TR 9/22 to 9/26 2014, RH to MB

[frdm02]

I am sure this report will take me a couple posts to put together, and some artistic liberty will most likely be taken in "speaking" for my wife Nina on the trip.

We spent Sunday night at the pines lodge in Copper Harbor and I helped myself to one can each of the Keewenaw brewing beers that Ziks bar had available.

Breakfast was at the restaurant hotel, two other guys came in who were enroute to the island and after one made the comment to the waitress that this is his 43rd year going to the island. I told Nina I think that is the guy who wrote Naked in the Stream and later in the boat Captain Don made the announcement confirming my guess. It was also nice to meet forum member Mike and Nancy T while waiting for the boat. I had made a lot of use of his book in planning our trip.

We set sail on Monday on the queen to very calm seas, barely a white cap could be seen on the lake. Weather was a little cloudy and warm I believe the overnight low as around 50F. It was an partly sunny trip as this photo shows

My biggest fear of the trip was seasickness so the smooth ride out was an amazing treat. I was a bit surprised that as we set sail for one of my bucket list trips I wasn't really excited to be setting out. Oh my how that feeling changed as I got the first glimpse of Isle Royale on the horizon, I was on the front deck in a winter jacket (yes it was a warm day but not on the lake) drinking in the view of the growing island for no less than the last hour of the trip out. Here is a view that held me on deck, loved watching the fall colors starting to show on the ridge

Indian Summer was in full effect on the island and we had a temp in the high 60's or low 70's. The thermometer on Ninas' backpack claimed 82, but it was in the sun against a black pack. Being a very small group on the Queen we processed in pretty fast and set off to night one at Daisy Farm (here it should be noted I had told my sweet wife Nina it was a bit over 4 miles for the hike as that may be an important fact later). Here is the photo of us at Rock Harbor ready to set off on the Tobin Harbor trail

more to follow

[frdm02]

RH to DF via Tobin Harbor trail down past Suzies Cave and Rock Harbor trail the rest of the hike.

Ok so packs on back and away we go. I know Nina weighed in at home at 37 pounds no water aad I think she may have added a few "have to haves" after the weigh in. Mine was 57 dry, put all almost all the gear and food on my shoulders to help ensure Nina would have a great time and want to come back. We set off up the paved path and she was off like a rabbit, maybe all my fears of her not enjoying this would be wrong. We reached the split in the trail Nina confirmed back to me "Tobin Harbor right?" I told her yes and on we hiked. Glancing over my shoulder I noticed the sign post said Tobin Harbor, and going away at 90 degrees from us was the Tobin Harbor trail. Nina was having such a nice walk that I had to yell to let her know we were on the wrong trail. She smiled, returned to me and we headed on the correct direction. We hiked along and we in taking in the occasional breaks in the foliage to enjoy the views of the harbor. Taking into account how little her legs are I thought we were making fine time getting to the Suzies Cave trail in a bit less than 2 hours. Bugs were non existent for the entire hike and spirits were high. We set off down the path to the cave with promises of a cliff bar break and some time pack free as we explored the area and looked at the cave. And then we hit the first real climb in the sun of our hike and my bride came to a dead stop with a if you expect me to carry this up there I need a moment and a drink. We paused, packs on as she took her moment and we both got a drink and on we pressed. Still everyone was in pretty high spirits but I started to wonder why in the world I would allow her to carry extra stuff I didn't think we would ever need and in my pack was everything essential to our existence over the next week. Arriving at the cave I was happy to get my pack off telling myself that it will only get lighter as we eat. We walked around and crawled into the cave then Nina went to take a seat and rest a bit while I climbed to the top of the cave for some photos of the Rock Harbor

Nina working her way up one of the many rock faces on RH trail

After that bit of R&R we hoisted the packs back on and set off down the trail to the Rock Harbor Trail. Now I mentioned that I had read the book by Mike T and I was aware that RH was a tough trail. In hindsight we should have been heading back to Tobin as fast as we could go, but we trudged on me telling Nina that the views from this trail are much better than from Tobin (and they were) and I told Nina this trail would be harder (and it was). Ends up it had rained the Friday before we came out to the island and mud was everywhere. We set off down the trail with Nina in the lead picking her way through the mud, standing water, rocks and roots trying to choose a way that would take us to Three Mile Camp without slipping, falling, or twisting an ankle on this trail where it seems the only flat spot to step was either underwater or waist deep in mud ( maybe the weight of the pack, and the difficulty of the trail makes the mud a bit deeper in my memory than it was on the trail). I was really questioning if this was the island paradise I had envisioned or one of the levels of hell from Dante. After about half a mile on this trail at a pace of about 2 hours a mile sweet Nina asked me how far it was to Daisy. I told her that we only had about 3 miles after we get to the next break at 3 mile camp. Her eyes grew to the size of saucers and I realized that I may have made a large mistake in understating the first days mileage and as we fought our way up and down the rock faces wading thru the mud and water looking for a solid foot hold I was certain I could hear her cursing the day I was born for lying to her about how far we had to walk on this monster of a trail. Did I mention the views from this trail are amazing, not that you can really walk and enjoy them if you value your ankles. As we climbed on up and down rock faces and through the water and mud I started to think maybe the trip to Moskey tomorrow better not be up the greenstone, then back down the daisy farm trail before heading to Moskey or I will have lost a backpacking partner. Just as I had decided to make tomorrow a short hike I stepped on an uneven, wet piece of rock (how much water does moss hold that it can leak out on the rocks for days after a rain) and down I went. Laying there on my side, pack on I felt like a turtle stuck on its back. Tired, hot, and bleeding we made it to a pack off break at the Siskiwit Mine. I explored the flooded mine pits while Nina sat and had a real break. Then back to mule mode packs on and down the trail gain we went. Finally arriving in Daisy around 6 PM we were both Done and ready to have the packs off. I was a bit afraid I had pushed my bride a little too hard and now I would pay, but after we ate, took some photos on the dock and got ready for bed my Nina ever the trooper said I guess that wasn't too bad

[frdm02]

Day 2 DF to MB

Good Morning DF after a night late in September were I was too warm in my sleeping bag and had to keep it unzipped all night, we woke to a view like this, and had berry pancakes on the menu for breakfast, how could the day be bad? Of course that is taking into account the fact we decided to hike straight to Moskey no up the hill detours and we will take in the ridge on the way back to Rock Harbor when the food is mostly gone and the packs are lighter. I explained to Nina that this piece of trail is ranked in my book as worse than the Rock Harbor Trail so be prepared for anything. We had our pancakes, walked to the dock and saw this little guy with worse bed head than mine

. On the way out of camp we ran into the Daisy Farm camp fox on the trail. He stopped within 5 feet of us to pee on the trail before walking off into the woods as if he was claiming the trail as his own and letting us know he had no fear of us puny humans. Got a photo, but it's blurry because camera was set on macro mode as I was taking pics of flowers just before the fox turned up. This stretch of the trail went up and down a bit, and the trai was sometimes hard to find across the rock surfaces, but being mostly free of mud it was like walking around the block at home vs our death march from the day before. There was a little evidence in the leaves that we were past the last day of summer, but it was a sunny 70 for us all day so we didn't mind at all that we were on the island in the end of the season when cold is such a concern. After about 2 miles we came across a couple trees that were down across the trail and packs would have to come off there to navigate the downfall, so we used that as a break point for a bite to eat. Putting the packs back on, we hit the last stretch and arrived as the third group in Moskey Basin selecting shelter #3, because it had a great water view and an amazing rock front porch.

We chased off the small flock of ducks that were on our porch and settled in for 2 days at Moskey Basin. Not too much after our arrival - a pair of otters showed up to greet and entertain us for awhile before leaving us to the finer parts of backpack life as in filtering water and preparing for dark. Later in the day on the Moskey dock, we were again entertained by 4 otters this time and one pup. The pup stayed crying under the dock when others took off. His mother scolded him as she swam back to get him. After a MountainHouse dinner we celebrated our up coming off day with some star gazing and a Solo Stove campfire......love my twig stove! At some point after retiring to our soft cushy bed.......umm I mean extra firm bed, (wow shelter floors are hard) I was awoken by the hooting of an owl. He was joined by a friend and then a third chimed in. Laying there on a warm moonless night I wondered how can it get better than this, and a loon decided to add his haunting cry to the song. Not to be outdone the Isle Royale wolves chimed in fulfilling one of my island fantasies I softly asked Nina do you hear than and her gentle snoring told me no she did not, laying there listening to the waves and the chorus of the northwoods, I know a part of my heart always remains at Moskey Basin. Good Night Isle Royale

[Tightlines01]

Nice report. Your last sentence pretty much sums me up. A part of my heart will always be at Moskey.

Good shelter choice, one of my two favorites at that campground due to the rock ledge in your pic. It's awsome to lay on at night and feel the heat slowly release into your body as the stars come out.

[philranger]

Great report. Moskey Basin is probably my favorite campsite on the island. I took my wife to the island this year for her first trip. She also had a fun time and now knows why I keep going back.

[frdm02]

Thank you all for reading so far. There is a bit more of the story to tell even though it kind of read like I had reached the end. I want to tell the whole story as a first timer, so when others look at their first trip they have a good feel. It was the trip reports that sold the trip to Nina. I wont get to finish the story today, sorry. Here is a photo of a solo stove campfire and our eno string lights at moskey. Love the enos.....barely heavier than the 2 AA batteries that run them and serve as spare gps or camera batteries and one strand plenty of light to read by

[JonG]

Nice report. My daughter, son and I were there last week as well, you may remember us first as the trio on the Tobin Harbor Trail and later at Moskey, me asking you about your twig stove and then at L.Richie as we were headed to Chickenbone West. We also saw the otters at Moskey, the first time down by the dock with the mother carrying a partially eaten lake trout being chased by her pups. Glad you and your wife had a good trip. I won't even ask my wife to go, I know she would be miserable. I am grateful I have grown kids who have a love for backpacking and Isle Royale though.

[frdm02]

I remember you well Jon, my wife seemed a bit impressed that you made your own alcohol stove. Did your daughter ever manage to catch a fish. or was the snag her best catch of the week?

[JonG]

I like the alcohol stove and having a cat, the parts are rescued from the recycle bin. Mine is based on the Cat Stove, plans are on the net if you are interested.
My daughter caught nothing but snags, losing her best lure and then while on the trail repeatedly getting her pole hung up on branches and trees that had fallen over the trail. She made a last minute decision on bringing it, she loves to fish, but could have done more research on where to fish, what lures to use, etc.
Hope to read more from your trip. I'm shooting at putting one together this weekend if I can get work projects caught up and figure out how to post pics.

[NancyT]

Great trip report so far Dave, I'm working on mine as we speak. It will take me a few days to get it done. It was nice meeting you and Nina, I'm glad the Rock Harbor trail didn't scare her off.

Jon, it was nice meeting you and Rachel as well (I didn't meet your son). She was a bit nervous, hope everything went well for her. Looking forward to your trip report.

[tree rattt]

Nice report ! I bet we would all like to hear more.....being January and needing a fix and all

[frdm02]

Ok after a long hiatus I believe it is time to tell the last couple days of my first trip to Isle Royale. Note pad in hand of the trip log, and photos found on the hard drive here we go.

Being a side sleeper the Thermarest I have, even when placed on top of a z rest, seems to not be the cushion my old (well middle aged) body needs for a great nights sleep. Some tossing and turning due to numb arms gave me ample opportunity to enjoy the sounds of the island and the wild rather than the sounds of other campers and or traffic that camping so often seems to include. To say it was heavenly would be an understatement but there was one puzzling splashing sound I heard semi frequently through the night wasn't a wave and shining a light across my front porch (rock slab) to the water showed no signs of ducks or otters that wanted to call my porch home for the night, part of me always hoped it would be a wading moose, but alas the sound was to be a mystery to me that night.

I woke in the predawn glow and decided that a Moskey Basin sunrise was on the agenda so I kissed my bride told her I would bring coffee when its ready and went out to watch mother nature wake up. Fine decision as a lake superior sunrise/sunset never seems to disappoint

At some point before the sun had cleared the ridge across the basin we had the return of the otter family and I enjoyed their antics a fair while before they moved on to entertain the other campers.

Our plan for today was today was a hike over to Lake Richie, lunch at the lake and then return to our shelter for another day at the Basin. After a meal of mountain house eggs (eww never again....well after this trip) and some Starbucks instant i tied up a day pack using paracord and a sleeping bag stuff sack to carry our stove, lunch and books for our days adventure. The trail out to lake Richie was easy hiking and we made very good time. We got our first up close glimpse of the fall colors of the island, passed plenty of moose and wolf sign, but alas none of the actual animals to be seen. We did have the good fortune to spend some time watching an eagle soaring in the thermals, and another beautiful sunny fall day with temps around 70. It was a perfect day to hike slow and unencumbered by a pack just taking in the sights and sounds the island had to offer and enjoying each others company.

Upon arrival to Lake Richie we staked out a spot for lunch, and settled down to read and sit by the lake. After passing a bit of the day in that manner I fired up the solo stove for a backpacker pantry meal of Cuban black beans and rice. I found it amazing Nina, not impressed. Here is me cooking and a nice view of the lake.

After lunch we strolled back to our honeymoon suite at Moskey Basin and explored the camp area, again we saw otters and Nina decided it was time for a Lake Superior dip, I was not so much on board. So in she went while I supervised. That "swim" lasted about 5 minuets and then it was hours for her to feel warm again. For me it was cold watching but I was instantly warm again being that I never passed my ankles. A pleasant evening was spent with another mountain house dinner. I forgot to note what flavor of that nights meal, a short solo stove campfire and pretty early to bed as tomorrow was our long hike. Moskey to 3 mile via Mt Ojibwa, the Greenstone trail, and then descending the Mt Franklin trail. Again as we slept we were treated to the chorus of the northwoods and I reveled in hearing the song of the wolves for a second night on the island. Unfortunately at some point in the evening Nina was taken ill she believes it was the black bean meal that disagreed with her system, I lean more on that she didn't get enough fluids that day. I spent a part of my night hoping that she would wake feeling better. As she was very worried about missing the boat on Friday she was admit we had to be at 3 mile or rock harbor camp the next night to minimize hike time to catch the ferry. I did not want to make her hike ill, but at the same time she would not be able to relax unless we were at one of those two camps. Fingers crossed I dozed off and hoped a nights sleep will rejuvenate my Nina.

[frdm02]

Last day on the island, Nina has been up and down all night with her stomach issues, I have a sinking feeling about this days hike. We may have to call it a day at Daisy Farm and hope that she is feeling better on Friday to hit the trail to make the ferry. My Garmin tells me I have about an hour and a half until sunrise, its still dark but I am done sleeping so it is time to get up and start some coffee. I try to sneak out to not disturb my sleeping Nina but fail so I kiss her and tell her to sleep as long as she would like. She said thank you and told me still not feeling well. I light a small fire and put on some coffee. As the water starts I decide that I am going to try a time lapse sunrise series and shoot a photo every 15 min. This post may get a bit long as I try and share a bit of that magic with you all. Here is the very first light of day.

Not much after this photo I again heard the mystery splash so quickly walked to the lake shore to see if I could find its source, not a moose as I hoped, but rather a beaver hauling a branch off to its dam wherever it may be.

Here is the next sunrise time lapse

[tree rattt]

A trip report in February you sure made my day! Thanks

[frdm02]

Finishing up the sunrise sequence then later today will tell the story of our last day and a half on island

followed by this in sunrise

and last this before the clouds set in

ok some things to do around the house and will finish the tale soon