Seek feedback re P/P options south from McCargoe Cove.

[eddy_line]

Will still be our first visit to IR, 3 guys & 3 kayaks, coming from GP, drop off at McCargoe for 5.5 days on IR, paddling/portaging, mainly enjoying the adventure, with a bit of time for photography & fishing. Portages will be two 2 passes; 1 boat, 1 pack. Previous canoe experience BWCA. Originally penciled P&P south to Richie, then to Moskey and then paddle up to Rock Harbor for pickup by the Voyageur. As we learn more from your forum postings, we're considering other options. Given the high likelihood of algae bloom on Richie, we're thinking it best to minimize time/water/fishing there. Some of the glowing reports re Wood Lake, etc. encourage us to consider the option of a clockwise loop from Richie (splitting two long portages) to Chippewa Harbor, Lake Whittlesey, Wood Lake, Siskiwit Lake, Intermediate Lake, back thru Richie to Moskey Basin, then paddle to Rock Harbor.

Without the benefit of prior experience on IR, we're struggling to target reasonable daily "chunks" of paddling/portaging, trying to find a good balance between no relaxation and too much relaxation (translate as wasted time in paradise). An example is that first afternoon off the Voyageur, West Chickenbone Campground seems almost too short, but the next campground is not until Richie. Assuming a first half day short portage/paddle to W Chickenbone, would West Chickenbone to Chippewa Harbor be realistic for Full Day 1? Then to Wood Lake Campground Day 2. Spend Day 3 with options on Siskiwit and Intermediate, planning to camp at Lake Richie Canoe Campground. This would allow Days 4 and 5 for the longer Lake Richie Trail portage and the paddle from Moskey to Rock Harbor.

Is that a realistic schedule? Risky without a "weather day?" If we get caught by bad weather, can we just circle back down and meet the Voyageur at Chippewa Harbor instead of Rock Harbor? Any suggestions for other options?

[Midwest Ed]

Addressing your last point first, the Voyager II does not stop at Chippewa Harbor or any of the other possible intermediate points unless you make a reservation for the pickup.

You should be able to get an inland lake water quality report when you first arrive or even a few days before by phone (call the main office in Houghton, MI).

Strong headwinds from Moskey to Rock Harbor while unlikely could make that last day a brute.

My suggestion is to plan for the Chippewa Harbor pickup instead of the Rock Harbor return. Then do the Ritchie, Intermediate, Sisikwit, Wood, Whitlesy, Chippewa in counterclockwise fashion. This also avoids the 1.2 mile, 160 foot elevation of hilly portage from Ritchie to CH.

Drop off at MacCargoe cove. Then P&P to Chickenbone, stopping at West Chickbone if the day ends up being short. You've then got 7 other campsites to choose from that could make for a very flexible 5 days depending upon water, fishing, weather and personal preferences. Note there is a second campground on Lake Ritchie, only accessible by water. Most of the portages are short enough that you can easily change your camping locations decisions near the end of a day. When you register you must specify a route but you may alter it as the trip progresses.

I have done this route myself in the late autumn starting at Rock Harbor and ending at CH. We caught Northern in Ritchie and Whittlesey. I did not know at the time that Siskiwit Lake was good for Lake Trout. Strong winds can also make for rough seas in Siskiwit Lake. I especially like the Wood Lake campground. If you want some kayaking action in the big lake, Malone Bay and Chippewa Harbor can offer that, but make sure you are prepared and skilled.

Malone Bay is also a possible pickup location but you must schedule that ahead of time as well.

[Ingo]

Sounds like a good plan to me. Based on a trip with not in great shape, middle aged, but experienced guys, here's my take.
Day 1, Chickenbone to Chippewa: We did McCargoe to Richie and that was fine, but I wouldn't have wanted to do much more. So swapping the first portage for Richie to Chippewa should be fine.
Day 2, Chippewa to Wood: Other direction, we did this by noon.
Day 3, Wood to Richie: Again, 1/2 day at most. Getting an early start may help avoid afternoon winds on Siskiwit.
Day 4, Richie to Moskey: Personally, I wouldn't want go any farther after the portage, and Moskey is great But you could head up R.H. if you want.
Day 5, Moskey to R.H.: Hopefully you'll have prevailing SW winds and be able to sail in. But even with a NE headwind, a day should be fine, esp. in kayaks. Just a question of how easy it is (or isn't).

Lots of options and variations to play it as you go. It's unlikely that weather will be a big issue on this route, but if it is, you can make up a day by toughing out a long one.

[Keweenaw]

Hi Eddy,

Well, it looks like you're already finding out that your trip is too short! That's the nature of Isle Royale - always more to see and do.

First up, algae blooms are rare, not likely, and this summer is starting out significantly cooler than last. To reiterate what Midwest Ed said - the Voyager only stops at RH and Windigo unless someone at those intermediate points has made reservations, so you will need to nail that down in advance (at least by the time he drops you off at McC).

If it were me I would minimize time carrying the boats and spend more time in them, exploring. That's kind of the whole point of having them - to be able to see things that no hiker can. I think I would do this for a first-time trip:

Day 1 - drop off at McC and portage to West Chickenbone. This is not too short, since you will not have camp set up until mid-afternoon and that gives you a few hours to explore the lake and catch dinner.

Day 2 - Lake Ritchie Canoe Campground. You'll pass by/through 2 other lakes that you can explore on the way and LR has good fishing.

Day 3 - LR to Moskey Basin. 2.5 miles one way, but MB is a wonderful campground, especially if you snag a shelter. Lots of paddling to do in the Basin.

Day 4 - If you are leaving on the Voyageur on Day 5, then MB to RH, stopping at Rolf Peterson's research cabin, Edisen Fisheries (with side hike to the lighthouse), maybe Daisy Farm for a hike up to the Greenstone for the view.

Day 4 If you are leaving on the Voyageur the morning of Day 6, then MB to Caribou Island, stopping at Rolf Peterson's research cabin, Edisen Fisheries (with side hike to the lighthouse). After settling in at Caribou, kayak to Daisy Farm for hike to Greenstone, or around the corner to Conglomerate Bay for sightseeing and greenstoning.

Day 5 to RH, maybe fitting in that Greenstone hike, stopping at Raspberry Island to hike around the bog, etc.

Bob

[eddy_line]

Thanks for the feedback, particularly re maximizing the ratio of paddling to portaging, and encouraging us to enjoy the "wilderness" area with a pickup at Chippewa Harbor. Current plan is to spend first night at Chickenbone West, second night at Lake Richie or Intermediate, continue a leisurely pace through Siskiwit, Wood, Whittlesey, with final night at Chippewa Harbor. We'll have plenty of options for good campsites, fishing, a longer paddle west on Siskiwit, or poking our noses out the opening of Chippewa Harbor. This route will also avoid any 2 mile portages.

Just in case we had to cut things short and head directly to Rock Harbor. . . If we commit to the Chippewa Harbor pickup by the Voyageur II, could we just get on at Rock Harbor the same morning and inform the captain to cancel the extra stop?

[Ingo]

Like the plan! Stop at Ryans Island on Siskiwit so you can say you've been on the largest island on the largest lake on the largest island on the largest lake in the world!

If we commit to the Chippewa Harbor pickup by the Voyageur II, could we just get on at Rock Harbor the same morning and inform the captain to cancel the extra stop?

Shouldn't be a problem at all. Only possible issue is if they have passengers from R.H. to Chippewa (or Daisy Farm) and they are otherwise full, but I think that's pretty unlikely. Talk to them on the way out to be sure.

[eddy_line]

Well, we're tentatively set to come thru Windigo, come ashore at McCargoe Cove on July 25, portage thru the inland lakes with a loop thru Siskiwit, and be at Chippewa Harbor for pickup on July 31. Since your 2002 family adventure was a bit of inspiration for our route, it would have been nice to meet you, Ingo, but it doesn't look likely that our paths will cross.

Thanks to everyone for sharing experience and advice with newbies. We're looking forward to our relaxing paddle/portage in the quieter areas, will have to consider paddling Rock Harbor on our next visit.

[Ingo]

Hey Eddy,
My plans are to be at Windigo on the 31st. If I'm around I'll try and be at the dock for a quick "Hi" when the Voyageur stops, if only over the deck rail.
John

[eddy_line]

Many thanks to you, John, and all the other folks who answered our "newbie" questions. We've been practicing loading kayaks and portage packs, checking weights, fretting over which items are needed or just nice, and generally getting anxious to get on the island. We'll load the kayaks and gear on the pickup Saturday, enjoy a last meal with the wives that evening, drive from Cedar Rapids to Grand Portage on Sunday, overnite at the GP Lodge & Casino, head out on the Voyageur II on Monday.

I'll be watching for you on the dock when we come back thru Windigo from Chippewa Harbor on Aug 31.

FYI, we're especially looking forward to some cooler temperatures. Hope this "heat dome" doesn't move north.

Thanks to all!

[Ingo]

Yeh, I know about the fretting part--I still do it every time. The heat dome is now over us (NC) so hopefully that means it's moving south/east and not just expanding. Have a great trip!