Bad luck turned into good luck-a TR of my first visit to IR

[sgerbs]

Day 1 (6/8) - After having driven up to Grand Portage from the Chicago area and staying at Ryden's the night before we were up and moving to get ourselves to the boat. Unfortunately, we were running a little late and actually got to the boat at 7:15; we were the last ones there. They loaded our gear, and we loaded and off we went. It was a full boat - not a seat to be spared. We left the "marina" and were on our way to Windigo. Once we left the cover of the marina, it became incredibly choppy. Thankfully, I had taken a dramamine tablet before we left and we got a window seat in the upper cabin of the VII. It was a very bumpy ride and many people threw-up. We would later find out as we were approaching Windigo that the waves were 5-7 feet and only getting worse. Our plan was originally to take the VII to McCargoe Cove to stay there our first night, but they told us they were not making the trip today. We would have to get up at 4:30am to leave at 5:30am the next morning. We were a little bummed with the bad luck, but understood that things like this happen. We staked out a shelter at Washington Creek and then proceeded to spend the day talking with the rangers and hiking the nature trail and other areas around Windigo. We fell asleep to rain falling on the shelter and a cool breeze coming in from Washington Harbor.

Day 2 - Having to get up at 4:30am was not my idea of fun, but it was what we had to do to make the boat at 5:30. This is where our bad luck turned into good luck. After getting some stuff packed up, my wife walked from our shelter (#6) to the outhouse. As I was standing by the screen looking out over Washington Creek I heard a loud noise coming and thought it was my wife - obviously not the case. A mother moose and her two calves ran right beside our shelter and down into Washington Creek and through to the other side. It was a pretty sweet experience and my wife made it back in time to see them run up the bank on the other side. We were now happy to be up at 4:30am. As we got our gear together we walked towards the dock and out of the brush down by Washington Harbor came another moose with her one calf. She stood in the road looking at us when Ranger Sean came riding on his golf cart from the other direction. The moose was spooked and so were we because there was no where for her to go and we did not want her coming in our direction. After a minute the golf cart went by on a different road and the moose and her calf made their way up the hill and out of sight. Five moose in 15 minutes, not too bad. We got on the boat and headed out to McCargoe Cove on incredibly calm water. We slept most of the way there and woke up as they were pulling into the cove. We docked, got our gear and the VII was off for Rock Harbor as we headed for W. Chickenbone for our second nights stay. About ¼ of a mile down the trail from the dock, I took off my pack so that I could remove my fleece. As I was removing my fleece, my wife says “Shawn, look behind you.” There on the trail no more than 20 feet away was a WOLF! It looked at us for 2 seconds and then started to make its way up the trail back to McCargoe Cove. Obviously, we were excited and awed. The wolf walked another 30 feet and perched on a rock on the hill and began to howl. It was incredible. At that point I decided to get out my camera to take a picture, but after the wolf howled a second time another wolf responded and was really close. We decided to get moving quickly on down to W. Chickenbone. The interaction was awesome and we wanted to keep it that way, so no picture. We got down to W. Chickenbone and picked campsite #1 right on the water, set up our gear and just lounged around for the day. There were a few fellas paddling kayaks who caught some Pike and offered us one for dinner. They ended up staying at W. Chickenbone as well, and we had dinner with them and another couple who were at the campsite that left their stove at home. The kayakers had an extra stove and lent it to the couple telling them to mail it back after their trip. Gotta love the hiking community. While we were eating dinner a squirrel decided to chew through my wife's pack, even though it was open and had no food what-so-ever. It was a bit frustrating, but after the day we had we really couldn't complain. We got to see 5 moose, a wolf, some otters, lots of birds and ate some fresh fish. All in all, our luck had gone from slightly bad to really good and it would not have happened if the boat was not delayed.

Day 3 – We awoke on Wednesday morning to rain on our tent. It was only a light rain, but packing up your gear in any rain isn't fun. We got our stuff together quickly, said goodbye to the kayakers and were on our way to Hatchet Lake. The hike was fairly uneventful just because we were not able to see anything with the clouds and fog. They obscured our view from the Greenstone. After what seemed like a long hike we finally came to the post that marked the Hatchet Lake trail. We hiked down the ridge in now sunny weather to the campground and found another good spot. We set up camp, and hung up our wet gear and then went down to the water to hang out. It was absolutely beautiful. We spent the rest of the day down by the water, hanging out. We later met a father-son combo from the twin cities and played some cards with them until it became dark. Hatchet Lake was my favorite place to stay while on this trip.

Day 4 – We awoke to a lot of birds singing and the sun shining. We packed up our gear and were on the trail. The hike to S. Lake Desor was pretty nice. There were some bugs along the trail, but overall it was a pretty pleasant hike if you did not stand still too long. We ate lunch at Ishpeming Point – where the bugs were pretty thick. Then we hiked the rest of the way to S. Lake Desor. We went swimming in the cold water and washed up a bit. We spent the evening playing more cards with the father-son combo and then went down to the water to watch the sunset over the lake. We fell asleep that night to a Barred Owl calling from across the lake.

Day 5 – We got up early this morning because we were making the trek from S. Lake Desor to Washington Creek and I did not feel like spending all day in the heat of the sun. We got moving early and made it to the Island Mine turn off fairly early and continued on for a ways before eating lunch. After that we hiked the rest of the way down the Greenstone to the Windigo sign post area. We were really happy to be there after a long day hiking in warmer weather. We took shelter #6 again and then just relaxed on Washington Creek before eventually eating dinner at the store and talking with the folks are running the store this summer.

Day 6 – We slept in this morning and man did it feel nice. After heading to the ranger station to talk with them for a while (and so my wife could make notes on the wild flowers), we went back to our shelter and got our hiking gear together so that we could take a day hike around Huginnin Cove. We hiked the longer leg first, going by the Wendigo Mine and log cabin and then coming to Lake Superior. We ate our lunch on a rock group overlooking the water and it was beautiful. We continued on along the lake and met up with a guy name Erik who had finished the Minong the day before. We stopped at the Huginnin Cove campground to check it out (pretty nice) and then went back to Washington Creek where we eventually met up with the father-son combo and played some more cards before going to bed.

Day 7 – Woke up, got packed up and headed down to the dock to wait for the VII. Ranger Sean gave a talk on the moose ticks before we boarded the VII and set off for the mainland. The rest of the day was spent driving back to the Chicagoland area.

This was my first trip to IR and an incredible trip at that. Thank you to all of you who shared information, insights and wisdom. My wife and I had a great trip and were able to see some really cool things. We know how lucky we were to see a wolf and the moose and it made our trip that much more special. Someday I hope to be back on IR checking out the east end.

-Shawn

[fonixmunkee]

Your Trip Report sums up probably some of the best parts of IR, without a doubt. Glad you got to see a moose, and VERY glad you got to see a wolf, what an amazing experience! And not only to hear it howl, but to *see* it too. Simply amazing! I've been to IR 8 or 9 times and have yet to see a wolf, so consider yourself fortunate!

Campsite #1 at W. Chickenbone is indeed the best site at the camp ground. It's also along the moose super highway down to the water's edge of Chickenbone...I've stayed at that site twice and both times have had moose pass within feet of our tents...right through the campsite.

Regarding the kindness of hikers, that is no doubt the first NOR the last time that someone will be that helpful at IR. It's like a brotherhood out there, and you got to see that first-hand.

I agree with you that Lake Hatchet is one of the most beautiful place on IR. We were there a week ago and I couldn't believe how quiet it was...my ears were ringing because it was so deafening quiet. And the loons in the middle of the night were so cool-sounding.

Congrats on your first trip to IR, I'm sure you'll be back.

[philranger]

What a great TR. That hike from Desor to Windigo is a real grunt. You're a lucky camper to see the wolves and moose. Awesome.

[Isle Royale Rob]

What a great report! Isle Royale is a special place and you seemed to have run into some of the things that make it so!

Now you're hooked!!!

Can't wait til i get there in 16Days 19Hours & 50 Minutes!!!!!!!!

[upnorthjeeper]

Nice, report... thanks for sharing!

[Tom]

Like Fonix said - Your first trip, and you NAILED everything we love about IR... You hit the trifecta!
**DISCLAIMER** Not all trips will be as amazing as SGERBS.

**RECLAIMER** Many are!

You got to see Moose (everyone hopes to, a few leave disappointed); you got to see a wolf (took me ten years!); you enjoyed the hospitality of the Isle. Excellent TR. I look forward to your second!