4.4
Island Mine CG to Desor South CG – 5.5
Total Miles – 9.9

June 28 - Desor South CG to Ishpeming Point – 3.8
Ishpeming Point to Hatchet Lake CG – 4.3
Hatchet Lake CG to Todd Harbor CG – 3.9
Total Miles – 12.0

June 29 - Todd Harbor CG to McCargoe Cove CG – 6.7
Total Miles – 6.7

June 30 - McCargoe Cove CG to Lane Cove CG – 13
Total Miles – 13

July 1 - Lane Cove CG to Rock Harbor – 6.9
Total Miles – 6.9

Grand Total Miles – 70.1


Actual Itinerary:

June 25 – Windigo to Washington Creek CG (and back) - .3
Washington Creek CG to Greenstone Ridge Junction (and back) - .3
Windigo to Feldtman Lake CG – 8.5
Feldtman Lake CG to Rainbow Cove (and back) - .8
Total Miles – 11.3

June 26 - Feldtman Lake CG to Feldtman Tower – 4.8
Feldtman Tower to Siskiwit Bay CG – 5.5
Siskiwit Bay CG to Island Mine CG – 4.4
Total Miles – 14.7

June 27- Island Mine CG to Desor South CG – 5.5
Desor South CG to Ishpeming Point – 3.8
Ishpeming Point to Hatchet Lake CG – 4.3
Hatchet Lake CG to Todd Harbor CG – 3.9
Total Miles – 17.5

June 28 - Todd Harbor CG to McCargoe Cove CG – 6.7
McCargoe Cove CG to Greenstone Ridge Junction – 2.1
Greenstone Ridge Junction to Daisy Farm CG – 6.1
Total Miles – 14.9

June 29 - Daisy Farm CG to 3-Mile CG dock – 4.4
3-Mile CG dock to Suzy’s Cave Junction - .9
Suzy’s Cave Junction trail to Tobin Harbor Trail - .2
Tobin Harbor Trail to Rock Harbor – 1.8
Total Miles – 7.3

June 30 - Stoll Trail (figure eight) – 4.2
Total Miles – 4.2

Grand Total Miles: 69.9


June 25 - Caught flights to Hancock, MI from Raleigh, NC
Charlie from Copper Country Limo met me at the airport for the 10 min ride to the AmericInn in Calumet. He indicated that earlier in the week there were no flights in out due to a major storm followed by fog. My pre-shipped box of gear was waiting for me in my room. I walked next door to Pat’s Foods for some last minute items that wouldn’t ship well (bagels, Snickers, Milky Ways). I walked to Jim’s pizza and Family restaurant in downtown Calumet. I had the Friday special – Fish Fry. Rain is forecast for Monday, Thursday, and Friday.

June 26 - The fire alarm went off at the motel around 7:20am, and had to be evacuated. Once we were let back in I packed up my backpack, and left a bag with the motel for my return. Charlie picked me up for the short ride to the airport. I arrived at 8:30am for my 10am flight.

The seaplane pilot came out around 9:30am and asked if I was the guy going to Windigo. Upon indicating that I was, he said to follow him. He pointed outside and said the plane is that way and he’d be there in a minute. The flight was uneventful, but hazy so I couldn’t get any pictures. Upon landing, I got out and he handed me my pack and said “alright”. I said rain was forecast for the Friday pick-up and who should I coordinate with in Rock Harbor to confirm my retrieval. He said to check with Kim at the Lodge.

I dropped my gear at the covered picnic area by the dock and poked around a bit. I walked down to Washington Creek CG, then on to the Greenstone Ridge trail junction. Ranger Cindy issued me my permit and gave me my LNT talk (no mention of hanging food). She indicated there were 510 moose and 15 wolves.
I went to the store and purchased a final ‘good’ meal, and white gas for my stove.

I hit the Feldtman trail at approx. 11:45am and arrived into the campground around 2:55pm. I didn’t experience any blowdown until just past the intersection with Gracie Creek. I had to crawl under on my hands and knees. I saw 9 people on the trail coming from the opposite direction (1 group of 5, 2 groups of 2). The campground is empty upon arrival, and I select site #2 overlooking the water. Mosquitoes are bad as I am setting up. I have to go down by group site 5 to get at the water for filtering. Site 2 water access is enclosed by thick grass/algae stuff.

After setting up camp and filtering water I wander down to Rainbow Cove. It wasn’t really what I was expecting. I was expecting the rocks to be more green. Although, in hindsight the copper color they are does make sense. It was hazy and the lighthouse was barely visible.

Back at camp I spent a lot of time in my tent doing crosswords due to the skeeters. At one point I counted 33 of the suckers trying to get at me. I can hear the Lake Superior waves lapping at the shore .8 miles away. I fixed dinner amongst the skeeters around 6:45pm (Austintaceous Tortilla Soup from Packit Gourmet – very tasty). I ate in the tent. At 7:45pm I am still the only one at the CG (and would be that night). I turned in around 9:50pm to the drone of the skeeters.

- I hiked with poles for the first time. They helped quite a bit. My pace was good, steady but not hurried
– A toenail on my left foot bled – no blisters

June 26 - Awoke around 5:00am and lay in my bag until around 5:45am. I didn’t sleep well (too hot, too cold, couldn’t get comfortable). It got down to 58 degrees.
I broke down camp while eating my breakfast (kashi cereal with protein powder, poptart, coffee). A nice breeze kept the skeeters at bay.

I was on the trail around 7:10am. The blowdown is worse than yesterday, but not horrible. I crossed over a ridge after 45 minutes of hiking and saw the fire tower in the distance. 50 minutes later I see it again, and it is much closer. I reach it around 8:55am. I climb the tower to check cell service and eat a snack. I got 2 bars, but the text wouldn’t go through. I was back on the trail at 9:15am. There are ant hills along the trail that look straight out of the Indiana Jones movie. The bugs are worse today, but tolerable.

I arrive into Siskiwit Bay CG at 11:00am. There is a group of 8 girls and their two counselors from Birch Tree Camp in WI eating their breakfast on the dock. Camp rules require them to boil all their water, so they had the stove going the entire 3 hours I was with them. The group is headed to Island Mine for the night. I decide to do the same since I made such good time on the trail. I left Siskiwit around 1:50pm ahead of the group. I see a mama moose and her 2 babies shortly after I cross the bridge over the Big Siskiwit inlet. The 4.4 mile trek to Island Mine is nice the first part as it follows the shore. There is a section where it looks like the trail goes left into the woods, but it really goes to the right toward the beach. Due to all the rain they’ve gotten, the creek was flowing pretty well, and I had to do a well placed jump to stay dry since there isn’t a bridge. Once the trail leaves the shore it turns into a killer. Up, up, up, then down, down until arriving into Island Mine on an uphill as you cross over the water source.

I arrive into Island Mine around 3:25pm; the water source looks to be flowing pretty steady. I selected site 1 at the top of the hill. I set up camp and filter water. Then I go check out the CG. There is a group of 5 boys at group site 1. They are on day 9 of a 10 day trek. They are due into Windigo in the morning for a trip on the Voyageur to Rock Harbor. Skeeters in Island Mine are not nearly as bad as they were at Feldtman (knock on wood).

At this point I am thinking my destination for the next night will be Hatchet Lake CG. I figured if it is supposed to rain, I’d rather walk in it than lay around in the tent.

I fixed dinner around 5:45pm (chicken and dumplings from Packit Gourmet with extra foil pouch chicken added – very tasty). After eating I went and asked the kids how the trail was to Hatchet CG. They indicated it was some up & down, some blowdown, nothing too bad. The girls group finally arrived into the CG around 7pm. I’m betting they wished they’d left Siskiwit earlier (remember they have to boil all their water). A couple of rolled ankles slowed them down. I turned in around 9:55pm (I couldn’t see the crosswords any longer).

June 27 - I got up around 5:30am (65 degrees). I slept much better last night. It got windy in the middle of the night (this is supposed to be a rain day). I break down camp while eating breakfast (kashi cereal with protein powder, poptart, coffee).

I was on the trail around 6:55am. No rain yet. The Greenstone Ridge trail to Desor South CG was decent, and I arrived at the CG around 8:50am. I walked to the CG from the junction to check it out. I am glad I am not staying there. The sites are up above the lake, and the sites don’t seem all that nice. Shortly after leaving the CG, I look up to see a young bull moose standing in the middle of the trail. I wait for him to move as I take pics of him. I continue on to Ishpeming tower, and it begins to drizzle around 10am. I arrive at the tower around 10:15am. I was planning to rest here for awhile. The skeeters are horrific!! I check cell service, and get 2 bars again, but still can’t get a text to go. While at the tower, I fuel up on 2 protein bars. I also check my feet for hot spots. I add duct tape to both big toes. I put on my rain coat, but opt to keep the pants in the pack (big mistake).

I left the tower around 10:40am. Shortly after that I come across a lone female hiker going in the opposite direction toward Windigo. She had left Hatchet Lake CG. She suggests I push on to Todd Harbor. Shortly after we depart ways I come upon another female solo hiker. She is heading to Desor South from Todd Harbor. There is quite a bit of blowdown on the Greenstone Ridge trail between the Ishpeming Tower and Hatchet Lake CG junction. It is also quite overgrown. You can tell not many people have been on it yet. I stopped to wring out my socks and boot liners from all the undergrowth being wet. The duct tape did not survive the moisture. I arrived at Hatchet Lake CG around 12:10pm and dropped my pack at the junction post (it has stopped drizzling). I hike the .2 miles to the CG to check it out while I am there. Back at the post, I wring out my socks and boot liners, again. I push off for Todd Harbor around 12:30pm.

I arrived into Todd Harbor around 1:45pm, and snagged the shelter! I go to the dock and chat with 4 fisherman. They are having some boat issues, but fix it shortly after I arrive. I head back to the shelter, and try to clean up a bit. It started to sprinkle while I was filtering water. Lake Superior felt good on my barking dogs (I developed a blister on my left big toe). It starts to rain harder, and I am glad I pushed on to get to the shelter. I finally hear a loon cry out.

My new plan for the next day is to try to get to Daisy Farm CG.

I am alone at Todd Harbor until around 4pm. Justin, Jason and Tim from Grand Rapids arrived from Desor North, and I offer to share the shelter with them since the weather is poor (they later tell me they forgot their rain fly). They all have blisters up the wazoo. They cook their dinner a short time later, filter some water, and climb into their sleeping bags for the night. I cooked dinner around 5:30pm (chicken and dumplings from Packit Gourmet with extra foil pouch chicken added since it was another long day). Around 6:30pm a thunderstorm and downpour come through with a cold wind (temp gauge says 55 degrees, but I can see my breath!) A short time later, a solo hiker comes into the campground. She is in a tent. UGH! Around 7:30pm yet another thunderstorm and downpour. It is still raining at 9:30pm when I turn in (my bag is toasty warm, and I am out like a light).

June 28 - I awake around 5am like clockwork, and lay in my bag until around 6:15 since I’m sharing the shelter. It starts raining around 6am (not happy). I eat breakfast as I pack up (oatmeal, poptart, coffee). It seems to have quit raining. I put moleskin over my blister and my one toenail, and duct tape my two big toes and the toenail.

It was Ranger Cindy who showed up last night. She said she was pretty soaked, and was heading toward Desor South.

I was on the trail around 7:50am. It started to drizzle around 8am, nothing as bad as last night. I had my whole rain suit on today. No drenched feet for me, although my socks didn’t dry out from yesterday. I made good time on the trail until I got above tree line. The up and down on wet rocks slowed me down since I was taking extra precaution not to fall. I ran into a group of 4 head to Desor North approximately 1 mile from McCargoe Cove CG.

Arrived into McCargoe Cove CG around 10:10am. There was a couple on the dock. They had stayed at Lane Cove CG (reported lots of blowdown) and E Chickenbone prior to here. They were taking a layover day since the guy tweaked his knee. They went to Appalachian State which is in NC (which is where I now live). After I left they’d be the only ones left at the CG until everyone I passed (it seemed) arrived later. I wrung out my socks and boot liners again, removed my rain jacket, and set everything in the sun (yes it was out again) to dry some. I ate some RAM, a protein bar and some peanut butter, and then filtered water for the next leg of my trek.

I was on the trail by 11:40am, and reached the Greenstone Ridge trail junction at 12:25pm. I took a mini break, and removed my rain pants. Approx 20 minutes later, after climbing to the ridge, I ran into a father and son hanging out at an overlook for a break (they were headed to McCargoe from Daisy). The Greenstone trail to the Daisy junction is slow going on the rocks, in the mud, and the up & down, up & down. I run into a group of 10-12 girls eating a snack on a bluff. They are headed to McCargoe from Daisy. I arrived at the Daisy Farm trail junction at 2:15pm. I run into a mixed group of 10 people (I’m guessing from a church group) heading to W Chickenbone from Daisy. I reached Daisy Farm CG at 3:05pm. Bugs on the trail were minor today.

I took shelter #9, then went to the dock to filter water and rinse some grime off. The shelter was filthy. It seemed like it hadn’t been swept out in forever. I went back to the shelter and changed into my ‘camp clothes’ and cleaned up.

My feet hurt as bad this day as at any point in the trip. Again, the cold water of Lake Superior felt wonderful on them. Still only one blister though (I did not pop it). I am having issues with a couple of toenails though.

I spoke to a husband and wife on the dock who had been on the island since the 18th of June doing a circumnavigation of the island in a canoe he built. They come every year. They live in Houghton, but had not heard of the forum. I suggested they check it out.

Started dinner around 6pm. I had ‘The big easy’ gumbo from Packit Gourmet – Delicious (maybe the best one so far). I returned to the dock and ran into 3 biologists who were on the island to look for bugs (specifically a certain kind of butterfly). One of them graduated from Western Michigan in 1991 (a year after me). I turned in around 9:45pm, and was out quickly, again.

June 29 - I awoke around 5:30am (again) to the coldest morning (48 degrees). I get out of my bag around 5:50am to get some sunrise pics. The sun made an appearance at 6:05am (I froze my heiny off in between). I return to the shelter and get into my bag to warm up. I pack up while eating breakfast (poptarts, oatmeal, coffee).

The blister on my toe seems to be gone this morning. I put moleskin on the one toenail, and wrap the big toes in duct tape. I broke out the dry socks for the final trek to Rock Harbor. They feel so much better than the wet ones from the last 2 days. I am on the Rock Harbor trail by 8am.

At the boardwalk right after the jut inland, I saw still damp wolf prints on the 1st board (I am sure I was being watched as I took a pic). Shortly after the boardwalk, I see the Ranger coming down the channel. As I took my eye off the trail down I went on a wet rock. I had finally fallen. Soon, I come across fresh wolf scat. So fresh, I can still smell it. I arrived at the Franklin trail junction post at 9:30am, and to the 3-mile dock at 9:37am.

I sat on the dock and ate some RAM (raisins, almonds, M&Ms) and drank some Gatorade. There was a little kid with a fishing pole. He dropped in the lake. I let him use my hiking pole to retrieve it. I left 3-mile dock at 9:50am, and arrived at Suzy’s Cave junction at 10:12am. I took the trail up to the Tobin Harbor Trail, and arrived into Rock Harbor at 10:55am.

I went to the seaplane dock. No plane, but did see an NPS employee who said he didn’t think any flights were scheduled for that day. I made my way to the Lodge and asked them to leave a message with the pilot about a 9am pickup for the next day. I stopped at the store and poked around on my way to the CG. Finally made my way to the CG and chose shelter #1. Unpacked, and put my boots and liners in the sun to dry out.

I got my dirty laundry gathered up and went back to the store for a token. While the laundry was doing its thing I took my 5-minute $8.50 ($6 water, $2.50 towel/soap) shower. I went back to the shelter and changed into clean clothes and ate some food. Around 1:30pm I went in search of a phone and to explore around the lodge. $1.95/minute to use the satellite phone – I passed. I sat in the sun (it is chilly in Rock Harbor. I have on all my layers) by the guest lounge and did crosswords for a couple of hours (I think I dozed off at one point). I checked in with the Lodge and confirmed a 1pm seaplane pickup for the next day.

I ate dinner at the snack bar. An entire 12-inch pizza (pepperoni & mushroom) plus 3 Labatts ($5.25 each) - $30 altogether.

There was an evening program about paddling that was scheduled for 8pm. I slipped into my sleeping back and did crosswords while waiting for the program. The program only lasted about 15 minutes, but was fairly interesting. Back at the shelter, it feels as cold as it has been. I had to dig out my fleece hat and gloves while I did crosswords until about 10pm. I was out like a light, again.

June 30 - I awoke around 5:30am (shocking). I laid there for a few minutes before deciding there is no time like the present. I got up at 5:50am, got dressed, grabbed a poptart and protein bar, and headed to Scoville Point. Arrived at Scoville Point at 6:45a. I took some pictures along the way; I saw one other person, but they did not see me (I was behind them). I was back to Rock Harbor by 7:30am. I saw 2 more people on the trip back, one was trail running.

I got back to the shelter, made some coffee and at my last poptart. I took my fuel bottle to the store to empty it for the flight. Seems like I only used about 5 oz of fuel the whole week. I could have brought way less, using up less space and less weight…and still used 2x as much as I did. I cleared out of the shelter by 8:50am.

I went to the store to purchase some souvenirs. I got 2 t-shirts (1 for my wife), a shot glass, a sticker, and a magnet. I checked in with the visitor center to inform them of my itinerary changes. An NPS employee tracked me down and informed me to be at the seaplane dock at 12:30pm instead of 1pm.

I ran into the guys I shared the Todd Harbor shelter with. They made it to McCargoe on Tuesday. Then, Tim and Justin went to Daisy via the Greenstone while Jason met them there via Moskey. Jason said the Moskey route had been cleared of 95% of the blowdown, and there was sawdust everywhere.

The Queen IV arrived around 11:25am to discharge her passengers. It looked like a good boatload of people.

I headed to the seaplane dock at 12pm. The plane arrived at 1:17pm. The pilot indicated the prior group was 45 minutes late, and thus he was late to get us. I was with one other passenger. The flight was uneventful and clearer than the ride on Saturday and I was able to get a couple of pictures of the lodge and island.

Somehow Charlie from Copper Country Limo knew I was coming in early, and drove me to AmericInn in Calumet. I called my wife to let her know I was back on the mainland. It was great to hear her voice. I called the airline to change my flight to Friday morning from Saturday morning (they raked me over the coals in fees). I packed up my gear, and filled out a shipping label at Fedex.com. The manager at AmericInn offered to drop it off for me. I ate dinner at Michigan Café & Red Jacket Brewery – Fish and chips were delicious.

July 1 - I was picked up at the AmericInn at 5am for my 6am flight out of Hancock airport. TSA was funny. They would check several IDs then ask you to please wait. They would go man the metal detector for the people who’s IDs were checked…then repeat. The flights home to Raleigh, NC were uneventful.

Things I brought that I did not use:

Leatherman
Headnet
Compass
Plastic ‘sink’
Camera tripod
Micro Towel
Extra Batteries
Lighter

Lessons Learned:

Leave the bagels at home; just bring the ‘JIF to go’
Bring more protein bars, Gatorade mix, and bug spray
Bring less RAM (raisins, almonds, M&Ms)
I did not like the sock liners; they caused the socks to slide into my boots
The hiking poles were excellent. Saved me from falling, twisting ankles, etc., many times
Less fuel could have been brought
My DriDucks rain suit kept me bone dry

I highly recommend the AmericInn in Calumet (906-337-6463).
The manager (Diane) returned my emails, accepted my pre-shipped package of gear, and held it for me until my arrival. The price ($85/night) comes with a decent breakfast selection. Diane also dropped off my package of gear for shipment home. There is also a PC available to print out the Fedex shipping label.
Last edited by Vandy on Sat Jul 09, 2011 10:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

Post by johnhens »

Thanks for a detailed TR. Sounds like a relaxing trip.
I have never tried Packit Gourmet, you seem to be a fan.
Did you cut your toenails before going, were they hitting the boot tip?
The cold lake does feel good after a day of hiking!!!
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Re: Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

Post by Vandy »

This was my first time with Packit Gourmet based on suggestions from the forum. I would get them again.
I trimmed my nails a week prior to going. But, yes, I think that one pesky nail was hitting the boot tip.
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Re: Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

Post by egraetze »

Thanks for your trip report. Very helpful given we are traveling mostly the same route in 2 weeks. What type of stove are you using with so little fuel used? I may still opt for 2 bottles since there will be 3 of us.
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Re: Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

Post by Vandy »

I have an MSR Whisperlite International. I boiled .5 liter of water for breakfast and again for dinner. Nine times altogether, given that I ate dinner at the Rock Harbor snack bar Wednesday night.
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Re: Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

Post by egraetze »

Thanks. I think I will still take 2 bottles, or maybe one and a half of white gas for the 3 of us. I do recall I took too much fuel the last time in the 80s on the island, but it was just for 2 of us.
Would you characterize the Todd Harbor to McCargoe Cove leg as the toughest on your route? You had some pretty long legs on your route.
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Re: Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

Post by Vandy »

Todd Harbor to McCargoe wasn't too bad with the exception of where the rocks begin about 2 miles from McCargoe. The Greenstone from the E Chickenbone trail junction to the Daisy Farm trail junction seems like the most challenging. It is a lot of up and down on the rocks, plus it was the tail end of a long day. The last mile of the Island Mine trail into the CG is tough, too.
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Re: Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

Post by egraetze »

I do recall that stretch of the Greenstone as that was the end of a long hot day backpacking from Lane Cove to East Chickenbone. Thanks for the information on the Todd Harbor to McCargoe Cove leg. Should not be too much of a problem as that will be a short day for us. We are planning on:
Feldtmann Lake, night 1
Siskiwit Bay, night 2
Lake Desor, night 3
Todd Harbor, night 4
McCargoe Cove, night 5
Moskey Basin, night 6
3 Mile or Rock Harbor, night 7

I've previously been on the Greenstone Ridge stretching from Mount Franklin to Windigo over the course of 2 trips and want to see some different scenery.
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Re: Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

Post by Vandy »

You'll enjoy it. It is a fantastic route. Challenging, but not maniacal.
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Re: Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

Post by HexFletch »

Great trip report, Vandy! I didn't do the math but I'm guessing based on times and distances that you move at more than a 3.0 mph pace. We found that difficult on our recent trip given the deadfall. Although we normally wouldn't hope for more than a 2.6-2.8 mph pace, we were significantly slower in some spots (think we were a bit overweighted with our packs too - the shame :oops: ). Pretty impressed with your pace though!

Glad to see you got better seaplane information than we did. We had some trouble catching our seaplane off the island and even more trouble getting information about it. Of course, it was early season so perhaps some of the kinks have been worked out since.

Love the trip report - it's given me some ideas of spots I'd like to hit in the future. Thanks for sharing.
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Re: Windigo to Rock Harbor, June 25-June 30, 2011

Post by Vandy »

HexFletch, I didn't find myself pushing the pace at all. I just tried to maintain a normal walking pace. After reading about average paces through various trip reports, I started out with a 2.0 mph expectation. After the first day, I could do a very good job of predicting how long it was going to take me to do my stretches of hiking. For the most part, I think it was just under 3.0 mph. I did 4.2 to 4.4 miles in 1:35 two different times.

Also, after reading your experience with the seaplane pilot I wanted to be sure of who to speak with in Rock Harbor. So, thank you for documenting it in your report. The pilot certainly isn't the most personable guy you'll encounter is he?
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