Isle Royale Forums

So my father wants to go to Isle Royale for his first trip. I've been before, and based on my experience I recommended we take kayaks to make it easier on his knees than hiking all the hard rock trails.

Hes interested more in the fishing than hiking, so hes game for this. But we have two different trip ideas and I wanted some input from folks who know more than I do.

Trip will be taking place probably 3rd week in August, and we have two possible plans.

Plan 1
Rock harbor down to Moskey, spend some time fishing by Moskey Basin, Caribou and Cemetery islands, and if water permits go around to Chipawa harbor. From there do the portage to Whittlesey and follow the portage trail to Woodlake then Siskwit, Intermediate, Richie back to Chipawa harbor and catch the water taxi back to Rock Harbor.

He's not so sure about all those longer portage and would rather paddle and fish more.

Plan 2
Looking at paddling around Scoville point, doing the portage from Tobin harbor to duncan bay, or going around The Palisades, Portage from Duncan bay to Five Finger bay. Next portage over to Lane cove and head towards Belle Isle/Belle Harbor and into Pickerel Cove. Portage at Pickerel cove and head to McCargo Cove and take the boat that circles around the island from Minnesota back to Rock Harbor.

Heres a few things to figure into the plans.
Out of the boats we will have only 1 is a real sea kayak (mine). We will have a rec kayak with a spray skirt and dual bulkheads, and two SOTs. Only one paddler ranks as anything beyond beginner, but all of us are experienced woodsmen/backpackers. So sticking to sheltered waterways where we could duck in if things start to get hairy would be good. Both of these trips from the maps seem reasonable on that, with the exception of Moskey to Chippewa, or around the Palisades

Participants are going to be two younger guys in their 30s both very fit, and their fathers (early 60s and very active) Getting lots of views of the island and fishing are probably the two biggest parts that we're looking for.

My last trip to the Island went Rock Harbor to Daisy farm to Chicken Bone East, to Lake Richie, to Chipawa Harbor, as well as a few day trips to fish various lakes we could get to, so I have some experience with that part of the island.
Any input?

Hey Booyah, welcome to the forums!

With boats and experience you need to consider the least common denominator only--beginner in a SOT. That excludes all open areas. I wouldn't even consider paddling to Chippewa, around Scoville Pt, Blake Pt, or into McCargoe.

My first choice would be to do the north side--Belle Isle, Pickeral Cove, Lane Cove, Duncan Bay, and Duncan Narrows, all great spots. Plenty of good fishing in that area and places to explore. Belle Harbor itself is somewhat open to the lake and can get rough, but there's places to duck in or just wait things out. You have a number of options for getting there (and back):
- Take the Voyageur II from Grand Portage to Belle Isle. You could also get picked up there and spend a night in Rock Harbor on the way home, or suffer the portage from Duncan Bay to Tobin Harbor and leave straight from R.H.
- If you come from MI, use the water taxi to get to and/or from Belle Isle. I don't think one of their boats can handle 4 people and 4 boats though--you'd have to check with the lodge. (rockharborlodge.com use the winter number if you want to talk to them)
- The lodge has run a sightseeing tour, and water "bus" service, to McCargoe on Wednesdays, but the website has conflicting info--I think it may have been cancelled last year due to sequestration. Anyways, I would ask them if that's a possible more economical alternative to get to or from Belle Isle than the water taxi.
- And then there's the old fashioned way, portaging to/from. The only reason not to do it is the Tobin/Duncan portage, and doing it twice. My best advice is haul everything to the top of the ridge (either direction), take a good long rest, then haul everything down (assuming you need 2 trips, hopefully not more). Frankly I wouldn't portage kayaks over it without some kind of good yoke system, but it's been done. I'll figure 1.5-2.5 hrs when canoeing with 2 trips across, but have heard horror stories of 8 hrs (family kayaking with 2 small kids).

If none of the above work for you I would suggest a Rock Harbor/Moskey Basin trip. My daughter and I spent 9 days on Rock Harbor one trip--not planned, but due to a sprained ankle on the first day. I was pretty bummed at the prospect, but it was a great trip. It's a large body of water that can get nasty and could hold you up, but as you point out there's lots of options for staying put.

I'd strongly recommend having a VHF radio. They are usually better for the weather channels than the weather radios, in my experience, and provide emergency contact too. Have a great trip whatever you decide!

So Ingo,

We'll be coming over from Michigan (live in Lansing and in Grand Rapids) so the grand portage to belle isle isnt really an option...

Perhaps modify plan 1, with a rock harbor to daisy farm/moskey and rock harbor island hopping, then catch the Voyageur II out of Daisy farm to Chippawa Harbor?
Or possibly meet the SOTs in Chippewa Harbor if they wanted to, then do the rest of that trip?

How are the portages along that route? From most of the reports I am seeing here, the fishing is generally better on the inland lakes than the bays/harbors etc, so I'm digging that way.

I should add moose sightings would be a big big plus

If you are willing to catch a few more boats, you could ride to rock harbor catch the voyager the next day to chippewa, run the inland lake string over to mccargo and catch the voyager back to rock harbor then a boat home... this would be a day or so at each end waiting for a boat but could be used paddling around the harbor. Personally I dont like to do more than three half mile portages in the same day... or one longer portage. I also like to stay in the same place one day to fish or relax... its a vacation ... it sounds like your dad would enjoy that also.

Questions then, What I am thinking is something like

Take the boat from Copper Harbor to Rock harbor Saturday morning
Paddle around rock harbor and camp at either daisy farm or caribou island night 1
Sunday take Voyager II out of daisy farm to Chippewa Harbor, portage to Lake Whittlesey Stay at Lake Whittlesey camp ground night 2
Portage to Wood Lake and Siskiwit, fish there for a day or two, staying nights at lake Wood camp ground (Monday, maybe Tuesday)
Tuesday or Wednesday portage to Intermediate and maybe to Richie, stay at the canoe site on Richie

Thursday portage back to Chippawa
Friday catch a water taxi back to Rock Harbor
Saturday ride back to Copper Harbor

does that sound realistic from distances, portages, etc from those who have done this loop before?
I figure at any point we could just turn around and return the way we have gone if we feel like we will be too far from finishing.


Anyone have good info on those portages and in those directions? Thanks again, I appreciate any help we can get

You've got a great week planned; lots of fantastic fishing opportunities. Have you considered canoes? This route really is perfect for them. Easy to fish from and easier to portage than kayaks. They rent them in rock harbor with portage yokes.

The portage from Ritchie to Chippewa can be Brutal... Note the capital B. Mainly because it's long. Are you locked into needing to get back on Saturday? Would Sunday work? If so, you could take the inland water route like you planned, but instead of dropping back south to Chippewa, go from Ritchie up through the chain to Chickenbone for a night, then McCargoe Cove, where you could arrange a pickup on Saturday (other option is Wed) that could wrap you around to Rock Harbor. (Lucky Chicken proposed this.) Chickenbone also tends to be a great fishing lake.

The portage between Siskiwit to Intermediate is about as easy and comfortable as they come. The rest are hit or miss; certainly some elevation changes and rocks to walk on, but provided the trails are clear they are fine. Siskiwit is the only area that could give you pause, if the winds are blowing down her length she can really start rolling, and you'd be taking that on the beam. There are some islands that provide some protection, but there are places you'll still need to cross in the open.

Another thing I would think about based on what you are trying to do that would allow you to skip having to get an expensive water taxi is to hit Rock Harbor and stay there and sort of reverse your route; hitting Caribou area on the way back. Take Voyageur around to Chippewa and follow your route, but portage from Richie to Moskey hitting Caribou and paddling back to Rock Harbor. Both portages are tough, but the water taxi adds a lot of cost and this would get you close to the same experience and add Moskey. Below is the stats on both portages:

That plan is plenty doable. And what everyone else has said. There's almost too many ways you could do this, you just have to weigh what you think will work best for you, particularly how much portaging you all are up to. I don't know how much it will help, but here's a trip report from McCargoe to Chippewa that overlaps some. Not too much detail on the portages, but I log the times (fairly accurately), so that may give you some idea. http://moskeybasin.com/Isle_Royale/IR_Log_2002.html

Thanks everyone

I think I will take the Richie to Moskey idea to heart. Saves the water taxi ride, and gives us fresh trail/water, with a bit more time on the water under our own paddles.

Not too worried about Siskwit, I respect these lakes, never fear, but I've spent enough time in my yak to know my abilities. It sounds like the SOT yaks may be bowing out, so we're looking at one sea kayak, and one to two reasonably setup rec boats (F/R flotation, skirts etc)

The last trip to the Island I didnt bother much on the planning just being happy to go, and I think we could have seen more, done more and been more comfortable had we planned more. Last trip went something like RH to 3 mile, to Chicken Bone East, to Lake Richie, to Chippewa Harbor water taxi back to RH. Saw a lot of sights, but spent the better part of 3 days at Chippewa, and 3mile to CBE can be a LONG day.