Trip Report - Rock Harbor Minong/ Windigo / Greenstone Loop

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PlowHorse
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Trip Report - Rock Harbor Minong/ Windigo / Greenstone Loop

Post by PlowHorse »

Well - I did it. This Trip Report is from August 14, 2009 to August 22, 2009.

A hard core trek where I did 90 miles backpacking in 7 days. And 3 of days it was raining. In advance, to the scenic/casual hikers - good for you - but this was a trip for me to catch some views, log some miles, and see the island. Some background data - I am 44, in pretty good shape, weight 225, and had a pack weight of 44 lbs. Planned no resupply so carried everything I needed for 8 days.

Day 1 - Arrive Rock Harbor from Copper Harbor. Stayed at King Copper Hotel - $85 with the water view - totally great. walked over and got on the very. Uneventful 3.5 hour crossing - friendly crew. Arrived around 11:30am - boring and un-inspiring talking on LNT (necessary of course - but really) - and then hit the trail at 12:15pm. Traveled 3 Mile Trail and then on into Daisy Farm. Got there about 3pm. No problem with getting a shelter and it is a good 7.9 mile warm up to adjust your pack - find hot spots in your boots - and get adjusted. The Three Mile Trail is hard - best term I heard to describe it is a 'real potato field' - the trail from Three Mile to Daisy is casual - pack a sack lunch and your walkman, you do tougher treks at lunch.

Day 2 - Woke up to a downpour, not showers - but a downpour. Left at 9am for McCargoe. If I had held out 1 hour more the rain stopped and then became lighter and intermittent at 10am - but such is the life of predicting weather as a backpacker. Great trail from Daisy up to the E. Chickenbone Junction. Some elevation change, long board walks, and a bit overgrown (filling my boots with water) - but nice trail. From the Jct - walk straight downhill into McCargoe. Got there at Noon (8.2 miles) - emptied my boots of water, changed socks, had a bite - and then figured what the heck might as well push on to Todd ahead of schedule. My original plan was to stop in McCargoe. The trek to Todd is up hill to the Ridge - Rock Hop (nice views) - walk down the ridge and then cake walk into the campground. So total day was about 14.9 miles. I was tired - but not crushed (body wise). 7 hours total to do the hike, including the stops.

Day 3 - Todd Harbor to N. Desor. 12.7 miles. This one is misleading - the trek to from Todd to the Hatchet Junction is easy - then pretty casual on to the Jct for Little Todd. Right before the Jct is a moving stream - if you are low on water - refill there as it is your last chance before the next leg of the trip. The hard part of the Minong is the next 18 or so miles - From Little Todd to N Desore it is a lot of Rock Hopping. No worries in the sun - and some great views - but you have to pay attention and it would be treacherous in the rain. Those of you that have hiked outside the Midwest would not call this challenging - but it is a moderate to challenging trail section. N Desore is a great campground - enjoy it. To get there is a commitment so the folks are pretty friendly. The ranger was hiking that section with me and was a totally cool guy - Oh, 5.5 hours of total hiking time, including stops and a luscious 30 minute nap on some moss on a sunny rock up on the ridge.

Day 4 - N Desor into Windigo. Again - 12.0 miles. Tough hike. Heading towards Windigo here is how I got through it - 4 big rocks to climb, a walk through the woods with rolling hills, two Beaver Ponds, then 6 more rocks to climb - then 1.8 miles and out. All you are thinking is shower at this point - and I think I logged a slightly faster than 3 mph pace on that last 1.8 miles because I was pooped but motivated to finish and get done. But, this is a great section of the Minong and one to be enjoyed. Again, this one took me about 5 hours and 40 minutes to do - including about 40 minutes of breaks. Actually, the Ranger left 40 minutes ahead of me that morning and I caught him at the half way point - he was a 'Rambl'in Man' - (grin).

Comments on the Minong -
1) Half of it is hard. The other half is a normal walk in the woods.
2) In the rain the rocks would make it more challenging.
3) Do it with Trekking Poles - wise man takes advantage of the extra balance points.
4) Watch for Cairns - they matter - and almost made a wrong turn once by not trusting my sense of direction.

Day 5 - Windigo to S Desore. This was an 11.3 mile stretch and I thought of this as kind of my rest day. Of course, at the Ranger station the ranger was talking up about how he had down it in 4 hours - so at least I had a target!! Left at 9:40 and got to s Desore at 3pm. 4 hours and 20 minutes. But I did stop a little bit, I had to eat a pop tart for goodness sake and the view from Mt. Desore lets you see both sides of the Island from the peak. Don't underestimate the uphill stretch from Windigo to Island Mine. Like one of my fellow hikers said it is like a road in N. Dakota - you see it just stretching out in front of you - and no views to make it interesting - just uphill. Or if you are finishing - all downhill. Great sandy beach on Lake Desore by the Group Campsites to take a dip in the lake - but knew weather was coming in so set up my tent, ate something hot and got ready for the impending rain - which did arrive. Overall, the trail is nothing too killer - once you have done the Minong this is a good average hike that let's you push yourself.

Day 6 - S Desore to W. Chickenbone. 15.0 miles. And a long trek. You can bailout at Hatchet (about halfway - but then you walk downhill to the lake, which means you have a steep climb out the next morning. Also, no water resupply on this long loop so take everything you need. FYI - I carried a 64 oz Platypus and two 32 oz Nalgene bottles. This was a really tough day as it rained all day - my boots were filled with water right away and I never bothered to stop and empty them as it would not have mattered anyway. Honestly, it was so wet and long a hike - I can't really remember the trail. I do remember that the Ranger Tower about an hour or so from Desor is dry underneath and a perfect place to set down the pack and have a Bonk Breaker for breakfast. So, got to W. Chickenbone (tent sites 1,2,3 are the good ones) and had to set up my tent. Of course, put it away wet and then set it up in the rain on a tent pad that was really just a mud puddle. One of those moments that is sick and wrong but you love it for all the wrong/ right reasons about the adventure of backpacking - you know what I mean? Anyways - got everythings swabbed out in the tent - then got my pack in - then stripped outside and left all my wet clothes in a pile under my vestibule. Put on some dry skivvies and socks and ate a tasty cold dinner of freeze dried cheesecake, macadamia nuts, and summer sausage. Umm good. It rained all night - and then started to blow all night - found out later they were gale force winds that canceled the ferries the next day. Not a lot of sleeping - but my Tarptent Squall held up very well. Left at 8:20 and finished the day at 3:15pm - roughly 7 hours. I was starting to slow down from logging the miles and just the weather - it was taking its toll.

Day 7 - W. Chickenbone to Rock Harbor. 15.4 miles. Last day - thank goodness. After getting up in the morning, getting naked and putting on my wet clothes that sat outside in my vestibule all night I was not the most motivated guy on the planet (BTW - did I mention it was 41 degrees?). But, nothing like a Cliff Apple Crisp drink w/ caffeine to jump start the heart for breakfast - then some GU Energy Gummi Bears (w/caffeine) and I was ready to go. This was still a wet hike all morning - took the turn and went up Mt Obijway - great views and then came down view Mt. Franklin and the Tobin Trail. Great hike, great views - totally worth it. Weather was not great - but a totally satisfying finish. Left at 8:45am and got into Rock Harbor at 3:30. More breaks as there were a lot of people to chat with from Mt. Franklin in to Rock Harbor. Oh - the Tobin Harbor Trail is only 3 miles but it seems like 10 when you are slogging to the finish. Anyways - since the Ferry's had canceled that day everything was full up - so got to spend another night in my tent - but it was a dry afternoon and night (grin). Had dinner at the lodge - it was good - not 4 star but hot and not freeze dried (grin).

Lessons from the Greenstone
1) You can do it in 3 days if you want.
2) No matter what you think - take 3 pair of socks. I needed the last dry pair on Day 7 to finish out the trip.
3) Do not count on the store in Windigo for resupply - it is not reliable. I checked it out and unless you like to carry cans it is not always well stocked.


Overall -
1) Great trip - highly recommended for the motivated that want to see the whole island. 8 days would be a bit more casual - but 7 is doable. Not sure I could do it in 6 - that would be pushing it.
2) I tracked Calories per Ounce as part of my preparation for the first time. Go there - it really helps to manage weight and let's you make educated decisions about what you put in your pack.
3) Take the rain coat. I did - I ran into a guy that did not and he looked miserable.
4) If you do the Minong - wear boots - you can do it with the new lightweight pseudo trail runners - but why risk the ankle turn.
5) The Minong/ Greenstone Loop should be marketed a bit harder by the Park. It is fun, doable, and a great challenge for the adventurous hiker looking for a bit more out of their trip.
5) The staff at Isle Royale are some of the best in the system. They really work hard to engage the hikers, offer advice (when asked), and serve as great ambassadors for the park.

Happy to answer any questions. I did keep a journal and more will come back to me over time.

Thanks - Plowhorse.
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Tom
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Re: Trip Report - Rock Harbor Minong/ Windigo / Greenstone Loop

Post by Tom »

Great Trip Report, PlowHorse! You lived up to your handled and put on the miles. I'll agree that the staff (especially those who return each year) are a special bunch. It's not just a 'job' to them. They are passionate about the Island, and the experience.
It's funny how your perspective changes depending on when and where you are on a trail - For instance, Tobin can be one of the easiest sections of trail... Unless you're coming off a trip like you just had, it's the last day, and you're just waiting to get to camp. Then it can seem like an endless loop..
I think the N Desor - Windigo stretch on the Minong is like that... You just want to be done going up and down over ridges, and get to camp already..

Thanks again for the TR. I look forward to more posts!

Tom
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Re: Trip Report - Rock Harbor Minong/ Windigo / Greenstone Loop

Post by upnorthjeeper »

Sounds like you had a good time time despite the rain and hiking so much. Starting at Lookout Louise you would have covered the all of the Greenstone, but that may not have fit into your tight schedule though. I'll be doing 8-10 miles a day on average, still more than the NPS recommends for beginners, but I know I'll be fine. I'm into photography and plan on making many stops for photo sessions, did you have any pics to share with us?
"Imagine living your life without being afraid to take a risk and to explore life."
-Don Miguel Ruiz
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