TR: 7/31-8/8, 2021 [Hiking][FL, SB, SD, TH, MC, CH]

[MrSniffles]

It was another great trip to the Isle. It was the busiest and warmest (air and water) we had ever seen across our trips in previous years. We also found a great deal of stuff left behind at campsites and along the trail, including a full tent’s worth of stakes, a bowl and a spoon, a shoe, fish batter, and a hammock.

T - 5th trip
N - 4th trip
M - 3rd trip
C - 3rd trip
E - 2nd trip
J - 1st trip

Saturday, July 31
GP - Windigo - Feldtmann Lake
Hike Time: 3:57
Distance: 8.5 miles
Avg Moving Speed: 2.6 mph

The group (T, N, M, C, E, and J) awoke at 0600 for final gear checks and packing ahead of making our way to the dock to catch the VII to Windigo. It appeared to have rained at some point overnight, but temps were mild and the skies did not appear to show any further threat of rain for the time being.

E and J joined the rest of the group down at the dock and quickly learned they would unfortunately need to take the Sea Hunter over as originally reserved and not be able to ride with the rest of us who booked the VII earlier in the year. Captain Ben, a now familiar face of ours at the helm of the VII, noted the boat was at full capacity, and it was evident by the crowd lined up on the dock, including a group of Boy Scouts, some dressed not-so-Isle-appropriately (jeans, hoodie, etc).

The ride over was the most “rough” we had seen on three previous trips to Windigo in years past. None of us felt queasy, but there were a couple of passengers who did feel the effects and came to the rear of the vessel to catch some air.

Before we knew it, we were pulling into Windigo with skies mosty clear and welcoming. Off the boat, we went through a thorough Ranger orientation, and proceeded to get our permit under the pavilion just a few steps off the dock at Windigo, which was a nice change from years past of needing to go up the hill. We were one of only two groups who would be starting from Windigo, while all remaining passengers would reboard and continue to McCargoe Cove and Rock Harbor. Ranger Addie took our information, gave us a few trail pointers and updates (beach only from Siskiwit to Island Mine, beaver takeover between Hatchet and Todd Harbor, etc.), and we were all set.

After a quick jug up on water from the spigot, we hit the trail to Feldtmann Lake just before 1100. For the first time in the past two trips, we would be on this trail without rain, so that was a huge welcome. Within the first 30 mins on the trail, we heard the Sea Hunter pulling in and knew E and J would not be too far behind us. Ranger Addie would spot them and send them on their way quickly.

The hike was just as remembered, with R&R (roots and rocks) at every step (we would later officially newly declare this trail as our least favorite / toughest). The sun beamed down on us for most of the hike, and temperatures were on the warmer side. The four of us stopped at the Grace Creek Overlook (we didn’t remember a sign post or callout here in previous trips) for a break before continuing. We had passed a group of three women seated along the trail shortly after the overlook who advised us to be cautious on the trails as they told us they had a rough week of injuries with one of their group members having to be medivaced from Rainbow Cove the previous day due to an ankle injury. We would pass another pair of hikers not much further down the trail making their way to Windigo from Feldtmann. We kept on and eventually stopped with M asking “how much further?” while I said “we’re there,” pointing to the campground entrance sign just over their shoulder to their surprise. We were pulling into camp just a few minutes before 1500. Our preferred site #2 looked to have been taken just minutes before we arrived with a group of two just getting their packs undone as we walked by. We settled in next door in site #1, got boots off, and set up camp awaiting the arrival of E and J behind us. With no rain, we had our sights set making it over to Rainbow Cove, as it had been skipped over in previous trips due to rain. Within the hour, E and J called out their arrival and found their way to us in site #1. The group of six was now fully assembled to travel together for the remainder of the trip, with the exception of the return trip from Windigo.

After finishing site setup and catching up on the happenings of our separate hikes, we gathered gravity filters and dinner supplies to make our way to Rainbow Cove. Another group of teenage girls was already settled on the beach at the cove, and we would set up not far away to cook our meals and watch the waves crash below. As we ate and mingled following dinner, a darker cloud appeared to be moving in from the southwest point. Knowing there was a potential threat of rain, we wrapped up and got back on the trail back to Feldtmann in order to avoid a soaking at the cove. Back at the campsite, we prepared for the end of the night and tomorrow’s hike to Siskiwit Bay. J decided to take a walk down to the waterfront. Not 30 seconds later, she came back up the trail with big eyes whispering “there’s moose over there!” We all quickly followed her and to the right of us was a cow and her calf walking through the water in the reeds. The cow, mom, was not letting us out of her sight as her ears were perked up and making sure there were no sudden moves. After a couple of minutes, the moose would continue walking and disappear further down the eastern shoreline of the lake.

A short time later, the rain would begin to fall, steadily but not too hard under the cover of our tarp. It would cease and pick up a couple of times, but didn’t soak things too badly. It would be a rougher night of sleep as there was plenty of sound from moose splashing in the lake throughout the night.

Sunday, Aug. 1
Feldtmann Lake - Siskwit Bay
Hike time: 5:04
Distance: 10.52 miles
Avg Moving Speed: 2.7 mph

The group awoke shortly before 0700, packed up, and hit the trail at 0730 to make our way to Siskiwit Bay for the next two nights. We had learned in the past that a zero day at Siskiwit was beneficial for all and was a favorite place to stay for many of us as it was. The earlier start the better so as not to roast under the sun atop the ridge, and we were off climbing up the ridge before we knew it. After a quick break to appreciate the views down on Feldtmann Lake, we would continue and reach the tower for a break and brunch of sausage and cheddar wraps. Visibility from as far up on the tower that we could reach was great, with winds shifted and keeping the wildfire smoke away.

Boots back on, we would continue to Siskiwit. The trail was for the most part in good condition, with a handful of downed trees and obstacles to climb over, under, and around, and the typical and expected overgrown section after the tower that required us to tuck our poles in and shuffle feet for a period of time through thick grass. Within the last mile, the feet moved a bit slower, so half the group was a few paces ahead but mostly in sight when pulling into the campground. The first shelter was taken, evidently by boaters as it was not occupied but full of overnight gear, and other supplies were on a picnic table down on the dock. We would set up in the second shelter down the trail, which did not offer as much space in front of it. The rest of the campground was vacant. By now, it was hot and the sun was in a cloudless sky. The group went down to the dock for a cooldown and swim. We would quickly learn that the water temps here were much warmer than we had been used to in previous years (in 2018, we could barely keep our feet in the water). Calling the waters of Superior “warm” isn’t saying much, but it was refreshing. We returned to the shelter and were unable to escape the heat of the sun with the site offering no shade outside of underneath the shelter’s roof overhang.

After a few games of cards and reading into the afternoon, we would put together our hearty Thanksgiving-style dinner before going back down to the dock in the evening. By now, the group of girls from Rainbow Cove/Feldtmann last night had taken up camp here, as well as a group of boys and a couple of others in individual sites. While at the dock and looking toward the mouth of the bay, we saw a bull moose on the shoreline approx. 50 yards beyond the individual sites stopping for a quick drink before retreating back into the trees. Two days in and we had already seen as many moose as we’d seen on our two previous trips to the island. As the sun continued to make its way down, the boat and shelter neighbors we’d been expecting returned from a full day of fishing and pulled into the dock. As one of the fishermen was slicing Lake Trout filets on the boat before our eyes, they commented on how successful a day it had been, to which N sarcastically said “you know you can always pass on your extras to us.” 10 minutes later, after frying those filets, they brought over a plate full of freshly fried laker bites, which were to die for. We were very gracious for them sharing their catch and would talk for days about how good that fish was. As darkness was minutes away, we thanked the fishermen again and headed up to the shelter to turn in for the night ahead of a full zero day to spend here.

Monday, Aug. 2
Siskiwit Bay
Zero Day

There was not much sleeping in to be had on this zero day. N woke me up in the middle of the night to stargaze, which was a wonderful sight. In previous trips to the island, the moon was full and offered no chance to stargaze, so this was a great opportunity, and would eventually be our only clear overnight over the next week. Down on the dock, a couple of guys mentioned a fox came down to the dock and ransacked everything the boaters had left there after they retired to their shelter for the night. While they were also up late taking photos of the night sky, they said they ran into a bull moose on the trail leading to the individual sites on their way back up. They said the moose pooped right in the middle of the trail just beyond our shelter site and sure enough, there was a fresh pile of moo’ poo’ right there on the trail.

We sipped morning coffees and enjoyed breakfast that can’t be eaten “on the go” like other days. The winds had shifted and brought wildfire smoke into the bay, leaving the northeastern ridgeline across the bay difficult to see clearly. The boaters and shelter neighbors took off early, so the other shelter was now open. Since it was a better site and offered more room and some shade, we opted to pick up and make the move over there. The group of girls were the last to leave their site for the day before we had the grounds to ourselves. Naps were had, cards were played, trails were walked, books were read, stones were skipped. Also a lot of time to do nothing.

Before long, hikers began to roll in. Solos and small groups for the most part. We finished the day with easy freeze dried dinners, seeing a not-so-shy and slender fox pass by our site and slowly make its way down toward the dock, where we eventually went back down to for a while. A small boat with two fishermen would dock, where they sat dockside for the evening. Another larger boat could be seen slowly approaching the bay before picking up speed and docking. The boat had dropped two kayakers off at the point, who were paddling in behind them. Last to arrive was a sailboat as the sun finished setting. We had not seen any boats here in two previous trips. Tomorrow awaited a dreaded hike among the group along the beach and uphill for miles to Island Mine and the Greenstone Ridge. The zero day should leave us well-rested, though I did not sleep well and heard the sound of an animal licking outside of the shelter for what seemed like hours through the night.

Tuesday, Aug. 3
Siskiwit Bay - South Desor
Hike Time: 4:49
Distance: 10.3 miles
Avg Moving Speed: 2.6 mph

The day started on a timeline much like Sunday, waking up and hitting the trail by 0745. The smoke was thicker and could be smelled today. We started on and wouldn’t leave the beach. Not ideal terrain but we had had our share of fun trying to find the trail over three previous trips, so the beavers prevailed this time and forced us to the beach. We bypassed plenty of moose prints, and a few wolf prints in between, left behind in compacted sand on the beach. We ended up taking boots off to cross the foot of water pooled across the beach at Big Siskiwit River rather than soaking those and continuing to cross Senter Point. Eventually on the beach, a few of us would turn in to the trail where it allowed passage and change it up from trudging through pebbles. At the end of Carnelian Beach, we took a quick break before getting on the trail to Island Mine. Shortly up the trail, those at the front of the group saw a cow run across and up ahead on the trail quickly and into the thick trees. This was identical to the situation a few of us saw on our previous trip in 2018 on this trail. The uphill went on and on, before we reached Island Mine to take “lunch.” The group of girls from the past couple of days were just packing up from their stay here to make their way to South Desor as we were just getting back to our feet. We would eventually pass them as they took a break not too far down the Greenstone, and not much further down was another group of girls that looked like they could be traveling with the previous. Just after that, as I was at the end of the line in the group, I heard a rustle to the right of me down the hill and knew instantly it had to be a moose. Within seconds, a bull appeared through the haze. “There’s a bull moose over there!” I whispered ahead. As soon as the group looked, it ran, majestically dodging the trees and brush it ran through, and crossed the trail ahead and disappeared to the north. We couldn’t believe how big and quick it was all at once. So cool.

As we continued, we crossed paths with the Boy Scout group that we rode the VII over with on Saturday, who were heading the opposite direction to Siskiwit Bay. We pushed on and I got slower in the last two miles, trailing behind and coming in slow, arriving down the hill and into the campground at 1230. We took group site #1, which is a dust bowl, and headed to the water. It was warm, and a pleasant dip. The water here had a terrible taste. Not even the flavored waters or drink mixes could sufficiently mask it. Another group ended up arriving and took camp just down the trail from us, and the groups of girls we passed earlier reached the campground before long. We went back to our site to lay low. Tried to nap, but it was too hot in the dust bowl. We hung out under the tarp in the grassy area away from the dust for most of the remainder of the day. Had a delicious dinner and night coffee and went back down to the beach, where we walked around in the water a bit before I unluckily attracted a leech and what seemed to be hundreds of its miniscule offspring, forcing me to spend the next 10 minutes picking them off my foot and hands. We retreated to the site to call it a night. The group down the trail from us was noisy into the later hours but seemed to quiet down at the right time.

Wednesday, Aug. 4
South Desor - Todd Harbor
Hike Time: 5:51
Distance: 12.09 miles
Avg Moving Speed: 2.7 mph

A little bit slower this morning, it seemed to take a while to pack up but we were on the trail just before 0800. Not long into the .30 mile trek back uphill from the campground to the Greenstone, it was evident that it would be an extremely hot and humid day and eventually the hottest day I can ever remember on the island. A good sweat was worked up right away on that short stretch. We took a quick stop to stretch at the sign at the junction before continuing down the trail toward Ishpeming Point. We were cruising, and got to the tower before long. It’s easier to break this hike into thirds, with the first portion stopping at the Ishpeming tower. After breaking there, we continued toward Hatchet Lake. We had been setting over/unders on previous days on the number of downed trees we would need to climb over, under, or around, and no day would beat this one, counting some 30+ trees that would be obstacles over the span of this hike. It was clear the trail was maintained and mostly cleared up to South Desor, but after that, not at all. We would reach the Hatchet Lake junction before noon, stopping for lunch and an energy boost to take us home on the final Minong-stretch into Todd Harbor. We did our best to find a shady spot on the ridge, and fueled up and choked down what we were holding onto for the bad Desor water. Continuing on down and around Hatchet Lake, we would hit the Minong and run into the trail overtaken by beavers. The boardwalk is completely washed out and floating in the middle of the dammed pool, and the trail now takes you on a pile of dirt on top of the dammed material to the other side of the bank. The water was looking like oil had spilled in it (can anyone explain what causes it to look like there is oil in there?). Wow-ed by that, we continued on, practically running on fumes by now, passing a group of two making their way to Hatchet Lake before arriving into Todd Harbor just before 1400. We collapsed at the picnic table next to the fire ring while we contemplated where to stay, exhausted by the longer hike and heat and humidity.

A small group was just packing up to leave to Hatchet as we arrived, and the shelter and site adjacent to the fire ring were occupied by fishing boaters, so we opted to head across and up to the group sites, where #1 was taken by boaters, so we chose the “overflow” site #2, which we were happy with. This was another site that we would spend two nights at with a zero day to follow. A group of YMCA boys arrived quickly and took site #3. We went down to the dock to jump in and cool off while the boats had taken off for a bit before retreating to the site while the boys took over the dock. We played cards, took quick naps, and put our feet up before making dinner. After dinner, we walked through site #1 to check out the view but there wasn’t much of one with the thick haze leaving Thunder Bay mostly undetected. We went back to our site and would call it a night fairly early, even with a zero day upon us. We would sleep without rainflys to keep as cool as possible, which was a great idea as I still wasn’t even in my sleeping bag.

Thursday, Aug. 5
Todd Harbor
Zero Day

We slept in a bit to open the zero day after Wednesday’s exhausting hike and felt refreshed, even with the red squirrels chirping in every direction. We again enjoyed coffee time and breakfasts. The group in site #1 had already left, and not much later, the YMCA boys would be off as well. With nothing on the agenda, we quickly debated moving to site #1, but ultimately decided against it since we had a nice setup at #2, and liked the fact that it did well with shielding any wind. The only drawback was it was upwind from the outhouse, which we were getting whiffs of every now and then. We spent the day stretching out on the dock and doing much of the same of playing cards, reading, and laying low. We caught a glimpse of a bald eagle flying around the harbor, before eventually taking perch atop the pine on the small island in the middle of the harbor. It was gloomy and overcast nearly all day, with a short rainfall at one point, and the sun fighting hard to get a peek throughout the day. We did take the walk to the mine and waterfall in the afternoon, where the sun did come out while we sat out on those rocks for a while. We headed back to the campsite for dinner. It would be a slower night at the campground, with no boaters and just a few small groups taking individual sites and leaving the point to us alone. Thicker clouds rolled in as the evening went on, and the wind picked up. We again tried our luck out on the point, and although the haze wasn’t as thick, there again wasn’t much to see beyond the dark clouds bringing rain onto Thunder Bay. Into the tents we went, and with weather being a threat for most of the day, rainflys went on.

Friday, Aug. 6
Todd Harbor - McCargoe Cove
Hike Time: 3:09
Distance: 6.81 miles
Avg Moving Speed: 2.6 mph

A thunderstorm brought heavier rain, lightning and thunder through Todd Harbor overnight. We talked of how cool it could have been to take in the storm on the point and see the lightning light up the sky. It took longer to roll out of tents this morning, but with a shorter hike, it wasn’t of any concern. We would pack up and be on our way out of the site at 0815. As we passed through the campground toward McCargoe Cove, it appeared that everyone else had already left. We started off quick, moving well through the woodland on the Minong while dodging overhanging branches. Rain pants were worn by most to start, but got too sticky and were taken off by everyone at first break as most of the underbrush was no longer soaked anyway. On the second half of the hike, we were slowed down due to the slippery ridge rock left from the overnight rain. All of us had been slipping, so we took it slow with foot placements, especially on declines, but even a couple of minor falls couldn’t be avoided. The haze had dissipated with the rain, making the ridgetop views toward Thunder Bay all the better. Within a mile stretch, we would come up to or pass four different groups of 2-3 people going in the same and opposite directions. E, J, and C would stop at the mine to poke around while T, N, and M continued on to McCargoe, aiming to get in a shelter. Arriving before 1130, the two southernmost shelters were the only ones open, and we opted to take the one closest to the group sites trail. E, J, and C arrived shortly and we all went down to the dock to cool off before returning to the shelter into the afternoon. We hung up wet rainflys from last night and anything else that was still damp. Later on, we returned to the dock area to hang out. By now, three boats had pulled into the cove, with a fishing boat and sailboat docked, and another larger sailboat anchored not far away. The group of boys we had seen at Siskiwit Bay on Sunday were also here now, pumping water at the dock. The docked sailboat had been playing music, and would host the other sailboaters for dinner, who came over on their dinghy. Two boys from the fishing boat took kayaks into the cove and were catching Pike right away. The remainder of the evening was spent playing cards and rationing out the last of everyone's snacks for the last hike and day ahead.

Saturday, Aug. 7
McCargoe Cove - Chippewa Harbor
Hike Time: 4:36
Distance: 10.49 miles
Avg Moving Speed: 2.8 mph

It was the coolest night yet on the island, but still nowhere near as cold in years past. The sleeping bags were at least zipped up most of the way last night, which is more than we could say for previous nights. We packed up and were on the trail just before 0800 for our last hike toward Chippewa Harbor. Our packs were as light as they would be, so we were flying and moving with ease through Chickenbone, which was as smooth as glass. The trails were not so muddy with a day in between the rain, so they were easily passable. We came up to camp at West Chickenbone and passed by a trail maintenance crew just getting ready to start their day before continuing up to and over the Greenstone Ridge. After all, many of the boardwalks we passed over throughout the day were in need of repair, with some teeter-tottering and broken planks. We would stop at Lake Richie for a longer break before hitting the final stretch to Chippewa Harbor. On the way there, we were thankful that the ridge rock was dried out, as if it was wet like we had experienced on the Minong, we would have been slowed so as not to slip here as well.

We were getting a bit worn out as we approached Chippewa but arrived at 1230. All shelters but one were occupied by a family and two groups of kayakers, with the last one, closest to the lake, open. The shelter neighbors said the boaters who stayed overnight put the picnic table inside the shelter, so our first order of business was moving that back outside. They asked if we were being picked up by the VII tomorrow, as that’s typically the only reason hikers end up here on a dead end trail, to which we confirmed. We got unpacked and went to the water to jump in. Water here was the coldest thus far. We spent the afternoon playing cards and snacking, and took the quick walk to the schoolhouse to show M, C, E and J who had not been here before. Two solo hikers were setup in tents in the individual and group sites. The cloud cover grew thicker into the afternoon, with a decent wind coming into the harbor below. A group of six kayakers would stop into the harbor for a break before heading out again. They were all on sit on top kayaks, which the other kayakers in the campground questioned in such conditions out on the open water. We chatted more with them - a pair who we rode the VII over with a week ago that had been there for a couple of days now after making it around the island and were waiting out some questionable weather tomorrow before continuing clockwise around the island. Another solo kayaker was mingling with them before he stopped over to talk to us later on and shared with us his freshly made thimbleberry jam - a real delight. He had been on the island since the first week in July and had great stories of his explorations over the years. After dinner we played cards, talked about the highlights of the trip, and went out beyond the schoolhouse on the shoreline to reach the rocks toward the opening of the harbor. We would wind down the night before preparing to head back to the mainland tomorrow.

Sunday, Aug. 8
Chippewa Harbor - Grand Portage

The group awoke, packed up our things one final time as we awaited the arrival of the VII coming from its previous stop along the south shore. The skies opened up to a light mist and drizzle of rain as we waited. We stood down by the dock and chatted more with the kayakers before the VII arrived and picked us up. The boat looked to be quite full of passengers already boarded at Rock Harbor and Daisy Farm. Seating was limited and it was very warm in the cabin, so most of us decided to head outside to the bow where it was fairly pleasant without any rain. Along the way, we would spot the sit on top kayak group of six battling the rollers west of Blueberry Cove where they stayed overnight, to which the captain shook his head at the sight of. We made the stop at Malone Bay where two hikers got off, and continued to Windigo where it seemed more people got off than got on, but E and J were still kicked off and forced to take the Sea Hunter back. We pulled into Grand Portage just before 1500, unloaded, and were quick to pay for parking and the first ones off the lot.

[JerryB]

Thanks for the report. I get to the island on the 18th (CB-W, Hatchet, Malone, Ferry and Hugginin, and windigo), so the current info is useful.

[IncaRoads]

Great trip report! I liked the route you chose.

Where exactly is the beaver takeover between Hatchet and Todd Harbor? Is it on the Minong Ridge Trail or the Hatchet Lake Trail?

[MrSniffles]

Where exactly is the beaver takeover between Hatchet and Todd Harbor? Is it on the Minong Ridge Trail or the Hatchet Lake Trail?

I may have misreported as I believe it is along the Hatchet Lake Trail before reaching the Minong junction. I was a bit of a zombie by this point on the trail, so if anyone else has been through it, please correct me if I'm wrong.

[torpified]

fantastic report, and excellent use of the Voyageur to engineer a nifty route! I'm afraid that my most pressing question concerns the pre-amble: what is (a) fish batter? Is it something you make cod fritters from?

[TopCarrot]

I too like route. A little taste of everything.

[glitch99]

Thanks for the great TR! Really helpful since I’m taking the same route all the way to MC (but then finishing down to RH) in just a few days. Curious as to what’s happening with the water at Desor. Maybe just stagnant and stale due to lack of rain? I’m planning to carry a couple extra liters from Siskiwit.

How were the bugs compared to your previous visits? Any ripe berries along the route?

[MrSniffles]

Thanks for the great TR! Really helpful since I’m taking the same route all the way to MC (but then finishing down to RH) in just a few days. Curious as to what’s happening with the water at Desor. Maybe just stagnant and stale due to lack of rain? I’m planning to carry a couple extra liters from Siskiwit.

How were the bugs compared to your previous visits? Any ripe berries along the route?

Not sure about the Desor water. It was the only inland lake water we had (dipped in at Rainbow Cove/Superior while at Feldtmann), so I wonder if it's isolated.

Bugs in general were no issue other than a few small biting flies at Siskiwit Bay and Desor. Probably the best bug experience I can remember among all trips. Thimbleberries were plentiful, raspberries were there in a few places along the way, and there was a good bunch of blueberries found on the Minong between Todd and McCargoe (right side as you head east).

Enjoy your trip! Would be interested to see a report on your own experience once you're back.