Mostly Greenstone, last week of August, 2009

Reports or links to reports on trips.

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Kevinl
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Mostly Greenstone, last week of August, 2009

Post by Kevinl »

Pictures are here http://community.webshots.com/slideshow/574440602EVwZDR

Monday. 3 miles of hiking. Grand Portage to Rock Harbor to Threemile. I was hoping to get to the island in late September, but my job had different plans, so I decided the day before I left to try this. It was the weekend when I decided to try the trip, so I showed up at the docks on Monday the 24th and hoped the Voyageur II had room for me, and I had flexibility about return dates. It worked, and we were off, traveling across smooth water. I had never been to the east side of the island, and that's where I was heading. This was a long day on the boat, all the way to Rock Harbor, but I found plenty of entertaining and enlightening conversation from fellow travelers.

My plan was to spend the first night at Lane Cove, but by the time we arrived and I was ready to start hiking, I was worried about the time of day and coming rain, so I went to Threemile instead. Enjoyed the short scenic hike. Shelters were full but my waterside campsite was awesome. Pileated woodpecker visited while I ate dinner. Rain, lightning and thunder shortly after dark, but I was cozy in my tent.

Tuesday: 8 miles, Threemile to Moskey Basin. Clearing skies. Nice shoreline hike to Daisy Farm. Loads of thimbleberries, raspberries, and blueberries. Daisy Farm was a busy place. I enjoyed the ridgetop hiking to Moskey Basin, nice change of view. Got there early afternoonish. Incredible views from my shelter. Took a nap, swam by dock. Watched birds. Nice neighbors. Beautiful evening. This was my favorite campsite of this trip.

Wednesday: 6.5 miles. Moskey to West Chickenbone. Nice ridgetop hiking until Lake Richie. Then the series of lakes (Richie, Lesage, Livermore) offered a great change up. I remembered portaging these with my dad last year and appreciated not doing it with a boat today. Met some nice people who were having lunch at Chickenbone, on a day hike and as soon as they were gone I set camp and ate lunch, took a nap, visited with other campers, waded into and around the lake to fish. Only thing I caught were leeches, tons of stubborn tiny ones around my ankles. Still, water felt bathtub warm. Met my new friend Tom, who I ended up more or less hiking the rest of the way to Windigo with, at least seeing him a lot. Fun guy.

Thursday. 15 miles. Chickenbone to South Desor. Climb out of Chickenbone felt great, woke me up. Wonderful views from Greenstone ridgetop of lakes I had passed day before. Light, brief showers, then sky cleared. My plan was to hike to Hatchet Lake and stay there. However, it was early when I hit that junction and I felt good so I kept going and ran into my new friend Tom, who was heading to South Desor as well. Took a break at the top of the climb right after Hatchet and another at the fire tower. I was surprised to find the fire tower inaccessible, the steps locked, but it was a shorty and couldn't have offered much for views anyway. Tom and I met again at the tower and the companionship was helpful the last few miles into South Desor. I was also surprised how elevated that campground is above the lake. I shared my site with a great guy named Jesse who realized he had lost his sandal on the walk from Windigo. We visited until it started raining, had a great conversation.

Friday. 11 miles. S. Desor to Washington Creek. Still raining in the morning. Said goodbye to Jesse from inside my tent. Then I packed in the rain too and left, just a couple minutes ahead of Tom, who I agreed to share a shelter with at Washington Creek (we figured they would be in demand with the rain). Rained all day on the trail, heavy at times. Felt like I was downhill skiing through the mud in spots. Made great time though. Sang Neil Young's song "Sugar Mountain" out loud when I passed that spot, remembered singing it to my boy when he was an infant, nostalgic. The hiking felt great, but by the time I made it to Washington Creek it felt like I was walking in soggy diapers (not that I often do that). I also was excited to find Jesse's sandal on the trail! Dumped my stuff in the shelter, went to turn the sandal in at the ranger station. Checked the forecast on the door (rain, cold and rain) and decided to ask about riding the Wenonah back that day--it was still early. The ranger said they would send the sandal to Rock Harbor and she said the Wenonah wasn't running that day due to 10 foot waves. I went to the store and got sodas, chips and sandwiches for me and Tom, who had arrived at the shelter when I got back there and was happy to see my bag of treats. Felt great to get out of my wet clothes, dried them in the machine too. The shelters filled fast, and we ended up inviting a group of four more people in. They were fun people to spend time with and baked incredible brownies and scones. It was crowded in there, but what a fun time! I felt bad that they had to smell me.

Saturday. Day hike late. Washington Creek. No boat coming today, nor planes. Still wicked waves. I got up early and snuck out of the shelter, hung out in the warmth of the ranger station and read their books, especially enjoyed the story of Mrs. Mott's winter on the island in 1850's. Watched small dramas play out as people came in to ask about the boats or planes. Most people seemed resigned to be stuck in such a cool place. Later in the afternoon the rain stopped and I went for a short hike to Grace Overlook, saw patches of blue growing in the sky. Fished a bit from the docks (nothing, but entertaining). Watched an osprey diving for fish. Had a great time visiting with all my new friends at the shelter. We got along great and I really enjoyed their company.

Sunday. Washington Creek to home. Again I got up early and snuck out of the shelter to not bother anyone. It was cold--Tom's thermometer showed 34 degrees. I hiked along the Huginnin trail and found nice views of the harbor. The berries were the best this morning: the rain had fattened them and it seemed like they were straight out of the fridge. When I got back my roomies had saved a scone for me! wow! What a breakfast after all the berries. We cleaned the shelter and hung out by the docks until it was time to go. We found a cribbage board on the boat and Tom smoked me a couple times until I had had enough of that. Said our goodbyes at the docks and had a fine drive back to southern Minnesota. Dog was happy to see and smell me.

Observations: I didn't bring a watch, and it was a strange feeling, especially waking up from naps or in the morning, but somehow freeing.

I met a lot of fun, warm people, as usual in this place.

While I have been to the island several times, I was still able to stay at all new campgrounds for me, except West Chickenbone, which I've been at several times. I really want to get to Malone Bay next time. Planning already.
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fonixmunkee
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Re: Mostly Greenstone, last week of August, 2009

Post by fonixmunkee »

Kevinl,

The bullet-point style trip report you got there ("fished, watched an osprey, read a book"), was so great to read. It was like a little laundry list of "things about Isle Royale that kick ass."

Your pictures are also great...those ones of the fog in the trees on the Greenstone look so cool.

Thanks very much for sharing. P.S., How do you like your Hubba Hubba tent? I absolutely love mine...
Kevinl
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Re: Mostly Greenstone, last week of August, 2009

Post by Kevinl »

Hey fonix.

I found the Hubba Hubba on sale for a couple hundred bucks a few weeks ago and couldn't walk by it. First night in it on the SHT, near the Canadian border, didn't hang my food (lazy) and I woke up with a mice on my face. They chewed a hole which is now covered with duct tape. Love love love the tent. It's roomy for one, light too, and I enjoy riding out the rain in it.
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Tom
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Re: Mostly Greenstone, last week of August, 2009

Post by Tom »

Thanks KevinL! As you clearly highlight, you meet some wonderful folks while sharing IR..
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Re: Mostly Greenstone, last week of August, 2009

Post by upnorthjeeper »

As fonixmunkee said, I really like the writing style...

Great pictures too, thanks for sharing! The Moskey Basin pics, 15/16 I think... those are very nice :)
"Imagine living your life without being afraid to take a risk and to explore life."
-Don Miguel Ruiz
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