Isle Royale Forums

I just joined the forum. Have been reading post for the last few days. I though I would introduce myself and ask my first questions.

I have been to IR once before, about 30 years ago with my wife just after we were married. We stayed at one of the housekeeping cabins at the RH Lodge. I recall taking the hike out to Scoville Pt. and the tour to Raspberry Island. One day we took the Voyager II down to Daisy Farm and hiked back via Mt Ojibway. We also rented a canoe and paddled around Tobin Harbor, including the hike up to Louise Lookout. Saw lots of moose and wolf tracks (there were more back then). Had a great trip and always wanted to get back. Now that I have started backpacking, it would seem the obvious destination to start planing for.

I have been on at least one backpacking trip each summer for the past few years. Last year I hiked the length of PRNL (Grand Marais to Munising 45 miles in 4 days). The year before I did 50 miles in 4 days on the AT near Roanoke VA. I've also done some weekend hikes (North Manitou Island and the Manistee River Loop). I usually cover 12 to 18 mpd. At PRNL that was pretty easy - would have hiked more, but was limited to staying at specific campgrounds. VA was pretty tough, but each day had a few thousand feet of elevation gain and loss - very different than MI. I keep my gear to a minimum (14 lbs, not including food/water). So I've started to think how to plan my IR trip. My work schedule would allow for a week in early/mid June or Aug. But it's a one day drive (500 miles) to the Keweenaw and one day on the boat each way, so that's 4 days for transportation, leaving three or four days for hiking. My first question is what transportation options would be best. From what I've read so far, here are the options I'm considering.

1. Take the Ranger III (Tue-Sat for three days of hiking or Fri-Wed for four days of hiking). But with it's late afternoon arrival and early morning departure, it would seem my last night would have to be at RH and my first night couldn't be much further away than Three Mile. If you are arriving/departing on the Ranger, what do you do on your first and last nights?

2. Take the IR Queen from CH. With its more frequent sailing, mid day arrival, and mid afternoon departure I have a lot more scheduling options. I could get an extra half day or so of hiking in on the arrival and departure day, so the first or last nights could be at Daisy Farm or Lane Cove, or maybe further? If you are arriving/departing on the IR Queen, what do you do on your first and last nights? Any compelling reason to take the Ranger out of Houghton?

3. Take the IR Queen from CH and then the Voyager II the next day to Malone Bay or Windigo and hike back to RH. This would get me to parts of the island I couldn't see on a loop hike from RH, but I have another half day on the boat and a half day to kill in RH the day I arrive. It would seem I could do the Greenstone Ridge Trail from Windigo with 4 days on the island, but probably not the Minong Ridge. I note that this plan would not work with the Ranger III as the Voyageur never leaves RH the day after the Ranger arrives. Would you say that taking the Voyageur to Malone Bay or Windigo be worth the extra time, money, and trouble?

Sorry for the long post. I'm sure I will have more questions. Thanks in advance for any advice. I certainly enjoy discussing hikes.

It sounds like you have the options down pretty well. I've taken all 3 boats and the seaplane and my usual preference is the Voyageur II because it circumnavigates and the options that offers. If you're committed to leaving from the U.P., I think the Queen is probably your best option for the reasons you mention. A couple of other options to throw out, just to confuse things :
- Taking the VII and/or Seahunter from Grand Portage. If you would otherwise use the VII on the island, the extra driving may be worth it. The Seahunter only goes to Windigo, but you don't have to come/go on the same boat.
- The seaplane . I loved it! But I usually have a canoe... It goes to both R.H. and Windigo, on demand. That trip was kinda a gift to myself and I only had a few days.
- You may also want to look into the water taxi run by the R.H. lodge. They run as far as McCargoe Cove on the north, and either Chippewa Harbor or Malone Bay on the south (don't remember if they'll go to Malone or not). Pricey for 1, but some folks have hooked up here and shared the cost.

I worked in R.H. the summer of '79 and didn't get back until 2000, so I relate to your situation. Now I try to make it back every year that I can, even though it's 1300 miles away. Have a great trip! (you will)

Seaplane. 1 hour from Houghton? 35 minutes? I don't remember, but not long, plus multiple departure time options. You can easily beat the mob of people from the boat lining up to register, and be out on the trail much earlier. Plus choose which end of the island for both arrival and departure. So it's really flexible, plus you don't need to allow a day each way to get out there.

I've taken the Queen twice, and got horribly sick on one leg of the journey, both times. So between rough seas and the number of hours involved, the seaplane is much better for me. Not that you aren't at the whim of the weather, though. I've never taken the Ranger, but that takes even longer (although it is said to be a smoother ride).

Downsides of the seaplane: you have you buy your fuel when you get out there, potential weather issues, and timelines are somewhat fuzzy

If using the smaller Queen, how long is the wait from arrival (11:30 AM?) to hitting the trail, given the wait for registration and the LNT lecture?

Was wondering about sea sickness on the Queen. My boat ride to North Manitou was really bad. I didn't get sick but everyone else did. I was on the open deck in the pouring rain, which ironically probably helped with the seasickness. The people in the stuffy cabin were really suffering. At least it was short. I just wrapped myself in a plastic garbage bag for 75 minutes and it was over.

Not sure I can justify the cost of the plane ($186 extra RT). Plus I use an alcohol stove. I gather alcohol is not available on IR. Do they sell isobutane canisters or just white gas for stoves? I'd rather not have to buy another stove.

Daisy Farm and Three Mile don't seem to be very well reviewed. Is Lane Cove a reasonable option for the first night after getting off the boat?

odd man out wrote:If using the smaller Queen, how long is the wait from arrival (11:30 AM?) to hitting the trail, given the wait for registration and the LNT lecture?

Can't say for sure, since the one time I took it we stayed at the lodge, but can't imagine it would be too long, maybe 1/2 hr at the most?

odd man out wrote:Was wondering about sea sickness on the Queen.

If you don't get seasick when others are, you're probably fine! The old Queen III had a horrible reputation, nicknamed the barf barge, but the new Queen IV is much, much better. The Ranger III is going to be the most stable, regardless, but the ride is almost twice as long.

odd man out wrote:I gather alcohol is not available on IR. Do they sell isobutane canisters or just white gas for stoves? I'd rather not have to buy another stove.

Contact Forever Resorts for a definitive answer http://www.rockharborlodge.com. They do sell isobutane and white gas.

odd man out wrote:Daisy Farm and Three Mile don't seem to be very well reviewed. Is Lane Cove a reasonable option for the first night after getting off the boat?

Nice campgrounds, just larger and busier than most. But remember it's all relative, anywhere is great. I was at Daisy Farm the end of July with 3 parties once, hardly knew anyone else was there. And perhaps the most obnoxious neighbors at W Chickenbone. You never know. But folks do do Lane Cove the first night--not sure I'd be up for it myself.

Having poured over maps and schedules, I am coming to the conclusion that the optimal distance to hike on any given day would depend on when I start, the weather, the terrain, my energy level, injuries, mood, etc.... In other words, it is impossible to really know for sure. I am thinking that my best plan may be to not have much of a plan. Get off the queen at noonish and start hiking in the direction of a campground. When I get there, check to see how far it is to the next one and ask myself if I want to go there. If yes, then do it. Repeat until the answer is no. Do the same every day until departure day, just make sure you get back to the dock on time. Anyone ever use this strategy?

odd man out wrote: Anyone ever use this strategy?

In a way, yes. Many of us take advantage of the fact that provided you're not a registered group, you can vary your itinerary as you see fit. I always know the general route I wish to take, but then see how things are going as the trip progresses. That's mainly weather. This really works best on the eastern side of the Isle, though; the west doesn't quite have the same opportunity, with perhaps the exception of Island Mine being "bypass-able" or choosing between Washington Creek and Hugginin.
I'll take advantage of a day that might be "perfect hiking weather" and bypass a camp if I know less desirable weather might be blowing in, and then find myself at a site with shelters for that day, since it's much easier to wait out rain in those.
I will say if you start heading toward Lane Cove, (which you should have no problem making on the day of arrival) that's really a 'stick with it' decision for the day. However, the following day, you can hike from there to the tower, drop the pack, enjoy the sun and breeze, and ask, "Ok. Where next?" Daisy? Moskey? Chickenbone? Threemile? Ritchie?
The east center of the Isle has enough camps to make that possible.

The only things I'll chime in on: I'd take the Queen over the Ranger for the time issue and I agree with Tom; Lane Cove is easily reachable on day one...the hike back out really gets the heart pumping first thing.


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odd man out, welcome to the forums. Thanks for joining and posting.

I'm glad Isle Royale has called you back to her. I'm sure she's missed you as much as you've missed her.

I've never taken any of the boats out of Michigan, so cannot speak to which option is better. All I can do is give you my two cents on campgrounds and routes.

All your options are viable. They are also flexible, since you aren't in a group. Feel free to change your trip en route however you deem fit, and just be sure to file an updated itinerary with the Rangers before you leave IR.

As many have said, Lane Cove is do-able from Rock Harbor day one. You'll have a moderate hike up to the Greenstone, but from here and down into Lane Cove, it's a piece of cake. Now, as others have once again mentioned, the hike OUT of Lane Cove is a bear.

I would not recommend going to Rock, then taking the VII to Windigo the next day. That's a lot of time on a boat for little rewards: this stretch of the Greenstone is rather uneventful. Besides, if you do a cost-comparison of taking the Ranger or Queen plus the VII, wouldn't the cost get closer to the cost of the seaplane?

Going to Malone Bay on the VII the next day is a nice option, but it has caveats. I like this option the most because it gets me away from the Rock Harbor area. The Rock Harbor area is beautiful, but depending on when you're there, it can be busy. I prefer being away from crowds. However, this would be a tough trip: first, the hike from Malone up to the Greenstone is tough and boring at times (yes, Isle Royale can get boring...it's rare, though). Once on the Greenstone, you'd have to stay at Hatchet Lake. Similar to Lane Cove, the hike *down to* Hatchet Lake is easy, but the hike out is tough. Plus, Hatchet Lake is only an OK campground. You could try to push the 18.2 miles from Malone to West Chickenbone, but that's would be a very tiring day. The trip pays off from Chickenbone and on, however, because you can stay at Malone Bay and then Three Mile (better than Rock Harbor, but not great).

If you do decide to stick around the Rock Harbor area, your mileage may vary. If you go in June, it could be quieter and less-busy, so your experience will be a little more enjoyable. However, if you go in August, it will be busy and you may not enjoy your time as much, since you'll be rubbing elbows and fighting for camp sites on much of the east end of the island. If you do Rock, head to Lane Cove, then back to Three Mile. Base camp out of Three Mile and explore all the great things on that end of the island: Mount Ojibway, Lookout Louise, etc.

You've got good options planned, and from here, its all about what you want to do, really. Let us know which trip you pick!

OK, I crunched some numbers on a couple of your options for transportation. These numbers are based off of the prices I found in the 2016 Greenstone and is NOT from the services themselves; these are only ball-park prices. For exact prices, contact the offices that run each service.

Seaplane from Houghton to Windigo, round-trip: $310
Ranger III from Houghton to Rock, round-trip: $126
Queen IV from Copper to Rock: $124
VII from Rock to Malone: $53
VII from Rock to Windigo: $66

So, then, your options of going from Houghton/Copper to Rock to Malone or Windigo would cost approx. $179 or $192, respectively. That's only approx. $120 difference than taking the seaplane. Plus, you'd save a day of being on a boat: that's worth the price difference right there, not factoring in the amazing experience of taking a seaplane to Isle Royale (something I've always wanted to do).

You'll still run into a problem with your alcohol stove and fuel if you fly. This has been discussed a bit here: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2855&p=19186&hilit= ... ove#p19186

Thanks. I posted this suggestion on the alcohol stove thread. HEET gas line antifreeze (yellow bottle) would be a good item for them to stock, so start making that suggestion. I have no interest in a white gas stoves. Might consider isobutane canister stoves. Can I assume this fuel is available at RH and Windigo?

Isobutane is available


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