Paddling Inner Lakes, Sep. 10-16
Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 4:26 pm
Pics are here: http://travel.webshots.com/album/567133245aVZsjU (The album is combined with a few shots of a recent Superior Hiking Trail trip with my dog).
We (my father and I) drove up and ate awesome tacos in Grand Marais, then stayed at Ryden's for the first time and I still can't get over the price. Friendly people too.
Smooth ride on the Voyageur. Dropped off and spent the first night at McCargo Cove. Hiked to the Minong Mine and ridgetop immediately above it. Wonderful relaxing time paddling the cove in the evening (We brought two kayaks: a 12 ft. Wilderness Systems Tsunami and an 11 ft. Necky Manitou). Very peaceful night, met lots of nice and interesting people there.
Day 2 we portaged to Chickenbone Lake, set up camp at west campground just in time to beat five hours of rain. Felt sad for all those hiking in that mess. Read and napped in tent until cabin fever forced us outside, first in small bursts and finally in a screw- the-rain-we're-fishing attitude. Caught some northerns and walleye. We ate the walleye.
Day 3 we did 3 portages to get to Lake Richie, through Lakes LeSage and Livermore, both beautiful bodies of water. None of the portages were too bad, although we were wearing down by the last one. Thimbleberries energized us. We fished from shore with little luck, too windy to try it from the boats. We sat on the point watching moonrise and stars appear. Well after dark, we heard a canoe coming across the lake, saw headlamps sweeping the shore in search of our campground, so I signaled back with my headlamp. These two young gentlemen who had portaged from Moskey Basin were the last people we would see until Chippewa Harbor. Heard distant howling of wolves at night, loons laughing all over the lake.
Day 4 began with an extended howling of wolves while I filtered water, much closer than the previous evening. We portaged in and out of Intermediate Lake, and the first one kicked me hard. On the second one a wolf followed us (we could see fresh scat as we walked back on the trail). As I was packing the boat on the shore of Siskiwit Lake I looked up to see him approach within 10-15 yards, urinate on a tree, and disappear into the forest. My hands shook and my heart thumped and raced. Unbelievable sight. Dumbfounded and awestruck, we finished loading the boats. What a scenic paddle on Siskiwit Lake, through all the rocky islands on its east shores. Light rains and windy at Wood Lake, so we decided to stay out of Siskiwit, but Wood Lake was more protected and I fished from the kayak while Dad tried the deep channel by the campsite. I caught some pike and released them before rain sent me paddling for the tent. Wind roared through the evening and I felt bad for anyone contemplating travel on Lake Superior. I was dreaming of bullfrog noises when I woke to realize I was hearing a constant grunting and splashing from a moose near the campsite.
Day 5 and we portaged to Lake Whittlesey. Knowing it would be the only portage of the day seemed to make it go easier. The wind was still strong, paddling into it on Whittlesey. I heard a splash about twenty yards behind my boat and saw a young moose charging into the water, frolicking with its mom right behind her. We slowed the boats and drifted around to watch, the big cow eyeing us until she turned around and her young one followed her back up the bank. We set up camp and the wind was still blowing across the lake, more or less east to west, so I paddled to the east end and drifted back, fishing along the way, with some fun luck with pike around the big long island. Dad had luck with pike too, fishing from shore. We both let our fish go to fight another day. It's such a gorgeous lake, as they all are in their own way.
Day 6 and the last portage, although just as long as the others, rocky, rooty and hilly, seemed like a breeze. We must have been getting used to the work. "Another week of this and we'll have arms like Popeye," I said. The paddle through the coves and across the main section of Chippewa Harbor was overwhelming for scenery. A headwind on this one too. We met a very nice sailor named Mike on the docks--he had been sheltered from the wind there but left for Rock Harbor the next morning. We hiked the shore, then walked to Lake Mason, although the trail doesn't really lead all the way to the lake, from what I could tell. We had a wonderful dinner of Ramen and dried beans and watched the sun go down. Squirrels by the shelter aggressively begged for my peanuts.
Day 7 and the Voyageur picked us up right on time. Met lots of great people on the boat, some of whom we had arrived with. Great seeing them again. Traded stories etc. 5-6 ft. waves across the lake. What a fun ride from the back of the boat. I was plenty wet when we were done.
Closing thoughts: Why would I ever stay at the casino again, now that I've been to Ryden's?
I've backpacked the island (western half) several times, and this is my second time paddling it. I can't get over how thrilling it was paddling these beautiful lakes, such a different way to experience the island. Each time I climbed into the boat I was overwhelmed gliding through such scenery. It makes the labor of portaging worth it, and portaging wasn't too tough anyway, once we got used to it. It seemed to get easier every day. And paddling is an easy way to get into some remote areas of the island.
I did a backpacking trip with my son and his friend earlier this summer and to complete the circle my father came along on this trip. Good times! Great way to spend time with family.
Taking pictures from a boat is hopeless. At least for me.
Because we had boats, I bought a couple really light, short, mesh lawn chairs from REI. So worth it.
We (my father and I) drove up and ate awesome tacos in Grand Marais, then stayed at Ryden's for the first time and I still can't get over the price. Friendly people too.
Smooth ride on the Voyageur. Dropped off and spent the first night at McCargo Cove. Hiked to the Minong Mine and ridgetop immediately above it. Wonderful relaxing time paddling the cove in the evening (We brought two kayaks: a 12 ft. Wilderness Systems Tsunami and an 11 ft. Necky Manitou). Very peaceful night, met lots of nice and interesting people there.
Day 2 we portaged to Chickenbone Lake, set up camp at west campground just in time to beat five hours of rain. Felt sad for all those hiking in that mess. Read and napped in tent until cabin fever forced us outside, first in small bursts and finally in a screw- the-rain-we're-fishing attitude. Caught some northerns and walleye. We ate the walleye.
Day 3 we did 3 portages to get to Lake Richie, through Lakes LeSage and Livermore, both beautiful bodies of water. None of the portages were too bad, although we were wearing down by the last one. Thimbleberries energized us. We fished from shore with little luck, too windy to try it from the boats. We sat on the point watching moonrise and stars appear. Well after dark, we heard a canoe coming across the lake, saw headlamps sweeping the shore in search of our campground, so I signaled back with my headlamp. These two young gentlemen who had portaged from Moskey Basin were the last people we would see until Chippewa Harbor. Heard distant howling of wolves at night, loons laughing all over the lake.
Day 4 began with an extended howling of wolves while I filtered water, much closer than the previous evening. We portaged in and out of Intermediate Lake, and the first one kicked me hard. On the second one a wolf followed us (we could see fresh scat as we walked back on the trail). As I was packing the boat on the shore of Siskiwit Lake I looked up to see him approach within 10-15 yards, urinate on a tree, and disappear into the forest. My hands shook and my heart thumped and raced. Unbelievable sight. Dumbfounded and awestruck, we finished loading the boats. What a scenic paddle on Siskiwit Lake, through all the rocky islands on its east shores. Light rains and windy at Wood Lake, so we decided to stay out of Siskiwit, but Wood Lake was more protected and I fished from the kayak while Dad tried the deep channel by the campsite. I caught some pike and released them before rain sent me paddling for the tent. Wind roared through the evening and I felt bad for anyone contemplating travel on Lake Superior. I was dreaming of bullfrog noises when I woke to realize I was hearing a constant grunting and splashing from a moose near the campsite.
Day 5 and we portaged to Lake Whittlesey. Knowing it would be the only portage of the day seemed to make it go easier. The wind was still strong, paddling into it on Whittlesey. I heard a splash about twenty yards behind my boat and saw a young moose charging into the water, frolicking with its mom right behind her. We slowed the boats and drifted around to watch, the big cow eyeing us until she turned around and her young one followed her back up the bank. We set up camp and the wind was still blowing across the lake, more or less east to west, so I paddled to the east end and drifted back, fishing along the way, with some fun luck with pike around the big long island. Dad had luck with pike too, fishing from shore. We both let our fish go to fight another day. It's such a gorgeous lake, as they all are in their own way.
Day 6 and the last portage, although just as long as the others, rocky, rooty and hilly, seemed like a breeze. We must have been getting used to the work. "Another week of this and we'll have arms like Popeye," I said. The paddle through the coves and across the main section of Chippewa Harbor was overwhelming for scenery. A headwind on this one too. We met a very nice sailor named Mike on the docks--he had been sheltered from the wind there but left for Rock Harbor the next morning. We hiked the shore, then walked to Lake Mason, although the trail doesn't really lead all the way to the lake, from what I could tell. We had a wonderful dinner of Ramen and dried beans and watched the sun go down. Squirrels by the shelter aggressively begged for my peanuts.
Day 7 and the Voyageur picked us up right on time. Met lots of great people on the boat, some of whom we had arrived with. Great seeing them again. Traded stories etc. 5-6 ft. waves across the lake. What a fun ride from the back of the boat. I was plenty wet when we were done.
Closing thoughts: Why would I ever stay at the casino again, now that I've been to Ryden's?
I've backpacked the island (western half) several times, and this is my second time paddling it. I can't get over how thrilling it was paddling these beautiful lakes, such a different way to experience the island. Each time I climbed into the boat I was overwhelmed gliding through such scenery. It makes the labor of portaging worth it, and portaging wasn't too tough anyway, once we got used to it. It seemed to get easier every day. And paddling is an easy way to get into some remote areas of the island.
I did a backpacking trip with my son and his friend earlier this summer and to complete the circle my father came along on this trip. Good times! Great way to spend time with family.
Taking pictures from a boat is hopeless. At least for me.
Because we had boats, I bought a couple really light, short, mesh lawn chairs from REI. So worth it.
