TR: 5/25-5/29, 2022 [Hiking] [Windigo to Malone Bay via Feldtmann Loop]

[cherrypinklimeade]

Better late than never, but I haven’t seen much info on the trail to Malone Bay so I wanted to share my experience. It was my first solo, but 4th trip to the island. General notes: it was pretty wet the whole time I was out, and cold, to the point that I pretty miserable the first night and considered running back to Windigo to catch the ferry return trip to shore. Also, it was early season so YMMV especially in the wet areas.

Day 1: Ferry from Grand Portage to Windigo, hike to Feldtmann Lake campground
Woke up very early, made the drive up to Grand Portage, located a parking spot with a little guidance. Loading was organized. Very smooth sailing on the way there, grey and foggy. Unloading and registration was straightforward. Missed the turn to the Feldtmann trail just outside of Windigo and had to backtrack about a ¼ mile. Trail out to Feldtmann was very scenic, saw some cranes along the way and lots of moose evidence. Started drizzling as I hit camp. Sites were starting to fill up with as I got there; I think I saw one of the group sites was full as dark hit. Made two runs out to Rainbow Cover, once to get water and see the view, and another time since a neighbor mentioned they had a good moose sighting. It’s a nice trail and the view is nice at the lakeshore. If you can, fill up with water from the big lake, versus at camp as Feldtmann Lake is pretty shallow with more sediment. Got a campsite pretty close to shore which was nice at first, until the wind started whipping off Feldtmann lake. And then it got cold. Really cold. And wet. Really wet. Stuffed myself and my gear inside a 50-gal trash bag I bring as an emergency poncho/gear stash.

Day 2: Hike Feldtmann Lake campground to Siskiwit Bay campground
Woke up cold and wet. Ate breakfast, convinced myself to keep going. Hike out of the Feldtmann lake area was easy, well-marked, boardwalks in good condition at the time, especially for the time of year. Hiking up the ridge I imagine is pretty, but it was wet and foggy the whole day. Encountered other solo hikers as well all ate lunch at the bottom of the fire tower. Pressed onward towards Siskiwit Bay. Trail gets very flat as you get closer and closer to the Lake Halloran area. A couple of wet areas and noticeable beaver activities. I found it easy to stay on trail though. Got to Siskiwit Bay, the very kind two other solo hikers had doubled up and left me the remaining shelter. A couple of foxes hanging around the area. Probably one of my favorite campgrounds on the island. Clouds cleared up and we got a very nice sunset. Glad I had grabbed a newspaper to shove in my boots overnight to try to dry them.
Day 3: Hike Siskiwit Bay to Lake Desor South
Woke up to sun and drier boots. Heading inland across the river mouth got a little tricky, there is one spot where you may need to ford a smaller stream before you get to the river mouth. There was a bridge at that time, but not in the greatest condition. Had to bushwhack a little across Ispheming Point to find the trail. Island Mine was a nice lunch stop, the group sites look like they’d be great and every site had some sort of sitting log. Sun was out and even got a sunburn that day due to lack of leaf-out. The climb up to Mt. Desor is definitely a climb, and it wasn’t really obvious where the high point is. It was very pretty though, lots of interesting lower growth vegetation. Walked through a nice wildflower meadow with lots of little bees gently buzzing everywhere. Didn’t see anyone else from the time I left the Island Mine/Greenstone junction until the end of the trip. Getting down into Lake Desor South it’s very steep. Camp sites are located up off the lake and it’s a bit steep to get down to fill water. Checked out all the sites, there were a few where there’s been obvious tree clearing leaving the sites pretty open, which I’m guessing is better for keeping the bugs away later in the season. Saw a couple of swans on the lake, and quite a few hummingbirds surprisingly.

Day 4: Hike Lake Desor South to Malone Bay
Woke up, packed up, scrambled my way back up to the Greenstone trail, and then it started misting and spitting and I found myself once again questioning every decision I have every made. It’s mostly a long uphill grade to Ishpeming Point, which doesn’t really have a much of a view. Started raining more so I broke out the ol’ trash bag poncho and carried on. Turned and started the long downhill trek to the bay. The upper part of the trail is nice and winding, going through a couple of clearings, but it started to get narrower and narrower the further down I went. Lost it at once point going through a swampy low area in the woods and had to muck around to pick it up again. The river crossing was challenging. I had read earlier reports that it’s on a beaver dam and difficult to locate, and that bore out. I hiked up and down the banks for a while, and didn’t really see any great crossing point. Ended up crossing on the widest most connected beaver dam I could find and saw remnants of an old bridge buried there. Recommend picking your way carefully, hiking poles helped but unless you have full on waders expect to get wet up to your shins at least. The rest of the trail from there on was nice, saw a moose and crossed a couple of snowdrifts. It was a wet day so I didn’t stop for a true lunch, just munched on what I could grab without taking off the pack. Got into Malone Bay and saw signs of human life again. Lots of wonderful shelters, grabbed one with a nice view, and promptly cried tears of gratitude.

Day 5: Malone Bay to Grand Portage via ferry
Woke up fog again which cleared pretty quickly. It is definitely a ¼ mile hike from camp to the ferry dock. There was a place with a tree down from a storm around camp, one of the trails is cut off but easy to navigate around. Very wet trail from water coming off the river and out of the swampy area adjacent; but looks like that’s probably seasonal. I had made my reservation in advance to get picked up at Malone Bay, but I was still nervous about it. A father-son duo showed up who had also made a reservation, so I felt better. Waited on the dock in the sun, ferry was running a bit behind but it arrived in due time. Saw my fellow solo hikers from Siskiwit Bay and smiled. Smooth, sunny sailing back to Windigo, but the clouds set in and waves picked up significantly on the way back to the mainland. Reminder to self: bring cash to pay for parking. Mailed my parking ticket back which was not a big deal but I felt bad about forgetting.

Overall, even thought the weather was not great, I had enough dry clothes to keep me warm at night, and I enjoyed the route I took, with the exception of the beaver dam crossing, but I would do it again.

[Ingo]

Thanks for the report. I did the Feldtmann loop a few years back at the same time of year, and it was also rather wet and cold, but still a great trip. Did you seen any moose at Feldtmann? They were all over the campground and in the lake that year. I also appreciate the nervousness of getting picked up by the VII--I've done it 1/2 dozen times without any issues but still get nervous about missing them, or them missing me!

[Midwest Ed]

I also appreciate the nervousness of getting picked up by the VII--I've done it 1/2 dozen times without any issues but still get nervous about missing them, or them missing me!

One more reason to carry a bit extra food, at least under these circumstances. Also consider taking a marine radio (even if not paddling) as you could contact the VII (or a different boat) as they passed near by. While technically illegal to use from land, I think the exigent circumstances would cover things. If it's obvious that weather is the culprit I'd probably wait a bit longer before heading back to civilization on my own.

[Midwest Ed]

Feldtmann Loop ending at Malone sounds like a nice yet a bit challenging route, especially so early in the season.

Did you have a tent? My first impression was the garbage bag was your major cover?

My estimate for the tree removal at South Desor was for safety reasons. Were they Birch (or maybe Aspen)? Birch can be notorious for looking stable yet will fall all too easily under the force of a hammock or even moderate wind storms. There was a fairly recent and serious spinal injury of a hammock user, I think at Hatchet Lake.

[dcclark]

Thanks for this wonderful trip report. I'll be heading to the west end this year at this same time -- end of May. Your log makes me both excited and nervous, especially the potential for cold, wet days.

[cherrypinklimeade]

Feldtmann Loop ending at Malone sounds like a nice yet a bit challenging route, especially so early in the season.

Did you have a tent? My first impression was the garbage bag was your major cover?

My estimate for the tree removal at South Desor was for safety reasons. Were they Birch (or maybe Aspen)? Birch can be notorious for looking stable yet will fall all too easily under the force of a hammock or even moderate wind storms. There was a fairly recent and serious spinal injury of a hammock user, I think at Hatchet Lake.

I did have a tent, but it was just that wet and miserable. I always carry a garbage bag as one of my essential piece of emergency gear for its weight to usefulness ratio.
I could see that might be a reason for the tree clearing there; none of the stumps were very large in diameter.

[cherrypinklimeade]

I also appreciate the nervousness of getting picked up by the VII--I've done it 1/2 dozen times without any issues but still get nervous about missing them, or them missing me!

One more reason to carry a bit extra food, at least under these circumstances. Also consider taking a marine radio (even if not paddling) as you could contact the VII (or a different boat) as they passed near by. While technically illegal to use from land, I think the exigent circumstances would cover things. If it's obvious that weather is the culprit I'd probably wait a bit longer before heading back to civilization on my own.

Definitely factored in possible weather delay into my communication/emergency plan with my mainland contact. There was a fishing boat there which was also reassuring.

[cherrypinklimeade]

Thanks for the report. I did the Feldtmann loop a few years back at the same time of year, and it was also rather wet and cold, but still a great trip. Did you seen any moose at Feldtmann? They were all over the campground and in the lake that year. I also appreciate the nervousness of getting picked up by the VII--I've done it 1/2 dozen times without any issues but still get nervous about missing them, or them missing me!

Glad missing the boat is a common feeling and a very uncommon experience! I didn't see any moose, probably due to very foggy weather leaving camp, there was plenty of fresh evidence.

[torpified]

Thanks for the report---especially appreciated in the offseason. I admire your high tech gear (garbage bag and newspapers---I always carry two bread bags to wear over my sleeping socks when I need to put damp shoes on for overnight forays) and perseverance!

[Buckeye]

Thanks for this trip report.
We are considering an itinerary starting in Malone this year. We are hoping to cover most of the remaining trails we haven't yet hiked on this trip.

[jerry]

The Malone Tr. between the Greenstone and the L. Superior CG at Malone was overgrown in places when I did it. Enjoy!