9 days: Rx Harbor to Washington Creek

[shelb]

Hi,

I plan to take my teenage sons to IR in August. We have backpacked before (Apalachian Trail: 55 miles in Maryland, Appalachian Trail: 110 miles through Shenandoah NF in VA, Pictures Rocks from Munising to Grand Marais, and several different areas of the North Country Trail, and one boy has backpacked out west. Our packs normally weigh between 15-20 pounds prior to food and water, and generally we average around 2 pounds of water and 1 1/2 pounds of food per day (need to figure if we will resupply with drops on this trip). Our last Appalachian Trail trip was 120 miles in 8 days, so we do not have an issue with mountains and high mileage.

We are VERY open to changes. Other than just enjoying the island, our main objectives are to (1) socialize with other hikers, (2) see a moose, and (3) hear wolves.

Please provide input on the following IR itinerary:

Day 1:
Ferry: MN – Rock Harbor ($129 + $67 back = $196pp total)
7:30 depart from MN; arrive 3pm rx harbor
MN- Rock Harbor (via Windigo)
Night 1: Rock Harbor

Day 2:
Night 2: Moskey Basin (11)

Day 3:
Night 3 McCargoe Cove -8.4

Day 4:
Night 4: McCargoe Cove

Day 5:
Night 5: Hatchet Lake (10.7)

Day 6:
Night 6: South Desor (8.1)

Day 7:
Night 7: Siskiwit Bay (9.9)

Day 8:
Night 8: Feldtmann Lake (10.3)

Day 9:
Night 9: Washington Creek (8.

[bergman]

Unless the weather is lousy, I would camp at Daisy Farm the first night, giving yourself a bit of a head start. With the mileage that you guys are used to, notwithstanding the rocks and tree roots (and more tree roots) along the Rock Harbor Trail, that first 7.5 miles (even with loaded packs) is relatively level and will be easy-peasy. If it is or has been raining hard, those tree roots can be slippery sons-of-guns.

There are decent tentsites at Daisy Farm, and great views from the sand beach and very long boat dock. Daisy also boasts 16 shelters, if you are so inclined. Depending on what day it is, Rolf and Candy Peterson may paddle over to Daisy and give a wolf/moose talk, which is priceless (can't remember what day of the week they do that).

You will be getting up early to board the Voyageur on Day 1. By hiking to Daisy the first day, you can let the boys sleep in a bit on Day 2! Or how about a morning scramble up onto the Greenstone Ridge to check out the views from the Ojibway Tower (not a bad idea if it is a clear day), before you hike the 4 miles to Moskey, which is far from being a "pushover" trail.

Hey, this is starting to sound pretty good... (at least a lot better than the 15 below temp we had two nites ago).

Oh yea, and watch out for the "Windigo".

P.S. Your fees will be $88 (boat to Rock Harbor; includes $8 fuel surcharge) + $71 (boat from Windigo; includes $4 fuel surcharge) + $40 (10 days in the park x $4/day for the park user fee; this is per person) = $199 per person + $4/day to park your vehicle at the Voyageur marina lot.

[jrwiesz]

Daisy Farm is a good first night; I would take the Tobin harbor trail to Three mile, instead of the Rock harbor trail(skip the rocks/roots), then on to Daisy farm.
Daisy farm is definitely a good chance to be social, McCargoe cove, also.

You mentioned about resupply/drop; not much chance for that on the Isle, without extraordinary means.
You'll be taking your entire food supply, for the end-to-end hike you plan.
A good filter is also needed to make your water. Rock harbor and Washington creek the only potable water supply/concession areas available.
In between is all pretty much wilderness area.

With your groups' experience, your itinerary looks good.
Todd harbor is a good option, if you only spend one night at McCargoe.

Seeing moose should be no problem, especially if you hike quiet. The wolf are a different story, most are hoping they hang on.
http://www.isleroyalewolf.org/winter-study

Trails Illustrated map, by Nat Geo, a good choice.
Isle Royale National Park - Water Routes and Foot Trails by Jim DuFresne, the trail guide.

http://www.irnha.org/
Map/book combo available at 10% discount if you join the association.
Discount available on other purchases, check them out.

Be sure to have your hiking legs when you hit the Isle, and this should be a great outing.

[Gimp]

People who have been to Isle Royale tend to be anxious to move out from Rock Harbor as soon as they can. I’m one of those. However, if this is your first trip, I’d lean toward advising you to stay as you planned. First of all you are arriving at 3 P.M. Central or 4 P.M. Eastern time. By the time you get yourself sorted out and on the trail you will be in for an evening arrival at Daisy Farm. August is generally a busier month so I wouldn’t count on finding a shelter available. If you stay at Rock Harbor, you probably won’t get a shelter there either, but you have plenty of time to set up a tent and explore the area. Also, your mileage for the rest of the trip is very reasonable so you don't really need to get an advance on it. Go see the float plane land and take off at the Tobin Harbor dock, take an evening hike of the Stoll Point Trail (you might see a moose there), or experience the challenge of the Rock Harbor trail without a pack on your back. Note that while I advise everyone to take the Tobin Harbor Trail toward 3-Mile / Daisy Farm, the Rock Harbor trail is quite memorable. Just avoid taking it when you are tired at the end of your trip, or when you have a full pack on your back at the start of a trip as you don’t need to risk an ankle sprain.

About three years ago I had an unexpected, extended stay at Rock Harbor due to a severe lake gale shutting down the float plane and ferries. Having time to kill I ‘discovered’ the Stoll Point Trail which I never knew existed. It's a great walk without packs. I also found that I enjoyed talking to the people who were staying at the lodge. (Generally an Elder Hostel tour group.) They were interested in my backpacking trip, and I was interested in what they were doing. We shared a common love of the outdoors, but they just had another way of viewing it. While I was feeling a bit trapped at the time, my discussions with them ended up enhancing my experience. I remember walking the length of the island on the reverse course that you are planning and didn't see a single moose. They had mama moose and calf feeding outside their windows at night.

You have two nights planned at McCargoe. It’s a very nice place, but I’d recommend that you consider moving to Todd Harbor on your night 4. I like Todd Harbor and it is directly on Lake Superior so it offers a different experience. It only has the one shelter, but if you leave McCargoe in the morning you might actually get it.

[drobarge]

I would assume Gimp meant to say... consider moving to Todd harbor on night 4 not Tobin.

[bergman]

...the Rock Harbor trail is quite memorable.

Yes, at spots it takes you right along the water's edge, yet you are high above it, and if the sun is right, the clarity and color of the water and the rocks and boulders on the lake bottom is incredible.

McCargoe does have the community fire ring for socializing, but so does Todd Harbor. With 5 individual tentsites and the 1 shelter (also 3 group sites), there's bound to be some good chatter at the Todd fire ring. Most of all at Todd, you will give yourself the chance to experience a Lake Superior sunset, from the vantage point of the actual shoreline. Those sunsets are what prompted me to move from northern IL to northcentral WI 25 yrs ago. And if those Canadians in Thunder Bay decide to celebrate our independence day a month after the fact, you might even catch some of their "northern lights"! At least that's what my Uncle Chet told me, and he's never lied to me (at least as far as i know).

[jrwiesz]

A few more thoughts.

You could take the ferry and get off at Windigo, start your trip in reverse order, having plenty of time to hike to Feldmann on the first day.
When you reach Rock Harbor, take the boat back to Windigo.

I always liked to boat over on a mid week day and end on one also. Thus, avoiding the week-end crowds for boarding/departing boats.

In planning your trip to start, and thus coincide with the transportation scheduling, you could hike the reverse order starting on the day needed to complete the hike and be in RH the evening prior to the return to Windigo boat(it's only in RH every other day?M-W-F or T-Th-Sa?). This might seem a bit more complicated but, myself, I would rather take a short boat ride and hike on the first day, instead of spending most of the day boating. Save the longer boat ride at the end(with even an option to be picked-up at several different docks like Daisy, Chippewa, Etc.).
The more you research the boats and their scheduling, the more you see your, options.

You could do Moskey basin to Chippewa harbor, instead of Moskey to RH for you pick-up day. Options!

[shelb]

A few more thoughts.

You could take the ferry and get off at Windigo, start your trip in reverse order, having plenty of time to hike to Feldmann on the first day.
When you reach Rock Harbor, take the boat back to Windigo.
......
Options!

Yikes! You are correct about options. I will look at this... I like the idea of having the zero/nero day near the end rather than at the beginning.

IR presents SO many more options/challenges in planning - much more than the AT!

[Ingo]

Yikes! You are correct about options. I will look at this... I like the idea of having the zero/nero day near the end rather than at the beginning.

IR presents SO many more options/challenges in planning - much more than the AT!

Given your experience and trip length I think you hit it on the first stab! Only major variation I'd consider is which direction. If you like boat rides and there's an appeal to seeing the island from the water, the ride to Rock Harbor around the north side is more interesting I think, but longer. If you want to minimize time traveling on the water, then starting at Windigo makes more sense. I might consider Todd Harbor over 2 nights at McCargoe, but you can make that final decision on the fly.

[bergman]

There is only one hour difference (actual time savings) if you take the V-2 along the south shore (vs. N shore). On the north run, you will cruise 2 miles down to the end of McC Cove. On the south run, you get a pretty good "peek" at Chippewa Harbor, which is very nice. If you are a backpacker, the north run wins "hands down" due to the water tour scenery from McCargoe all the way to and around Blake Point, including a view of Passage Island.

If your visit to the park is in part motivated by a desire to "recharge your batteries" by experiencing true wilderness, particularly if this is a first visit to this 99% wilderness, United Nations - designated Biosphere Reserve, archipelago, then you do not want to leave the island from the relatively civilized Rock Harbor Marina, at the end of your 10 day trip.

If you had an injury ( going east to RH), there is the option to "bail out" at chippewa harbor or daisy farm; however, you would want a boater to radio the park service to get a message to the V-2, as it only stops there for scheduled passengers, which is probably a near certainty for chippewa harbor anyway.

If you had an injury (heading to windigo) which caused you to miss the V-2 completely, the SeaHunter does a near-daily (no mondays or tuesdays) roundtrip from grand portage to windigo. If your inbound (leaving) trip from windigo is on sunday, then of course the SeaHunter doesn't work as a back-up.

Most backpackers seem to hit the trail early in the day, especially in mid-season and thereafter, to take advantage of the cool temps, which also cuts down on hydration needs. I would rather hike with the sun on my back than in my face; plus you have better viewing pleasure (less glare) hiking with the sun behind you.

My closest encounter with a wolf in the park occured when i stepped out of the last outhouse at moskey basin; it was strolling right by between the outhouse and the water (having come from the front of the last shelter, which was vacant), but the early morning sun was right in my face! Luckily I was able to take a couple steps backward to use the outhouse as a shield, and it maintained its leisurely gait as it walked past.

[shelb]

[/quote]
..... Only major variation I'd consider is which direction. If you like boat rides and there's an appeal to seeing the island from the water, the ride to Rock Harbor around the north side is more interesting I think, but longer. If you want to minimize time traveling on the water, then starting at Windigo makes more sense. I might consider Todd Harbor over 2 nights at McCargoe, but you can make that final decision on the fly.[/quote]

My toughest hiking boy has an issue with sea-sickness (actually - any motion sickness). We have decided to drive an extra 2 hours to take the MN ferry rather than one of the Michigan Ferries. (NOTE: THIS IS NOT AN OPTION - PLEASE do NOT begin a discussion on it!)

Haha - the ferry is one of the few non-negotiable parts of this trip! We are willing to modify all the other parts!

??????? 2 nights at McCargoe Cove????? or should we switch this up!!!!

[bergman]

I have to say I'm confused. Even though the 165' long Ranger III, the largest piece of moving equipment operated by the NPS anywhere in the country, must cross the big lake just over a 4 hr stretch (the first 45 minutes or so, it runs the portage canal)(at the 4 hr 50 minute mark, it enters the Middle Island Passage)(arriving at Mott Island at the 5 hr mark), a person is MUCH less likely to get seasick on it, compared to the 60' Voyageur II.

As you have it planned now, you will ride the Voyageur on the open lake for a total of just under 8 hrs. Compare that to 8 1/2 hrs on the open lake taking the Ranger III.

Sorry If this is the discussion that you preferred not begin.

I must say I really like the voyageur. But the driving time for me is doubled if i sail from grand portage (vs. houghton).

EDIT: Oops! Light bulb went on as i was brushing my teeth. Since u guys are hiking the length of the island, even if u took the Ranger, u 'd have to run the north shore on the voyageur anyway. Duh!

[Ingo]

My toughest hiking boy has an issue with sea-sickness (actually - any motion sickness). We have decided to drive an extra 2 hours to take the MN ferry rather than one of the Michigan Ferries. (NOTE: THIS IS NOT AN OPTION - PLEASE do NOT begin a discussion on it!)

In that case you definitely want to take the Sea Hunter from Windigo to Grand Portage on the way home (or the reverse on the way out). It gets up on a plane and will be the smoothest ride by far of any of the boats--and the shortest. You don't have to take the same boat there and back and can book both on the same reservation.

[jrwiesz]

Have you decided to take the Ranger?

[bergman]

jrwiesz-
turns out I was confused.
You probably missed my edit in the post above. Hopefully you were flossing...