Isle Royale Forums

Hello,

Looking for some assistance planning a canoe route for my early August 2022 trip with my 13-year old son. New to the forum, great resource, thanks in advance to all for your help and suggestions. In 1989 my dad and his friend took my brother and I on a 10-day canoe route. See attached. We traveled counterclockwise. I was 13 and my brother was 15. It was an amazing experience that shaped my interests and perspective on life. I'm looking to retrace some of our footsteps and offer my son a similar experience.

My memory of the 1989 trip is that I absolutely loved the Lake Superior portion of the route. We were lucky enough for have mostly calm water for paddling and as you can see, were even able to avoid the difficult portage between Tobin and Duncan. We did scout that portage and I'm not afraid to make the portage as my son and I are capable.

That being said, our upcoming trip is only 5 nights, but I'm hoping to extend it to 7 with some cooperation and luck from my co-parent. We will obviously have to do some sort of out an back beginning and ending in Rock Harbor. I'm looking for Lake Superior shore camping/shelters to the extent possible. I'm inclined to head towards Belle Isle rather than Moskey Basin, but am completely open to suggestions. My son and I are comfortable in a canoe, but I will not be willing to risk dangerous unsheltered water crossings with my 13-year old (to the extent possible). What do you suggest?

I'm interested to see how things have changed in the past 33 years. We visited from June 17-26, 1989 so I recognize a August trip may differ in some ways.

Welcome!
If you've read previous posts, you already know I love the Belle Isle area. If possible, taking the Voyageur II out of Grand Portage is ideal, as you can start at McCargoe (or Belle), end at R.H., and not backtrack or have to do the Tobin/Duncan portage twice. Starting at McCargoe is nice, but you have to be especially careful with the open section from Birch Island to Pickerel Cove--on one trip we waited out the weather for a day before doing that, and should have waited 2. Other times it's fine.

If you have to start/end at R.H., I'd still head that way, so long as you're up to doing the portage twice. For me, it's enough for one day in and of itself, so I'm only going between R.H. and one of the Duncan campgrounds. Another possibility is to utilize the water taxi to get you to/from Duncan Narrows, Belle, or McCargoe, if budget allows. But if you end up with 7 nights, you could even redo your '89 trip, but obviously with less wiggle room.

That said, I've also done a couple trips that didn't leave R.H. (the water), due to portaging limitations. While more people and boats, it does allow you to visit the outer islands, lighthouse, and researcher's cabin, as well as convenient day hikes up the ridge from Daisy Farm and Three Mile. Basically you can't go wrong, so long as you stay within your abilities.

You'll probably be surprised at how much has not changed in 33 years!

Thank you for your response. We are coming from Copper Harbor, no budging there. I like your water taxi ideas and will consider. If we decide to depart and return through RH, heading towards Belle Isle, where would you suggest we camp on the first night? I would be interested in your input for both my 5 and 7 day itineraries. Thanks Ingo. Would like to squeak out the full loop in 7 nights. Ambitious, I know.

Going in and out from R.H. it's really just a question of how far you want to go. This would be fairly relaxed for 5 nights:
1. Duncan Bay or Narrows the first night. I like both: I would head towards the Narrows and see how busy they look--you can see the dock from the portage, so if there's more than 1 boat there, you probably want to head the other way, or plan to tent it.
2. Belle Isle. My favorite on I.R., just a cool spot, and I've caught some spectacular sunrises there. Check out the path/steps behind shelter 6 that go out to point and set your alarm!
3. Belle Isle. Paddle over to Lane Cove and day hike up to Mt Franklin. Check out the Keyhole that makes B.I. an island. If calm, paddle to Crystal Cove on the end of Amygdaloid Island and explore the fish camp--open paddling here, so keep an eye on the sky and watch for fog.
Alt 3. Or head down to Pickerel Cove. Nice little site (tent only). Great sunsets over Herring Bay and Round Island.
McCargoe is certainly doable, but I would be concerned about the weather turning and being an issue getting back.
4. Back to Duncan Bay. Explore up the creek at the end of the bay--I was surprised at how far back we could go.
5. Last night at Rock Harbor. You may want to break at the top of the portage and hike the ridge towards Lookout Louise. That area burned last year, if that interests you. Hike out to Scoville Pt. once settled in R.H., or the next morning. Paddle Tobin Harbor if you have the time.

This year I have 8 nights and will come and go from Belle Isle. We'll have to move, planning to head over to Duncan for a couple nights and day hike up to Lookout Louise. Maybe head down to Pickerel if the spirit moves us. Otherwise will fish, explore, and just chill. But in my younger days I did R.H. to Belle Isle solo with an 80+ lb canoe (and back) multiple times. So distance isn't a great issue, mostly which campgrounds you want to hit. But they all are great, and frankly hard for me to choose, with B.I. my favorite.

My 7 day loop would look like this:
1. Head down R.H. toward Caribou Island, another fav of mine, but can be popular and full. If so, continue on to Moskey, or Daisy Farm. Note that crossing the gap into Moskey Basin can be rough--if so, it's best closer to the shore of the main island. Reserving the water taxi to Moskey would be an option here to avoid the 10 mile paddle.
2. Lake Richie. After that 2+ mile portage, I'm not going farther!
3. McCargoe Cove. Probably the longest/hardest day with several portages.
4. Belle Isle. Or layover at Birch Island if conditions aren't good to get across the open water.
5. Belle Isle.
6. Duncan Bay or Narrows.
7. R.H.

Hope that helps!

This is very helpful. Thank you!