Isle Royale Forums

Last summer was my first trip to the Island, and I kept it simple: I skittered along the Greenstone Ridge Trail from Windigo to Rock Harbor, with detours to overnight at Hatchet Lake and Lane Cove. Along with the ridgier parts of the Greenstone Ridge, I liked the detours -- especially the one that dead-ended at Lane Cove -- the best.

It seems like the stars might align for a mid-May trip, boating into and out of Rock Harbor, this year. On the hypothesis that I like dead-end trails and crossing the grain of the island's corduroy, I'm thinking of visiting Chippewa Harbor, Malone Bay, and (time, etc., permitting, and even though it's not a dead-end) Todd Harbor. My questions:

1. Does it seem right that if I liked the walks to Hatchet Lake and Lane Cove, I'll like the walks to Chippewa Harbor and Malone Bay?

2. Favorite campgrounds along the routes I'm considering?

3. What do I need to know about early-season visits? I'm guessing that the bugs won't be bad, and the nights will be chilly. Will mud wallows and deadfall be an issue?

4. Even setting mud wallows and deadfall to one side, I'm expecting the miles to come with more difficulty in May along the trails I'd be taking than they did in June along the Greenstone. Do you have advice about how to calibrate my expectations about rates of progress, suffering, and so on?

5. Not sure how exactly to ask this: is it CREEPY on the Island in May? Should I brace myself for campgrounds that not only are deserted, but feel like they've been deserted for awhile? Or animals resentful that the annual invasion has begun?

6. As always, is there something I shoudl be asking that I haven't thought of?

Thanks!

1. Does it seem right that if I liked the walks to Hatchet Lake and Lane Cove, I'll like the walks to Chippewa Harbor and Malone Bay?
Hatchet Lake and Lane Cove share similarities in being somewhat "tight and cozy" nestled into their areas, and also have steep hillsides to climb out the following morning. Malone and Chippewa are different that way; they are on the south side of the Greenstone and therefore the path into them is less steep. Both are gorgeous, though. Way more to do and explore around each Malone and Chippewa than Lane and Hatchet, in my opinion. The one thing I'm not sure you'd like is the walk OUT of Malone, since you need to return to Rock Harbor. While the hike out of Lane Cove is a leg burner vertically, once you're done, you're done. For Malone, there is nearly a four mile stretch that is generally a slow glide up hill, and early season, can be a bit harder to pick the trail out of the open areas. Some places have cairns. I'm a big fan of Malone being a pick up point.

2. Favorite campgrounds along the routes I'm considering?
Can't go wrong with McCargoe, Moskey, or Chippewa!

3. What do I need to know about early-season visits? I'm guessing that the bugs won't be bad, and the nights will be chilly. Will mud wallows and deadfall be an issue?
Bugs tend to be light. Days are getting long. Nights are cold. Vegetation is just starting up. Deadfalls depend on when trail crews get out and about, but by mid-May, things are normally getting pretty cleared. Mud depends on how much winter snow and spring rains the Island sees. Streams can often be flowing at a better pace, but 'trail mud' sometimes can be better because not as many boots have loosened up the holes.

4. Even setting mud wallows and deadfall to one side, I'm expecting the miles to come with more difficulty in May along the trails I'd be taking than they did in June along the Greenstone. Do you have advice about how to calibrate my expectations about rates of progress, suffering, and so on?
Actually, I find that time of year to be my fastest pace. The cooler, lower humidity air tends to make it easier for me to put on miles without getting worn out. Other than trails like Minong, which can be hard to route-find when there is no vegetation, the others are easier when all the undergrowth hasn't filled in, slowing your legs and making it thick or hard to see your feet.

5. Not sure how exactly to ask this: is it CREEPY on the Island in May? Should I brace myself for campgrounds that not only are deserted, but feel like they've been deserted for awhile? Or animals resentful that the annual invasion has begun?
Nah, once the first boat has begun, the island wakes up. Sure, it will be quiet, but when you do come to camp and find another hiker or two, don't be surprised to hear stories that it's their 20th or 30th time to the island. Only if you ride the 'first boat' do you get that sense of "nobody has been around here in a long while" sensation. I once stepped off the first boat in Rock Harbor to find it completely deserted - No rangers nor lodge folks yet; and it was still all locked up. Now THAT was a bit eerie.

6. As always, is there something I shoudl be asking that I haven't thought of?
Personally, unless necessary, I'm not a huge fan of backtracking.. And the islands trails tend to make great combinations of loops. (This is different, though, from walking a trail in the opposite direction - Which can give a whole new perspective.) The month of May can also be a great time to enjoy some of the camps that can get a bad rap for being "busy" during the heavier seasons - Daisy Farm, Threemile, and Rock Harbor all have something to offer, and can be awesome places to camp, especially when quiet.

I love going to the island in May--no bugs and cool hiking weather. Be prepared for cold nights, maybe very cold; you never know. Also, vistas may be nicer before full leaf out. Have you considered adding McCargo to your trip--direct hike to and from Todd. It will give you an easy taste of the Minong. My only caution is the hike to Malone. I like the campsite, but it is a fairly long hike and the hike itself is not that interesting. Once there, it is great. That early in the season, the trail may be hard to pick up in places, so take your time

Thanks -- this is very helpful! The way the early season ferry schedule meshes with mine makes a Malone dismount impractical. So I'm thinking I'll save Malone for some hoped-for later trip when ferry extraction is feasible, and aim this time to visit Chippewa and Todd Harbor, looping back via the Minong through McCargo and maybe even experiencing one of the busy camps near RH at low season.

Here's hoping this really comes off! If it does, I'll post one of my patented longer-than-the-trip-itself trip reports.