Paddling Reports re "5 Fingers" NE end of IR?

[eddy_line]

I'm interested in the paddling/portaging route referred to as "The Five Fingers" water route in Jim DuFresne's fine guidebook. This would cover 13.5 miles from McCargoe Cove to Rock Harbor, then we might add a loop down to Moskey Basin and back to Rock Harbor. We did a 6-day paddling/portaging trip from McCargoe Cove to Chippewa Harbor via Siskiwit in late July 2011, and we're considering options for future trips. The Five Fingers route would appear to include more time paddling vs. portaging, and some different scenery, plus giving us a chance at experiencing the "civilization" of Rock Harbor and the historical/environmental sites along the way to Moskey Basin.

I have explored the IR Forum trip reports with very limited success: A) Most of the reports are of hiking trips. B) Most of the "Subject" lines do not clarify the type of trip (hiking/paddling) or the route. C) Circumnavigation reports do go through this area, but are focused on weather, waves, and covering miles.

I'd appreciate any assistance re your experiences paddling in this area, or directing me to any appropriate trip reports which may already be posted on the IR Forum. We would likely be paddling 14-16' solo kayaks, but would be interested in hearing about trips with kayaks or canoes.

[Ingo]

Eddy,
Our 2009 trip was McCargoe to Rock Harbor. Here's what I got--the trip log has point-to-point times: http://moskeybasin.com/Isle_Royale/Isle ... _Main.html. In kayaks your paddling times should be shorter and portaging longer, but you'll get the idea.

[eddy_line]

Thanks for the response, Ingo. Seems like we're trying to follow you around the island, albeit a few years behind.

I'd gladly trade that long, steep portage for a chance to paddle around Blake Point. Rounding Blake Point begs the question of weather assessment, appropriate equipment, preparation, and skills, even with a kayak, so I'd be interested in getting any advice from paddlers who have experienced it.

We would probably be looking at 6 days on the island, as we did in 2011, so your time line would indicate plenty of time to include extra time fishing and exploring on the NE corner, or exploring Rock Harbor to Moskey.

The 2011 adventure included fishing on only inland lakes, but provided us with 3 meals of northern and walleye. Could we hope for similar results fishing in lake waters?

[johnhens]

My TR from this Spring was that route.
http://isleroyaleforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1489
I have done the route both ways starting at RH over to MacCargoe and back and the opposite. This trip was the first I did any fishing on this route. We will probably do something similar next Spring (other than the portage from Duncan to Tobin).
You will do well for Northern and Lake Trout at least in the Spring.
I will be at Canoecopia in March, if you go stop by the booth and we can talk some more.

[Ingo]

Thanks for the response, Ingo. Seems like we're trying to follow you around the island, albeit a few years behind.

Just so long as you're not stalking .

We would probably be looking at 6 days on the island, as we did in 2011, so your time line would indicate plenty of time to include extra time fishing and exploring on the NE corner, or exploring Rock Harbor to Moskey.

Oh yeh. Doing the trip in 2 days would not be unreasonable travel time wise (weather permitting). I used to solo canoe R.H. to Belle Isle leaving after work (4-5ish) and getting there by sundown.

The 2011 adventure included fishing on only inland lakes, but provided us with 3 meals of northern and walleye. Could we hope for similar results fishing in lake waters?

Brady Cove behind Birch Is. is known for it's northern fishing--seems the more protected bays/coves are best for northern. Those who actually catch fish will probably be more help, but I do know they're there 'cause I've eaten them

[eddy_line]

Yes, John, I had read your report, which included further encouragement for avoiding the Duncan to Tobin portage. I'd like to paddle around Blake Point, but there is the little matter of Lake Superior's fickle weather. Not sure just when, where, and how we would make the determination which route we could take at a specific point on the trip. I'll look forward to visiting with you at the IR booth during Canoecopia. We were there to get a DuFresne book and autograph last spring, but hadn't yet gotten involved with you IR Forum folks at that point.

Not to worry, Ingo. We don't stalk, we just try to keep moving. Our 2011 IR adventure taught us that we were definitely capable of covering the normal "chunks" of paddling and portaging; future trips might include a bit more exploring of some of those inland lakes we hurried through. On the other hand, other than Siskiwit, we never encountered any significant wind or waves on those inland lakes--5 Fingers could be a different experience.

Thanks, guys.

[johnhens]

My most useful planning aid on Isle Royale, when paddling, is my VHF. I keep up on the extended forecast on the NWS Weather channel. You have to be flexible with your schedule. If the winds are NW, N, NE, E, SE, S and say above 10 mph, Blake Pt will be interesting. If the forecast calls for 2-3' waves, the waves will be bigger around Blake Point, and Hill Point if out of NW, N, NE. The waves stack up against the Points as the bottom comes up quickly.

You might want to take the Voyageur and get dropped off, for the first trip to the Five Fingers, at either MacCargoe or Bell Isle. If your pickup date is Sunday at RH, and there are windy conditions forecast for Saturday, paddle around Friday. You could then paddle Tobin Harbor or Rock Harbor or hike Saturday.

Stay further away from shore too as you go around the points. Less clapoti waves.

Hope that helps

[Damon S]

Eddy,

I had a long response typed out for you and the board kicked me off and lost all the text..(ugh) so, here goes a second/abbreviated version...

My wife and I have paddled that area several times and it’s one of favorite areas. There are quite a few stigmas attached to certain areas of the island and the nature of how Superior kicks up her heals, but like John mentioned, with adequate preparation via a weather radio/vhf, you can still have a fairly reliable window of opportunity for traversing the more exposed areas.

Although I’ve seen many people travel those areas in 14’ rec type boats, I would recommend a sea kayak of 15’ or greater. Paddling out of McCargoe Cove to the NE, you’ll have Indian Point which can be rough but visible past Birch Island to determine whether or not your going to head around. Keep in mind: early morning is usually the best time to paddle Superior and with a weather report and good common sense, you can keep yourself out of trouble (most of the time). Don’t let the reputation of those outside areas discourage you, because many of them are the most beautiful and can be paddled in pristine conditions.

Just to throw it out there and “get it over with,” some of the roughest weather I’ve encountered on Lake Superior was in high winds paddling out of Duncan Narrows, around Locke Point and past Hill Point. That area obviously covers the Five Finger area and places you want to include in your exploration. BUT, I did so knowing the weather was going to be rough and challenging. Certain areas of IR will allow you a “peek” around corners to see if your up for the challenge. You can always turn back. Others won’t. But with an early morning paddle when winds are usually low, a weather report on the VHF, and a backup plan or ditch route, you’ll be fine.

So, out around Indian Point, you could always duck into Herring Bay and Pickerel Cove (camp) if needed and you don’t want to paddle into Amygdaloid due to weather.
NOTE: the lake trout fishing in June/July is good outside of Indian Point and into the channel. The portage here if needed is very short and easy, plus Pickerel Cove is one of our top five for camp spots on IR. The cove and Robinson Bay is a very nice paddle and a perfect place to paddle if weather is rough. Otherwise, you can continue through the Amygdaloid and explore that island, through the keyhole and onward to Belle. Keep in mind, the hike to Amygdaloid Lake and the famous arch is worth it. Also, at the end of the island to the NE is Crystal Cove, an old fishing camp that’s recently been restored.
NOTE: The lake trout fishing is also good in the Belle Harbor area. Belle Island is another favorite and perfect in inclement weather.

I especially love the area from here toward Lane Cove and the Five Fingers. You could easily spend a whole day exploring those places. If the weather/waves are tough or building toward Hill Point and the Five Fingers, you can do the easy portages into Stockly and eventually into Duncan Bay which is also an easy portage. Duncan Bay camp is a very nice camp spot that usually doesn’t see a lot of traffic.

Now, from Duncan into the Narrows, watch the weather and paddle around Blake Point! I’ve hiked that portage and it’s a challenge. I would certainly deal with a little wave action around Blake to avoid that portage into Tobin. Plus, the distance around Blake is very short. You’d be around in no time. When you paddle toward Blake up to the Pallisades, you can get one of those peeks I talked about and always turn back.
NOTE: Lake trout is excellent here and salmon later in the year (August).
There is quite a shallow area and rocks in close that will break smaller waves and make it look rougher than it actually is. There are some interesting currents around Blake but once you make the turn, the paddle toward Merritt is fairly short. And once around, you’ll be happy you made it! Rather than suffering through that portage.
NOTE: Fishing for Lake trout is also good in the deep water just around Blake to the south.

Disclaimer Keep in mind, I’m not advocating paddling in conditions your not capable of handling. But with proper training/equipment and preparation, you can make the most out of your trip and not overexpose yourself.

[eddy_line]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. Sounds like that would be an interesting "corner" of IR to explore, and with proper preparation, could be done relatively safely. Damon has identified some specific destinations for on-land hikes or destinations which are intriguing. I'm looking forward to more reading about IR and visiting the booth at Canoecopia in March.

[Midwest Ed]

While I haven’t paddled the north shores, I have canoed the south shore and many inland lakes; and I have spent a good deal of time on the north shore via power boat. Paddling this area has been covered well in the previous responses. Having spent time in the area I can readily add support for promoting its beauty. Belle Isle is a fantastic campground with several special attributes not found at any other.

Concerning the safety aspects of Lake Superior, one thing you don’t want to face is decision making based on an inflexible schedule. Plan an extra couple of days into your schedule. I would summarize the previously posted points by simply repeating 1) preparedness, 2) situational awareness and 3) knowing your limitations. Respect Lake Superior and you will not end up in a situation where you fear it.

[Damon S]

Agree with Midwest Ed, throw a couple days on there for safe measure. Last June was a perfect example of that for us. We had already circumnavigated the island twice before and I really wanted to enjoy those areas (like the five fingers) over a ten day trip. We thought we'd take our time, go around the island again and spend a good deal of time fishing. Going up early to take advantage of the calmer seas and lake trout. Boy were we wrong. A gale blew in and totally altered our trip. By our second day, we had already accepted the fact that we wouldn't be circumnavigating the island. But with proper planning, we were able to completely change things around, stay safe and enjoy the rest of our trip.

[moss13]

Great topic and focal point for my canoe trip in August. We would like to start at Belle Isle and spend a couple nights there so we can explore that area a bit. I would really like to take a day trip and paddle thru the keyhole and across the Amygdaloid Channel to the hiking trail of the arch and overlook to Amygdaloid Lake. Can anyone talk about experiences paddling the Amygdaloid. We would only do so in relatively calm conditions. Roughly how long a paddle would it be to cross from the keyhole to the hiking trail. We would also like to explore Crystal Cove if conditions allow.

[MikeT]

John, What do you use for a VHF radio? Any brand/type to recommend??

[johnhens]

John, What do you use for a VHF radio? Any brand/type to recommend??

Mike, most folks use either a Standard Horizon or ICOM. I have a Standard Horizon SX 370. I bought it because it has a 20 hr run time on a lithium and has a AA battery tray backup. Good reception and I was able to talk to another paddler at Daisy Farm(he had an ICOM) when I was at Moskey. Good weather band reception. ICOM is popular, probably more so than Standard Horizon.
Good info:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... 60&Ns=Most Popular|0&catalogId=10001&omniTag=Category%3a+Handheld+VHF+Radios&viewTaskName=SiteSearchView

[Ingo]

I would really like to take a day trip and paddle thru the keyhole and across the Amygdaloid Channel to the hiking trail of the arch and overlook to Amygdaloid Lake. Can anyone talk about experiences paddling the Amygdaloid. We would only do so in relatively calm conditions. Roughly how long a paddle would it be to cross from the keyhole to the hiking trail. We would also like to explore Crystal Cove if conditions allow.

We paddled over to Amygdaloid once but turned around and headed back immediately because a fog bank was moving down the channel, so never did find the trail. Shortly after going back through the Keyhole my daughter & I lost my wife and other daughter in the fog heading back to Belle Isle. So make sure you have map and compass, even exploring on a day trip--and in each canoe. Although following the shoreline back wasn't an issue, it could be out in more open water. Don't remember exactly how long it took, but certainly the lesser part of a day. Maybe 15-20 min to cross the channel itself--finding the trail may be the hard part.

The Keyhole is cool. There was a good current flowing through it, but luckily it reversed and was going with us both ways. May have been a struggle with my 100 lb (and not very strong paddler) daughter in the bow if we had to go against it. But it's short if you do have to fight it.

If you head out to Crystal Cove I'd suggest going direct from Belle Isle C.G. and not through the Keyhole and up the channel, even if that's calm. I would expect conditions to be worst at the NE end of the channel, and that way you would immediately know and be able to turn around back to Belle Isle.