Isle Royale Forums

Hello all. First post on the forums here, but I have been browsing for a few months as my wife and I planning a kayaking trip to the island this summer. I’ve read a lot of the great trip reports here and picked up the Foot Trails and Water Routes book to try to put together an itinerary for our 6-day trip. Would like to get some feedback from the experts here!

My wife and I are what I would call “intermediate” paddlers. This is only our second season with the kayaks, but we’ve taken lessons and are comfortable on open water. We live very close to Lake Michigan and occasionally take the kayaks out on the lake for some open-water paddling. Last summer we paddled the Inland Waterway, covering 42 miles in two days from Crooked Lake to Cheboygan, which included some of the worst weather I’ve ever experienced on Burt Lake. (In retrospect, at the time we had little idea what we were doing, but we survived.) So we’ve got a little experience under our belts.

So with that in mind, Isle Royale will be our first truly multi-day back-country kayaking trip. We’ve never done any serious portaging but have been practicing carrying the kayaks from our house down to the marina in our town, which is about a mile-and-a-half walk each way with a bit of elevation change.

Here’s the tentative schedule I’ve laid out, covering the inland lakes. Is this do-able, too aggressive, sounds about right, etc.? We are looking to enjoy ourselves, absorb the island and not rush through it, but at the same time I do like to feel like I am getting somewhere.

Day 1: Arrive Rock Harbor via Queen IV. Paddle to Moskey Basin campground.

Day 2: Portage to Lake Richie. Paddle Lake Richie. Portage to Lake LaSage. Lunch at Lake LaSage. Portage to Lake Livermore. Paddle Lake Livermore. Portage to Chickenbone. Camp at East Chickenbone.

Day 3: Paddle Chickenbone. Portage to McCargoe Cove. Paddle McCargoe Cove. Lunch on Birch Island. Paddle to Pickerel Cove campground. Camp at Pickerel Cove.

Day 4: Paddle to Belle Isle. Lunch at Belle Isle. Paddle to Lane Cove. Camp at Lane Cove. -Or– Keep going and portage to Stockly Bay, portage to Duncan Bay and camp there.

Day 5: Duncan Bay to Blake Point, around the point. Lunch at Merritt Lane. Paddle to Tobin Harbor. Camp at Rock Harbor.

Day 6: Portage over to Rock Harbor. Leave on 2:45 PM ferry.

How does that sound? I tried to plan the trip to cover more in the front end, leaving some buffer towards the end. I’ve also considered a trip through the southern lakes (Richie, Intermediate, Siskiwit, Wittlesey, Chippewa) – for those who have done both routes, which one would you do for a first time?

Some other questions:
We will be there the first week of July. How are the crowds that time of year?
Is my Day 2 plan too much to do in one day? I figure if we have to have one day with a lot of portages, do it early in the trip when we are fresh - although our gear will be heavier. (By the way – we plan on single-portaging.)
East or West Chickenbone campground? Which one is preferable?
Is it a bad idea to try to round Blake Point? I’d like to avoid the Duncan Bay to Tobin Harbor portage. I figure if we stick close to the shore we should be OK (depending on weather). Speaking of weather, do I need a marine radio? Or is that more of a “nice-to-have”?

Any other tips? I plan on bringing a pack rod to do some fishing along the way. I don’t have much fishing experience, but will post those questions in another thread.

Thanks!

Welcome Spartan! It's a very doable trip and probably one I'd do with 6 days. The 2nd day would be a long day however! Frankly, after the Moskey/Richie portage you probably won't be in the mood to go anywhere else. From Richie to McCargoe you'll be portaging more than paddling so there's not much break from carrying things.

Here's what I would do:
1st night: Caribou Island, if it's not full, or go on to Moskey. Both are great campsites.
2nd night: Lake Richie. Catch some northern for dinner
3rd night: Birch Island, if not full and the weather forecast is good for the next day. If the forecast is for worsening weather, go on to Pickeral while you can. We had 2-4 footers last year on that stretch last year (in an open canoe), and that was after laying over a day because it had been worse.
4th night: Belle Isle, Lane Cove, Duncan Narrows, or Duncan Bay. Doesn't really matter and you can see how you feel. Portages are short, or you can paddle the whole way if the weather's good.
5th night: If the weather's good, go around Blakes Pt and camp at Merritt Lane. Or go on to Rock Harbor is you want to spend the last day relaxing there. If the weather's not good and you may have to portage, Duncan Narrows would be the best bet--you may get a break in the morning.
Day 6: Making Rock Harbor from Duncan Narrows (or Duncan Bay) for the 2:45 boat shouldn't be a problem whether you paddle or portage.

This gives you 2 opportunities to tackle each of the 2 open stretches of water. Cause it all depends on the wind and weather. Around Blakes Pt particularly, sometimes you'll get bounce from the swell off the shoreline creating confused waves--staying a little more offshore is sometimes better.

A VHF radio is a very good idea. You won't know if you need it until you do....

I don't ever feel like the crowds are very big in July. You'll see a lot of people from Rock Harbor to Moskey Basin/Lake Ritchie. Day 2 sounds like a lot, however, it just depends how you're feeling, weather and so forth. A weather radio is probably a good idea (I don't take one, but that is a personal preference thing). I am more familiar with your 2nd consideration (southern lakes). Lake Whittlesey is my favorite because you can catch pike and walleye (see Fishing Questions thread). Bring a journal and read Jim DuFresne's book.

Thanks for the advice Ingo -- exactly the type of info I was looking for.

Ingo wrote:Frankly, after the Moskey/Richie portage you probably won't be in the mood to go anywhere else. From Richie to McCargoe you'll be portaging more than paddling so there's not much break from carrying things.

Actually, you are probably right...

Ingo wrote: Here's what I would do:
1st night: Caribou Island, if it's not full, or go on to Moskey. Both are great campsites.
2nd night: Lake Richie. Catch some northern for dinner

This is a much better idea. Gives us the option to stay at the Lake Richie canoe campground. Itinerary amended!

Spartan,

What kind of kayaks are you paddling?

You've got some fairly good open water planned in your itinerary and it's good idea to tackle those like a sea kayaker, ie..proper equipment: safety gear, definitely a VHF..etc. These things can add a significant amount of gear to your portages.

The areas that can be quite committed with questionable weather is heading out of McCargoe Cove, around Indian Pt toward Pickerel Cove, and most definitely Blake. However, the area in between Pick to Belle and Lane Cove is very nice and well protected.

Damon...

Damon S wrote: What kind of kayaks are you paddling?

You've got some fairly good open water planned in your itinerary and it's good idea to tackle those like a sea kayaker, ie..proper equipment: safety gear, definitely a VHF..etc. These things can add a significant amount of gear to your portages.

The areas that can be quite committed with questionable weather is heading out of McCargoe Cove, around Indian Pt toward Pickerel Cove, and most definitely Blake. However, the area in between Pick to Belle and Lane Cove is very nice and well protected.

We have a Carolina Perception 14.5 and a Dagger Catalyst 13.0 (with a rudder). They are both fairly decent on the open water, but all things equal, the Perception is a bit faster. I usually paddle the Perception since the wife likes the rudder. I've considered a rudder for the Perception but so far have been fine without it. We've got spray skirts for both, which are an absolute necessity IMO, as well as other safety gear like paddle floats, a hand pump, tow belt, etc. We don't have a VHF but will have to look into those or maybe see if we know anyone who we can borrow from. (All this gear is adding up $$$!)

Thanks for the tips.

Just curious, have you paddled that Dagger in rougher water because I know that multiple people I've spoke with find both of the hatches are notorious for leaking. Especially the stern hatch, and not just a little water....alot of water when the deck is awash. Make sure you have everything in dry bags.

No doubt the gear adds up and is expensive. I would consider adding a couple pencil flares and signaling equipment.

Have fun! The planning is half of the enjoyment anyway.

Damon....

Damon S wrote:Just curious, have you paddled that Dagger in rougher water because I know that multiple people I've spoke with find both of the hatches are notorious for leaking. Especially the stern hatch, and not just a little water....alot of water when the deck is awash. Make sure you have everything in dry bags.

Yep, we sure have, but I've never noticed any significant water in the hatches -- maybe a few drips but not really enough to pool in the bottom. Although I think I also have heard of people mentioning problems with those hatches, so I guess they should not be considered "waterproof". Nonetheless we usually put anything we absolutely don't want getting wet in dry bags.