Summary:
Third trip to the Isle did not disappoint. First time via the seaplane. Beautiful weather (light rain for half a day), good wildlife sightings, and Feldtmann to ourselves for 3 nights in a row. Feeling very lucky indeed!
Fast Facts:
- 3 moose sightings: 1 cow/calf, 1 cow, and 1 bull
- 2 friendly foxes
- 0.5 days of rain
- First seaplane journey
- 7 nights on ISRO
- 3 nights at Feldtmann Lake - 0 human neighbors
- ~20-30 estimate of total number of other visitors we encountered during the trip
- First use of the Platypus "gravity works" filter. Nice in that it's low-exertion, the valves and rigging takes a little bit of setting up and would take some more careful thought and planning for a soloist. With two people it's pretty easy.
- First use of a travel size cribbage board to bring along - lots of fun.
- First use (for me) of camp shoes: foam Teva flip flops. Normally I just wear my boots unlaced or go barefoot in camp, but it was nice to have some flops to let boots air/dry out and also for walking on rocky lakebeds.
- Didn't use: bug dope, first aid (except for moleskins/bandaids), spare batteries, lighter/matches (backup stove ignition source)
- Wish I had: sometimes I bring the little to-go eyedrops to refresh contacts between lens changes. Forgot them this time.
9/18 Houghton/Hancock to Tobin Harbor to Moskey Basin: Trust the Machine
First time taking the seaplane - what an experience! Such a cool blend of digital and analog tech in the cockpit, and I got to ride in the copilot seat. The pilot sized us up (me and D, and two soloists) and as the tall skinny one of the bunch I'm not sure if it was courtesy for my legroom (36" inseam) or the fact that my slender frame gives the pilot more room to himself. Not exactly sure why plane service survived COVID and ferries didn't - it's very close quarters in the planes, but fewer passengers. Our pilot (John) was as calm as they come; a very reassuring presence. Smooth flight and beautiful clear day to see Houghton/Hancock and the approach to the Isle. Afterwards, D and I laughed at how surprising it was to see there was maybe only 20-30 gallons of fuel in the whole plane - is that going to be enough?! Of course, we don't know anything about this stuff, and it was more than enough.
Permitted and hit the trail. Kudos to Ranger Bridget(?) for advising the solo day-tripper first so as to provide him with as much time as possible on the island. Took the Tobin Harbor trail as far as we could and really enjoyed it. Advised some tired hikers to do the same when we came to the junction, and saw a couple of day hikers as well. Beautiful sunny weather, cool but perfect for hiking. We had such a sunny shelter site with nice rocks to spread gear out. It was so nice, I jumped in the freezing lake and even stayed in for a couple of minutes while D got his phone out for a picture.
Read, made dinner, plated cribbage (just a half-board) and now it's about 9 and pretty dark. Hearing some splashes in the water which I guess could be moose, or maybe beavers?
9/19 Moskey Basin to Hatchet Lake: Hatchet is Always Further Than it Seems / Minnesotans are Awesome
Tough trek from Moskey today, left around 9 and got into Hatchet a little before 4:00. Light rain in the morning got us a bit wet but we dried out by the afternoon. Saw a moose cow and calf as we left Moskey! We also saw a wolf track in the mud on the Greenstone. Hatchet Lake is, for me, always further than it seems. Staying here for the third time on my third visit - the only site I've stayed at every time. That streak will have to break eventually.
Minnesotans are awesome. I met Eric, a super friendly guy, down by the lake when I was soaking my feet. I saw what I think was a leech and it moved in an otherworldly, undulating sort of way in the water. I know they're at Feldtmann (I've had them on me before), but once they latch onto a moose they could go anywhere!
The Kathmandu Curry dinner was delicious. But I also find every dinner delicious and am utterly confused by anyone who thinks otherwise. Read some Barbarian Days (William Finnegan) which I'm really enjoying. Some mosquitoes out tonight which feels a bit unusual. I actually caught one between my fingers today and watched its big proboscis(?) try to get me. I had my Fox River whiskey earlier this afternoon and it brought a sting to my eyes, which I wrote about my Long Road the last time we were at Hatchet (almost exactly a year ago).
9/20 Hatchet Lake to Lake Desor South: Fox Encounter
Nice hike today. Sunny most of the time and a nice breeze on the Greenstone. Saw many wolf tracks in the mud (huge!) and even what looked like (but don't really know) some hair in the trees - white/gray/black, wispy, and long. Wondered if maybe it was some kind of fungus or plant but it didn't seem like it. Only encountered a couple of other parties on the trail.
Got my feet in the water here - feels good after our hike, even though its a shorter day for us. We made camp in the company of a very friendly fox who made a show of pawing in the dirt and chasing its tail, probably to try and get food from us (it didn't succeed). Listening to the loons call with my feet in the lake, I don't want to get up and go back to camp. Really spectacular - orange and red leaves on the NE bank - fall is truly here.
Letting my feet get numb in Siskiwit Bay after doing a full rinse. There is construction on the dock but D's ankle is bothering him so we called it a day here. First time here, really loving it. D even said there's TP in the outhouse. Trail from Desor was great, even saw a cow moose before the Island Mine Jct. IM was deserted, took a bathroom break and kept on. Saw the steam engine and a couple of parties leaving Siskiwit. I'd have to guess the engine was at least partially assembled on site and not hauled in complete? What a piece of equipment - coming up on 200 years old if the mine is 1830s.
Brushy trail to Siskiwit as expected, we were on the beach a couple of times but otherwise followed the trail without much difficulty. I understand the calls for caution from Rangers about the conditions in this part of the park, but I am starting to believe its a little overhyped. After a solo in 2018 and now here with D, I think traveling from IM in the direction of SB/FL is very manageable if you take your time, pay attention, and are willing to come into contact with tall grasses. (Which, if you're not willing to do, maybe should lead you to reconsider your choice of trail).
A fox came right up and sniffed my booted foot! If that's not a statement of intent, I don't know what is. Better keep all the gear as secure as possible tonight! (:
9/22 Siskiwit Bay to Feldtmann Lake: Ready to Rest
Almost 3 here at Feldtmann and I haven't seen a real cloud all day. Definitely a haze (from wildfires out west?) though. Similar to 2018. Left Siskiwit around 8:30 as the construction was getting started. Late last night some fishermen pulled up to the dock and were allowed to stay. They noisily hauled gear for a bit with their bright lamps shining everywhere but eventually went to sleep. I doubt they even have permits, otherwise they probably wouldn't have shown up to a closed dock!
Great hike out of Siskiwit on the Coyote and Feldtmann Ridges. D and I split because of our pace difference so I came across the Feldtmann overlook alone and called out to hear the echo. I hit camp before 1 and D shortly after. I took my lake bath and plucked a few leeches off my feet. We've got a great camp here, saw one or two hikers but I think they were just passing through, so we might be alone tonight.
Been reading in the sun, still no clouds, light breeze, can hear the waves crashing at Rainbow Cove. A moth came to sit on my toe for awhile and then on my leg - just enjoying the warmth, I guess. It really likes my boots in the sun as well. The lake is almost glass - no neighbors and no moose (yet).
9/23 Feldtmann Lake: First Trip to Rainbow Cove
Slept in this morning, beautiful day here. Blue sky, few clouds, so, so still and quiet. No neighbors or moose. Ate breakfast and later we'll check out Rainbow Cove.
1pm here at Rainbow - absolutely spectacular. Not a cloud in sight, but a lot of haze. Can see Rock of Ages, and just barely the mainland beyond. D and I took a skinny dip in the lake - sun-drying off on the rocks was amazing. We also walked down the beach to find the huge orange anchor(?) that washed up. Thought at first it was a buoy but its made of iron/steel or something similar. Saw a couple of otters scamper out of the lake with a fish, and a beaver swam by us a little later.
9/24 Feldtmann Lake: Somewhere There Is A Storm
Super blustery yesterday evening, calmed in the night but now the wind is whipping again. No rain though. Around 4 now, sun is starting to come out. Took a trip to Rainbow Cove to look at rocks and its so much much calmer and warmer. There are waves coming off Feldtmann from the heavy NE wind, but the Cove and Superior are so calm... very strange. Wonder where the actual storm system is hitting, if there is one. Been hanging out at camp, reading and playing cribbage.
9/25 Feldtmann Lake to Windigo to Houghton/Hancock
One week later and our trip is coming to a close. We are taking the 3pm seaplane which looks to be mostly on time. Today we had a nice hike out of Feldtmann, it's cool and humid, mostly overcast. Got to Windigo and washing my hands for real was a fantastic feeling. We are mostly packed up, eating a snack and playing some cribbage. Excited for a shower and some good food! A great trip. Oh, and we even saw a bull moose (our first of the trip) on the harbor trail.
Route Details:
9/18: Tobin Harbor to Moskey Basin, 11.3 mi
9/19: Moskey Basin to Hatchet Lake, 13.4 mi
9/20: Hatchet Lake to Lake Desor South, 8.1 mi
9/21: Lake Desor to Siskiwit Bay, 9.8 mi
9/22: Siskiwit Bay to Feldtmann Lake, 10.2 mi
9/23: Feldtmann Lake/Rainbow Cove (negligible)
9/24: Feldtmann Lake/Rainbow Cove (negligible)
9/25: Feldtmann Lake to Windigo, 8.8 mi
Total: 61.6 mi
