September 20th Thursday
I will begin by saying that writing in my journal had become somewhat of a tedious affair at this point in the trip. I get so carried away with writing about every detail that usually around the second to last day of my trips, I take a break from journaling. As it turns out, I would not come back to writing about the remainder of trip until March of this year. Therefore, I will admit that things are a little cloudy and that I do not remember crisp details of events following this point on as I would normally have if I had written in my journal immediately at the conclusion of each of the last two days. Regardless, the general events that took place will be shared to the best of my ability.
So from what I recall…we went to the ranger station at 7am as we were instructed. Ranger Valerie said that the Voyageur was going to make an attempt to leave Grand Portage this morning, but that if things were too ruff, they would turn back. It turns out that the boat eventually would make the trip and arrived at Windigo around 10:30am. Before it came, Shelly and I ate breakfast and hung out at the ranger station instead of going back to our shelter. Thankfully Captain Mike and Captain Don got our message about not needing the canoe, so we did not have to worry about paying for a canoe that would go unused due to the weather conditions. We were told that the plan was that they would stop for a while at Windigo until things calmed down in the water, leave around 12pm for McCargoe Cove to pick up some people that were supposed to be picked up yesterday, stop at Rock Harbor briefly, and end their voyage at Chippewa Harbor in the late afternoon or early evening to pick up some people that were expecting to be picked up at 9am today. The ship would dock at Chippewa Harbor for the night, before making it’s way back to Windigo tomorrow and departing back to Grand Portage.
Being that we were not canoeing anymore, we decided that it would be nice to take a day hike over to Huginnin Cove since neither of us had visited the campgrounds in our past trips. While on our way back to our shelter to pack up and get ready, we saw Kara and Phil down below from the ranger station walking on the trail leading to Washington Creek. They must have been returning from Feldtmann Lake and o their way to Hugginnin Cove. We had a feeling we would see them later today if they followed the itinerary they told us about at Siskiwit Bay.
We also encountered four kayakers that were returning from Grace Island as quickly as possible with the expectations that the voyageur would be arriving at 12:30pm and leaving for Grand Portage at 1pm. To their dismay, they learned that the Voyageur was a day behind schedule and that it would not be leaving until tomorrow after it circumnavigated the island today. It turns out that after I had heard that they had been at Grace Island last evening, I was that much less bummed about missing out on doing our canoeing trip during this particular visit to the island. While I love getting to know new people and seeing familiar faces, it was a big hope of mine not to encounter anyone at Grace Island. It was to be our first canoeing trip together and Grace Island, given its distance and inability to get to unless the weather was perfect (at least for us) made it a huge milestone for Shelly and I. Not to sound greedy, selfish, or inconsiderate, but had we made it to the island, I wanted it to be our island for the day. I wanted a secluded paradise to celebrate our victory on. I wanted a day where we experienced nobody on the trail or at the campgrounds, something that had not happened throughout our trip so far. Knowing that the kayakers were there last night, not only would we not have been the only ones on the island, we probably would not have even gotten a shelter either.
I forgot where the kayakers said they started their trip from, but they did come from Rainbow Cove to Grace Island yesterday, and from what we were told, there were 9ft waves on that day thus why the Voyageur could not make it. They must have been some pretty intense paddlers to travel in such awful conditions. I’m kind of glad we were not able to get a canoe on that note. I probably would have been stupid enough to test my luck and Shelly’s patience with my decision-making. So all and all, I guess it was a blessing that we did not get our canoe for the several reasons I listed above.
We left for Huggininn Cove around 12pm. On the way out of Washington Creek at the Minong Ridge and Greenstone intersection, we saw what we already had known, part of the Minong Trail was closed as of 9/10 due to lightning which caused a wildfire. I forgot to mention us hearing about this news on the first day that we got to the island probably because we did not have the intentions of hiking on the Minong. If I am not mistaken, just as the sign had read, none of the campgrounds were closed because of the fire. However, the 10.6 miles of trail between North Desor and the East Hugginnin trailhead were closed. I know that this would prove to be a problem for Brad and Cindy, the people we had met at Feldtmann Lake and also the same ones we stayed at our first day with at Siskiwit Bay.
The Washington Creek campground map and the sign explaining why the Minong was closed:
Brad and Cindy knew at the time we spoke with them at Siskiwit that the Minong was closed. They had the intentions of going from Siskiwit Bay along the greenstone and cutting over to the Minong trail using the Hatchet Lake Trail to return back to Windigo. They said they were going to go from Siskiwit Bay to South Desor and on the following day go to Malone Bay. There they would get an update on the trail conditions and find out if things had reopened from Ranger Jeremy. If it was reopened, they were going to continue with their plan to cut over to the Minong Trail and make their way back to Windigo. If it was not, they were going to most likely still go to give things a go and hike over to Todd Harbor all while trying to figure out anything they could from the people they encountered. If word got around that the trail was open or if there was an update about the trail being open on the Little Todd/Todd Harbor/Hatchet Lake trailhead, they would continue with their plan to hike the Minong. If luck were not on their side, they would retrace their steps and head back to Windigo using the Greenstone Trail. Obviously, things didn’t pan out the way they had hoped to and I can only imagine what they actually decided on doing. My guess is that they just took the Greenstone Trail back to Windigo, but rather than speculating, I sure would have loved to have known what their final verdict turned out to be.
If I am not mistaken, we got to Hugginnin Cove around 2:30pm. I remember the hike there being an extremely warm one. When we left, the sky was cloudy and dark so Shelly and I wore our rain gear. Eventually the sun began creeping out in the middle of the hike and we had to strip down to a single layer. The hike over to Hugginnin Cove on the west side of the trail proved to be nothing too exciting. The campgrounds and the cove itself looked very beautiful. It had a rocky shoreline that had Superior waters crashing into it.
A picture of the Hugginnin Cove map and some pictures of the campground area:
We found Kara and Phil staying at site #1. As we had suspected, they had made it to Hugginnin from Feldtmann shortly before we did. They took the east path of the trail and planned to take the west path back to Windigo early tomorrow morning to catch their seaplane at 9am. We knew they were fast individuals and did not see this posing an issue for them. We told them about our unfortunate luck with the weather when they asked why we weren’t canoeing as planned. We also explained how the Voyageur had been delayed a day. At the time, I wondered how the seaplane would handle the weather come tomorrow. I didn’t want to be a negative Nancy and suggest that there might be room for concern about the seaplane making it tomorrow, so I kept my mouth shut. Plus I have not had any experience with the seaplane, so who was I to speak on the matter. Regardless, things would turn out however way they would so no need for me to cause any worry.
After talking with them a while longer, we moved onto checking out the campsites and grabbing a snack out of our backpacks. We left Hugginnin Cove at around 3:15pm to find out Kara and Phil were correct about the east side of the Hugginnin Cove trail having some nice views. Shortly after leaving the campgrounds, the path gets narrow as it ascends up and down through a rocky gorge pathway. There are parts that jut out and overlook Lake Superior. It was quite a beautiful thing to witness as we saw the waves from Superior crash into the rocks that laid 30ft below us in certain places. Eventually you end up making a sharp right where you begin climbing the face of a hill that leads you away from Lake Superior. The path more or less begins looking just like it did when we made our way to Hugginnin Cove on the west side. So, while others may not agree with me on this matter, I found the vast majority of the Hugginnin Cove trail to be nothing special outside of the mile leading out of the east side of the campgrounds. I will say that the campground itself is definitely worth visiting and staying at if you have the time.
Some pictures taken while walking along the east side of the trail leading out of Hugginnin Cove:
Shortly after climbing away from the shoreline, it began drizzling lightly. Shelly and I debated on whether or not to put on our rain gear as we hid under the cover of a tree. In the end, we decided to put on our rain jackets, but would take them off soon after things subsided about 15 minutes later. On the way back we stopped at the Windigo mine to check out the old railway. While there was a set of tracks that traveled for some ways, I never came into contact with a railcar or anything that may have traveled on the tracks. With Shelly relaxing back by the entrance of the mine, I didn’t take the time to investigate the area more thoroughly.
Shelly and I made it back to Washington Creek around 6pm and started cooking dinner. When we were finished cleaning up, we began getting our stuff together for the following morning. Last night Shelly and I came to the conclusion that if the Voyageur did not have the intentions to circumnavigate the island in one day and leave back to Grand Portage on the same day, we would without a doubt take advantage of the opportunity to leave the island on Friday (tomorrow). Even if the captain had decided to leave today, the chances were very likely that we would have been on the boat even if we couldn’t take the risk to go to Hugginnin Cove and make it back for its departure sometime in the early evening.
Long story short, we were happy that it was leaving tomorrow afternoon rather than today, because it allowed us to pay a visit to Hugginnin Cove. However, with not much else to do being that we were not canoeing and having already visited Hugginnin and Feldtmann, we had run out of things to do. Also, while the Voyageur would now be shifting over to a back and forth schedule to and from the island on Saturday and Sunday (exactly why we planned our trip at this time, so we could leave on Saturday rather than waiting until Sunday for the Voyageur to circumnavigate the island. Leaving on Sunday would be the biggest waste of time ever, because there was no way we would want to drive all the way back to Chicago in one day so we would make it to work on Monday and there was no way we wanted to have to take off work on Monday to drive back from our vacation) and with us scheduled to leave on Saturday, who was to say the weather wouldn’t turn bad again and force us to stay on the island even longer due to another delay. We thought it best to get off the island sooner rather than later due to Shelly’s job not being as flexible as mine.
Truth be told, and I know this is blasphemy on the forums, Shelly and I were both ready to get off the island. It had been a long and exciting trip, but it was soon getting to the point where we were both getting burnt out. I know I would regret having been in this frame of mind once we were actually off the island. I always miss the place as soon as I am back on the mainland. Shelly can concur with me on matters. Yet, with out plans changing several times, once with deciding to leave out of Malone Bay and again with not being able to canoe on the account of having less than ideal weather, not to mention being uncertain about whether or not the Voyageur would make it back on Saturday should we have happened to leave on our scheduled date; it just felt like a longer trip than it actually was. I remember that even our trip in 2011 where we walked from Rock Harbor to Windigo on the Minong Trail and back to Rock Harbor on the Greenstone Trail not seeming to be as long. It was also chillier than the times where we had come in May and late August. While we loved the total lack of bugs, it’s nice staying in the 50-degree range and not dropping below that. I will say that this definitely affected Shelly more than it did myself. I sleep a lot warmer at night than Shelly and while we have sleeping bags that are good for temperatures as low as 25 degrees, Shelly still felt the need to wear most of her layers at night. Furthermore, it definitely makes it more difficult to want to crawl out of your sleeping bag and get read for a day of hiking when your one degree away from entering into the thirties. Shelly and I still want to pay a special visit in October one day when the Ranger III runs a limited passenger voyage so we can see the colors, but beyond that, it would probably be preferable on both our parts not to go this late in the season again.
Returning back to Thursday evening, after we tided up for tomorrow’s departure, we boiled some water for some hot chocolate and headed over to the ranger station for a presentation about the animals on Isle Royale lead by Ranger Valerie. We were the first ones to get there before the four kayakers eventually arrived. It looked like is was just going to be us until Ranger Valerie said that she was expecting her school group that was staying at the group campsites to come, but decided to start without them when they did not show up 15-minutes after the scheduled start time for the presentation. As it would turn out, they would show up a few short minutes later and we would restart the presentation for them.
Apparently the school that they were from had sent students in two one-week waves. The first wave of students was on the ferry with us on 9/10 when we came to the island. The second of them were supposed to have come on Wednesday (yesterday) but due to the ferry being delayed, they did not get here until today. Shelly and I recall them unloading their things from the ferry today and gathering everything under the pavilion so it could be carted over to the group sites. They had packages of rice krispy treats, chips, chocolate bars, and all types of goodies that children would live off of it were not for their parents pushing more nutritious food upon them. I jokingly told Shelly we should steal their king sized family package of rice krispy treats earlier this morning when no one was near the picnic bench they were placed on and got an elbow in the ribs.
It was enjoyable to watch the kids get excited about the presentation and participate in the parts where volunteers were needed. It was also hilarious to see Shelly get volunteered to answer a question that she had no idea what it was asking, looking over to me for help, getting asked again “If she was a gambling squirrel”, and then have to be told that the reply that was being looked for was “Yes, she was a gambling squirrel.” This all related back to an activity that showed what animals had the opportunity to make in to the island but didn’t, ones that made it to the island but did not survive, and ones that are still on the island to this day. After the presentation had concluded, we walked back to the campgrounds with our headlamps and went to bed after cleaning out our hot chocolate cups. It would pitter-patter on our roof all night.
The sun setting at Windigo and leading into our last evening on the island for this trip:

343.1 Miles Hiked: 2004 (3 Days), 2010 (11 Days), 2011 (13 Days), 2012 X 2 (8 + 12 Days), 2013 (9 Days/Paddling), 2019 (30 Days/Paddling)