Isle Royale Forums

I’m trying to figure out whether i’ve got any realistic options for sea kayaking the island this summer.

I’ve always been interested in paddling around IR, and besides, this year I’m all dressed up with noplace to go. I’d been planning to do a 3-week deep wilderness paddle in Quebec .. pandemic says think again.

As the ferries aren’t running and the seaplane company could offer neither direct nor indirect help, I read the recent thread about chartering a boat to get out there. Answer posts as of July 1 were not encouraging.

Any advice, suggestions, brainstorms etc. are welcome and solicited.

I'll be blunt. I think your options are very limited if existent at all, short of the ferry services returning to some form of limited service. I even looked up if you could ship your kayak via USPS, but using some random dimensions it would appear too large.

I can only think of two legitimate methods to get to the Isle right now for your trip:

1. A friend with a boat who can take you there... and I truly mean a friend. Even how you split the gas could come under question, as the minute any money could be considered making the trip "for hire" crosses the line into commercial activity; requiring captains licenses, inspections, and probably a concessionaire contract with NPS. Crossing that line invokes the USCG, DOT, and NPS.. and probably a bunch of other acronyms.

2. Paddle. Seriously; you don't specifically mention your experience but if you own a true sea kayak and have used it/trained in rolling waves, it's not impossible to paddle to IR, coming from Minnesota. (This is the part where I feel compelled to caution random people reading this thread to think, "Hey, maybe I can do that too! Great idea!" Please. Be smart. Be safe. This is only for experienced big water kayakers. It would be helpful if you started some of your paddle conversations around the fire with "When I was up paddling through the Aleutian Islands...")
All the regular safety rules apply, including letting others know of your intent, having communications gear, etc. If you get lucky it might line up with a day Capt Don is making a mail run, so at least you'll know there might be one boat in the area.

A complicating factor of any circumnavigation trip (or distance trip) then becomes resupply, because all of those regular methods have been impacted, as well.

Unfortunately, I think it's a rough year for all of us in terms of getting our island fix.. I fear that this "we're open, yet you can't get here" scenario could lead to a wild west of private boaters (probably not the IR regulars or legit fishing charters) thinking they can make a quick buck taking a few folks out or back or worse, folks looking at a map and thinking, "Gee, maybe we SHOULD try paddling out there, if that's the only way" and pushing their luck. Let's hope none of that happens, and IR can get back to normal as soon as safely possible.

Only suggestion I have is to hire somebody to take you. I'm sure you can find somebody in Grand Marais who might do it. Maybe even in Copper Harbor from the Michigan side. I have no idea what the Park Service would say. But this is America, and there's no stopping folks from making a buck.

Thanks, Tom and treeplanter. I suspected as much, but wanted to exhaust other options before considering the paddle, which I'd do from the vicinity of Grand Portage.

I have enough stamina and big water skills that I am *cautiously* considering the crossing. I have enough experience on Superior (not a vast amount, but plenty enough to respect the lady) that I'm not ruling it out entirely. However I'd prefer to get a ride some of the distance out there and back, even if a boater would need to drop me a few miles short of the island to avoid legal trouble. (That's an issue I'd never have expected ... the things I learn during the pandemic.)

Would you or anyone else have any thoughts on how I might go about looking around for a boat ride in Grand Marais, or Grand Portage for that matter? Community or FB groups, anything? I ask mainly because I'd be driving two days each way to reach that part of Minnesota in the first place, so I'd essentially be risking a week of vacation to get out there and have the whole trip come to nothing if water conditions don't permit me the self-powered option.

Have you considered Voyageurs NP as an alternative? It's open, no logistics, and plenty of water. I haven't been, but was supposed to be last week--decided not to do the road trip there and back from NC due to covid concerns.

Tom wrote: Thu Jul 02, 2020 7:18 amIf you get lucky it might line up with a day Capt Don is making a mail run, so at least you'll know there might be one boat in the area.

The Voyageur II mail service is still operating? Maybe you could mail the kayak? I'm just kidding (I think).

I was going to post pretty much similar comments as Tom so I won't repeat it. I'm feeling a bit like those Amazon reviewers that post something to the effect of, "I don't know". Geez that always infuriates me.

I think the park boundary extends 5 miles into the Lake.

I suggest you look into a kayak trip throughout the Keweenaw Peninsula Water Trail. The experience would be very similar as Isle Royale. The geology is identical (and then-some) as is the much of the flora and fauna. There's plenty of Thimble berries as well (when in season). And then of course there is the Lake. Not to mention you're closer to a few pockets of civilization and good hospitality (if your choose to partake). Remote camping should be easy and plentiful as there are several public easements and nature areas (there's a link to the Keweenaw Land Trust in the above website). There's also state and county parks, plus a lot of commercial land. Even the private lands are much more accessible and more remote than one would imagine. Additional info's at Western U.P. Water Trail and Paddle Lake Superior. If you think you're interested I (and I think a few others here) can offer additional ideas.

Actually, Ingo’s suggestion of Voyageurs National Park is a great idea! I did a number of kayak camping trips there before I took my kayak to Isle Royale. And, this may be a plus or minus depending on your perspective, but you plan and reserve your itinerary ahead of time and pay for the campsites, but there is no entry fee otherwise. Circumnavigating the Kabatogama Peninsula would make a good leisurely 6-day trip with short days, and plenty of time for exploring after setting up camp (or a manageable slog against a bad wind, since you have no flexibility in your campsites).

apostle Islands might be another option, also requiring campsite reservations.

The apostle islands are closed for the season for overnight camping. I talked to one of the guides who runs kayak trips from Bayfield and he is going on a trip in September with a couple buddies for a couple weeks. He said it’s only a 16 mile paddle across. I wished him luck. The time I took the ferry in September, we had 4-6’ waves on the way over. The ferry cancelled our return trip and picked us up the next day for a 8’+ wave crossing. And the forecast predicted gale force winds all week. If you go, make sure to bring enough food. Or know how to field dress a moose and brush up on those winter camping skills .

Midwest Ed wrote: Thu Jul 02, 2020 4:32 pm

Tom wrote: Thu Jul 02, 2020 7:18 amIf you get lucky it might line up with a day Capt Don is making a mail run, so at least you'll know there might be one boat in the area.

The Voyageur II mail service is still operating? Maybe you could mail the kayak? I'm just kidding (I think).

FYI I did check on this. The Voyageur II is not taking either passengers or cargo this season. Which is too bad, as I would have sent my kayak over and taken the seaplane. A pity .. if they’d both run according to their usual schedules I could have arrived within an hour of the boat. (sigh)

Ingo wrote: Thu Jul 02, 2020 12:51 pm Have you considered Voyageurs NP as an alternative? It's open, no logistics, and plenty of water. I haven't been, but was supposed to be last week--decided not to do the road trip there and back from NC due to covid concerns.

I paddled Voyageurs a few years back and it was indeed lovely. My only gripe was the astonishing number of noisy houseboats. Apparently you can rent them and take them anywhere in the park. Lots of people did.

chad9477 wrote: Sun Jul 05, 2020 10:23 pm

Ingo wrote: Thu Jul 02, 2020 12:51 pm Have you considered Voyageurs NP as an alternative? It's open, no logistics, and plenty of water. I haven't been, but was supposed to be last week--decided not to do the road trip there and back from NC due to covid concerns.

I paddled Voyageurs a few years back and it was indeed lovely. My only gripe was the astonishing number of noisy houseboats. Apparently you can rent them and take them anywhere in the park. Lots of people did.

My brother, who went with a replacement for me, said it felt like a strange mix of the BWCA and a KOA--esp on the west end of Rainy Lake, but got quieter as they got farther east. Too bad people can't go and enjoy the quiet of the woods, even if on a houseboat.

We stayed on a houseboat on Namakan Lake (VOYA) for three nights last summer. Nothing like you describe. It was quiet and very relaxing and we saw/interacted with fewer people than we did the three nights we spent on ISRO the following week.

With a kayak you can get into back bays and such, avoiding much of the houseboat traffic. If you follow the main route buoy-to-buoy, you will be in with houseboats. Campsites are separate.

Another option to consider is a fold-able kayak. I didn't see anywhere in reviewing your comments that cost is a restrictive issue. I hear fold-ables are much nicer now but I'm not a user. Quick research of one that I checked showed specs of 33in x 12in x 29in @ 36 lb for a 16 ft sea kayak with 400 lb capacity. Shorter ones were available. Certainly one of these will fit inside the plane. Do they make collapsible paddles I wonder?

I’ve thought about that, and it might work if the seaplane co will take excess baggage for a fee. They have a weight limit that would allow a backpack, but not my feathercraft folding kayak, and you would still need all your camping gear, food, etc plus kayak safety gear. Or maybe you could just buy two tickets? Break-down paddles can be packed in the duffel. I use a 4-pc spare, and my main paddle is 2-pc and easily as short as fishing rods or hiking poles.