Advice sought: is my itinerary too conservative?

[Grebe_foot]

Hi all,

I've gained so much from reading your conversations on this forum! You've all emboldened me -- after weeks of mulling it over and eyeing my sleeping bag, I bought tickets for my first trip to Isle Royale! I'm going into and out of Rock Harbor, Sep 12-19.

I was wondering if I could solicit some advice from anyone who has time. Some context: This will be a solo trip, and I'm not a super experienced backpacker. I've only done one solo trip, for a single night. And I've done several multiple-night backpacking trips, all in Harriman state park, and all hiking very short (5 mile) distances. Harriman has some tricky, steep trails, but these were not endurance experiences. On the other hand, I'm a moderately experienced camper in general. I've slept probably 100 nights at Agawa Bay.

Some context about fitness and equipment: I'm 30, in decent shape. I have a chronic lumbar disc issue, but my pack is really comfy and I think I might manage to get my bag's starting weight below 30 lbs. (I weigh 120.) Also, every backpacking trip of my life has, strangely, left my back feeling better. (Maybe the desk job is the problem.) I have a gore-tex raincoat and I just scored some Cabela's rain pants at goodwill! My hiking boots are very supportive but I hate clunky boots, so I'm bringing my awesome 15-year-old tennis shoes as well. My sleeping bag is down, EN rated down to 32 F ... but I've struggled to keep warm on 50 F nights in this bag. So staying warm on Isle Royale will be an issue for me. I'm considering bringing a small down quilt as well.

So! Given all that, here's my plan for the 7 nights on the island. I suspect it is too conservative, and I'd love feedback on this. Spend first night at Three Mile. From there, make my way to Moskey Basin, where I'll stay for a few nights before heading on to Lake Richie. From here, head back along roughly the same route, taking several days to get back to Rock Harbor. Notice the two really disappointing things about this itinerary: 1) I never once even approach the spine of the island, so I'm missing out on some different views and some different biology (apparently a flower endemic to Isle Royale grows at Mt. Franklin!). I also really am drawn to Lane Cove so I'd be sad to miss it. 2) I'm retracing my steps. This conservatism is all in the name of not getting lost, and not getting fatigued and spraining an ankle. Opinions?

Other things I'd love advice about:

1) I made a frustum-shaped windscreen for my canister stove (MSR pocket rocket). Tested it out on a sunny day to ensure that the canister stayed cool enough to touch, so I think it's safe. I haven't determined the fuel savings this will give me, so I'm pretending it won't help at all. From reading others' advice on this forum, it seems in windy conditions I can expect to boil 0.6L of water per ounce (mass, not volume). I'm having hot breakfasts, a cup of tea a day, and hot dinners, all the just-add-boiling-water style. I'm also planning for one extra day of meals. After doing some math, I'm bringing two 8-ounce canisters of fuel! I know I'll have lots left over, but the question again is: is my conservatism going too far here?

2) I have had only great experiences with my water filter (a katadyn hiker pro). When I go backpacking, I bring this filter and some chlorine tablets in case the filter fails. But in the case of IR, my chlorine tablets won't be very helpful -- I've read on this forum that the island has a parasite that isn't killed by chemical means. Does anyone have thoughts on this? I have a new replacement cartridge for my filter; should I bring that? Or should I just plan on boiling water in case my filter fails?

3) To help me sleep at night: anyone want to throw out reassuring stories about rutting moose bulls NOT trampling people?

4) I love solo canoeing and kayaking. I'm a little unclear on whether rentals are available on the island this late in the year?

5) Regarding electrical storms: if I'm staying away from the ridge, how concerned should I be about lightning? Is my main concern going to be falling trees? I'd love to hear thoughts on this...

6) I'm a biologist, and I'm wondering if anyone knows details about resident biologists on the island. Any of them working on the Rock Harbor side? Do you think they'd be willing to chat?

7) Does anyone know if Founder's makes dehydrated beer?

Thanks in advance, everyone! When I get back I'll try to post a detailed report! I will also try to keep notes about the exact amount of water I end up boiling, and I'll weigh my canisters when I get home. Maybe that will help others decide if this type of windscreen is worth it.

[Midwest Ed]

My advice is better to be too conservative than too aggressive. Your pace is slower than than most but the good new is that after Labor Day the consecutive stay restrictions for each campground are removed. The crowds thin out also so you shouldn't have problems finding any campsites. You can always alter your itinerary anytime so after awhile you might decide to stay longer in one place or another. I'd suggest making your way to Lake Ritchie or Moskey Basin without too much lingering along the way. Then after seeing the sights on the way there you can decide how fast you want to make your way back and where you want to stay longer. As far as seeing the spine, when in Daisy Farm it is an easy trek to the Ojibway Fire Tower or you can do a triangular route up and back to Daisy Farm. It's OK to leave you gear at your campsite and do a day hike so you might want to plan some gear for that possibility (small pack or water holder).

Situational awareness, especially when alone is always the immediate concern to maintain safety. Except for Lake Ritchie of course, I'd expect you will have access to a shelter if you like. Don't count on it but during the middle of September chances are excellent.

[Ingo]

I'll be coming in on the Queen the day you're leaving--look for a guy old enough to be your dad, a daughter your age and a canoe, and say Hi.

I'm also bringing a 35 deg bag. It's my first fall trip, so I've added a bag liner and will be prepared to sleep in some clothes if need be. Since I haven't tested the liner yet, I can't say how much it's going help. I've read that using a reflective emergency blank on the ground (or shelter floor) can be a big help also--light and cheap, if crinkly.

Don't worry about being too conservative, it's your experience . Since you're not tied to an itinerary you can push it farther if you're up to it. But you should get up to the ridge. You could take the long route from Three Mile to Daisy farm, or if hiking with the pack is the problem, take some time for a hike from Three Mile or Daisy Farm without the pack.

1. I don't think 2 8oz canisters is any too much. I would always rather carry extra than be short.
2. I only bring 1 filter.
3. Never heard of anyone being trampled by a rutting moose. But am a little concerned myself, heck I'm nervous around horses and cows. Still, I'm going .
4. No rentals. Or store. Or restaurant. Everything will be closed.
5. Don't think lightning is much of an issue that time of year, but I don't figure there's too much to do about it in any case. Don't be under the tallest tree.
6. Call the park service in Houghton. They should know. And are friendly .

[Ingo]

and 7. I bring a flask with the concentrated stuff for a nightcap.

[treeplanter]

I can offer some answers, maybe, for a few of your questions:

3) As for being trampled by a rutting moose, back in 1994 or so, right after labor Day, we stayed at one of the shelters at Washington Harbor. There were so many moose walking around the campground at night I feared that one would trample my kayak, which I had dragged ashore. Never happened of course.
5) Never say never I guess, but the odds of an electrical storm are probably pretty low in mid-to-late September.
6) Rolf Peterson and his wife Candy live in a small cabin on the shore of Moskey Basin most of the summer. I met with the both of them last week. Both are very friendly and cordial people who love to talk shop. I'm not sure when they head to the mainland for the season, but they may be there when you're there. The problem is their cabin is rather remote needing boat access to get to. If you can get there though, the visit will be well worth it.

Enjoy your trip.

[fonixmunkee]

1) I'm bringing two 8-ounce canisters of fuel! I know I'll have lots left over, but the question again is: is my conservatism going too far here?

Not at all. You'll be good to go with two 8oz canisters. As others have already said in the thread, it's better to have too much fuel than not enough (the weight savings is really non-existent to go light-handed on fuel, anyway). One additional suggestion is maybe checking into cold-weather fuel (I think MSR calls it "four season gas")...check the temps and see what you're dealing with when you wake up and at night...you might want to spend the extra $0.75/can for the stuff that works better at lower temps.

2) Or should I just plan on boiling water in case my filter fails?

Personally, I don't bring a back-up filter...I bring a backup water pump! Seriously, when I hike with my group of three, we bring two filters. We use one all the time, and keep the other one on-hand in case it breaks (or, in our case, the ceramic filter breaks). I value piece-of-mind, so if its a paper filter and not a heavier ceramic one, I'd bring it (unless space is an issue). Bottom line: if you DON'T bring a back-up filter, be SURE to bring TWO 8oz fuel canisters...boiling water takes a lot of energy.

3) To help me sleep at night: anyone want to throw out reassuring stories about rutting moose bulls NOT trampling people?

Even though this sentence looks like it should make you worried, it won't if you don't be dumb like me: I was almost trampled by a moose in the middle of then night about eight years ago. It can happen, because moose have terrible eyesight. However, I survived, but not until I nearly filled my sleeping bag with my own excrement. I was at Lake Richie sleeping in a bivy sack with no cover...in the middle of a game trail (I found out later). In the middle of the night I awoke to the CLOMP CLOMP CLOMP CLOMP of something coming very close. I could SMELL moose. Then I heard it snort a few times, and I thought it was over. Fortunately, I made a few helpless squeals--and the sound of my friends snoring about 100 feet away--alerted the moose to my presence, and after a few more snorts, it clomped back off in the original direction it came. The next morning I could see the hoof prints in the soil...it had been only seven feet away from my bivy.

Bottom line: just use common sense. (Camp in the designated spots.)

4) I love solo canoeing and kayaking. I'm a little unclear on whether rentals are available on the island this late in the year?

Everything will be closed. No rentals will be available. Maybe go for a swim?

5) Regarding electrical storms: if I'm staying away from the ridge, how concerned should I be about lightning? Is my main concern going to be falling trees? I'd love to hear thoughts on this...

It's great that you're concerned about this. I've never been on IR late-season, but others have said the thunder storms that crop up during the spring and early summer aren't as prevalent. Again, common-sense and awareness of your surroundings are key to avoiding a dangerous situation, should a storm arise. Truth be told, I don't worry about electrical storms as much as I do widow-makers. As this season has shown us with a widow-maker-related accident that injured two people terribly, it's a real threat. Be cognizant of your surrounding (notice a trend here)?

6) Do you think they'd be willing to chat?

Others have pointed out the Petersons, so I won't dive into that. Rangers are usually pretty keen on the island's flora and fauna. Also, every single time I've been on IR, there's been students or enthusiasts who have at least surface-level awareness of the island's biology. So if you're ready to engage some strangers, you'll probably find people willing to chat about this topic. As others have mentioned, whisky makes a great ice-breaker for these types of conversations...

Have an amazing trip. A late-season trip to Isle Royale has been on my bucket list for 15 years. You're living out one of my dreams...to be on the island as the leaves change...enjoying the warm, sunny days, and cool, crisp nights. I'm envious. Please share a trip report and some picture upon your return. Safe travels!

[Midwest Ed]

OK as long as we're in a mode of trying to scare the heck out of Grebe_Foot regarding moose encounters , I'll add my two personal experiences.

First one was at Washington Creek CG while I was sleeping alone in a shelter. In the middle of the night I heard a platoon of Marines hit the Washington Creek beach. After much splashing it sounded like someone was beating the outside of the shelter with a baseball bat. It all ended pretty quickly and I did not get up until the next morning when I examined the surroundings. The only thing I found was a medium sized trunk (about 1 inch maybe) of some kind of tree that was now devoid of most branches and bark. Best I can figure is a fork of a bull moose's antlers hooked the trunk and then he raised his head quickly.

Second event was on a canoe trip with a friend. We were sleeping in our tent at the Lake Ritchie canoe CG when my friend woke me up after he heard rustling noises. We were both too afraid to make a noise as we both were thinking it might be wolves. The noise subsided but the next morning we were met with a dilemma as to how to exit our tent. A moose had completely covered the front porch with his fresh pile of moose berries. I think making a little noise would have been the appropriate thing to do in both cases.

[torpified]

I also have a tricky back that mysteriously resolves while I'm backpacking! I wonder if it's the posture?

In my nearly 3 days on the Island, I have never come anywhere near being trampled by a moose. I was solo, and while I was vividly aware I was somewhere remote and wonderful, I didn't feel menaced by anything. (Except blackflies.) That said, lightning strikes, trees fall, stumbles happen. Stay aware!

My itineraries are always highly disjunctive. That way I can adjust to weather and mood and . . . . I always let someone reliable (and good at logic) know where I'm going and what the decision tree looks like. So if I were you, I wouldn't feel locked into a single itinerary --- and I would consider adding a possible itinerary that takes you along the spine and down to Lane Cove. It sounds like it's well within your capabilities; the views from the ridge are terrific; Lane Cove is magical.

A connected thought about filters/packweight: have you considered a sawyer squeeze? It's light; it's always worked well for me; it's affordable.

I'm looking forward to the windscreen report! Have fun!

[deeman]

My thoughts are to REALLY try to sneak in a trip to Lane Cove. The 3 ridges you'll cross and very cool and offer some amazing views of the area. Lane Cove as a destination is awesome as well - you won't regret it.
For water, if you pull dirty water from superior you'll be ok. I suggest to bring an empty gallon jug tied to the outside of your pack to collect dirty water. We never used tablets in our water and never had an issue with our filters clogging. We used the Sawyer mini and loved it. Have fun!

[JerryB]

Enjoy your trip. You won't get lost or mauled by a moose. A few thoughts_-use a liner for your sleeping bag. There are many available and some are quite warm. Also, if you are concerned about being cold, consider down booties and hood (or hat). It will make a big difference. Canisters of fuel are great, but if it is really cold at night, put one in your sleeping bag. It will keep it flowing. I love Lane Cove, but it may be a bit more of a hike than you want. Consider a day hike to the ridge and maybe adding Chippewa to your itinerary. A great site and fits well into your plans. A final thought on filters. "Just in case" will quickly add to your weight, but here is an idea. Buy a Sawyer Squeeze filter and bag. It can replace one of your nalgenes, if you want, and also serve as a back up. They are quite inexpensive and compact. I pack mine in the bottom half of an old one liter plastic pop bottle,,which makes it easy to scoop water and pour into the bag.

Have a great trip!

[Grebe_foot]

Hi everyone,

THANK YOU all so much for your encouraging and thoughtful replies! Sorry I was so slow to thank you all; I was just on a camping trip with my mom on lake Michigan. Her first time backpacking, and she loved it.

Anyway, I'll be sure to say hi to you and your daughter on the 19th, Ingo!

And actually I received as a wedding gift a cotton liner for my sleeping bag - I hadn't considered bringing it, but now I'll see if there's room in the pack for it. At very least, I can see how it will make things less clammy and slippery.
I'll consider Chippewa harbor for sure! Maybe in lieu of Lake Richie, or maybe in addition to it.
I'll consider adding a Sawyer Squeeze. Seems smart! (I feel a little guilty about all the brand-new purchases I'm making... all the anodized aluminum and polymerized nylon... maybe later I can loan my gear to some scout troop to assuage the guilt.)
I'll bring an empty gallon to pull dirty water from Superior!

Torpified: I'm so intrigued that your back resolves from backpacking, too! I also wondered if it could be the greater attention to posture during a backpacking trip. I have another theory that is wholly unsubstantiated, but fun to imagine: one doctor told me that the fluid in the epidural space (inside the spaces of the vertebrae, but outside the outer sheath of the spinal cord) can maybe accumulate molecules that promote inflammation. So I like to imagine that each gear-laden step during backpacking kinda... squishes things around in there and increases fluid exchange with the epidural space.

Thanks for all your thoughts about the itinerary. I'll map out a "decision tree" that, includes trips to Lane Cove and Chippewa Harbor if I have a series of days with good conditions (trails not slippery, my legs not too tired).

Midwest Ed: thanks for the terrifying moose anecdotes! I will definitely bring a few xanax to gnaw on. And I will try to make a little noise if I hear some high-stepping hooves outside my tent.

fonixmunkee: I will DEFINITIELY avoid sleeping on game trails... geez that sounds frightening.

And thank you all for the feedback on the fuel! I'll stick with two 8-oz canisters. It is the "4 season" fuel, I think... an isobutane and propane mix I believe. I will sleep with the fuel in my bag so my morning tea is more efficient!

treeplanter: I'd love to meet Rolf and Candy, but I have no boat! I was looking at some satellite images to try to discern where their house might be exactly. Is it just about a km SW of the Rock Harbor lighthouse? Not that I can actually get there, but it would be fun to look at wistfully.

OK, time to replenish my first aid kit! Just realized my alcohol prep wipes expired in 1990 and all the alcohol has entirely evaporated!

[treeplanter]

.......treeplanter: I'd love to meet Rolf and Candy, but I have no boat! I was looking at some satellite images to try to discern where their house might be exactly. Is it just about a km SW of the Rock Harbor lighthouse? Not that I can actually get there, but it would be fun to look at wistfully.........

Actually, it's about a half kilometer west from the Edison fishery, right on the Moskey Basin shore (about a 15 minute walk along a trail hacked through about the thickest stand of balsam fir and spruce I've ever seen). Their cabin shows up clearly on the Google map imagery.

[Midwest Ed]

OK, time to replenish my first aid kit! Just realized my alcohol prep wipes expired in 1990 and all the alcohol has entirely evaporated!

I think one of the best items to supplement standard first aid kits are clotting sponges. They don't normally come in most pre-made kits, especially the cheaper ones; probably because they are a bit pricey at $10 to $20 each and are relatively new technology. They can be life saving should someone get a external, deep or large cut where the bleeding is difficult to control. They are very light weight at less than an ounce. Proper use does require a bit of reading or training.

You will have a great trip so don't worry about the moose. The fact there are no bears, ticks or poison ivy to contend with more than makes up for the remotest chance of an unexpected close moose encounter. I guarantee you the squirrels will be more trouble. If you leave your pack accessible and even partially unattended, they will immediately find any snacks in small pockets or resting next to pack fabric and then quickly chew through to access.

[jerry]

Grebe,
I had a bad back when I started backpacking. I seldom have issues anymore thanks to trips to places like Isle Royale for at least an annual trip. Never see a doc about the back at all. Carrying 25 to 35 pounds has really helped me.