TR - 8/23 to 8/27/2013 Rock Harbor Area (First Timer)

[killendino]

First, a little background:

Let me start by saying that I am crazy. I have never been to Isle Royale. I was looking for a good motorcyle tour around Lake Michigan when my eyes wandered North and I spotted Isle Royale. I figured, why not? I had some extra vacation time that I needed to burn. I quickly became obsessed. I planned the trip in 3 weeks, having never backpacked before. Yes, I am crazy. My gear was not intended for ultra-light backpacking. It is for car camping.

I am in ok shape. 43 years old. I work out 4-6 times a week, generally 2-3 days of 45 minutes of moderate intensity cardio, and 2-3 days of lighter P90x style workouts. Those take about 50-60 minutes to complete. I carry some significant extra weight that I have been slowly shedding over the past 2 years via small diet changes, and increased fitness activity.

I did a lot of research on these forums, and it is because of this that I am "giving back" by writing about my experience. I learned a lot in these forums. I was also turned on to Mike's trip packages and such. I chose the Rock Harbor loop, paid my money, and continued planning.

I did an 8.5 mile test hike near my house in Warren, Michigan. I knew that this wasn't exactly indicative of the terrain on Isle Royale. I still had some left in the tank when I was done, and my trip plan did not include any hikes longer than that so I figured the extra energy would cover me for the extra tough terrain. The test hike was done with 45 lbs. I didn't want to be that heavy, and figured I could shave things down before I actually left, with a few smart gear purchases.

I drove up to Copper Harbor on Friday, August 22nd and stayed at the Brockway Inn. None of my research revealed that I would not have cell reception at Copper Harbor, or that there are no phones in the rooms at the Brockway. I was cut off already! The Inn was perfectly acceptable otherwise. At 8AM the next morning I was on the Queen IV headed for the island. I was surprised to find I had cell reception on the lake on the way over, so I made my last calls. I met several neat people on the boat. I believe there were around 40-50 people on board, excluding crew. Spirits are high!

I arrived at Rock Harbor around 11:30AM. I waited about 30 minutes in a longish line to get my permit from the Rangers. My 7-day itinerary was RH -> LC -> DF -> CBW -> Day hike to MC -> Moskey Basin -> ThreeMile -> RH for the return. Just before heading out, I noticed the chain where you can weigh your pack. I was shocked and dismayed to find that all of my little "Oh, I have to take this. it's light!" led me to a 65-pound pack! I stood at the foot of the paved trail, winding up before me. I was at the point-of-no-return. That simple paved trail was already steeper and longer than any up I had done on my test hike. I wondered what I had gotten myself into. Still, I am tough, and I am smart (probably lacking in common sense). I had plans for bailing out early if I needed to. I had done enough research to be confident that I could make this trip happen. So, I started walking. Destination: Lane Cove.

The Tobin Harbor trail appears to be the easiest trail on the island. At least, in my experience it was. It was definitely harder than the trail I practiced on, but I knew the hike was shorter. I took my time and rested whenever I felt like it. I ran into a young couple at the Tobin Harbor/Mount Franklin trail junction. I was covered with sweat. It was warmer than I expected. It seemed unseasonably warm. I was expecting temps around 65-70 along the shore of the harbor, but it was 75 at least. Anyway, I struck up a short conversation with these friendly folk. I asked if I looked "totally wasted", but the young lady assured me I looked great. This was the motivation I needed to continue on! I bid them adieu and set off on the Mount Franklin Trail. A portion of the way up the trail I stopped for a pleasant, woodsy lunch of nuts, dried fruit and a Clif bar. And water of course. I really got a sense of the island here. I was quiet, so I could hear it's sounds. I was entranced by bird calls I had never heard before. The smells were earthy and really made me feel like I was in the womb of the island. I was comfortable here. After a bit a squirrel loudly convinced me that lunch was over and I needed to leave his territory.

I ran into another couple on a day hike out of Rock Harbor, while ascending the Greenstone Ridge. They claimed to have seen a big bull moose not 5 minutes before, walking slowly away from the trail. I hurried ahead, eager to see a moose. Alas, I was met with empty trail the rest of the way up. The climb was the steepest and most difficult I have attempted since I was a child. It seemed endless. I fell once and landed flat on the ground. This was a wake-up call to me. If I broke an ankle on one of these trails, I could be in real trouble. I was already being careful though, so I pressed on. Eventually I crested the Greenstone Ridge at the Mt. Frankling/Greenstone Ridge/Lane Cove Trail junction. I was rewarded with some beautiful views, despite it being somewhat choked off with trees and vegetation.

I took a good long rest here. While I was doing so, a pair of gentlemen came along the trail from Lookout Louise. I don't mean to be rude by noticing and sharing, but these were older gentlemen; probably 70 years old. Both seemed hale and fit. One of them was having a harder time than the other. The trail was hard on him. I chatted with these gentlemen for a while. One of them introduced me to the thimbleberry, for which I am very grateful. I ate dozens of those delicious buggers while I was on the island. They weighed options and decided they were headed to Lane Cove. We agreed to make the hike together. They warned me that they moved slowly and that if it was too slow, I could move on past them, no trouble. Ha. These guys, these MEN marched the entire 2.4 miles of rugged terrain to Lane Cove without stopping, even for a water break, and at a speed that was somewhat uncomfortable to me! If I had made that march on my own, I would have stopped for water 4-5 times, and probably would have had a 20 minute break wedged in there too. These 2 guys ate me alive! I can only hope that I am in that kind of shape when I reach 70!

We finally arrive at Lane Cove after the longest 2.4 miles I have ever walked. The days hiking, with 65 pounds, and no real conditioning outside of gym equipment and dumbells, was really taking it's toll on me. We went our separate ways at this point in a friendly way. These were real gentlemen. There was no way, however, that I was going to head out of Lane Cove with them the next morning. A Ranger at Rock Harbor had warned me that the Lane Cove Trail was the steepest on the island. Of course, I was aware that it was rough based on my research on this forum. I wanted to tackle that at my own pace.

I set up camp, filtered water, and made dinner. I sat on the shore, in site #2 and snapped pictures of the sunset over the cove. It was absolutely gorgeous! A fitting reward for a tough hike. As the sun really got low, I decided to hit the hay and maybe do some star gazing a bit later in the evening. The stars were beautiful, the sky clear, and the wind making its way through the treetops was mesmerizing! I drifted off to sleep with the most wonderful sounds in my ears.

BAM!!!!

That's right, BAM. Lake Superior woke me in the middle of the night. I am not sure that she was pleased I was there, on her island. It was pitch black and the wind was howling. My tent was almost flattened from the force. There was lightning out on the lake and it was the most intense lightning I have ever seen. The staccatto flashing was non-stop. I felt like my tent was going to blow away. I sat on my knees for 15 or 20 minutes that night, holding my tent up in place while Lake Superior teased me. I had never seen anything like this, and I don't mind saying I was a little frightened! After a while the wind died down, but the lightning remained. I was able to fall back asleep with my "welcome to the island" party, courtesy of Lake Superior, over.

It was raining the next morning. I waited until it was done, ate some oatmeal and had some coffee, and then broke camp for the Lane Cove climb, at around 9AM.

I will cut this off right here and come back later and post day 2, if anyone is interested. Thanks for reading!

[IncaRoads]

Interesting trip report so far. Please continue.

[killendino]

I left Rock Harbor on Day 1 with 2 32oz bottles of water, and a 70oz camelbak. All full. This contributed to my weight. I did not have the 32oz Nalgenes for my test hike and had water to spare when the hike was done. I knew weight was a problem at this point. So, I figured I would make the next hike with just the 70oz resevoir and maybe 1/3 of one of the nalgene bottles. My destination today is Daisy Farm.

The climb out of Lane Cove was tough, but not impossible. The temperature, again, was warmer than I had anticipated. It had to be 75 degrees, even at 10AM. The rain storm of the night before drove the humidity through the roof. I was dripping with sweat in no time, and as I walked, I gave back to the island as sweat poured off of my face and onto the dirt, rocks and tree roots. I did my share of resting though and was able to push myself, elated, back to the top of the Greenstone. I was planning to stop for a while at the top of the trail, but I felt good enough to make the extra .3 mile hike to Mount Franklin. The views up there were terrific, of course.

I rested for a while on top of Mount Franklin. I chose that day to not put gaiters on and my socks and boots were soaked from walking through wet ferns in high humidity. I had a blister developing, finally, on one of my toes. I hung my socks to dry (note; Merino wool is nice, but not as quick drying as I expected it would be) and set my boots in a breezy place to help with the drying. I used some duct tape to take care of the blistering spot. I ate lunch and took pictures of the best view of the island yet. I met 3 hikers up there, in 2 groups and chatted rather briefly with them. I didn't want to interrupt their sojourn up there too much as a view like this is a big part of why you come to the island. My water supplies were just ok. I had drank the remainder of the nalgene, and a little bit out of the Camelbak. Once I felt refreshed, I re-shod my feet, hoisted the pack and started off for the Ojibway Fire Watch Tower.

It didn't take long before I noticed how warm it was becoming. I knew from my research that the ridge is generally warmer than the shores by the lake, but as a recurring thought, it was really warm out here. I marched on and started getting to areas where it was mostly rock. I was well exposed to the sun up here and it was really getting hot. It was way hotter than I expected even with the known differential between ridge and shoreline. The rocks in places had soaked up heat from the sun and radiated it back to me in a blistering manner. After my first real rest, I guessed it was somewhere between 11AM and noon. It felt to me like it was 90 degrees! I started having problems with the heat. I was sweating profusely, and drinking a lot of water. I was requiring more frequent rest stops. I was developing a headache. The sun was really taking it out of me! I marched for what seemed like an eternity, but I still had not seen the tower. I was starting to get nervous. I started conserving water.

At one point, I came to a promontory. The view was fairly stunning, but I realized that I had nowhere to go. I had reached the end of this part of the ridge. Now, real panic started to rise up. I was off the trail, low on water and felt I was nearing the beginning of heat exhaustion! I sat down up there, calmed myself, and took stock of my situation. It was breezy up there, which helped get my body temperature down a little. I still had the headache. There was not much to be done about that since I was low on water. I was down to 16 ounces in fact, and I estimated I had at least another .5 miles to the tower, and then another 1.7 miles to Daisy Farm. Also, before I could even look that far ahead, I had to figure out where the path was. I finished resting and stood to continue on.

I walked back toward where I thought the path was and breathed a sigh of relief when I found it, about 200 yards from the promontory. Big thanks to the NPS Rangers (?) for the rock signs they leave, marking the trail. Soon I was marching again, resting liberally, and watching for signs of the Ojibway tower. After another long hike, I caught sight of it in the distance. I was a bit miffed by the distance I still apparently had to go, to reach it. I stopped in some shade about 1/4 mile from the tower. Part of me was hoping a ranger would come along and offer to carry my pack the rest of the way to Daisy Farm, lol. My fear had subsided a bit and I finished the rest of the trip to the tower. Once there I committed to having a good, long rest in the shade of the tower.

The sun was still high in the sky. It must have been 2PM at that point. I was not making good time today, but I didn't care too much. I felt like my survival was at stake at this point. I still had 1.7 miles to go and only a few ounces of water left. Despite my headache and thirst, I was able to enjoy the view from the tower. I took a lot of pictures. While I was resting there another hiker came along. He is a travel blogger and had stayed at Lane Cove the night before. He was in site 4. I saw a tent at that site as I was exploring. We compared notes on the storm out on the lake, and the tough climb out of Lane Cove. He seemed to be in better shape than I was, and his plan was for East Chickenbone that day. I made sure to remind him that it was really hot, and that lots of water would be needed. He said he thought he had enough, but that he might head down to Daisy Farm via the Daisy Farm trail if push came to shove. I bid him farewell, hefted my pack, and set off for the last push to Daisy Farm.

The climb down was difficult. There was a lot of exposure to the sun. I had to rest a lot. I fell once, flat to my knees with that 60 pounds on my back. I was so tired I took that time to rest for a good 3 minutes, on my knees. I struggled up and continued on. I was having to stop and rest about every 500 feet. The heat was killing me. That was the one thing I had not accounted for...brutal, unseasonable heat. Heck, I had long johns in my pack for cold nights that never materialized!

I came to find out I mis-read the map; I assume due to near heat-exhaustion. I thought it was a straight shot down the hill to Daisy Farm. I had not counted on Ransom Hill. When I crested a small up and came ouf the the trees I could see the hill before me. That was cause for a rest, review of the map, and expletives. I hope nobody was nearby. I was out of water now and the prospect of climbing that hill was really causing my morale to sag. There was nothing for it, though. I was not ready to just lay down there and give up. I scrambled to my feet, hoisted the pack, put my head down, and started walking.

I'll cut the story short. I am writing this, so I made it to Daisy Farm, somehow. When I arrived there was a group of hikers having a good time at the first shelter on the left. I paid them a glance and shuffled forward without even a wave (sorry guys!). I checked the map for where the water was, and headed straight there. I filtered and drank, and filtered and drank some more. I got all the water I would need for the evening and went to shelter 7. It's kind of a busy shelter with people walking to and from the dock, but I was exhausted and needed to rest. It turned out to be a pretty nice choice. I suppose any shelter at any campground would be nice after the struggle I put forth that day.

It was that evening at Daisy that I decided I needed to change my itinerary. There was no way after that days performance that I could make the hike from Daisy Farm, to West Chickenbone, the next day. The thought of climbing the Greenstone again and roasting in the sun for a few miles was untenable. I decided that I would stay 2 nights at Daisy Farm and then decide what to do from there.

I really had a great time at Daisy Farm. There were friendly people about, and the reading box was a terrific way to rest up and not be bored. I read Carolyn Petersons' book "View From the Wolf's Eye". I also flipped through the guest books in the box, which was pretty entertaining. The people that visit Isle Royale are neat.

After a night at Daisy Farm, I was feeling really good again. The next day I did a short day hike around the area, trying to find evidence of the old mining operations, or town of Ransom. I found some things down by the water, but did not locate some mine related locations mentioned in Mike's Rock Harbor Loop package. I got off the trail here and there and just poked around and explored. I also swam in Lake Superior. Well, more like I waded in, stood knee deep for a couple of minutes, then came back out again, lol. Later that afternoon I broke out the map and tried to figure out what I was going to do the next day. I decided right away that heading on to West Chickenbone was just out of the question. The heat was too much, and my feet were bothering me pretty good by then. I think I could have made that hike, but I was concerned about the whole "getting back" part. I eyeballed Moskey Basin for a bit, but was daunted by Mike's description of that trail as pretty rough. Rocky and exposed. I really did not anticipate this unseasonably warm weather and became downright disappointed by it. I was hoping for what I consider good hiking weather in the 65 - 70 range, but it was far warmer than that. Ultimately I decided that I had accomplished what I set out to do, maybe not completely, but enough that I could start to draw this journey to a close. My plan was to strike out for Three Mile campground the next morning, stay the night there, and then head to Rock Harbor a day after that. I felt like my conditioning really could not safely allow me to attempt much more than that. I had already taken some risks that got me into some situations that I didn't want to be in again, and I didn't want to push my luck.

[Lucky Chicken]

agree... please continue! 65lbs is a lot I backpack a lot and I don't even ramp up that high for day hike training weights... I am assuming the whole pack made it back and if that is the case you are in better shape than you describe! My light weight 40lb pack (starting weight for a week long trip) wears on me on the big elivation days.

[killendino]

I have another couple of parts I will post a bit later in the evening. Thanks for reading, all who have! I hope maybe my trials and tribulations will help people with their trip planning.

[Tightlines01]

Love it so far. I found myself laughing from my own experiences similar to yours at times. Please keep posting.

What a great place eh? Trim that pack weight a bit even to 40# wet and you'll be amazed at how much easier it becomes. The first trip is always the hardest. Next year you'll be able to do much more.

Andy


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[hooky]

Great report so far. Looking forward to the rest.

[jrwiesz]

Great report; made my day!

I'll bet you are already having thoughts on returning.

Isle Royale Rocks!

[killendino]

Day 4 dawned at Daisy Farm. I had packed up most everything the night before. I was so shaped by the heat of the days that I wanted to leave at first light and get most/all of the way to Three Mile before the sun got too high in the sky. Even in just the 2 previous hikes, I had become more skilled at backpacking. I had learned to keep certain items in certain locations for quick retrieval. For example, I got that familiar "blister is starting" sensation and reacted with the precision and efficiency of a surgeon. I stopped immediately, dropped the pack, grabbed the knife and duct tape, de-booted and had the problem area wrapped in 2 minutes flat. I was a machine now. At tending to blisters anyway.

Today was very foggy. While I wouldn't call the air chilly, it was a nice change of pace from heat. I am sure I was on the trail somewhere between 6:30 and 7AM. It was still dark when I was doing my final packing, and light by the time I set foot on the trail. One of the things I noticed about being on the island, without a cell phone or even a clock, is you tend to get pretty decent at estimating time of day, even if not what day it is. I had been without a clock for so long now, I honestly wasn't exactly sure if it was Tuesday, or Wednesday. I could have counted off the days, but that was pretty much what I was trying to get away from by coming to Isle Royale, wasn't it?

The Rock Harbor Trail between Daisy Farm and Three Mile is very rocky. It also doesn't have a lot of ups and downs, which I was thankful for. I felt like walking along the shore offered me a good chance to see a moose, so I kept my eyes peeled for one. I felt like I was making really good time. I was perhaps 2.5 miles down the trail when I heard a noise behind me. Along came a young man; probably in his early 20's. He had a smallish pack on, a walking stick and was really making time. I stepped out of his way. We exchanged hellos and good mornings. His strides were 4 feet at least! I wistfully watched him and his tiny pack disappear down the trail, lifted my own 60 pounds (it had to be going down from eating food, right?) and started off after him.

I passed what must have been Mott island along the way as I could hear boats coming and going and some general bustle. Again, it was really foggy this morning, so I could not see out onto the water. I still got some good pics of the shoreline. I eventually arrived at a mine site. I got some pictures of a pit mine. But where are the moose? I was beginning to think I was going to get shut out on this trip.

I did end up making pretty good time, even with stops. I arrived at Three Mile campground at around 9AM. I passed the young man who had passed me earlier. He was stretched out on a rock, resting. I pushed on to the East dock. I took a good break on the dock when a thought occurred to me. Why not strike for Rock Harbor? I could push myself and arrive before the Queen IV arrived, and be in Copper Harbor by early evening. The thought of a warm bed, hot food, my tennis shoes, and no weight to carry around was really appealing to me. I decided to do just that. I was concerned that the trail between Three Mile and Rock Harbor would be too laborious and I would have trouble making good time on it, so I decided to backtrack a bit and march the Mount Franklin Trail back to the Tobin Harbor Trail, which I knew to be fairly easily navigable.

I chatted with some kind folks on the dock. They noticed my duct taped toes and marked me for well, I'm not sure what. Either clueless newbie, or wise expert. Like everyone I met on the island, and in transit to it, people were extremely friendly. Honest faces, I like to say. They don't have hidden agendas on this island. Everyone is there for the same things and people seem to want to help others enjoy themselves. There is nothing to hide here. Everyone is laid bare to the majesty of this place.

My course set, I packed up and headed out. The trip to Rock Harbor was uneventful. I toyed with the idea of going up the hill at Suzy's Cave to check it out, but decided I would leave that for a future trip. You see, I was already charting the course for my next adventure on Isle Royale.

Completely wasted and limping I stumbled into Rock Harbor right at around noon. The fog had delayed the Queen IV so I got there mere minutes after she arrived. I could hear her come in and sound her horn as I covered the last few hundred yards of trail. I went to the ranger station and updated my itinerary.

I sat on the dock, leaned up against my pack, filthy and smelling and watched all the new arrivals get their orientation. I must have been a scary sight for anyone that was new to backpacking.

Then I bought a $6, 5-minute shower. The first 3 minutes were cold. I made do. The ice-cold Dr. Pepper I had from the store at Rock Harbor was delicious. I bought a couple of trinkets for family members. Overheard, man to 14-year-old son: "$6 for 5 minutes? That is more expensive than a hooker!"

The boat was not full, so I was able to get on without trouble. I slept in the lower, forward area of the ship for the 3.5 hour trip. I had planned 7 days on the island and managed 4. I was fairly pleased with that outcome, even if it wasn't as planned. The reality of the ruggedness of the trails cannot be imagined. It really has to be experienced to make a real judgment about how difficult it is.

My journey had ended, but it sure left a strong impression on me! Isle Royale is really different. I felt connected and disconnected at the same time. I was able to leave behind all of my electronics and get in tune with that place. I know I have only scratched the surface and as one reader already surmised, I am already planning my next trip! I didn't see a moose, or hear a wolf, but I didn't need to, to say that I had a great time. I learned a ton about backpacking. I will take some time and piece together a good, lightweight set of gear. I kicked myself the whole trip for not having brought a fishing pole. Next time I will bring one (a light one!!). Since my best times on the island were the day hikes and exploring, I will highlight those things on my next trip. I think overall I wasn't in quite good enough shape for this. I will continue training and getting stronger. A lighter pack will help of course.

Thanks everyone for reading. It was really cathartic to "write" all this down. I *know* that people who have been to Isle Royale know what I'm talking about here, particularly with the feelings of being connected and respectful of that place. For the record, I followed all the rules of the island. I saw illegal fire pits at Lane Cove and I was pretty disgusted by that. I packed everything out, that I packed in. This place deserves our respect.

[MikeT]

Thanks for the great trip report! I think this is a great example of how deceivingly easy the trails on the island look. The rocks and perpetual ascents and descents can be harder than just a continuous ascent/descent that you experience in other places. It is also a great example of leaving yourself open to changes in itinerary based on how you are doing. I can certainly relate to your experience. My first time to the island was very similar and I was a very experienced backpacker having backpacked out west a lot. The island kicked my butt the first time!

This is a great read for anyone contemplating a first trip to the island. Thanks for posting it!

[nebelwerfer41]

A good read. I can commiserate about the 2.4 miles from Mt. Franklin to Lane Cove being the longest 2.4 miles I have ever hiked! The same thought was echoed by another pair of hikers that make the trek with us last week.

I had the same feeling as you on the Mt. Ojibway trail when I lost sight of the cairns. You have to backtrack to see the one leading down off the bluff, so you weren't the only one to make that mistake.

[NancyT]

Awesome trip report. I really enjoyed it. You brought back a lot of memories for me. You are not the only one who underestimated yourself. Good for you for adjusting where you needed to, some people aren't that wise and end up injured or ill.
Thanks for sharing your experience.

[Trmills85]

On my stay on May 28th, We also found an illegal fire "ring" made from small rocks at Lane Cove. We found it odd because it appeared that the trail clearing crew had just been there with the fresh saw dust and the charred area looked rather fresh. I thought maybe the rangers are permitted to do that because they are carrying so much weight with gas and a chainsaw. We disassembled the ring by spreading the rocks around and turned the dirt over in the spot to hide where it had been.

[killendino]

Thanks for all the kind words, everyone. I can't wait to go back.

As far as the Rangers going to Lane Cove, I believe they make that trip by boat. The travel blogger I ran into at Ojibway Tower said he was awakened out of sleep by a Ranger looking for his permit. That Ranger, he said, arrived by boat. That was after I had left, so I did not see the Ranger myself.

Side note: I noticed some Rangers actually open-carry handguns. That seems silly to me, even despite the fact that I own guns and have a CPL. Do we expect that Al Qaeda is going to come camp on Isle Royale? Without a permit, maybe? I sort of felt like that changed their image for me, from kindly forest guide, to cop, or something. Maybe a topic for another part of the forum...

[drobarge]

A couple of the rangers are cops- Enforcement Rangers. I suspect this is what you saw.