Circumnavigating Isle Royale?

[Paddler89]

I'm working on putting a plan together to circumnavigate the island this spring in a 17ft aluminum with a buddy canoe over the course of 21 er so days any comments or suggestions? Routes, sites, good spots to land in the rockier areas, possibly good spots to throw a line?

[bergman]

When you say "Spring", can you be more precise when you plan to start? Also, do you have the flexibility of getting to the park from either MI or MN?

On the north shore, starting approx 1 mile east of the Huginnin Cove campsite, there is a 6.5 mile stretch which will not allow you to land your canoe. I've never paddled this stretch (have seen it from the Voyageur and have studied the topo map), but I believe that in order to exit the water, you would have to abandon your canoe & most of your gear, in order to scale a substantial vertical cliff. I suppose the canoe could be "rescued" by pulling it up and out of the water, if you hung on to a rope while scaling the wall, and if you're lucky enuf for the boat not to have taken on too much water.

If not so lucky, draw straws to see who is gonna scale back down to make the boat ready to be hoisted up. Realize, however, that while much of the cliff wall may allow u to scramble up, it may be too steep to allow u to climb back down. (How long and sturdy is the rope?)

Huginnin Cove to Little Todd is recommended for experienced kayakers only, due to the inability to land the boat. Also, the north shore in general (at least on the open lake) is recommended for experienced kayakers only.

Last but not least; in fact, probably the most important. U should have a weather radio, preferably a VHF marine radio, as the marine radio will be better able to get reception, as well as allow u to broadcast a mayday communication to other boaters within a 5 mile "line of sight".

[johnhens]

Couple of questions.
Go you own at least a farmer john and dry top? You will need it in the Spring.
The paddle around has been done in canoes. How much experience do you have?
There is a good deal of discussion on paddling Superior in Spring. Look at past threads.
Have you paddled Superior before?
There is good fishing for lakers and northern as they are in shallow.

[bergman]

Do you own at least a farmer john and dry top? You will need it in the Spring.
.

I just got a farmer john wetsuit this past summer. But what is a dry top? Is that a complete drysuit to go over the FJ, or does it just cover the torso, arms & neck?

This past May 28, i sailed back from the park on the Queen. Two young people (male/female) from houghton were on the boat, and had just circled the island in a canoe (pretty sure they sailed on the 14th, as they weren't on the may18th boat with me). What really impressed me is that they had never paddled together before that trip! The guy works at the sports store in houghton, so he really knows his gear. Still, i considered them somewhat fortunate, as i "tasted" the water temp on that trip.

Having made an "emergency landing" the day before in a spot that was not at all conducive to a landing, the next AM I launched my kayak barefoot, with the water almost knee-deep before i could get into the boat. When i put ashore 2 hrs later, i guess my feet must never have warmed up, as on the landing i was only 1/2 shin deep and only briefly. When i walked up on the rocky shore, i looked down at my feet as i realized my brain had lost any communication with them, and being unable to keep my balance, promptly fell down among the rocks. A weird but humbling experience.

I recall the water temp was 39, which was actually a record high for that time of year. However, a ranger explained that the temp can be significantly colder than that at the shoreline, if the wind & water currents are bringing up deeper water where it hits the shore.

The deck on my Old Town touring kayak wasnt tall enough for me to wear anything but some undersized open "Crocs". By June, i had a Wilderness Systems Tsunami 145, with 16" tall deck to accomodate a decent water boot. I should have at least brought my neoprene booties along on my May trip, but i wanted something with a rugged bottom, in case I had to exit the kayak in unknown/unseen (lake bottom) conditions, so as not to break an ankle or bruise my foot.

I would recommend rounding the island clockwise, as the Voyageur II does it. I think the VII's pattern is based on the # of pick-up spots on the respective shores (2 north; 3 south; belle isle on north shore is pretty quiet for drop-offs or pick-ups). My experience is that early season, the winds are mostly E or NE, so you can "hitch a ride" for a good part of the south shore. Mid to late summer i think i would still go clockwise, to ride the predominant westerlies (that time of season) along the north shore.(particularly important to give yourself an advantage along that 6+ mile stretch where u cannot land). Plus, that saves Blake Point for last.

[johnhens]

Do you own at least a farmer john and dry top? You will need it in the Spring.
.

I just got a farmer john wetsuit this past summer. But what is a dry top? Is that a complete drysuit to go over the FJ, or does it just cover the torso, arms & neck?

.

A dry top is a waterproof or GoreTex type paddling top with usually neoprene seals at the waist,cuffs amd neck.

The paddle from Little Todd to Hugginin is about 14 miles. The stretches with what I would call difficult to impossible to use as pullout sites are considerably longer than a total of 6 miles, if that is what you mean.

Neoprene booties are a must.

I know folks have done circumnavigations in canoes in August when the water is warmer.

[bergman]

Ok. Thanks Hens. I bought an NSR paddling top at REI in june, but it only has the neoprene closures at the neck and sleeves, the waist just being a drawstring. I'll have to look for one with a closure at the waist.

The most dangerous stretch is the 6.5 miles that begins where the East Huginnin Cove Trail is forced to head inland by the shoreline cliff. Given the distance involved and thus the amount of time the Big Lake will have to turn on you, conditions have to be perfect to venture out in a canoe.

Yes, landing along that stretch is virtually impossible. A continuous cliff wall varying between 10 to 25', with one relatively short section of 40 to 50'.

Next comes a 1.6 mile stretch which is what u would call "I really hope we don't have to put ashore", but there are some intermittent spots where u could do so.

Then another 2.2 miles of "impossible to land".

Then 1.8 mi to Little Todd: "Thank God we made it!".

Even if I owned a sea kayak, i would not be proficient to kayak that part of the island. The only aluminum canoe that i would feel confident in along there would be an old 17' or 18' Grumman, with 7 or 9 lateral floor braces, respectively. The newer 17' Grummans are built with only 3 floor cross-braces.

Anyone who paddles Superior in May or early June in an open canoe should be sure to have a decent life insurance policy. There are seasoned ship captains who live on the MN shore, who at some point got caught by Lake Superior when they "let down their guard", and as a result refuse to go out on the lake again in any type of vessel or boat, their pride having been mortally wounded. I always try to keep their experience in mind. While I may be an excellent paddler, I know little of the "sea"; nor am i able to read the sky or horizon for an impending front or storm.

I say be sure to carry some extra cash, so that if you start out at Rock Harbor, but "run out of gas or courage" by the time u get to Windigo, u can hop on the Voyageur (so its a good idea to have a copy of their schedule with you).

Planning to have 21 days to do it is your best strength.

[Paddler89]

So I guess I did leave a little information out. Sorry for that. This will actually be my third time paddling in the park. I've previously been on two 8 day trips both of which have been on good ol' mother Superior, and I have also done over a half dozen trips to and around Grand Island in Munising, MI both solo and with a group.
The first trip to Isle Royale was in the first week of September in 2011. My roommate and I took a 17ft Grumman from Rock Harbor around Blake Point and through the Five Fingers loop and then got picked up at McCargo Cove via the Voyager and head back to RH. We saw one rough day with 5 to 6 footers out of the North as we rounded the peninsula into Stockly Bay. It was a good experience and added to the adventure we were seeking as well as our paddling experience. All together it was a a breath taking trip and caused me to fall in love with the island.
The Second trip took place this past spring with two good friends of mine One of which I was paddling with and the other following us on the hiking trail. We went over on the first run of the season on the Queen. Again we took the same canoe as the previous trip. The water was at a balmy 35-38 degrees depending where you were. For this trip we decided to go inland a bit. Night 1 Daisy Farm, N2 Intermediate Lake, N3 Wood Lake, N4 Lake Whittlesey, N5 Chippewa Harbor. From there we decided weather permitting we'd skip going back through Lake Ritchie and that horrid portage from Ritchie to Moskey and head out into open water to Caribou Island. We took off from Chippewa Harbor at day light and it was almost dead calm. We managed to make it to Caribou Island by noon with a few stops in between. Half way through that paddle the winds did kicked up out of the NE and tossed us around a bit but we managed quite well. That was the worst of it on that trip.
I feel quite confident paddling on open water, I always have a VHF/ Weather Radio on my PFD and listen to it frequently through out each day. Before our first trip we outfitted our Grumman with a homemade spray skirt leaving only the seats open and if needed, we can cover the whole canoe. I also have all the 1:24,000 USGS topo. quads for the island to make navigation easy. In addition, my roommate and I (the same person that accompanied me on the first trip and will be my partner in this next adventure) while on a bow hunting trip to Grand Island this past fall, figured out how to safely sail using a 12x12 nylon kelty tarp. So we will be utilizing this skill also. We have all the proper paddling clothing and are both Wilderness First Responder certified.
So tentatively for this trip over the course of 20 days or so My roommate and I are looking at coming into RH then doing the same loop as last spring....except at Chippewa Harbor (weather permitting) we'll take to open water and head towards Siskiwit Bay and onward around the island. I'm thinking food drop at Windigo Harbor probably around day 10 or 12. We will be fishing quite frequently as well. I know 21 days may seem excessive but figuring in bad weather and time to explore i felt it was sufficient.
Apparently the Huginin Cove to Little Todd is quite rough but doable. Are there any areas along the south end of the island that could pose a problem? Any cool places to check out? Fishing areas? Day Hikes? Trip/gear suggestions or any other concerns? Any input on this trip is greatly appreciated as it will help me with the logistics a great deal. Thanks!!

[Ingo]

Whew! I feel a little better now! Have wanted to respond, but didn't quite know what to say. You may still be crazy, but at least not naive . I've dreamed about doing it, but pretty sure that dream will die with me. I don't have much to offer, but a couple thoughts.

I would consider some additional floatation--in the event of swamping would make it easier/safer to get to shore. There's usually enough built in to float the canoe, but not your gear and you, and adds stability when swamped. As you probably know, pay particular attention to all areas around points, reefs, islands, etc. as the currents can stir up otherwise manageable water quickly. There's a lot more currents around the island than most folks expect, given it's "just a lake". Get the NOAA chart(s). Even though you may not need them much for navigating in a canoe, knowing the bottom can be important for areas to avoid--waves build over reefs and anywhere the bottom shallows quickly. And FYI, in Todd Harbor we had an injury situation (hiking) and some boaters were helping us out--they couldn't raise anyone on their handheld VHF from the dock but did get the Coast Guard out of Duluth when they did a radio check. Apparently they have a tower on the hill in Grand Marais.

[bergman]

U mentioned that u will start out with the same loop itinerary as last May. U might consider paddling the lake to chippewa harbor. From there whittlesey-intermediate(2 nites?)-richie(in&out only to fish on same day)-then paddle thru siskiwit, trolling for laker (that early in the season, they may be in the top 12-15' of water) & grill 'em up at malone, where u will have your pick of and can relax at the shelters while u watch the forecast. From that point u will be exclusively on Superior waters, as I'm sure u know.

[johnhens]

. Are there any areas along the south end of the island that could pose a problem? Any cool places to check out? Fishing areas? Day Hikes? Trip/gear suggestions or any other concerns? Any input on this trip is greatly appreciated as it will help me with the logistics a great deal. Thanks!!

The shore from Malone Bay (once you clear the group of Islands) to Chippewa is similar to the shore from Chippewa to Caribou.
There is lots of good fishing in May

[bergman]

The first trip to Isle Royale was in the first week of September in 2011. My roommate and I took a 17ft Grumman from Rock Harbor around Blake Point and through the Five Fingers loop and then got picked up at McCargo Cove via the Voyager and head back to RH. We saw one rough day with 5 to 6 footers out of the North as we rounded the peninsula into Stockly Bay. It was a good experience and added to the adventure we were seeking as well as our paddling experience.

Your first trip was the exact 10 yr anniversary (to the week) of my 1st paddling trip in the park. I had two potential canoe partners lined up, but ended up solo (one buddy had a kidney issue: the other got cold feet). I was coming back from Belle Isle to Duncan Bay. Got caught in a storm coming out of NE, as i prepared to round that same peninsula after coming out of Stockly Bay into 5FingerBay.

I am always kneeling when I paddle solo on Superior. Long story short, my 16.5' kevlar canoe filled with water and the rain came down so hard it somehow penetrated my rainjacket-my first and only experience with hypothermia.

It can be hard to recognize that you are hypothermic when you are alone. While portaging into Duncan Bay, i hiked back one last time to 5Finger to doublecheck if I had portaged all of my gear. Scanning the rocky shoreline where I had unloaded, I confirmed that I got everything. Just a moment later I looked a second time, and there sat one last bag right before my eyes. Of course, I was cold & soaked, but it was only then that I realized I must be hypothermic.

I was fortunate to be only a "stone's throw" (relatively speaking) from the Bay outpost, and found an open shelter. My back-up plan was to take refuge in the outhouse of all places! I was just as lucky to learn an invaluable lesson early on, in my trips at isle royale.

[treeplanter]

Personally, I would never circumnavigate the island in a canoe, especially in May. A sea kayak, yes, but a canoe? No way.

Just note that the Huginnin-to-Little Todd stretch isn't the only shoreline to fear while paddling around the island. You can find long stretches of rocky, inhospitable shoreline almost anywhere around the island. Chippewa Harbor to Saginaw Point comes to mind.

Your main problem will be unpredictable winds. What may start out a smooth, light-wind day can quickly deteriorate to gusty winds and three feet+ waves. And anybody familiar with paddling in the Lake is well aware of the "lake chop' you find immediately adjacent to a rocky shore. Good luck trying to land a canoe in these conditions if you have to. And be aware that you may have to deal with remnant shore ice too.

Only other advice I'll offer is to know when not to go out. Don't feel you have to paddle to the next location because your schedule says so. Build enough slop into your schedule to include several days at camp if the weather dictates.

Other than that, have at it.

[Paddler89]

I understand what your saying and your cautionary warnings but from my current itinerary I'm looking at doing it over the course of 23 days where as an experienced kayaker can complete the trip in 5 to 8 days. So I should have more than enough time. In addition to this I've paddled both Grand Island and Pictured Rocks in an aluminum canoe and have experienced rough waters around both. The terrain is also very similar. I do appreciate your input tho thank you. I've been taking everyone's comments and suggestions into account while planning this trip.

[bergman]

...anybody familiar with paddling in the Lake is well aware of the "lake chop' you find immediately adjacent to a rocky shore. Good luck trying to land a canoe in these conditions if you have to.

This is an excellent observation, regarding the lake chop at the shoreline.

Before making my first paddle from Caribou Island to Chippewa Harbor, I would scan the shoreline with binoculars from the Ranger III as the boat began to leave the island and headed back to Houghton. One time, while doing so, I had an opportunity to ask two rangers sitting nearby how challenging it would be to do that stretch in a canoe, and I expressed particular concern for hitting hidden rocks. Their response was that I would be OK on that entire stretch as long as I kept 15-20 yards from shore.

My experience along that stretch now tells me that they had never paddled it themselves. My first time on that stretch I was in a 13'9" Old Town Adventure XL kayak. Just a touring kayak, but I would say more stable than a 17 or 18' canoe. What I found was that along the stretches with the cliff wall, I had to stay 75-100 yards off shore to not get caught in what are called "clapotis" waves, an area of very disturbed and unpredictable water within the last 25-30 yards from shore.

"In nearshore hydrodynamics, the clapotis (from French: "lapping of water") is a non-breaking standing wave pattern, caused for example, by the reflection of a traveling surface wave train from a near vertical shoreline like a breakwater, seawall or steep cliff".

"Clapotis is a term kayakers use for reflected waves combining with the incoming waves in predictable patterns causing an area of disturbed water where wave height ...". It's not a term used by canoeists because they would be swamped in such conditions.

For the scientifically inclined, please refer to a September 2002 article in the Journal of Fluid Mechanics , titled: "On steep gravity waves meeting a vertical wall: a triple instability". The authors are two guys from the University of California, including Michael Longuet-Higgins (born 1925), a mathematician and oceanographer who got his Ph.D. at Cambridge University in London. But what does he know?

So with the cold water temps in May, my plan was to stay close enough to the shore so that if I did capsize, I could at least swim the short distance to shore and I had an emergency fire kit along. So much for that plan. And I had to laugh at myself as far as the 50' nylon rope I had coiled up atop the back end of the kayak, with one end of the rope latched to the tail end. I figured if I stayed 15-20 yards offshore, that in the event of a capsize, I would grab the rope, swim to shore, and then from there pull in my boat & gear. LOL The rope was a pretty white though, set against the dark green kayak.

Another thing I learned listening to the marine forecasts from Marquette or Duluth (?) was that "waves 1-3' " means wave height out in the lake, where power boaters are cruising. Those same waves are substantially higher at the shore, or along hidden reefs and stuff, as pointed out by Ingo above ("pay particular attention to..."). Interestingly enough, the Canadian marine forecast always tells you that the waves will be substantially greater at the shoreline, etc. I guess it's supposed to be common knowledge, but I kinda like the fact that the Canadians give that reminder. When you're out there on the island, at that point where you're trying to make an intelligent decision about whether it will be safe to go out on the lake, the Canadian forecast is like having your mom along, reminding you of the obvious (because she remembers very well the times that your judgment fell short of the mark).

[Ingo]

... marine forecasts from Marquette or Duluth (?) was that "waves 1-3' " means wave height out in the lake ...

The forecast significant wave height is the average of the highest 1/3 of the waves. However, the maximum wave height may be twice that. So 1-3' means you should be prepared for 4+ and could see a 6 footer. And if you really want to know, here's a technical description: http://www.vos.noaa.gov/MWL/apr_06/waves.shtml