Circumnavigating Isle Royale?

[bergman]

I've paddled both Grand Island and Pictured Rocks in an aluminum canoe and have experienced rough waters around both.

But have you ever experienced a wicked storm while out on the open lake? Yes, you will be paddling along the shoreline of the main island, but the island is out in the middle of the open lake, which makes it quite different from Superior's shoreline.

One time, while camping on Superior's shoreline at Porcupine Mountains State Park, you could see the storm coming across the lake. The front seemed like it had gone by and dropped some rain, but then 5 minutes later all hell broke loose. The winds were reported to be sustained 80-85 mph at the shoreline. One backpacker from Arizona died from a tree falling on his tent.

Another time, while fishing with my brother out in Five Finger Bay in my 17' Michicraft alum canoe, we left our rain gear at camp on Duncan Bay as it was full sun. We were out fishing straight down for lake trout in the middle of the bay, and could easily see the clear horizon. 45 minutes later we were fishing in the NW part of the bay, and the treeline was shielding my view of the big lake at that point. After finally putting a fish on the stringer, we headed for home. When I was able to look out onto the big lake to the NE, there was a low hazy front coming in. Some minutes later the wind picked up out of nowhere. I had barely maneuvered the canoe so that we would be pointing downwind (which was not the direction back to camp), when a literal gush of wind came upon us, "poured" into and up the length of the canoe, and practically lifted my 185 lb brother right up out of his front seat!

So there are at least 6 danger factors: 1) cold water; 2) wave height; 3) wind; 4) unseen rocks just below the surface; 5) the fact that storms can "fly" across the big lake, catching you unawares; and 6) weather forecasts are just that - intelligent predictions. I believe the models used to forecast the marine weather around Isle Royale are not that great - perhaps the power boaters and sailors can weigh in on this point; also, weather forecasting is inherently less reliable during the Spring and Fall.

Keep in mind that if you paddle through Siskiwit (as I suggested above) to Malone Bay, you could catch the Voyageur at Malone Bay, and begin your circumnavigation of the island at Windigo, still no small accomplishment. Once you are on the north shore, when the shit hits the fan, you are both really going to need to be strong and may be called upon to summon strength and stamina for a prolonged period of time to get out of harm's way. If you decide to paddle the entire island, and either one of you have a sore elbow or shoulder once you have reached Windigo, then you would be putting yourself in serious danger by choosing to "push on" anyway at that point. Not a bad idea to do some light freeweight training 6 wks before the trip, so those joints are in good condition.

Think of taking the V-II from Malone Bay to Windigo as sort of like "Take a Ride on the Reading [RR]" in Monopoly; plus, you get to drink free coffee, prepared by someone else to boot.

All of us that belong to this forum want to see you and your roommate arrive safe & sound in Rock Harbor at the end of your trip; you can never have too many certified Wilderness 1st Responders if we ourselves happen to run into trouble out there in the backcountry, so we want you guys around for many years to come.

[bergman]

So 1-3' means you should be prepared for 4+ and could see a 6 footer.

Thanks Ingo! Now I know why I never venture out onto the lake proper, in May or June, unless the forecast is "calm to 2 feet" (canoe or touring kayak; i don't own a sea kayak). I guess I must have learned what "1 to 3 feet" really means, by trial and error. Seriously though, there is little room for error on Superior.

[bergman]

It was 20 years ago this past August that Chris McCandless died prematurely in Alaska. Now I'm not at all making a comparison to our Paddler89. I remember, in reading Jon Krakauer's book "Into the Wild", how the author referenced an interesting phenomenon among men in their early to mid 20s,; that they seem to have an inflated sense of invincibility. As I recall the book, Krakauer described how 2 such young men (other than McCandless) died. One of them was considered to be the top mountain climber in the world. Notwithstanding a bad forecast, he ventured out at 4:20 pm to begin the mountain climb he had planned, after making an entry in the outpost logbook; they never did find him. I think the other was Krakauer himself (of course he didn't die, so maybe the author was the 3rd example), as he was bored with his carpentry work in Denver, and in doing a solo mountain climb in Alaska, found himself scaling what was a vertical ice wall (a very thin ice wall). Looking back on it, he had to conclude that it certainly wasn't a death wish; however, there had to have been an irrational refusal to acknowledge the real risk that he intentionally entertained and beckoned. Krakauer concluded that this is a dangerous age period for an outdoor adventurer/enthusiast that is physically gifted, particularly if he has a special skill-set.

There is a book - "Naked in the Stream" - published in 2010 by Vic Foerster (loaned my copy to my cousin); a collection of stories about Isle Royale. The author and a friend of his have been coming to the park for 30 straight years, and usually "hold court" on the back of the Queen when they ride out to the island in mid-May every season. One story tells of a park employee who kayaked solo (he was totally on his own) from Isle Royale (i think he started out from Siskiwit Bay) to the north entrance of the Portage Canal (which leads to Houghton/Hancock). He had some bad luck and some good luck. He came incredibly close to not making it, and he knows it. For two years he declined to talk about his experience with anyone, including his cousin (the author of the book). My sense is that he was so angry with himself for having risked his life like that. He didn't/couldn't fully appreciate the risk until he had completed his journey. Hindsight was 20/20, and it scared the hell out of him. I wonder how old he was at the time he made his crossing?

[treeplanter]

"Clapotis is a term kayakers use for reflected waves combining with the incoming waves in predictable patterns causing an area of disturbed water where wave height ...". It's not a term used by canoeists because they would be swamped in such conditions.

I never knew there was a fancy name for "lake chop."

The "lake chop" around Isle Royale seems to be particularly bad, especially around the south shore. Maybe not surprising actually, when you look at the island's geology, which is a series of rock formations that slope gradually south into the lake (look at the Greenstone Ridge, the north slope is a vertical wall, the south slope is gradual). Any sort of south wind moving across Lake Superior will gradually build swells as it moves north and these swells seem to amplify as they ride up over the ascending underwater rock formations. Combine these building swells with ordinary lake waves and the shoreline of Isle Royale, and you can get "lake chop." Not that you can't paddle in a lake chop zone, you can, but you'll be fighting your boat the entire way (a very strange sensation too, it's like your boat is being twisted in half). And trying to land your boat is a "chop" zone is just plain difficult if not unsafe. Personally, if I encounter lake chop, I'll back out about 500 feet from shore. I find it much easier to deal with two foot waves or four feet swells than unpredictable chop. Luckily, most of the water-based camp sites on Isle Royale are in sheltered bays or harbors, so once you're off the Big Lake, the chop goes away.

Edit: Maybe "bounce-back" is a better term than "lake chop." When swells and waves hit a rocky coast, the water "bounces back." This bounce-back water is quite turbulent and is very difficult to paddle in. Part of the bounce-back is pushing you back out into the Lake, the other part is pushing you toward shore. Your kayak or canoe is constantly twisting and paddling techniques that work well elsewhere won't work here. The best remedy is to avoid the bounce-back zone entirely. For me, this means paddling no nearer than 500' from shore. Others are comfortable paddling closer.

Paddler89, I've kayaked about 50% of the Isle Royale shore throughout the years and used to live in Munising. I've both kayaked and canoed Pictured Rocks. My original advice still holds, there's no way I circumnavigate Isle Royale in a canoe in May. Not ever.

[Damon S]

My wife and I have paddled the island quite a bit, including several circumnavigations and know the shoreline fairly intimately. I’ve taken meticulous planning in my navigation and always had a plan b and c in case things didn’t work out.

Regarding never circumnavigating the island, I would disagree depending on the paddlers ability. One year we went around, we ran into a father/daughter team at Hay Bay who was just completing their last few legs of a counterclockwise route…Dad in paddling a canoe solo, and the 15 year old daughter paddling a 12 foot rec boat with no skirt. They paddled in several days of bad weather…. weather that we experienced that trip and how they successfully completed their trip was beyond me. Would I agree with how they chose to complete their trip, absolutely not, I think both were very lucky. We’ve always sea kayaked the island and have ventured out in pretty treacherous conditions but were always prepared for the conditions, both in skill and exposure gear.

For the time you’ve allotted, I would say you can definitely get the circumnavigation in, however, make sure you’re proficient on self rescue. Leave nothing to chance. Make sure each leg of the trip is a reasonable/achievable distance and leave early in the morning. There were several days we would paddle 18 + miles and still be into camp by 2 pm or earlier. I can remember one of our paddling trips, we left from Little Todd for Hugginin Cove and paddled the entire stretch in pea soup fog…calm, but you couldn’t see a darn thing. By the time we reached Hug, we decided to push on and ended up at Long Pt by the end of the day.

As some have mentioned, the southern shoreline is sometimes more difficult than the north and I’ve experienced some unique colliding currents from rainbow cove around to long point. Also the clapotis (or what I like to call the washing machine) is mostly experienced around the NE side and Blake Pt, the palisades, locke and hill points and the entire section from Todd to Hugginin. Two other areas come to mind as well….from Malone to Chippewa and from Chip to Caribou. Be prepared for tough/very few landing areas in those stretches.

[drobarge]

Thanks Damon,
Well put.

[bergman]

I agree with Treeplanter. To round the entire island (how many miles of shoreline is it? - the water chart says 52 miles from windigo to RH, taking the south shore) by canoe in May with the cold water temp, is simply too risky. If "world peace" was the reward, then "sure". No matter how much time u give yourself, it is still basic math & probabilities; that is, exposure to risk over 100 miles/over so many hours of being on the water.

The biggest problem in the canoe is striking or catching on a rock that you do not or cannot see, especially if it's a bit windy out. The next thing you know, you've capsized or taken on a lot of icy water. If both of you are seated (u might bring knee pads to give the stern man the option of kneeling in rough water), your center of gravity is so much higher than in a kayak. Kayaking is not the same as canoeing and vice versa.

Personally, i would hate to have to deal with wind in a canoe over such a distance. In windy conditions I would guess a sea kayak is 2 1/2 to 3 times faster than a canoe.

It would also be somewhat different if there were 2 canoes on the May trip.

Consider the hypothermia chart:
32.5 to 40 degrees. Most adults will reach exhaustion or be unconscious within 15-30 minutes, and death will occur between 30 and 90 minutes.

40-50 degrees. Exhaustion/unconscious within 30-60 minutes, with death occuring between 1 to 3 hours.

So u should never be in a canoe with temps under 38. [i]Exceptions[/i] would be the protected harbors and bays, upon which you can count on other boat traffic coming by, or be within shouting/whistle distance of a campground or boat dock (e.g., seaplane dock on Tobin Harbor). The entire length of Rock Harbor would be OK, too, given the potential for boat traffic and assuming you are staying close to the shoreline. In comparison, on the big lake, especially if you are a good distance from shore to avoide the bounce-back zone, you dont stand a chance; at a minimum, you can count on losing some toes, which will put a crimp in your backpacking and rock climbing.

I advise to push your luck no further than the Rock harbor to chippewa harbor paddle; then go inland; then take the VII from Malone to Windigo; by then you will be 10 days in, and the water temp should be up 3 degrees (near the 40 mark), and then u and your friend will have a fighting chance in the event of a mishap.

You can even hang out at Windigo for a few days, fattening up at the grocery store, and maybe even staying in one of the new cabins there.

[bergman]

...make sure you’re proficient on self rescue.

This will be my 13th consecutive season paddling solo in an open canoe on Superior waters (albeit not always on the lake proper) at the park.
I own six tandem canoes, and I am not familiar with the term "self-rescue" except as it applies to kayaking.

[johnhens]

Giving yourself 23 days to do the trip sounds like you have thought it through.
You have experience paddling Superior and are paddling with someone you have paddled with before. If you decide to do this trip, I look forward to the TR. Enjoy the fishing!!!!

[bergman]

Don't forget to bring your charger so you can recharge your VHF marine radio at Windigo. Make sure somebody is giving you one as a graduation gift -$100.

If u are traveling after a steady rain (all the wood is wet), u may not want to paddle unless it is a dry day. If u have to put ashore in an emergency and start a fire (and your fingers are nearly too numb to strike a match or work your magnesium flint), u don't want to be challenged by wet or rain.

NEVER travel in a canoe in fog, especially early or late season. There may be trees or gigantic logs in the surf. A kayak might handle it, but a canoe will not.

Years ago, I had a boat taxi scheduled to take my brother and I to Belle Isle, and I was pissed off that we had to wait out a light fog (after all the boat has Sonar, right?). Kim Alexander explained that he was responsible for my safety, and much to my amazement, he was able to actually point out a huge log that was bobbing in the surf straight away from the lodge.

It is also possible to come upon a moose swimming in from one of the outer islands (in fog), but most likely u would hear its breathing.

[Damon S]

When I refer to self rescue, I'm speaking of both canoeing and kayaking. When we have taught canoe safety, especially on open water, we make sure paddlers know how to get themselves back in the canoe safely, either by themselves, or with a partner and get the canoe drained asap. Also applies to more than one canoe where one or multiple paddlers will end up in the water and another boat moves in to assist the paddlers in getting back underway.

[bergman]

[the light bulb just went on] Thanks for enlightening me, Damon. I never realized that a canoe could be righted and got underway again. I'll have to practice it in "warm" water, with my gear bags tied into the boat. Already the wheels are spinning as to how self-rescue might be accomplished, tandem vs. solo. I can see how that would be especially important in open water, as you say, for unless a boat comes along, there is no other option. In teaching canoe self-rescue, do they recommend that your bailer is tied to the canoe so that it doesn't get washed away? I'll have to keep my eye peeled for a course; maybe I can find one in Madison, WI.(?)

[Damon S]

Yes definitely have it secured or stashed so it wont get washed away. A bailer could be a sponge, or a simple (small bucket). I would probably consider using a standard bilge pump (hand) thats used for kayaking, cheap and moves quite a bit of water quickly.

Definitely practice righting your canoe and performing an entry unassisted, so in a deep water scenario, at least you know you can get yourself back in the boat.

[Paddler89]

Thank you for your concern.I have a plan B and C if the weather does not cooperate but will be attempting this challenge if it does. As for not canoeing in waters under 38 degrees, paddled 8 days last spring in waters 34 to 36 degrees and did just fine, hit some very rough water on the open lake also. You may get the impression I'm some 23 year old that is trying to do something crazy and maybe seem inexperienced but I'm fully prepared to do what needs to be done and am quite determined. I've been thinking about this trip for the past two years and the next paddling trip if all goes well this season will be circumnavigating Lake Superior. This is just the tip of the iceberg for me.
I know how to survive in the cold. I actually just spent the past 4 nights sleeping in a quinzee ( an shelter constructed out of mounded snow) with no fire for warmth and it was very enjoyable even with temps dipping below zero. I've suffered hypothermia several times ranging from moderate to severe and know the signs from my body as well as others. I'm fully aware of the risks at this point and they have been taken into account. In reality its about being prepared, knowing your limits, having good judgment, and having patience as well as remaining calm if something does arise. If anything telling me that we shouldn't attempt it encourages me even more because it proves that some are just scared to do so.
To those supporters, Thank you even more. I hope to cross paths with you all while out on the island at some point!

[bergman]

When I began to venture out on the big lake at Isle Royale, I bought a couple Type I (off-shore) PFDs made by Kent Sporting Goods, but they were too cumbersome for paddling in a canoe (and too uncomfortable around the neck). I figured if I did end up in the water, it would be good to have 25 lbs of buoyancy instead of the typical 16 lbs. I ended up buying a couple more Type I PFDs, but this time made by Stearns [Model # 429-06, Catalog # 6000], and they are very comfortable to canoe paddle in.

If I'm doing a trip which involves a lot of inland portaging, I don't bring the Type I, due to the weight (2 lb, 11 oz each), unless I'm going to be doubling back that same direction, in which case I bring it as an extra, and then cache it while I go inland.

The one advantage to a canoe over a kayak is that you can wear a Type I PFD, so I say why not wear one on the big lake, unless we are talking balmy temps in late season.

Don't take any words of discouragement too personally. I think, that in responding to your post, we are generally trying to educate others (many of whom are not forum members) who might be considering the same or similar venture, including ourselves. Thanks for starting the conversation... .