Isle Royale Forums

Isle Royale has been something I've wanted to do for several decades and I'm so excited to finally make it a reality this summer. I've tried doing all my research, but would love to hear any advice from seasoned veterans.

I'll be doing the Greenstone Trail June 22-27. I'll be leaving from Grand Portage taking the Voyager II to get me to Windigo and then from RH back GP. I know black flies will be out. I have some pants that I use rock climbing because of the stretch, wicking, and lightness of them. I'll have arm covers and a head net.

Itinerary:
Saturday: land in Windigo, hike to Island Mine (6.6 mi)
Sunday: Island Mine to Hatchet Lake (13 mi)
Monday: Hatchet Lake to E Chickenbone (9.3mi)
Tuesday: E. Chickenbone to Three mile (10.5)
Wednesday: Three Mile to Rock Harber and the Scollville Loop (8.6)
Thursday: Wake up and ferry back to GP

I know this is an ambitious itinerary. I'm trying to list out contingencies. If I'm doing well on Saturday (day 1), I might try to make it to S Desor to even out the miles between day 1 and 2 or in case the weather looks like it will be bad on Sunday. I can also eliminate the Scollville loop if I'm not making the progress I want. I have been training since October and feel like this is within my physical capabilities and offers a challange.

I think my biggest concern is that I feel like the schedule of arriving and leaving on the ferries is pretty rigid. I'm trying to make it back in time because I'll have my kids that weekend and if my ferry gets delayed because of weather, I won't make it back home in time. Which I guess is just a risk, I'll have to take.

Anything I'm not considering before I book my ferry?

Definitely reserve your spot on the ferry soon. It fills up fast! In general, if you're certain you can handle the distances, this will be fine. But, have you tried these distances, with weight, on similar terrain?

Some edits: If you stick with Island Mine and East Chickenbone, you'll be getting a tour of the least-loved campgrounds on the island. I recommend making S. Desor your default plan on Day 1, with the option to ditch at Island Mine if you're running late or having trouble. East Chickenbone is the least popular campsite on the island, with good reason. It's on an exposed ridge high above the lake, with little shelter and a long walk to get water. I'd suggest aiming for West Chickenbone instead (at the cost of a longer next day), or Lake Richie (nearly the same distance).

But instead of any of that, I'd really recommend changing your whole plan. Is there a reason you want to hike the Greenstone? The most interesting parts of the island are basically all somewhere else, and most of the Greenstone is a tunnel of trees until you're on the far east end. You really do miss out on the best parts by sticking to the ridge.

So, since you haven't made reservations yet, you could consider doing the Feldtmann Lake loop and adding on Hugginin Cove if you have time. Those are excellent west end loops that give you a good sense of the island, without being stuck in the trees all day. That would also let you arrive and depart from Windigo.

I second dcclark. The Feldtmann Loop is a great hike for that amount of time, and optionally add Huginnin Cove at the end. And I am in the minority I guess and had a lovely evening at Island Mine, although it was a bit earlier--if the trees haven't fully leaved out it's got a nice open feeling.

I appreciate the feedback. Yes, I have been training with those distances and with weight on my back. I'll definitely look at going to W Chickenbone vs. East.

I've had my heart set on the Greenstone. I'd really like to add having traversed the length of the largest island in the largest lake in the world as one my accomplishments. I'd like to make it back there someday and I might add Feldtmann loop to my next trip. Logistically sticking to one side of the island will be easier.

I agree with everything dcclark said; ships fill up fast, mileage is good as long as you've done those mileages with weight, and the Greenstone's nice views are more toward the middle (fire tower) and east (Mount Franklin) but otherwise... meh.

I have hiked the entire length of the Greenstone and the Minong and many of the other shorter and connecting trails. I stayed at East Chickenbone and agree with dcclark, again. That site was my least favorite of every site I have stayed at. I have never stayed at Island Mine but have hiked past it a couple of times and stopped there for lunch once, but I have no desire to stay there.

As for his suggestion regarding the Feldtmann Loop and Huginnin Cove, I give it two thumbs up. I hiked the loop four times and stayed at Huginnin Cove twice, with the most recent being last May with two of my friends.

The Feldtmann Loop has some of the nicest scenery on the island, in my opinion. And, Huginnin Cove is my favorite campsite on the island.

If you have your heart set on your planned itinerary, then at least keep the Feldtmann Loop and Huginnin Cove in mind for a future trip... it will not disappoint.

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More or less that itinerary, at more or less that time of year, was my first trip---I also felt the pull of walking across the island, and the Greenstone Ridge looms large in wide-angle accounts of options.

I loved it. I also agree that stretches of its western half *are* a tunnel of trees. You'll be so excited to be walking across Isle Royale that you won't care. And even if you did care, you wouldn't care for long: the trail's eastern stretches, especially the uninterrupted open ridge walking that starts around the Daisy Farm junction, are incredible. The direction you'd be walking, you're saving the best for last. Tunnel of trees or no, it'll inspire you to come back for more.

Whatever you wind up doing, be prepared for the incessant daylight you'll encounter at those latitudes that close to the solstice. An eye-mask equivalent (I just use a buff I've taken care NOT to soak in DEET) can help a lot of you plan to sleep for more than the handful of hours it's actually dark!

My first backpacking trip ever was almost exactly as you're planning, in late June 2021. Like you, I tried for almost a year (two, really, thanks to COVID...). I was 43 and reasonably fit. I found the trip to very manageable. I also thought it was amazing. In fact, so much so that I returned the next year to be a part of the Moosewatch for Educators program. As Torpified points out, heading in the direction you are, you'll see the payoff soon enough. The second half of the trip is great, and the first half is still exciting because the island is magical. As for East Chickenbone, I would say it's fine. It's a place to sleep in peace. It may not be as scenic as other sites, but it probably beats any night on the mainland.

Enjoy your trip. Can't wait to read about it when you're done.

Careisin wrote: ↑Wed Apr 03, 2024 3:35 pm I've had my heart set on the Greenstone.

You can't argue with your heart! You'll have a great trip, I'm sure.

In '22 I did the end to end, with a few different camp site. As others have said, Windigo to he tower is in the tunnel, but you're on IR, so you won't care. Stayed at Island Mine and had a relaxing first night. S. Desore for a water refill and over nighted at Hatchet. Then off to Todd Harbor, one of my favorite sites as we had the large group site and met some great people with great views. Then to Moskey Basin and McCargo Cove before passing through Daisy Farm and staying at 3 Mile. I was 51 at the time and prepped for 4 months walking and lifting weights at the gym, combined with trail hikes on the weekends. If you've been training, you'll have a great experience and be ready to return before you leave. September '24, I'm returning for Feldtmann Loop and Hugginings Cove.

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If the hike you want is end to end, then the route you have described will work for you. If it were me, I would shoot for S. Desor-Hatchet-W.Chickenbone for the first three nights, then decide en route which route in to Rock Harbor based on how you’re doing physically and whether you are enjoying the open high ridges, the lakes, shoreline walking, or craving solitude.

You can decide at Chickenbone Junction between stopping at W.Chickenbone or going straight to E. Chickenbone, or turning right and on to Lake Ritchie. Look at the map and you will see how Chickenbone Junction is a key place to make the decision. The Lake Ritchie option gives you more inland lakes, the gorgeous views from Moskey Basin, and a couple more miles. You’ll see less other hikers on this route until you get to Daisy Farm.

Hello, I hope nobody minds if I tag onto this message chain in lieu of starting an identical new post.
Can anyone weigh in on my Itinerary and let me know if I am missing out on good trail sections?
Our dates are 7/14-7/19, which are ridgid due to one of our party members is flying the united flight from Chicago

Day 1, Seaplane to RH (10 am) and water taxi to Moskey basin. Hike to McCargoe cove, but stop at Lake Richie or W chickenbone
Day 2, Round trip down Minong Ridge Trail and return to McCargoe cove. OR Hike to Daisy Farm
Day 3, Hike to daisy farm, or if we hiked to daisy farm day 2, hike down rock harbor trail to Moskey Basin
Day 4, Hike to Lane Cove
Day 5, Hike to 3 mile or to RH via tobin harbor trail
Day 6, Seaplane ride back at 3PM

It seems that I am either spending an extra day in MCC or DF on day day 2 or 3, and I am interested in feed back from people who know the island well

The biggest reason I want to have rest days with day hikes is that My sister is a serious hiker and won't want to do just 6-10 miles in a day, and My 2 friends have not been backpacking in years.

I want to see as much as the east side of the Island, and I am happy to pay the Water Taxi (already booked to Moskey basin) and change plans, but I want to keep the days under 10 miles each.

kkrause wrote: ↑Thu Jun 06, 2024 8:41 am Day 1, Seaplane to RH (10 am) and water taxi to Moskey basin. Hike to McCargoe cove, but stop at Lake Richie or W chickenbone
Day 2, Round trip down Minong Ridge Trail and return to McCargoe cove. OR Hike to Daisy Farm
Day 3, Hike to daisy farm, or if we hiked to daisy farm day 2, hike down rock harbor trail to Moskey Basin
Day 4, Hike to Lane Cove
Day 5, Hike to 3 mile or to RH via tobin harbor trail
Day 6, Seaplane ride back at 3PM

It seems that I am either spending an extra day in MCC or DF on day day 2 or 3, and I am interested in feed back from people who know the island well

The biggest reason I want to have rest days with day hikes is that My sister is a serious hiker and won't want to do just 6-10 miles in a day, and My 2 friends have not been backpacking in years.

Both the seaplane and water taxi are susceptible to weather and other delays, and it seems a shame to start at Moskey but not stay there, so you may want to consider something like:
1 - Moskey
2 - McCargoe
3 - Daisy
4 - Lane Cove, layover at Daisy, or 3 Mile (either direct or via the Greenstone ridge).
5 - RH or 3 Mile
You are wise to plan to for the least experienced in your party--your sister can always do more after you get to camp. The hike out of Lane Cove is a bear for many--you could make the call at Daisy if someone's struggling. You should also get in the hike to Scoville Pt from RH, maybe the prettiest on the island.

Ingo, Thanks so much for the reply.

Would you think it would be better to do my route in reverse (first night in lane cove) and have the Taxi Pick us up in Moskey?

Krause, my thought on reversing the route is that the water taxi to or from Moskey Basin is an element that adds complexity (potential weather delays, missed connections etc) and I would always rather have those elements at the beginning of the trip and get them over with. If adjustments need to be made, you have the ability to work them into your routing. Your group can then have the rest of the trip in your own control, without the pressure to make it to Moskey for a timed pick-up at the end. Thus I wouldn’t reverse it if it was me.

Bobcat1 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 06, 2024 5:53 pm Krause, my thought on reversing the route is that the water taxi to or from Moskey Basin is an element that adds complexity (potential weather delays, missed connections etc) and I would always rather have those elements at the beginning of the trip and get them over with. If adjustments need to be made, you have the ability to work them into your routing. Your group can then have the rest of the trip in your own control, without the pressure to make it to Moskey for a timed pick-up at the end. Thus I wouldn’t reverse it if it was me.

i concur!