Circumnavigate Kayak Questions

[Rafiki]

Hey guys. Its been a while. Hope all is doing well with everyone. I'm planning to head back to the island this summer after not being there for what will be 6 years. I have a new mission. I want to circumnavigate the island. Let's begin with some important information. I don't have much experience in a kayak. I mean I have been in one and have a general idea of how to control it, but I've been on smooth waters so thats not saying a lot. I recently sold a VHF radio, because I didn't think I'd be paddling at Isle Royale again (I like hiking more personally.) So hear are my questions:

1) Can it be done by a novice like myself? I have canoed to Belle Isle before from McCargoe if that is saying anything.

2) Am I correct in assuming that I would need a Sea/Touring Kayak rather than a recreational one?

3) Do I need a wet suit or dry suit (I don't even know what these are but saw someone mention them)?

4) Do I need a skirt (I think thats the thing that covers the opening of the kayak where you body goes into)?

5) Can I do it without a VHF radio?

6) Is two weeks enough time?

7) Would it be too ballzy to try to make it to Isle Royale Lighthouse?

On a side note, I hear that Blake Point can be treacherous so I'd be willing to make the Duncan Portage if you believe it would be too risky for a novice like myself. Thanks for any and all feedback.

[Base654]

1. Short answer... not a good idea for a novice, especially a solo novice. I would suggest, at a minimum, any solo paddler have strong bracing skills and rolling or wet reentry skills. (they make it look easy on you tube)

2. You would need a "real" sea/touring kayak. I have seen some recreational kayaks there, but they limit themselves to protected waters and when they do venture out into Superior they come back with some dirty drawers.

3. Wet suits and dry suit are substantially the same as SCUBA divers gear (in theory, practically they are quite different). a wet suit allows water to move around close to the skin, but insulates it with a layer of neoprene. A dry suit is a bag your put yourself in and stick your head out the end. (not really, but you get the idea) You stay dry inside the bag and therefore warmer. Dry suits with proper insulation under them increases survivability substantially over nothing or a wet suit. One or the other is needed. Paddling/kayak specific. not used SCUBA, freedom of movement and other parts make them incompatible.

4. Yes, and you know how to use it(i.e. get out upside down... see #1)

5. If you go into the water and lose your kayak, to you want a chance of someone coming to get you?

6. I have a friend that circumnavigates once a year ( with a lifetime of paddling experience) who reserves about a week trip. It comes down to weather. Winds and waves tell you if you are reading or paddling that day. He does it with four paddling days, but he is a power paddler with shoulders about as wide as I am tall.

7. Depends on the weather.

Blake Pointe: I have a nice picture of glass flat water at Blake from a few years ago. last year I tried to take a picture of my paddle buddy, but he kept disappearing behind the 6 foot wall of water. Weather is generally east or west. If it is coming from the side your on, it's easy to decide if it's a bad idea. If the weather comes from the other side, you don't know how bad it is until you are just about in it. Now you have to get turned around in the chop and waves, a thing big kayaks don't like to do without practice (see#1).

Safety first.

Now my suggestions for a novice. Get a half way decent touring kayak and stick to Rock harbor and the barrier islands or portage Duncan and play around in the protected waters of Five Fingers area. You can be safe from the wrath of lake Superior and a short swim/tow to land if your reentry skills aren't up to snuff. I love the Fingers, there is a lot of poking around to do just feet from shore. If the weather and waves are cooperating, you can scare yourself by venturing into lake superior a bit.

a side note. I see you are from Chicago area. Madison, Wisconsin host Canoecopia March 8-10 http://www.canoecopia.com/canoecopia/page.asp?pgid=1001 . This would be a great place to look a gear, albeit high end gear.

God luck, have fun.

[Rafiki]

Thanks for the response Base. Based off of what you told me I’m going to take 3 kayaking courses. One is basic, one is about edging and bracing, and another is about rescues and recovery. Should I take a course on rolling or is that only if your doing whitewater kayaking? Thanks again.

[Rafiki]

Also it should be noted that I’d be renting a Kayak and it doesn’t come with a spray skirt. Can I skip out on this item since it seems like it would be outlandish to invest in a spray shirt that I will only use once since the Kayak will be a rental and the skirt costs $100. I am willing to invest in a wetsuit since I can at least use that with a different kayak in the future. So will a wet suit without a spray skirt be doable?

[kolo]

Rafiki,

If you are interested in buying a radio, I have a VHF radio that I have only used once. It is in the original box collecting dust. I bought it after getting much advice (all good) on this forum before my first canoe trip to Isle Royale. I was only able to get reception/weather reports on the north side of the island. I don't speak French so the weather reports didn't do me any good!

[Midwest Ed]

Rafiki,

Welcome back. I’ve wondered where you've been.

Even though I’m not an experienced paddler, I feel compelled to offer a fairly negative viewpoint on your plan. In rough seas you should have a spray skirt to keep from getting swamped. By all means take all the courses you’ve mentioned including how to roll and recover. After your training you will be ready to practice some more and not just in a warm swimming pool. Then you will ready to gain some experience. Kayaking open seas in Lake Superior is not where you want to gain that experience. Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgment. There are plenty of protected waters on the Big Lake for you to get more experience. If it’s the thought of portaging that has you turned off to the idea, you can always use the Voyageur to get you in and out of Washington Harbor, McCargoe Cove, Belle Isle/Five Fingers and then there is the Rock Harbor Channel. A drop off at Malone Bay gets you into Sikiwit Lake quite easily.

If you still head out for a circumnavigation, make sure you take an extra couple weeks of food so you can comfortably wait out the bad weather. Also be sure to label yourself and kayak with personal info so your next of kin can be notified.

[johnhens]

1. Most experienced paddlers here will tell you IR, particularly open water, is not a good place for a solo novice. That said, if you take the courses you have suggested and master the skills and have a VHF to monitor the weather and/or be able to call for help, your choice.
2. You will need a lot of room for gear and food for a circumnavigation. More important, a longer touring kayak moves through the water easier than a shorter recreational kayak. This means less fatigue after a day of paddling. Also better in choppy water. Most recreational kayaks have greater initial stability but poor secondary stability. Touring kayaks usually have water tight bulkheads, which you will appreciate on wet days (still use drybags for gear though).
3. A wet suit is the minmum with a drytop. If you end up in the lake, it could mean the difference between a safe recovery and a far worse end. I use a 3mm farmer john with either a dry top or at least rain coat. It is common to get chafiing in your are pits. Either a rash style shirt to prevent this or Body Glide on your skin will help avoid this.
4.Yes. Prevent cockpit from flooding.
5. Weather is the big factor when paddling. A good VHF will pull in the NWS marine forecasts which will help keep you our of trouble. You can plan the next few days paddling based on expected weather. Any idea when you plan to go?
6. 2 weeks should be good, gives you options as far as being windbound, (will probably happen).
7. If the weather is good.
Blake Point, Locke Point and Hill Point can all be exciting depending on the wind. The stretch from Little Todd to Hugginin Cove is 14 miles with few options for take out if it gets rough. The section from Malone Bay to Saginaw Pt. is exposed with few options for take out.

[treeplanter]

Good stuff here. To add a few more comments.

In my younger days, I probably paddled about 2/3rd’s around Isle Royale (not all a once, but over several years). Yes, you can solo paddle around the Island. I met a guy back in 1990 who did just that. Some tips. Pick a good kayak and learn it. I used (and still use) a Klepper folding kayak, which are equipped with built-in air sponsons (air bladders). Probably the most seaworthy and stable sea kayak made. Google Hannes Lindemann and read about his solo paddle across the Atlantic Ocean in a stock Klepper kayak back in 1954. No matter what kayak you use, practice until all actions become second nature.

Paddle sometime in July or August. These months are when a large high pressure system often sets up over North America which can mean fairly light winds. Avoid September which is when the seasons change. The shift for summer to autumn usually results in killer waves.

Be prepared to spend a few days at one location if the weather isn’t cooperating. We were stuck at Duncan Bay Narrows back in 1999 for more days I care to remember.

Blake Point has a well-deserved reputation for treacherous waters. That said, pick and choose your crossing days. I paddled around Blake Point with my lady friend back in 2016 in what would be best described as bath water. Nary a ripple of water in sight. In 1999, we saw eight foot waves (from a distance) breaking over the rocks at Blake Point.

Allow enough time to explore. While stuck at Duncan Bay Narrows in 1999, we explored all of Duncan Bay. Likewise in 1992 at Malone Bay. It’s time well spent learning one spot on the Island.

Sounds like you have an exciting trip planned. Hope you can pull it off.

[Rafiki]

Gentleman, thank you for your input. So I have some additional information to add which has come apparent to me as of today. The courses I would be taking are on the open waters of Lake Michigan (I realize that Lake Michigan isn’t as beastly or as cold as Lake Superior, but I still was hoping that would give me much needed experience in your eyes. Does it? The next thing that became apparent is that my rental will come with a spray skirt and it will be a sea/touring kayak that is 14ft long. So I will have a spray skirt and appropriate kayak. Also I would be willing to invest in a VHF radio per everyone’s request (kolo I will be sending you a PM about your once I finish this post). I would also be willing to invest in a wet suit bottom per your request John, but the Dry Suit tops are pretty darn expensive. What if I were to go with a 4mm wetsuit instead to compensate for not having a dry suit? Would that be enough? For the record, I plan on making my trip from July 21-Aug 3, so the ideal time of year according to what was mentioned above by tree planter. Midwest Ed, in terms of portaging, yes I’d prefer not to portage if possible. I want to check out the ring of campsites between Lake Richie and Siskiwit which I don’t mind portaging, but places like Grace Island, the northwest side the island, and Meritt Lane are places that I would like to see from the water. On a side note, I’ve explored the five fingers and Belle Isle area by canoe, so I am looking to go beyond this area. On a final note, I am more than happy to be patient and not fight the weather if that makes a difference. Although people have told me that Lake Superior can change without a moments notice, so I don’t know if me being preemptive with deciding whether or not its safe to paddle on a given day and listening to the forecast counts for much. Does it? With all said what are everyone’s thoughts going into things now?

[treeplanter]

Weather forecasts are very helpful. I always carry a marine radio and monitor it daily. Whether or not I paddle on a given day is based mostly on the forecast.

As for Lake Michigan vs. Lake Superior, both can be bad in windy conditions. I’ve seen eight foot+ waves on both Lakes. I live about an hour from Lake Michigan so I paddle these waters much more than Lake Superior. The main difference I’ve noticed is the shore. Isle Royale is mostly rock. Lake Michigan is mostly sand. You can put in easily in Lake Michigan if a storm rolls up, around large parts of Isle Royale the rocky shore makes an emergency landing much more difficult, if not impossible. Another difference is lake Superior is much colder than Lake Michigan.

As for paddle clothing, for me it’s a t-shirt and shorts. I’ve never worn a wet or dry suit in my life while paddling (now 30 years). No need to in my kind of boat.

[johnhens]

Lake Michigan can get rough, if you have experience on Michigan, you will do fine on Superior. A lot of my early "open' water paddling was on Michigan.If possible, take the gear you plan to bring and pack the kayak you plan to use to make sure it will fit. I have seen folks with piles of gear strapped to their deck being blown sideways because of the sail affect of gear on the deck. The surface temps should be moderate at the time of year you are planning to go (though they can change quickly with a change in wind direction). I think a 3mm suit would be fine. Check with outftiters, sometimes they sell off their rental wetsuits.
The weather can change quickly on the lake. The NWS will broadcast warnings for these changes (usually). We were leaving the Windigo dock on the VII, when an emrgency broadcast was made about an intense squall coming our way. The Captain returned to the dock immediately (barely were able to get the lines secured) when the storm hit. VHF with it's antenae gets better reception than a small weather radio.
Going around Blake Pt. As you paddle down Merritt Lane, if the waves are active, you will hear them long before you see them. It can be calm in Merritt Lane and rocking on the north side of the point. We usually go around early before the winds pick up.
Are you starting in Rock Harbor? Where are you renting your kayak?

[Rafiki]

Treeplanter you are right about the differences in shorelines on Lake Michigan. Lake Michigan is definitely more sandy which means I have to be extra careful with planning so I don’t find myself being pummeled against the rock face of a cliff. VHF radio as just been upgraded to essential.

John Id love to practice loading up the kayak I’ll be using but I’m renting it from an outfitter in Michigan and I live in Chicago. I am starting at Rock Harbor via the Queen. I wanted to use the Ranger III but the time frame doesn’t work for me. Do you have any suggestions on which way to Cirrumnavigate the island from Rock Harbor. I was thinking Clockwise. Do you have any thoughts on which was is better than the other?

Thanks again everyone for your contributions to this post.

[Nick]

I've circumnavigated the island, although in stages. I'm pretty experienced and have done some sections solo, but no way would I try to do the Windigo to Blake point solo. I don't care how good you are. There are just too few places to bail if a problem should arise. You need a partner. You need to do a lot of pool and practice sessions with your partner--focusing on rescues, etc. From your initial post and questions, you are unprepared for a trip of this type. Please, get some experience first. Get yourself a good sea kayak, take the classes, then do some short paddles on the island. I'd recommend you limit your first trip to the Rock Harbor, Three Mile, Daisy Farm, Moskey Basin, Caribou and Tookers Islands. Even there, my wife and I had a really dicey paddle from Three Mile to Rock Harbor three years ago. A trip like you propose, with y our limited experience, is a nightmare waiting to happen.

[johnhens]

VHF radio as just been upgraded to essential.

John Id love to practice loading up the kayak I’ll be using but I’m renting it from an outfitter in Michigan and I live in Chicago. I am starting at Rock Harbor via the Queen. I wanted to use the Ranger III but the time frame doesn’t work for me. Do you have any suggestions on which way to Cirrumnavigate the island from Rock Harbor. I was thinking Clockwise. Do you have any thoughts on which was is better than the other?

Glad you are going with the VHF. We planned our trip to go either way based on the expected winds for the time period. We ended up going counter clockwise. We made our decision as we got to Copper Harbor (we took the Queen). We ended up paddling the section from Little Todd to Hugginin at night after being windbound for a day. We left in the evening and paddled till midnight. I had a GPS to show where we were at while we paddled. When we got to Hugginin, I got out of the kayak on the rocky shore and fell. That was the end of my trip.
Also, plan to bring a spare paddle. A paddle float is good to have as well as a sponge for removing water from the kayak (after pumping out using a bilge pump). I had a good headlamp (with spare batteries) and a flashing red light attached to the back of my PFD for night paddling.

[photosean]

Rafiki, hello! I just logged into the forums after a little more than half a decade ... okay, maybe closer to an entire decade, and stumbled on your post. First off, thanks for all your help on my inaugural trip back in 2012. Secondly, I may be of some assistance.

If you still live in the Chicago area, you're a stone's throw away from me in Kenosha, WI. I'm a bit of a kayaker, have a fleet of wood sea kayaks a buddy and I built, and live a couple yards off the shoreline. I wouldn't consider myself an expert, but I have made a few expedition-type trips up to two weeks long on Lake Superior, mostly the Apostle Islands.

As the temps warm up this spring, you're welcome to come up here and play in the lake with me and the kayaks. I can show you what kind of gear I wear and why I wear it. I have wet suits and two-piece dry suits. I can help you purchase the right gear on the used market or possibly lend you some of my gear.

Those intro classes you have to take when you rent a kayak are good, but a little more practice is always better.

I wouldn't venture on the lake (even in a group) without knowing how to roll a fully loaded kayak. On the positive side, sea kayaks are pretty simple to roll back up - way easier than my whitewater boats.

When I'm on Lake Superior (even in July/August) the gear I wear far exceeds the cost of my sea kayak, maybe even two of my kayaks. I wear a wetsuit (at the very least a shorty), dry bottoms and a top, paddling boots (and sometimes socks), fingerless gloves and carry heavy cold weather gloves, and attached to/in my pfd are: vhf radio, GPS emergency personal locator beacon (PLB), a strobe/beacon light, a VERY loud whistle, a mirror, and a knife.

Remember, I'm a minimalist, so it's hard to swallow the fact I need all this gear.

The VHF radio is great, but it's only line-of-sight up to 5 miles, that's why I carry the PLB. Also, know your hailing channels and emergency channels along with how to communicate an emergency on the radio.

Again, if you can get up here to play in Lake Michigan, or one of the inland lakes, you can get a feel for this type of gear.

~Sean