First-timer planning for next summer

[hirkeukvic]

Okay, intros: I've been backpacking before, but only in the Sierras in the summer (I did 70 miles a few years back.) I recently moved to the Midwest (Cincinnati area, to be specific) and found out about Isle Royale through the NPS website--I was hunting for adventure opportunities near Ohio and turned up with one nowhere near Ohio. The thing I found most attractive about IR is that nobody goes there. I wanted to go somewhere unique--Yosemite ranks as my current favorite place in the world, but it's overrun by tourists.

So here I am in the forum, and I need help. I'm planning a trip for the coming summer, and I'm clueless when it comes to anything outside of, and especially north of, California. What I'm looking at is the western side of the island--I like the look of the Feldtman/Siskiwit Bay/Island Mine loop, since it appears to be a nice 4-5 day adventure, and I like the idea of staying up late with a fire at Siskiwit and watching the sun rise over the bay the next morning. What I need to know, though, is how hard the loop is. I'm planning to take a group of friends with me (no more than the 10 limit, and probably less than that), and I don't know how in-shape we'll all be. I can walk for an entire day without trouble, but not everyone can do that. Also, does the loop feature good scenery, or should I try the other side of the island?

Second question: What time of year is best? I'm looking at either the beginning (mid-May) or end (mid-August) of the summer, since I'm a grad student and that fits in with my schedule best. May looks better scheduling-wise, but how cold will it be then? My sleeping bag is rated to 20 degrees, for example--is that not warm enough?

Third question: What's the average price tag per person for an IR trip? If I'm going to convince people to join me, I need to give them an estimate on price. I'm looking at like $250/person, which would include food, fees, and ferry fares, as well as road tripping expenses getting to the port. Is that a reasonable estimate?

And finally: Gear. I figure the gear I used to hike in the Sierras will work, as long as I add some warmer clothes. Is there anything special I'll need for this trip in particular? I'm mostly trying to give my friends advice on what they need to buy, since I'm already loaded with gear.

Any advice you can give is helpful. I'd like an airtight plan before I go so that there aren't any major mishaps muddling my plans.

--J

[Tom]

First,welcome hirkeuvic! I think you've selected IR for the same reasons as many of us. It's quiet; it's beautiful.
I'll provide my two cents; I'm sure others will certainly contribute. It's what we love about the forum.

Feldtman Loop Route: As far as IR goes, I'd put it in about the middle of difficulty. Each day is roughly 9-10miles, so good spacing. There are times you're going up to a ridge; other times you're walking level through a low land and tripping on roots. You can take a slow and easy pace and still have plenty of time in camp. By an large I'd say IR isn't a place for a person oblivious to what backpack camping is; but the route you've selected is a good one.
Group: I'd personally recommend keeping it to you and five friends... That way, you're not registered as a 'group.' Groups are to stay in designated camp pads, and have to stick to itinerary, no matter what the weather. Regular camp parties (under 7) can elect to change itinerary.
Mid-May: Well, the Lake will be cold, but the flies won't be out. Even a quick jump in Feldtman will get the heart pumping. Transit options will be more limited, as the ferry schedules will be light and won't have all the days until Mid-June.I'd say a 20 degree bag would keep you warm; but you could see snow, too! Last year, the opening ferry (Voyageur II) was delayed because ice in the bays.
Mid-August: IR never really gets "hot" but that's about the warmest time. The understory/growth will be thick in places. However, even Lake Superior will be warm enough for a quick dip.

Price: Well, the ferries are probably $130-150 round trip. Add $4/day Park fee. That's the hard costs. The rest, well, it depends on what food you bring; where you stay the night before the trip; and who knows what gas prices will be in six months.. I'd say your $250 is a pretty good guess.

Gear: No specialty gear is required, per se. Bug dope is good no matter when you're there. I'd recommend bringing at least two water filters; regulations require you to backflush the filter if used in Superior to prevent the transfer of the spiny water flea. It's just easier to run two filters, and 'inland' and a 'Superior' version, and you can avoid that unless a filter goes bad.

Tom

[Kevinl]

Welcome. Everything Tom said is right on.

What I need to know, though, is how hard the loop is. I'm planning to take a group of friends with me (no more than the 10 limit, and probably less than that), and I don't know how in-shape we'll all be. I can walk for an entire day without trouble, but not everyone can do that. Also, does the loop feature good scenery, or should I try the other side of the island?

You say you enjoy solitude, so the western side of the island is the one you want. For scenery, there's no place on the island that I've seen that I would consider ugly (no big parking lots with plastic bags flying around etc.). You'll get a nice variety though. Be sure to include a walk to Rainbow Cove near Feldtmann Lake. If you want more variety, consider adding another night to include a relatively short hike to Huginnin Cove, where the landscape is quite a bit different. For difficulty, this loop isn't the easiest nor is it the hardest, like Tom said. But if your buddies aren't in shape and your packs are too heavy, it will feel long, and hilly in spots. If that's the case, and I don't know how much time you have available so I'll just keep throwing out ideas, but consider a rest day (or weather day) in your itinerary.

Second question: I can't help, as spring has never been an option for me. But a 20 degree sleeping bag should be fine if you're wearing the right layer(s) inside it. A tent with a rainfly can keep some pretty good body heat.

What's the average price tag per person for an IR trip?

Tom nailed it there. The one thing that isn't variable is the ferry fees and park fees. For the rest, as with anything, you can go into debt if you want or you can get by real cheap. Save some cash for snacks at the store at Windigo for the end of your trip though.

And finally: Gear

I'm not one to give advice, but keep it light. Whatever you buy and whatever you bring, you have to carry. A big group is nice for spreading weight though (but I would keep your group under 6 too). A water filter, a stove, and a tent is all you really need. Some gas or alcohol to cook with. Something to cook. And that sleeping bag. And maybe a tent. And toilet paper. A hat. And bug spray. And extra socks. Headlamps. Camera. Maybe a cribbage board. See why I don't give advice.

No matter how much you plan, something will change. Have a great time.

[Ingo]

Hey hirkeukvic,
Welcome to the forum! I'm a paddler, not a backpacker, but others will help you out any way they can.
I can speak to the cost though. A few years ago a group of 5 us did a 6 day canoe trip and I found the spreadsheet I used to keep track of costs--total cost was $313.55 per person. That included a night at the Grand Portage Lodge & Casino, and we provisioned at the grocery store. It also includes $79 per person associated with renting and transporting canoes, which you won't have. But given your extra traveling, gas, etc. I'd go with a $300 figure. Ferry fees might be higher too.
John I

[Backpacker534]

Hirkeukvic, first of all, welcome to the forum! Everyone here is nice and we enjoy sharing our experiences and knowledge of Isle Royale. Check out all the categories, I'm sure you'll find lots of helpful information to plan your trip.

I'll start by saying that the Feldtman loop was probably my favorite hike on the island. The terrain is moderate but not too difficult and the scenery is beautiful. My buddy and I took collapsible fishing poles and had a great time fishing on Feldtman Lake (13 pike in about two hours). We also saw several moose around our campsite during the time we were at that campsite. The side trip to Rainbow Cove is also worthwhile.

Every time I have been to the island it has been around the third week of May. The weather at that time of the year can vary quite a bit. We've had freezing temperatures overnight to rather mild overnight temps. We've had rain and sun and daytime temps between the mid 50's and the upper 70's. The good thing about traveling at this time of the year is that the park is still pretty deserted, as opposed to mid summer, and the bugs don't seem to be too bad.

In terms of transportation, my trips usually cost me about $300-350 but that includes gas money, food for the trip, NPS fees and boat fares. I put together a chart of all the transportation companies that can get you to the island. It is on my website if you are interested.

Good luck with your planning. This is a good site to get the information you'll need.

[johnhens]

The Loop is a great trip, with nice camping oppurtunities and great scenery.

Depending on which way you go, the only section of the "Loop" that isn't really scenic is the short section betwen Island Mine and Windigo.
Leaving Windigo going to Feldtmann, you walk along Washington Harbor and then cut in at Grace Creek where you head up to a nice ridge with great views. You cross the open ridge and drop down into the woods. The hike from there to Feldtmann is mostly level through the woods. Feldtmann Lake is a great place to camp, try and get one of the sites on the water.
A short hike out to Rainbow Cove gives beautiful views of Superior.

The hike to Siskiwit is nice. You have a good climb to Coyote Ridge which is fairly open with beautiful views all around. Take time to enjoy the views freom the fire tower!! After crossing the ridge, there is a gentle descent to a nice walk through birch trees to Siskiwit.

The hike from Siskiwit to Island Mine is nice, you follow the bay for a while and then begin a gentle climb to Island Mine. From there it is mostly downhill to Washington Creek.

If you go to Huginin, go out on the West trail to Huginin Cove. Some nice views to Washington Harbor. Huginin Cove is a nice place to camp!
The hike back on the East trail follows bluffs for a while and then heads in past a few beaver ponds and some ols cabin remains!!

As far as when to go, May is nice and cool, snow would not be out of the question. Cold water from the lake on a warm day is awesome!! no bugs usually and the views on the Island are nice as the trees have not leafed out.
Late August is nice as the bugs are less though if it has rained the mosquitoes can be a bother. Usually less folks on the West end.

Check out some of the TR's of the Feldtmann Loop!!

Welcome to the Forums!!
The folsk here are quite knowledgeable!!!!

[fonixmunkee]

Welcome to the forums, Hirkeukvic! You're going to get all the answers and help (and maybe some extra feedback you might not want ) at this forum.

I'm going to second or third the Feldtmann loop. It's a moderate-difficulty trail that offers a stunning intro to the island. You have the majesty of Lake Superior when you arrive at Siskiwit, that continues the entire time on your hike to Feldtmann. Then when you arrive at Feldtmann, you get to experience the solitude of IR at a beautiful little lake nestled inbetweenst a couple of ridge lines, sheltered from Lake Superior. This trip you're going to surely see some critter activity, too (Feldtmann is known for a lot of moose activity). It's also a good location for fishing.

Try this search for some trip reports: http://isleroyaleforums.com/search.php? ... mit=Search

There's sometimes argument over which direction to take to do the loop, but I've done them both ways, and they are the same (to me, at least).

As far as price, I would guesstimate that the average price is about $100 per person, leaving from Grand Portage, MN. That's to and from Windigo, with no connections. This fee includes ferry and park fees.

Lastly, gear is a variable that changes with what trek you take and what time of year you head out to the island at. There's plenty of gear nuts--for backpacking and paddling alike--here, so if you can nail down your time frame a bit more, there's plenty of assistance to be had. I'm a big fan of spring or early-summer time frame, when the island isn't as busy, and it's not so buggy out. The weather is also cooler, which I'm a big fan of as well.

Hopefully these replies will get you off in the right direction!

[philranger]

Check out our trip report "Kari and Wally's trip report". We traveled to the island at the end of August and did the Feltmann Loop. You've gotten a lot of info in this thread already so I won't repeat it. It's a good idea that you are starting to plan the trip already, because you'll be better prepared with more planning. I'm glad you discovered this forum, there are a lot of helpful, educated and experienced campers here.

[hirkeukvic]

Wow! I'm glad to see how helpful people are on this board--seems like you really do love the island. I'll take all of your advice into account. My map reading skills must have come in handy again, considering I picked a popular loop based on maps alone. (I love maps, by the way. My souvenir from Yosemite this summer was a topo map of the park.) I like the sound of doing the trip in May, if only because booking tickets will be easier. Though I don't really like the possibility of hiking through snow ... hmm ... Anyway, once I can nail down a date, I can start working on other details like money and gear and such. Nailing down a date, of course, involves convincing some friends to join me. Can't understand why it's so hard to find people willing to go on a major adventure. Time and money, time and money, I guess.

--J

[srparr]

There's great advice in this thread, so I'll only add a nice variation on the Feldtmann loop. Day's shown are from my trip three years ago ... you can arrive/leave different days, but you need to verify that the ferry is running on the days expected (it is not an every-day kind of thing, even at the height of the busy season):

SAT: Arrive Windigo (hangout there or dayhike Huginnin)
SUN: Hike to Feldtmann (visit Rainbow cove for sunset!)
MON: Hike to Siskiwit (great beach)
TUE: Hike to South Lake Desor (checkout beach near group sites)
WED: Hike to Malone (my favorite camp site on the island)
THU: Catch ride on the Voyageur II back to Wendigo

The obvious key here is catching the ride with the Voyageur II at Malone Bay. If you miss the ride, it is a long wait or a long walk back! You should reserve the ride in advance to make sure the boat will be able to pick you up. Note this will cost a little extra for the ferry ride, but Malone is great place to visit (and the boat ride back to Wendigo gives a great view of the coast).

[Nick]

I like what srparr says. I even concur with JohnH which, if you read much of this forum, you will find very unusual, but that is another story.

The Huginun Cove loop is a grea way to tune up for the other trip. I agree that goig to South Desor is better than Island Mine. Depending on when you camp at Island Mine, water might be an issue. Also, it ranks as one of the bottom two camp sites on the Island IMHO and I've stayed at them all. Also, if you do the loop clockwise, you will miss the hike up to the ridge from Feldtman Lake. It's not a long hike, but it is brutal.

I'd also try to keep the group small--why not two or three groups?

Nick

[philranger]

Hey Nick,

You said Island Mine was in the bottom two for campsites. What's the other one?

[johnhens]

Hey Nick,

You said Island Mine was in the bottom two for campsites. What's the other one?

Pretty much any campsite Nick happens to be at!!!!!!

[fonixmunkee]

philranger: I'm sure East Chickenbone is the other one.

[Nick]

Yep, East Chickenbone. That's where I laid up in '03 with the bad knee. No shade, water 1/2 mile away. The only positive think was that I'd not met JohnH, yet. Et tu Brute!